OBJECTIVES: zIntroduce an alternative method to predict the impact of personal care products on the human skin. xPast methods. xNew method. xDifferent product results. xImpact of ingredients. xEnd user responses.
DEFINITION - DRY SKIN zRough, uneven, scaly, ashen. zBrittle, cracked, maybe red. zMay occur from removal of skin oils by various cleansers, solvents, or contact with materials like cement, lime. zDry, and/or cold weather. zMechanical abrasion, friction.
DRY SKIN IMPACT zMost employees do not want “ugly looking” hands. zIntact skin is a primary barrier against infection, or entry of foreign materials. zDry skin can lead to more serious forms of contact dermatitis.
ASSESSING THE IMPACT zAdd ingredients from CTFA list. zKligman Leg Regression - 70s. zGrove Modified Leg Regression - 90s. zVolar Forearm, Hands, Face. zIn use test. yControl. yCost.
MEASURING THE IMPACT zExpert Grader Scoring. yErythema (redness), Dryness. zBioengineering Instrument Measurements. yTEWL, Acoustical, Laser Doppler, Others. ySkiCon, Corneometer, Nova DPM, Dermalab. xMeasures electrical properties in the skin. zWhen to take the reading? yImmediately, one hour, next day, next week. zWhat are we measuring? yShort term effects or longer term skin health.
SIMULATED IN USE TEST zPremise: Employee’s skin (usually meaning hands) condition should be normal or improving towards normal as they arrive at work each day. yFollows a normal daily life cycle. yEliminates short term cover-ups (emollients). yPermits normal skin recovery cycle. yEstimates longer term skin health.
METHOD AND PROTOCOL zModified Exaggerated Use Test. yDeveloped for testing consumer soap mildness. yUses volar forearm - more uniform skin base. yProduct is applied “according to directions.” y“Exaggerated use” to create a quick impact. y4 days of measurement and product use, 5th day for measurement only. yExpert grader and bioengineering measurements beginning and end. zCompare daily baseline readings - 5 days
PROTOCOL - CONTINUED zMark sites on each volar forearm. zBaseline readings taken over 5 days. zProduct used for 4 days. zControlled usage of products - defined application. zConducted in a controlled environment.
Alcohol Based Gel zStop soap or lotion use 24 hours before. zAcclimate for 20 - 30 minutes. zSkiCon readings (5) taken on each site. zProduct applied 10 times at 10 minute intervals. zSkiCon readings taken at 10, 30, and 60 min after 10th application and next morning.
Revised Application Procedure zProduct use procedure. yApply product 3 times at 15 minute intervals. yAfter 15 minutes, wash site with soap, rinse, and dry. yRepeat this cycle 2 more times. yFinal product application. zMeasurements taken at 30 minutes and next day.
National Use Test zMoisturizing and Non-Moisturizing as defined by lab testing. z120 nurses nationally. zEach product was used for two weeks by all nurses. zBlinded product - no identification.
National Use Test Results zMoisturizing product preferred 2 to 1 over Non-Moisturizing one zAttributes that created preference (3 of top 5): yLeaves hands feeling healthy yMoisturizes skin ySimilar to hand lotion zUse test confirms lab prediction.
OTHER WORK - GLYCERIN z1986 - Batt et al (Beecham) - Skin effects of glycerin persisted for 24hr forming a reservoir in the skin. z1997 - Okamoto et al (Shiseido) - Demonstrated that glycerin is accumulated in the stratum corneum while dipropylene glycol is not.
CONCLUSION zSimulated use testing provides a good prediction of actual performance. zDaily baseline readings are more reflective of performance and stable than short term measurements. zLong term skin health can be characterized in the lab to guide product development.