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Chapter 17 (2012 Edition) Hairstyling.

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Presentation on theme: "Chapter 17 (2012 Edition) Hairstyling."— Presentation transcript:

1 Chapter 17 (2012 Edition) Hairstyling

2 Hairstyling or dressing the hair
~ direct relation to the fashion, art, and life of the times Ready-to-wear clothing ~ wash-and-wear hair

3 ~ home care maintenance ~ styling options for their hair
educate clients in ~ home care maintenance ~ styling options for their hair Clients will judge your work by the finished style

4 Think retro-out of style today may be back tomorrow

5 First step in the hairstyling process Take into consideration
Client Consultation First step in the hairstyling process Take into consideration ~ face shape ~ hair type ~ lifestyle

6 Be a creative problem solver
If you create a style that is flattering and easy to manage, clients will be most loyal

7 Wet Hairstyling Basics
Tools: Combs Brushes Rollers Clips Pins Clamps

8 Teaches you the technique of moving and directing the hair
Finger Waving Shaping and directing the hair into an “S” pattern through the use of fingers, combs, and waving lotion Teaches you the technique of moving and directing the hair


10 Add to side bar: Finger waves develop: Dexterity (finger)
Finger strength Coordination

11 Finger Waving Lotion Gel that makes hair pliable, keeps hair in place Made from karaya gum Found in trees in Africa and India Good lotion is harmless to the hair and does not flake when it dries

12 Pin Curls Parts of a Curl
Base-closest to the scalp Stem-between the base and the first arc ~ gives direction and movement Circle-forms a complete circle ~ size of circle determines the width of the wave and its strength


14 Mobility of a Curl Stem determines the mobility or movement No-stem curl: -placed directly on the base -produces tight, firm, long-lasting curl -minimum mobility Name the pin curls that have a no-stem curl.

15 Name the pin curl with this stem. Full-stem curl: -greatest mobility
Half-stem curl: -medium movement -half off base Name the pin curl with this stem. Full-stem curl: -greatest mobility -off the base -strong, definite direction (waves, not curl)

16 Shaping for Pin Curl Placements Open and Closed Center Curls
~ section is molded in a circular movement ***Ex. Maypoles Open and Closed Center Curls Open-smooth waves and uniform curls Closed-smaller, fine hair, fluffy curl

17 Curl and Stem Direction
Terms: Clockwise Counterclockwise

18 Base Pin Curls or Foundations
Rectangular base: -recommended on front hairline -smooth upsweep effect Name the pin curl with this base, then add to side bar. / main_Full.jpg

19 Triangular base: -use at front or facial hairline -prevents breaks and splits Arc base: -half-moon -gives good direction -used at hairline Which pin curl uses each of these bases? Add to side bar.


21 -curly styles without volume
Square base: -curly styles without volume List the two pin curls that have this base. Add to side bar. Add to side bar: Pin at the base through ½ of the circle Incorrect-pinning through whole circle

22 Carved or Sculptured Curls
Pin Curl Techniques Ribboning-forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to create tension ***smoothes the strand/more even results Carved or Sculptured Curls Formed without lifting the hair ***used to finish the hairline in fingerwaves

23 Designing with Pin Curls Creating Volume with Pin Curls
Barrel Curls -large center openings -rectangular base -similar to roller/not as much tension ***will not last as long as rollers Creating Volume with Pin Curls Cascade or Stand-Up Curls -create height


25 Roller Curls Advantages over pin curls: Much faster Wrapped with tension/stronger, longer-lasting set Variety of sizes Broadens creative possibilities

26 Parts of a Roller Curl Base (section) -same length and width as the roller Stem -first turn -direction and mobility Curl or Circle -determines size of wave or curl Fig Fig

27 Determine the good and bad qualities of these two roller sets. jpg /ponyset2-vi.jpg

28 Choosing Your Roller Size
One complete turn creates a C-shaped curl One-and-a-half turns create a wave Two-and-a-half turns create curls

29 Roller Placement On base-full volume -sits directly on its base -over-direct (135 degree angle) Half base-medium volume -sits halfway on its base and halfway behind the base -hold strand straight up (90 degree angle)

