Presentation on theme: "WARM Program Procedures: An Introduction February 18 and 19, 2010."— Presentation transcript:
WARM Program Procedures: An Introduction February 18 and 19, 2010
Meeting Objectives ►Hear an overview of the First Energy WARM and WARM Plus Program – Policies and Procedures ►For Management, Auditors, Educators, Crew Leaders – All Decision Makers
Meeting Topics ►WARM Program Audit, top to bottom Purpose and Primary Steps Customer Interview/Partnering Process Seasonal Allowance Spreadsheet and Use History Structure and Appliance Inspection Measuring and Evaluation Air Leakage Measure Evaluation Combustion Safety Testing Customer Education
Purpose of the WARM Audit Process ►Identify electricity-saving opportunities ►Recommend electricity-saving measures and actions ►Project savings from the measures and actions ►Recognize (and sometimes correct) health and safety problems
Purpose of the WARM Audit Form To Collect and Document: PUC required information Auditor discoveries – existing conditions Allowable measures based on job type Auditor and customer action steps What was done – post work conditions Auditor or installer concerns Supports the WARM 3 System and Invoice Can work as a work order form for some
WARM 3 Demo ►Does anyone in the room need a demonstration of the WARM 3 system? ►If so, please let me know and I’ll show it at the end of the day.
Step One: Customer Interview Pages 1-3 ►Explain the purposes of the WARM Program to the customer ►Assess the opportunity to save and explain your approach ►Introduce the Partnership Process ►Ask questions – they usually know a lot about their space and comfort – and listen ►Include the customer in your decision-making – use Our Savings Strategy
Assess the Opportunity for Electricity Savings ►Determine if the customer’s use is in the low, mid range, or high range using their kWh data, the Seasonal Allowance Spreadsheet, and the information on the following table. ►Then focus your efforts in the home based on your determination. ►Since savings follows use, you will likely find more opportunities to install measures where the use is high.
What does Baseload Mean? ►Baseload use: Energy used to power things that are used year round ►Seasonal use: Energy used to power the heating and cooling systems ►Both vary throughout the year, but usually not significantly: + or – 10%
Reasons to Address Baseload ►Sometimes, reducing electric baseload can guarantee better savings than measures geared toward reducing the cost of heating and/or cooling: Savings Follows Use. ►Plug loads are increasing. ►The number of occupants impacts use, which impacts savings potential. ►Client choices can make a 10 to 1 difference in total use. ►Changing operating behaviors, such as control settings, fewer hours of use, more efficient appliances, can make a big difference.
What are the WARM Program allowable baseload measures? ►Refrigerator and freezer replacement ►Compact fluorescent light bulbs to replace incandescent bulbs and halogen fixtures ►Clothes dryer venting improvements ►Replace unsafe or leaking water heaters ►Install custom hot water saving measures ►Smart Power Strips ►Other cost effective opportunities (that will pay for themselves in energy savings in 10 years or less) ►REMEMBER: the cost of Baseload measures doesn’t come out of the Allowance
WARM Lighting Assessment, page 3 ►Pick reliable CFL’s with the highest lumens for the lowest wattage (highest efficacy). ►Install some CFL’s in fixtures used 1-2 hours a day ►Install some CFL’s in fixtures used an average of 2 or more hours daily. ►Carry a variety of CFL bulbs – there is a CFL available for ALL applications (except a bright, dimmable, candle-based). ►Replace halogen fixtures with CFL fixtures if they are used 2 hours or more a day. ►Maximum: 12 per home without permission to install more. MORE FOR WARM PLUS- minimum 2 more CFL’s, avg. 4 per home, up to no limit, but must be used 1 hour or more per day average.
CFL Savings Calculation Watts saved x hrs. used/day x days per month ÷ 1,000 (to convert to kWh) x cents per kWh = Savings from replacing the bulb Example: 75 watts saved (changed a 100 watt bulb to a 25 watt bulb) x 10 hours per day = 750 watts saved per day 750 watts saved per day x 30 days = 22,500 ÷1,000 = 22.5 kWh saved per month, or $2.25 saved / mo. for changing out this one bulb (at 10 cents per kWh)
WARM Refrigerator and Freezer Testing Requirements, page 5 & 6 ►Test all units 5 years old or older. ►If you can’t test the unit, use a database to assess use. ►Min. one hour test for refrigerators, but test as long as possible. 2-hour tests give good results. Freezers must be tested for 2 hours minimum. ►Take temperatures of the room and the inside of the fresh food and freezer compartments. ►Adjust the test results for ambient air temperature. ►Secondary units may be replaced. ►Maximum two new units per household, without permission.
Using the Brultech, Kill A Watt, or other watt-hour meter
What Data Needs to be Recorded? Pages 5, 6 ►Refrigerator/Freezer Make, Model, Size ►Monitored kWh use ►Monitored kWh use adjusted to a one- hour reading ►Be sure to document why you didn’t test ►Be sure to document temperatures for adjusting the results ►Document why a different size was ordered to replace the old one.
