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{ History of Costume Dark Ages – Restoration Period 500 A.D. - 1715.

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Presentation on theme: "{ History of Costume Dark Ages – Restoration Period 500 A.D. - 1715."— Presentation transcript:

1 { History of Costume Dark Ages – Restoration Period 500 A.D

2 The Dark Ages  Saxon and Frankish Era A.D.  A continuation of the tunic  Belted at the waist or hip  Men begin to wear trouser like garments  Leggings  Cloaks – fur lined & some wool  Fastened with brooches Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from: saxon-frankish-anglo.htm

3 The Dark Ages  The Anglo – Saxon Era 700 – 999  Similar to the Saxon & Frankish Era  Hoods were added to cloaks in the 9 th century  The wrap over coat and waist coat appeared  Began to see class distinction through dress  Nobility had embellishments on the collar, waist or border of their tunics  Nobility wore longer tunics  Working class & Peasants wore plain shorter tunics  THINK MOVIE: King Arthur

4 The Dark Ages Anglo-Saxon King & Queen Anglo-Saxon Lady & Women Anglo-Saxon Warrior & Man Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from: saxon-frankish-anglo.htm

5 The Dark Ages  The Anglo – Saxon Era  Men  Continued to wear tunics but shorter  Piercings became popular  Coifs – flat, round caps  Long stockings with feet & short boots  Women  Long woolen gown – sometimes 2 layers  Inner gown tight sleeves; outer gown loose sleeves  Wore cloak or mantle over outer gown  Began to wear head covering unless very young

6 Medieval/Middle Ages   Early Period:   simple shaped fitted tunic for men   Long, wide gown with decorative embroidery for women  The Bliaut was a dress worn by woman or men in this time period.  Hose took the place of trousers  THINK MOVIE: Robin Hood

7 Medieval/Middle Ages   After 1200   Men   Tight short clothes with long pointed shoes   The longer the point the higher the status

8 Medieval/Middle Ages   After 1200   Women   Began to use tight lacing on women's to create a form fitting shape   girdled at the hips   created a long - waisted appearance   Long, trailing gowns  Hennin, worn ,was a cone-like hat resembling the spires of the cathedral spire.  THINK MOVIE: BraveHeart

9 Late Medieval Ages   Fashion in this era was greatly influenced by the high class society and the European Kings and Queens.  The Surcoat was a popular fashion accessory for the men of this era.  Peasants had a lot of different clothing styles because each particular style identified the woman with her hometown.

10 Renaissance:  Shapes becoming rounder  Accentuate Physique  Drawers & Padding for men  Codpiece for men  a decorative triangular piece of fabric attached at the groin.  Men wore blouses with exposed chest  Pregnancy Pillows for Women  the maternal look was fashionable.  Looser, sexier clothing  THINK: Romeo & Juliet.

11 Renaissance:

12 Renaissance: Elizabethan Era  Tighter, stiff, more rigid clothing  Heavy and Luxurious Fabrics  Slashing - cut in the outer surfaces of garments  doublets, sleeves and gowns  exposed the contrasting color of the linings beneath  Ruff worn by both men & women  large stiff collar worn at this time.

13 Renaissance: Elizabethan Era  Farthingale for Women  stiff metal cone-shaped article worn under skirts  Corset  V-Waist  Accessories  Pearls, heeled shoes  Tights for men  THINK: Shakespeare in Love

14

15 Elizabethan Era

16 Cavalier France Begins to influence Fashion  Fashion which said “I don’t have to work for a living.”  Sensual & Soft look, less stiffness  Waistlines began to rise  Ruffs were replaced by lace or linen collars  Sleeves began to become fuller  Men began wearing breeches instead of hose  Accessories  Turned down boots  Tall broad hats  Ribbons & bows

17   Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight sleeves   Sleeveless leather jerkins were worn by soldiers   Think “Three Musketeers”