30 Off base-least volume - sits completely off base * under-direct - 45degrees down from base Roller Direction Placement of rollers follows the movement of the finished style ***how you set is how you comb out

31 Less strong of curl than wet set (rollers) Stronger and longer-lasting
Hot Rollers Used on dry hair Stay in for minutes Less strong of curl than wet set (rollers) Stronger and longer-lasting than curling iron


33 Velcro Rollers Add to side bar: Not legal in Pa beauty schools Salons must remove hair and disinfect between each client Used on dry hair Wet hair will snag and pull the hair Leave in for 5-10 minutes


35 Fabric grips hair and stays in place
Mist hair with hairspray Can place client under hooded dryer for minutes ***Review page 96 for disinfection procedure

36 Good set leads to good comb out
Comb-out Techniques Good set leads to good comb out If you follow well-structured system of combing out hairstyles, you will save time and get more even results (on test-organized order) *** after the tease ~ start at bottom ~ place hair as you go up to the crown ~ bring in the sides ~ top is last

37 Back-combing and Back-brushing Techniques
-called teasing, ratting, matting, or French lacing -mats hair at the scalp -forms a cushion

38 -after hot rollers or blow-drying ***read techniques list
Back-brushing -called ruffing -soft cushion Both: -used for up-dos -adds a little height -after hot rollers or blow-drying ***read techniques list

39 Used to keep curly hair smooth and straight
Hair Wrapping Used to keep curly hair smooth and straight Very little volume-hair at scalp is not lifted Done on wet or dry hair summary-hair-care... Read “Here’s a Tip” and “Caution”

40 Blow-dry Styling Technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operation Women desire hairstyles that require the least time and effort to maintain Guide and educate the client through this process The client’s first impression of the haircut you have done will be determined by the quality of the blow-dry

41 t...

42 Add to side bar: Warm air “molds” the hair (into the desired shape) Cool air “sets” and removes frizz (smoothes and looks like a curling was used) Demonstration on mannequin

43 Tools for Blow-dry Styling
Blow-dryer-an electrical appliance designed for drying and styling the hair Concentrator-is a directional feature -creates a stream of air Diffuser-air flows more softly -keeps textural definition om...

44 Not on test: good to know-clients will ask.
***Ionic blow dryers and curling irons infuse the hair with beneficial negative ions that seal the hair cuticle, eliminate frizz, and create shiny, silky, healthy hair. ***Ionic blow dryers dry hair quicker than regular blow dryers by breaking up the water in the hair into smaller particles which can evaporate faster.

45 Keep blow-dryer perfectly clean and free of dirt, oil, and hair
Air intake at back of blow-dryer must be clear at all times If intake is covered, dryer element will burn out prematurely

46 Teeth closely spaced remove definition from curl
Combs and Picks Teeth closely spaced remove definition from curl Creates a smooth surface Widely spread teeth give a more textured surface Comb with pick on the one end lift the hair away from the head

47 Half-round, rubber based Seven or nine rows Nylon bristles
Brushes Classic styling brush Half-round, rubber based Seven or nine rows Nylon bristles Heat-resistant/antistatic Little volume Less suitable for smooth classic looks https:/.../admin/images/productimages/j1699.jpg

48 For mid-to longer-length hair Keeps hair from snagging
Paddle brush Large, flat base For mid-to longer-length hair Keeps hair from snagging

49 Mixture of boar and nylon bristles
Grooming brushes Mixture of boar and nylon bristles Boar bristles-distribute the scalp oils/gives shine Nylon bristles-stimulate circulation of blood to the scalp Adds polish and shine to fine to medium hair Great for combing out updos

50 Speeds up blow-dry process Ideal for fine hair
Vent brushes Speeds up blow-dry process Ideal for fine hair And adding lift at the scalp                                   

51 Metal cylinder bases-heat transferred creates a stronger curl
Round brushes Various diameters Metal cylinder bases-heat transferred creates a stronger curl Cooling button “sets” the hair in the new shape