Refrigerator Minimum Use Thresholds Existing Size (cu. ft.) Minimum Threshold for Replacement kWh at 1 hr. Minimum Threshold for Replacement kWh at 2 hr. Minimum kWh/year of Existing Unit Approx. kWh/yr of New Unit 15 or less.104 kWh/hrAt least.208911354 16-19.13 kWh/hrAt least.261,139368 (17 cu. ft.) 383 (18 cu. ft.) 20-24.14 kWh/hrAt least.281,226408 (21 cu. ft.) 25 or greater.2 kWh/hrAt least.41,752 577 max. (20- 25 cu. ft.)
Monitoring Field Reference (NJ Comfort Partners Program) Best Practice: Adjust for: Room temperature Monitoring time of day
WARM Ambient Air Temperature Adjustment Factor Ambient Air Temperature Immediately Surrounding the Refrigerator During Testing 5 F (or more) hotter than average0.88 factor Average annual temperature for room*1.00 factor 5 F (or more) cooler than average1.13 factor *If average temperature not known by customer, use 70 F
It is OK to replace the refrigerator if… ►It meets the minimum use threshold to replace by metering. If the unit cannot be metered,… ►It meets the minimum use threshold to replace by using a refrigerator database. ►Maximum two units (refrigerator/freezer) per household. ►Try to trade multiple units for one or two new units. ►Show the customer the product spec sheets. ►If trading two for one, even if the second unit is a freezer, a larger new one is allowed ►Describe differences between the sizes of the fresh food and freezer compartments of the new unit with the old unit WARM Participants who received a new refrigerator saved considerably more than those who didn’t. Inefficient units that cannot be replaced should be addressed through customer education.
Freezer Testing Follow refrigerator testing guidelines with these exceptions: ►Test freezers for a minimum of 2 hours ►Replace only when the unit is a necessity Freezers tend to use the same amount of electricity as a comparable size refrigerator.
Freezer Replacement Criteria Existing Freezer Type Existing Freezer Size (c.f.) If Existing One-Hour Use is Greater ThanThen ChestLess than 8.064 kWhReplace existing unit Chest8.1 to 12.9.084 kWhReplace existing unit Chest13 to 15.5.103 kWhReplace existing unit Chest15.6 & larger.154 kWhReplace existing unit UprightLess than 10.074 kWhReplace existing unit Upright10.1 to 12.9.103 kWhReplace existing unit Upright13 to 15.5.123 kWhReplace existing unit Upright15.6 & larger.154 kWhReplace existing unit
Annual Refrigerator Consumption Calculation ►Use these formulas to figure annual cost to run the unit for customer education: ___ kWh / hr x 8760 hr / yr = ____ kWh / yr ____ kWh / yr x 0.095 ¢ / kWh = annual cost to run
WARM Dryer Guidelines, page 7 ►If it takes longer than 60 min. to dry a load, the dryer or the venting may need repairs. ►If venting, use metal smooth wall ducting, 25 ft. or less. ►No screws: Only tape and clamps ►Vent to the outside using the shortest and straightest route possible and secure hanging ducting with straps. ►Dryer warranties may require straight, rigid 6 ft. ducting. ►Flex duct is cheap and easy to install, but may cause problems. ►Consider a clothesline installation.
Customer Education Reducing Dryer Costs ►Locate the dryer in a heated space. ►Make sure the dryer is vented properly. ►Clean out the outside exhaust vent cover and replace if it doesn’t close when the dryer is off. ►Clean the lint filter after every use. ►Dry full loads but don’t overfill. ►Dry two or more loads in a row. ►Dry clothes outside when possible.
Dryer Venting Bottom line: Dryers should be vented outside if they are used to dry 5 or more loads per week and the dryer takes at least 60 minutes per load.
What Needs to be Recorded? Page 7 ►If the water heater is electric, be sure to document the laundry loads. This is related to reducing hot water use. (sort of out of sequence on the form) ►If the dryer is electric, be sure to document the number of loads dried per week. This is related to reducing drying time and dryer venting opportunities.
Other Opportunities, page 7 ►Waterbed heaters use electricity. They can be eliminated by removing the waterbed. ►HVAC filters and maintenance, pump use, dehumidifier use, septic grinders, and other end uses can be documented here AND addressed in WARM if cost effective.
“Other Baseload Use” WARM Standards ►Identify other causes for high baseload use. ►Inform the customer of your discovery. ►Determine savings to investment ratio, or simple cost effectiveness (will the installation save more in energy costs in 10 years than it will cost for the measure?) ►Educate the customer about ways they can reduce their baseload by reducing hours the item is on; changing control settings; and replacing inefficient appliances that are not typically part of WARM.