18 Restoration Women’s Fashion  Full, loose sleeves that end at elbow  Tightly corseted  Mantua   Hung from the shoulders to the floor   worn for 'undress' wear  The overskirt was looped back and held by ribbon bows. and held by ribbon bows.  Train length determined by social status  Hair worn in tight curls  Got bigger and higher as the period went on oration.htm

19 Restoration Men’s Fashion  Breeches became very baggy  Coat and Waist coat  Ruffled long sleeved shirt  Cravats worn over the neck  Periwig  Wig worn by men throughout the period the period ources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

20 Restoration ources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

21 Historical Costume and the Movies Assignment Directions: 1. Go to and open the document I sent you. 2. Find 12 pictures from 12 different movies that represents 12 different time periods. 3. Paste the picture in the box provided, then fill in the information in the corresponding box. 4. Save your document, then it to me when you are complete. 5. You will be getting more notes Friday and will have time to finish. Movie Title: 300 Time Period: Greek B.C. Evidence of Time Period: Greek Chiton dress with belts holding in place Historically Accurate: No, Chiton would cover whole torso front and back. You can tell double sided tape was used to hold dress in place. Website: en-gorgo-photo-gallery- c html

22 Georgian Men’s Fashion  Flat Front Breeches—breeches with a buttoned front flap.  The Justaucorps for men was the forerunner of today’s suit coat.  The Spencer was a short jacket without tails.  Queue—A long pigtail or ponytail that men would wear on the back of the neck with their own hair or with their wig. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/georgian.htm

23 Georgian Thomas, P.W. (2008) King George III Daily & Occupational Dress of Men. Retrieved from : iii-mens-clothes.htm

24 Georgian Women’s Fashion  Panniers—baskets made of reed or whale bone held together with ribbon used to hold out the skirt  The hoop was first funnel- shaped, but from 1730s to 1740s grew very broad at the sides and flat front and back. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/georgian.htm

25 Georgian Women’s Fashion  Watteau Gown— a loose sack or dress, worn over a tight bodice and very full underskirt.  The loose folds falling from the shoulders in back became part of the skirt.  The front of the gown varied in design, either hanging loose or fitted at the waist, worn closed or open, and, if open, revealing a bodice and underskirt.  The elbow-length sleeves had vertical pleats and soft, wide cuffs. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/georgian.htm

26 Georgian Women’s Fashion  Pompadour—large hair-do associated with the French court and often had birds or toys placed in it.  Shepherdess Hat—A hat worn by fashionable women that resembled a shepardess hat. It was referring to the romantic life of the country.  Mob Cap—Large cap with soft, full crown and wide brim which almost hid the face; usually trimmed with ribbon bands and loops Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/georgian.htm

27 THINK MOVIE: Marie Antoinette

28 Empire Men's Fashion  Breeches became longer and more tightly fitted  Trousers or Pantaloons for the street  Coats were cutaway with long tails and standing collars  Waist coats were high waisted and squared off at the bottom  Hair wax and mutton chops were the new hair fad  Wellington style boot

29 Empire Women's Fashion  The triumph of the “undressed” look  Followed the simple flowing lines of the Greek silhouette  Empire Waist  High waisted, natural look  No corsets  Accessories  Gloves  Vinaigrette: small drawstring handbag

30 THINK MOVIE: Emma

31 Romantic Era Men's Fashion  Peg-Top Trousers–Trousers that were wide and pleated at the top and very narrow at the ankles.  The name peg-top originally applied to a boy’s cone-shaped spinning top. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: tory/romantic.htm

32 Men's Fashion  Sack Coat–A loose-fitting coat ending at the finger tips and having high short lapels. It was used in sports and in commerce.  Great Coat–An overcoat usually made out of wool and not as fitted as a regular coat.  Frock Coat–A double-breasted coat having long skirts of equal length in front and back. Romantic Era Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: tory/romantic.htm

33 Romantic Era Men's Fashion Accessories  Ascot–A scarf tied in a knot with horizontal ends, then crossed diagonally. The whole usually held in place with a jeweled stickpin.  Bowler–A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler, similar to a derby, has a slightly wider brim and roll at the sides. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: tory/romantic.htm