52 Thin nylon styling brush Good for back-combing
Teasing brush Thin nylon styling brush Good for back-combing Use the sides of the bristles to smooth into the desired style Sectioning Clips Keep whatever wet hair you are not working with sectioned off Do not allow wet hair to sit over dry hair

53 Greatly enhances style
Styling Products “liquid tools” Gives style more hold Adds shine and curl Takes away curl Greatly enhances style

54 Know, to determine correct product for client:
How long the style needs to hold What environmental conditions-dryness, humidity, wind, sun Type of hair Heavier products work by causing strands of hair to cling together, adding more pronounced definition Can weigh the hair down, especially fine hair Range from light to very firm hold

55 Types of Styling Products
Foam or mousse light, airy, whipped styling product Good for fine hair Does not weigh hair down Excellent for drier, more porous hair

56 Thickened styling preparation
Gel Thickened styling preparation Strongest control for slicked or molded styles Gives distinct texture when spread with fingers Creates long-lasting body Firm-hold gel may overwhelm fine hair

57 Liquid gels or texturizers Lighter more viscous (liquid)
Good for all hair types Offer firmer, longer hold for fine hair with least amount of heaviness Gives a lighter, more moderate hold for normal or coarse hair

58 Upselling As you style the client’s hair, talk about the products you are using to achieve the desired look, and why Have client hold product while you demonstrate the uses and benefits of each product…

59 Straightening gel Creates a smooth, straight look Counters frizz Temporary Becomes undone in extremely humid conditions

60 Sprayed at the base of fine, wet hair Adds volume
Volumizers Sprayed at the base of fine, wet hair Adds volume Add a light gel or mousse to the rest of the hair for more hold Avoid the base (with the gel)

61 Adds considerable weight Used on dry hair Very easy to mold
Pomade or wax Adds considerable weight Used on dry hair Very easy to mold Greater manageability Use sparingly on fine hair Excellent on short hair * Demonstrate use

62 While creating textural definition
Silicone Adds gloss and sheen While creating textural definition Non-oily silicone products/all hair types Provides protection while blow-drying Or at the very end for shine Spray shines/no weight Aquage “Beyond Shine”

63 Hair spray or finishing spray
Form of a mist to hold style in Most widely used product Finishing spray used when style is complete and will not be disturbed ***Build-up removal treatments work well to cleanse the hair from all products ***Baking soda removes hair spray build up in one minute

64 Page 466 Direct the stream of air from the blow-dryer over the curl in a back-and-forth motion Service Tip-page 466 Never hold the blow-dryer too long in one place Always direct the hot air away from the client’s scalp to prevent scalp burns Direct it from the scalp towards the ends

65 Hot air flows in the direction in which the hair is
Hot air flows in the direction in which the hair is wound/improper technique will rough up the hair, making if frizzy Add to the side bar on Page 468: Start drying at the bottom in nape area Drying order: Scalp Hair shaft Ends

66 a. Marcel Grateau Thermal Hairstyling
Q. Who invented marcel waving in 1875? Add this to side bar Thermal waving/marcel waving and thermal curling are methods of waving and curling straight or pressed hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques on dry hair a. Marcel Grateau

67 Electrical or stove-heated Manipulative techniques/same for both irons
Thermal Irons Irons made of quality steel Even heat controlled by stylist Non-electrical favored by stylists catering to clients with excessive curly hair Larger range of barrel or rod size Higher heat capabilities


69 Barrel or rod and Shell (spoon) Flat Irons Straight edges
Two parts to know: Barrel or rod and Shell (spoon) Flat Irons Straight edges Creates smooth, straight styles Beveled edge-bends the ends Improving-constant even heat even on high settings Ergonomic grips/lightweight

70 Testing Thermal Irons After heating, test on tissue paper Hold for 5 seconds If scorches, iron is too hot Let cool before placing in hair Overly hot will scorch hair off/discolor white hair Fine, lightened, or damaged=less heat

71 Care of Thermal Irons Remove dirt, oils, and product residue Dampen towel with soapy solution and a few drops of ammonia (or prepared cleaners) Wipe barrel Non-electrical irons, immerse in solution Do not clean while turned on or still cooling

