Presentation on theme: "Silver Saints Specialist Task Guide Saniflo Servicing Tools Needed : Rothenberger pump with toilet and 21.5mm connections Flat head screwdriver Needle."— Presentation transcript:
Silver Saints Specialist Task Guide Saniflo Servicing Tools Needed : Rothenberger pump with toilet and 21.5mm connections Flat head screwdriver Needle nose pliers Multi-meter Siphon hand pump Electrical screwdriver Symptoms of fault and possible causes : 1. Making a strange noise : i.Blocked waste pipe ii.Jammed blades or impeller iii.Seized/burnt out motor 2. Completely Dead : i.No power supply due to faulty switch/fuse ii.Blown capacitor iii.Faulty flow switch/ diaphragm 3. Wont turn off : i.Jammed float switch/diaphragm ii.Faulty or no non-return valve in waste plumbing
Procedure to follow: 1. Making a strange noise: 1 st. Check for a blockage Turn the power to the unit off at the spur socket. Determine whether the 22mm waste pipe carry waste water away from the unit is blocked. To do this you will need to have a bucket and a few rags at hand for catching any waste water that may still be in the system at pressure which will escape as you undo the waste pipe connection with the saniflo unit. You will also need a spare bit of washing machine hose or the 22mm adaptor and rothenberger pump in order to carry out a pressure test on the waste pipe to determine whether or not it has a blockage. The procedure for testing for a blocked waste pipe is as follows: Turn off the unit’s power. Disconnect the white flexible exit pipe from the 22mm waste pipe. Attach the Rothenberger pump to the 22mm waste pipe and try to force air down the pipe. Alternatively attach a washing machine waste pipe to the 22mm waste pipe and blow down the clean end of the washing machine pipe. If air moves freely down the waste pipe then it is not blocked and you can now turn your attention to trouble shooting the unit itself. If you find that there is a blockage in the waste pipe please see the section below ‘You find a blockage in the 21.5mm waste pipe’:
2 nd. Checking for jammed blades of impeller: Once you have confirmed the unit is getting power and that the 22mm waste pipe is not blocked you can turn your attention to investigating the unit itself. Isolate the power to the unit. Remove any boxing in order to gain access to the unit. Remove the unit or the toilet pan itself if needed to get access. To the saniflo unit Remove the lid of the saniflo. Take the cap off the waste basket and clear out the waste basket. Use a screwdriver to make sure the blades turn freely. If not, free up anything that is wrapped around the blades or the impeller. Once you have freed up anything that has wrapped around the blades make sure that there is nothing still stuck in the toilet pan spigot. 3 rd. Seized or burnt out motor Once you have confirmed that there is no blockage in the waste pipe and the blades are free to move within the unit then you can be confident that the unit’s motor has burnt out if it is still failing to turn over or pump. Replace unit.
1 st. Check the switch/fuse Using a multi-meter check that there is a 240 volt supply coming from the switch to the unit. 2 nd. Faulty float switch or diaphragm Isolate the power to the unit. Remove any boxing in order to gain access to the unit. Remove the unit or the toilet pan itself if needed to get access. Remove the lid of the saniflo. Using a gloved hand activate the float switch by pressing upwards on the diaphragm. You should here a clicking noise as the float switch turns on and off. If you don’t hear a noise the float switch or diaphragm may be faulty. Replace the unit. 3 rd. Faulty Capacitor/other internal electrics If you have checked the unit is getting power and the float switch is operating as it should be then there is another internal electrical fault. Replace the unit. 2. Unit is completely dead:
3. Unit wont turn off: 1 st. Check the float switch/diaphragm Lime scale caked on the rubber diaphragm which operates the float switch can cause the float switch to become stuck in the on position as the diaphragm does not spring back to the natural position once the unit it empty of water. If left to run continuously for too long could result in the motor burning out as it is the water in the unit that cools the motor. Isolate the power to the unit. Remove any boxing in order to gain access to the unit. Remove the unit or the toilet pan itself if needed to get access. Remove the lid of the saniflo. Using a gloved hand activate the float switch by pressing upwards on the diaphragm. You should here a clicking noise as the float switch turns on and off. If you don’t hear a noise the float switch or diaphragm may be faulty. Depending on the age of the unit (is it under two years old) you can choose to replace the rubber diaphragm or replace the whole unit. 2 nd Missing or faulty non-return valve A non-return valve should be fitted to the waste pipe when there is a high vertical section of pipe work that the unit needs to move water. The non-return valve prevents waste water from falling back into the unit due to gravity after it has been pumped away. Check for jams in the non-return valves. Fit a new non-return valve within the vertical section of waste pipe as close to the unit as possible.
4. You find a blockage in the 21.5mm waste pipe: If air does not move freely down the waste pipe then you can be confident that there is a blockage. Clearing the blockage will probably require multiple strategies and attempts. Closer inspection of the layout of the waste pipe run may give you more clues to why the blockage has occurred, what the best strategy to clearing it will be and what work will need to be done in order to prevent future blockages. There are certain rules that saniflo installations must follow in order for them to work efficiently. Most of these relate to the waste pipe layout and failure to follow these rules will often result in blocked pipes. 1. The entire vertical rise must happen within the 1st metre of the unit. 2. No right angled bends should be used in the waste pipe layout. All bends should be 'sweeping' which are usually made up by joining two forty five degree bends together with a short piece of pipe. 3. All horizontal pipe runs should have a minimum of 1/500 downward slope. Identifying any infractions in these rules will give you a good clue to where and why the blockage is. Clearing the blockage: As the saniflo pumps up to about 1 bar of pressure it is unlikely that pressure from the rothenger pump will force the blockage free. The simplest strategy to follow is to try and suck the blockage back down the pipe using the rothenberger or a wet vac. If this does not work the next step is to start dismantaling the pipe work starting at the most assessable 'trouble points' you can identify. This may involve lifting floorboards or cutting into boxing/walls. Use the wet vac and thin drain auger to clear straight runs of pipe between bends. Once the blockage has being cleared the pipe work should be corrected to meet Saniflo's layout rules. One thing to remember it that the unit itself may have a burnt out motor due to pumping against the blockage for an extended period of time. So even though you have cleared the blockage the unit may also need replacing.
Things to be aware of: A Saniflo unit should be protected by a 5amp fuse and the socket not a 13amp fuse. The 5amp fuse should blow before the motor burns out a 13amp fuse does not offer protection against the motor overheating. The most common causes of a faulty saniflo faults are: People flushing things down they should not: tampons, make up wipes, cleaning wipes. Incorrect installation of waste pipes resulting in blockages Limescale attacking the diaphram on the float switch. Saniflo units should be maintained by the user. A strong bleach solution in a 5 litre bucket should be left to sit in the unit, by turning it off at the wall, for 30 minutes and then flushed through at least once a month to avoid limescale build up and smells.