34 Romantic Era Women's Fashion  Beret Sleeves - cut from a circle with an opening in the center for the arm and this was gathered and bound into a band. The outer circle was gathered and set into the armhole  Gigot Sleeves–A full sleeve with more fullness at the elbow than at the shoulder or wrist. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: tory/romantic.htm

35 Romantic Era Women's Fashion  Wider Skirt Hemlines:  Gored into panels from to added width at hemline, but keep tight waist  Decoration of stuffed rouleau tubes, Italian quilting and flounces and frills were added to push out the skirt hem width in an architectural way. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: Era

36 Women's Fashion  Pelerine Collars (1836): covered wide shoulders and added modesty.  The width of the lace pelerine reached about 31 inches when at its widest fashion. Romantic Era Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: Era

37 Romantic Era Women's Fashion  Hats: Large romantic wide hats, ornately trimmed with feathers, loops of ribbons and bows  complemented the wide shoulder lines of the 1830s  Bonnets were virtually interchangeable with hats  Coal scuttle bonnet styles with deep crowns accommodated the high  Apollo knot: hair style of a high twist on top of the head. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: Era

38 Victorian Era – Crinoline Men’s Fashion  Prince Albert Coat Another name for the double-breasted frock coat with satin lapels, named after the consort of Queen Victoria who favored the style.  String Tie Basic ribbon, often black, tied in a bow with the ends hanging down.  Gaiters Covers that covered the shoe so they wouldn't get muddy. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: _History/crinoline.htm

39 Victorian Era – Crinoline Men’s Fashion  Dundrearies Long side burnes, Lamb Chops, worn my Lord Dundreary on Our American Cousin, by Tom Taylor.  Stove-Pipe Hat A tall, cylindrical hat with very little brim; worn by men.  Pince Niz A style of eye glasses that pinched the nose. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: _History/crinoline.htm

40 Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion  Return to the look of demure prim gentility  Big hats leave and bonnets return  The Gigot sleeve collapses in for a much narrower sleeve and dropped shoulder line.  Tight, pointed longer boned bodice to emphasize a small waistline  Pantalettes: Leg coverings of lace and ruffles that extended below the knees Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History Retrieved from: era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

41 Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion  Dolman: A three-quarter-length outer wrap made of brocade, silk, or woolen fabric with sleeves cut in one with the body..  Pagoda Sleeves A sleeve shaped like a funnel, tight above and gradually widening at the bottom, often finishing in several ruffles over a soft lawn under-sleeve.  Sleeves were off the shoulders for evening wear for upper class. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History Retrieved from:

42 Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion  Bell shaped skirts become so large they are more dome shaped.  Held up by 6 layers of petticoats  Supported by stiffer fabrics with “Crin” woven in horsehair to make fabrics stiffer.  Crinoline: any garment that used this type of lining to make it stiff  Crinoline cage: metal steel frame cage that freed women of petticoats Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History Retrieved from: era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

43 Victorian Era – Crinoline Think Movies: Gangs of New York Gone With the Wind Little Women

44 Four factors that begin to influence fashion 1. The invention of the sewing machine 2. Fashion becomes couture design led 3. Synthetic dyes allow for intense colors 4. Dome skirt started to have a flat front and a dramatic leaning back. Victorian Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: late_victorian_fashion.htm

45 Victorian Men's Fashion  Blazer—A lightweight sport jacket.  Norfolk Jacket—A jacket with box pleats or straps of the same material passing over the belt and extending from shoulder to hem in front and back; usually worn for sport occasions.  Inverness—A full, sleeveless cape which fitted closely around the neck; from Inverness in Scotland. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: _History/bustle.htm

46 Men's Fashion  Knickerbockers—Full, knee-length breeches gathered in at the knee  Four-in-hand Tie—A type of necktie originally used by coachmen that is tied in a slip knot.  Straw Boater—A man's hard straw hat coated with shellac from India that became popular for summer outings and sporting events in the 1870s Victorian Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: _History/bustle.htm

