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Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established.

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Presentation on theme: "Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established."— Presentation transcript:

1 Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

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4 NeoClassicism/Directoire Departures from typical fashion evolution… Women-waistlines rise, slender silhouette Men-waistline rises, wide lapels (Incroyable, frock) Changing male ideals-plain, dark, unadorned, suits Tailoring important 1818, tape measure/Brooks Bros. Beau Brummel, male fashion icon, minimalist style sideburns-first fashionable facial hair in over century

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6 Industrial Revolution Men Cutaway becomes tailcoat, only evening Sack coat (closest to modern) Decorative waistcoat disappearing Stripes, checks, patterns; some dandies accessorize Power weaving, cylinder printing-cheaper fabrics By 1860, fashion journalism global…

7 Romantic ( women) Neoclassical-beginning of consistent historic revival (Pompeii, classical Greek) “Stays” reduced temporarily, patterned cottons day, dark/heavy evening 1820s, back to natural waist, volume increases, X silhouette, horizontal emphasis Corsets, cutting, shaping, applied decoration 1830s wide off-shoulder, printed fabrics, bum rolls, petticoats

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9 Industrial Revol women Sleeve volume reduced, Vertical emphasis- V waist, bell/pagoda sleeve More exotics imitated, Kashmir shawls Voluminous skirt “crinoline,” horsehair Technology-cage crinoline, fabric over steel REFORM dress; health, rights (Bloomer)

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11 Ready-Made Clothing (still ) Slops/soldiers (since 1660s)-1st RTW Industrialization/banking office clerks, not bespoke, consistent business dress (telegraph, typewriter) 1839 Daguerre, photography, truthful visual 1840s London-Savile Row tailoring (Poole, military tailor) 1846 Howe, sewing machine (5+yrs Singer) 1850s, wood pulp paper, printing 1856, first synthetic dye (1860s common) 1857 Charles Frederick WORTH, Empress Eugenie, birth of haute couture

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13 Victorian/Edwardian Queen Victoria/ Edward Visual info, mass production, dept stores, mail order… MEN, standard sizing (Civil War data), menswear suited to mass production Detachable collar/cuffs, necktie, straight silhouette 3 pc. sack suit, “tuxedo park” tuxedo/evening Hats-bowler/derby, fedora, boater; fewer beards Sports important-Norfolk jacket; bathing costume

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16 Late Victorian Women-rapid change, difficult to mass produce Sewing girls Home sewing machine-masses of décor Imports-plaids/tartans, paisley, Zouave jkts Corset-hourglass; drawers to ankles/chemise Day-modest, evening-low neck/short slv, extended/wide shoulder-line, wide elliptical hoops/cages Fair complexion-parasols, gloves, fans

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18 contd. Worth-merchandising/showroom/dictated 1868 Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne-regulated/business 1870 BUSTLE, longer corset/bodice (not round hoop, back emphasis) Princess line (Princess Metternich, Worth client)-vert seams, no waistline

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20 1880s-developments Emmigration-garment manufacturing… Sweating-long hrs, poor conditions 1900 ILGWU (triangle shirtwaist factory-labor laws/unions) Dept. stores (Bon marche)-leisure activity Patterns printed in Harper’s

21 Movements Aesthetic dress vege dyes, Oscar Wilde, Liberty London Rational dress, health movement (loose) Gay Nineties-la Belle Epoque Lessening morality from Victorian 1899 Veblen “Theory of Leisure Class” Women in wkforce Telephone, typewriter, nursing 2pc. Suit, shirtwaist blouse

22 1880s-1890s women’s fashion 1885 shelf-like projection of skirts Dolman cape, Ulster coat (half-belt) BLACK hide dirt, adapt for mourning Victoria Actresses-fashion leaders (photography) 1895 leg-o-mutton sleeve, trumpet skirt

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24 Art Nouveau/Edwardian Cycling-trousers for women Art Nouveau-curvilinear S-curve silhouette Paris exhibition (couturiers) Monobosom, hip thrust, bishop/leg-o-mutton, softer/light Gibson Girl Pompadours, wide hats, plumage (Audubon society) Paul Poiret-freed women 1 st modern couturier, 1909 empire waist Automobiles-duster/motorcoat (and shorter styles)

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26 1910 Corsets


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