72 Comb Used With Thermal Irons Manipulating Thermal Irons
Use hard rubber or other nonflammable substance Have fine teeth to firmly hold the hair Manipulating Thermal Irons Hold iron in a comfortable position that gives you complete control

73 Temperature Setting depends on texture of the hair Fine hair, lightened or tinted, or white hair use gentle heat (warm not hot) Coarse and gray hair-use more heat (hotter)

74 Thermal Curling with Electric Thermal Irons
Straight hair-permits quick styling Pressed hair-permits styling without danger of returning to its former extremely curly condition Wigs and hairpieces-presents a quick and effective method of styling

75 Curling Iron Manipulations
Method of holding the iron is a matter of personal preference Choose one-greatest ease, comfort, and control of movement Practice opening and closing at regular intervals Practice releasing the hair with quick, clicking movements

76 3. Practice guiding the strand to the center of the curl
4. Use the comb to protect the client’s scalp from burns Other Types of Curls Spiral curl-curling the hair while winding the strand around the rod End curls-for short hair


78 Volume Thermal Curls Used to create volume or lift Volume-based thermal curls-maximum lift or volume -curl is very high on base (135 degree angle) Add: over-directed

79 Full-Based Thermal Curls
Full volume -125 degree (over-directed) Half-based -moderate lift or volume -90 degree angle Off-based -slight lift or volume degrees Finished set-clip each curl in place until ready for styling

80 Safety Measures (3 needed for test)
Use only after instructions Keep irons clean Do not overheat irons Test temperature on tissue paper Avoid burning yourself or client Place in a safe place to cool Heating conventional irons do not put handle too close to the heater

81 Be sure iron is properly balanced in heater
Use hard rubber or non flammable combs Celluloid combs must not be used- flammable Do not use metal combs/too hot/burn scalp Place comb between scalp and iron/prevent burns Hair must be cleaned and completely dry Do not allow ends to protrude over iron/fishhooks Lightened, tinted, or relaxed hair-use gentle heat

82 Thermal Hair Straightening (Pressing)
Temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair with a heated comb Three types: On test!!!! Soft -removes up to 50-60% of curl -once on each side Add -no pressure

83 -removes up to 60-75% of curl -once on each side -with some pressure
Medium press -removes up to 60-75% of curl -once on each side -with some pressure Hard press -removes 100% of curl -twice on each side Add -with pressure Also called double press

84 Read: Caution box /uploads/20...

85 Analysis of Hair and Scalp
Before press, analyze condition of hair and scalp If not healthy-give appropriate corrective treatments If scalp skin disease-advise client to see a dermatologist If hair shows signs of neglect-recommend a series of conditioning treatments

86 Failure to correct dry and brittle hair-results in
Failure to correct dry and brittle hair-results in breakage during hair pressing Burned hair strands cannot be conditioned Check hair for elasticity and porosity Good elasticity-stretches about 50% (when wet) of original length before breaking

87 Texture (coarse, medium, fine) Feel (wiry, soft, or silky) Elasticity
Analysis covers: Wave pattern Length Texture (coarse, medium, fine) Feel (wiry, soft, or silky) Elasticity Color Condition Condition of scalp Read lists

88 Hair Texture Coarse, extremely curly hair has qualities that make it difficult to press Coarse-greater in diameter Requires more heat and pressure Medium curly-no special problems -least resistant to hair pressing

89 Fine hair requires special care
-less heat and pressure Wiry, curly hair may be coarse, medium, or fine, and feels stiff, hard and glassy -very resistant to pressing -use more heat and pressure

90 Scalp Condition Classified as normal, tight, or flexible Normal-proceed with analysis If scalp is tight and hair coarse-press the hair in the direction it grows Flexible scalp-difficulty-may not be able to press the hair satisfactorily

91 Record Keeping Keep a record of the hair and scalp analysis Include all pressing treatments Question client about lightener, tint, gradual color (metallic), or other chemical treatments Release statement (may not hold up in Pennsylvania)