47 Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion  Bustle—Whalebone or steel strips placed in the top back of the petticoat or in a separate panier puff in order to hold out the elaborate draping at the back of the over skirt.  Bloomers—Loose underdrawers usually gathered at the knee.  Basque—A short, skirt-like termination of an upper garment (originally on the male doublet) Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: _History/bustle.htm

48 Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion  The Soft Bustle Fashion Silhouette  Apron style tablier top layer half skirt  contrasting underskirts and gown linings were all revealed as the over top skirt was divided or turned back. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: late_victorian_fashion.htm

49 Women’s Fashion  From 1870, ball gowns always had a train.  by 1873 the train was seen in day dress.  By 1875 styles were becoming so extreme that the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garment and form itself into a tiered, draped and frilled train  By 1875 soft polonaise bustle styles were becoming so extreme that the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garment and form itself into a tiered, draped and frilled train Victorian - Bustle

50 Women’s Fashion  Victorian Silhouette  Princess Line and the Cuirasse Bodice  soft polonaise style bustle styles were replaced by Princess sheath garments without a waist seam with bodice and skirt cut in one.  Cuirasse bodice: corset like and dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips creating the look of a body encased in armour. Victorian - Bustle Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: late_victorian_fashion.htm

51 Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion  The New Hard Bustle of 1883  jutting out shelf like style of bustle  larger than ever as a hard shape that gave women a silhouette like the hind legs of a horse  Minimal drapery in comparison to earlier bustles  Slimmer more fitted severely tailored princess bodice, with a much flatter front. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: late_victorian_fashion.htm

52 Victorian - Bustle Think Movies: Far and Away Tombstone The Phantom of the Opera

53 Edwardian Era Men’s Fashion  Chesterfield—A fitted dress overcoat with hidden buttons and a velvet collar  Kickers—Full breeches gathered or pleated into knee bands and buckled at the knee Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: e_History/findesiecle.htm

54 Men’s Hats  Panama Hat—A hand-woven hat of fine straw from Ecuador and Colombia, South America.  For-and-Aft Cap—A cap having a visor front and back, often worn with an Inverness cape.  Derby—A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler has a slightly wider brim and a roll at the sides.  Homberg—A carefully blocked, stiff felt hat with a medium tapering crown creased in the middle and a brim that was rolled up on the sides and finished in grosgrain ribbon Edwardian Era Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: e_History/findesiecle.htm

55 Edwardian Era Women’s Fashion  Tailor Made—Mass-produced, ready-to- wear clothing that had a tailored fit often wool or serge because of the tailoring quality.  Leg-o’-Mutton—A sleeve that was extremely wide at the top and tapered at the wrist.  Shirtwaist—A woman’s top detached from the skirt. At first the focal point was the shoulders then it moved to the front. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: e_History/findesiecle.htm

56 Edwardian Era Women’s Fashion  Gibson Girl—More often associated with the topknot hair style. Also a blouse with a single pleat which extended over each shoulder front and back, hiding the armseye of the shirtwaist.  Image of 'The New Woman' who was competitive, sporty and emancipated as well as beautiful. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: e_History/findesiecle.htm

57 Edwardian Era Women’s Fashion  The S-Bend corset and pouter pigeon effect  The high collar, S bend corset, trained skirt and lavish hat all had an effect on the posture of an Edwardian lady and it gave her a certain swaying grandeur.  Evening wear  exceptionally low sweetheart, square and round décolleté necklines allowed women to wear quantities of fine jewelry. No cleavage was visible as the bust was suppressed into a monobosom. Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from: era.com/la_belle_epoque_ _fashion.htm

58 Edwardian Era Women’s Accessories  Gainsborough Hat— velvet, beaver, or straw hat having a low crown and a broad brim, trimmed with feathers.  Feathers  Gloves  Parasols  Bags Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from: era.com/la_belle_epoque_ _fashion.htm

59 Edwardian Era Think Movies: Anne of Green Gables Sherlock Holmes


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