92 Conditioning Treatments
Involve special cosmetic preparations for the hair and scalp, thorough brushing, and scalp massage Usually results in better hair pressing Pressing Combs Two types-regular and electric Constructed of good quality stainless steel or brass Handle is made of wood/does not absorb heat https:/.../KENTUCKY%20MAID%20SPKM%2032W%20A.jpg                                        

93 To temper a new pressing comb-
-heat the comb until extremely hot -coat the comb in petroleum or pressing oil -let cool down naturally -run under hot water to remove the oil

94 Heating the Comb After heating the comb, test it on a piece of light tissue paper (end wraps or sanex strip) If paper scorches, allow comb to cool slightly before applying it to the hair

95 Cleaning the Comb Will perform more efficiently if kept clean Clean of loose hair, grease, and dust before and after each use Intense heat keeps the comb sterile To remove carbon-rub the outside surface and between teeth with a fine steel wool pad or fine sandpaper Place metal portion in hot baking soda solution for 1 hour; rinse and dry

96 Pressing Oil or Cream First apply pressing oil to hair
Products have these effects: Makes hair softer Prepare and condition the hair for pressing Helps prevent the hair from burning or scorching Helps prevent hair breakage Condition the hair after pressing Add sheen to pressed hair Helps hair stay pressed longer

97 Reminders and Hints for All Pressing
(need 3 for test) Good judgment=avoid damage Client’s safety is ensured only when stylist observes every precaution Avoid excessive heat or pressure Avoid too much pressing oil Avoid perfumed pressing oil-allergic Avoid over frequently hair pressing Keep comb clean at all times

98 Avoid overheating Test temperature on paper before applying to hair Adjust temperature to the texture and condition of the hair Use comb carefully to avoid burning the scalp, skin, and hair Prevent smoking and burning by drying the hair completely Avoid excessive application of pressing oil

99 Use moderately warm comb to press short hair
Use moderately warm comb to press short hair at temples and back of neck Hard Press Only recommended when the results of a soft press are not satisfactory Touch-ups Process is the same-with shampoo omitted

100 Caution Box Two types of injuries: Immediate -burned hair that breaks off -burned scalp causing temporary or permanent loss of hair -burns on ears and neck that form scars

101 2. Not immediately evident
-skin rash if allergic to pressing oil -breaking or shortening of the hair due to many frequent hair pressings

102 Special Considerations
Pressing fine hair -less pressure Add -less heat Pressing short, fine hair -extra care at hairline -extra short. Comb should not be too hot -comb causes accidental burns/painful/scars

103 Immediately apply 1percent gentian violet jelly to the burn
Pressing coarse hair -apply enough pressure so hair stays straightened Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair -might require conditioning treatments -gray hair can be particularly resistant -moderately heated comb, light pressure -avoid excessive heat/discoloration/breakage

104 Updo-hairstyle with the hair arranged up and off the shoulders
Styling Long Hair Updo-hairstyle with the hair arranged up and off the shoulders Secured with implements like hairpins, bobby pins, and elastics Special occasions


Hot-fashions-hairstyles.blogs… /07_2...

107 Knot or Chignon -true classic/popular for centuries -created from simple ponytail -dressed up with flowers or ornaments,or kept simple -very straight and silky hair-set on hot rollers -wavy or curly, blow-dry straight -extremely curly-press first or leave for a textured-looking chignon


109 Basic French twist (not in textbook)
-elegant, sleek look can go anywhere -straight, fine hair set first ***All hair is in the twist ***Level 1’s set on wet set rollers first, then comb- out ***review pinning on page 501

110 _c4d26... _

111 Pleat or Classic French twist
-for weddings and black-tie events -shape is larger -front is designed/more creative than basic twist -inspect shape from every angle/well balanced and well proportioned ***Level 2’s set hot rollers, then comb-out, designing the front and sides ***Level 3’s no set required/ design the front/sides


113 Client Consultation Make sure you understand what the client has in mind Pre-bridal, come in with hairpiece to try several styles Take photographs to help decide which she likes best Keep the photo to duplicate style on her big day

114 Artistry of Hairstyling
Master basic styles Create your own unique and attractive looks Styling trends change quickly Have a mannequin at home---Practice Create looks in magazines-try new ideas and techniques Every client presents creative possibilities

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