Plug Load Energy Use is Increasing U.S. delivered residential energy consumption by end use, 2001, 2004, 2015, and 2030 (million Btu per household) Source: Energy Information Administration 2006
Power Settings & Mode ON ►Active power ►Low power mode ►Indeterminate power ►Sleep/hibernate REALLY OFF ►No power ►Unplugged ►Power switched off with strip or other control device “OFF” Standby power Phantom load Vampire power Idle power Anything with a remote, display, touchpad, or light is using power even when turned “off”
Standby Loads and Lifestyle ►Plug-ins, otherwise known as wall warts, (cell phone chargers, laptop power bricks) and appliances (microwaves, VCR’s, stereos and home computers) constantly draw wattage, even when off. ►If it has a light, display, transformer, charger, remote control device, it is using electricity even when it is not on. ►After a while they can add up to as big a load factor as a refrigerator.
Smart Power Strips ►Allowable WARM and WARM Plus measure ►Choose location carefully – see Specification in the Procedures Manual ►Maximum 4 per home allowed ►Typically used on computer stations and entertainment set-ups ►Control outlet, switched outlets, always hot outlets ►Google: BITS Smart Power Strip Video
Diagnostics: Getting & Using Power (W) & Energy (kWh) information Requires: Deciphering the obvious Tracking, reading, recording, calculating and metering
Sample Annual kWh of TVs by Mode ►Standby power is similar regardless of TV type or size. ►Newer TVs use a lot more energy than older ones. ►Larger and newer technologies (plasma & rear projection) tend to be used more and are frequently part of a larger entertainment set up. Source: Ecos Consulting, “Final Field Research Report”, 2007
Consumption Game Console Power Use Consumption NRDC Study of Set Top Box and Game Console Power Use, May 2007, Peter Ostendorp, Ecos Consulting
Battery Charging Strategies ►Chargers can draw 5 to 20 times more power than they can store so... Unplug chargers once battery is charged Use timer to control charge cycle ►Choose equipment based on charging performance ►Buy efficient chargers ►Use rechargeable batteries ►Use power strips to simplify disconnecting chargers
Strategies to Control Home Electronic Energy Use ►Unplug stuff you don’t use ►Manage control settings for maximum efficiency ►Turn equipment off when not actively using ►Minimize standby use with power strips, switched outlets, unplugging, etc. ►Purchase less stuff ►Buy the most efficient products possible
Dehumidifiers ►In WARM, dehumidifiers are typically not replaced. Inefficient dehumidifiers can be addressed through customer education and/or replacement with a simple payback calculation. ►Inefficient or improperly set dehumidifiers can contribute to baseload use. Appropriate use of a dehumidifier is a summer seasonal use. ►Use a dehumidifier to bring humidity level within a comfort zone (45 – 50% RH).
Dehumidifiers, Education ►How to use a dehumidifier efficiently: Eliminate the cause of moisture when possible. Use the right size unit. Use a dehumidifier with a humidistat. Set the dehumidifier to the correct relative humidity. Empty the bucket before it’s full or drain into a sink or drain. Keep sources of water away from the unit. Close windows and doors to the space. Locate the unit so that air can move around it. Don’t use a dehumidifier with air conditioning. If the air temperature drops below 65º F, coils can frost up. Turn off the unit and let it defrost.
Waterbed Heaters ►Waterbeds are addressed in WARM if the waterbed has an inefficient heater by replacing waterbeds with standard mattresses, eliminating the heater, OR through customer education. ►Sales peaked in 1988 and have since declined. In the Mid 1990’s 15-20% of U.S. households have at least one waterbed. ►Waterbed heaters have changed in the past 7 or 8 years to be more efficient.
Waterbed Heaters Energy Use ►Most waterbed heaters use between 150 and 300 watts. ►Average older waterbed heaters use about 125 kWh and cost about $11 per month. ►Newer waterbed heaters use about 80 kWh and cost about $7 per month. ►Replacing waterbed mattresses with foam mattresses saves about 1,300 kWh annually ($111). ►Covering an existing waterbed mattress with a foam mattress pad saves about 800kWh annually ($68).
Sump Pumps, Water Pumps, Well Pumps, Pool Pumps, Pressure Tanks ►Problems with any of the above can cause high baseload use. ►WARM can address pump issues. ►Leaks can cause pumps to work longer. ►If you hear a pump kick on and off in quick succession, there is likely a problem. ►Find leaks and fix them. ►Use timers to control pool pumps. ►Energy efficient pumps can save 36% of operating cost.
WARM Program Domestic Hot Water Saving Measures, page 8 ►New water heaters ►Health, safety, efficiency measures ►Temperature reduction ►Fix hot water leaks ►Timer (if on the RT rate) Be sure to do the rate calculator spreadsheet! ►GFX ►Education (use less hot water)
WARM Water Heater Replacement Standards ►An electric water heater may be replaced if: It is leaking, or It is rusted, or It has one or more bad elements, or The tank’s R value is 8 or lower
New Water Heater Specs ►The new water heater must: Have a minimum EF of.90 Have at least 2” of foam insulation Have built-in heat traps Have a 6 year (or higher) warranty Be sized correctly
Step Three: Assess Cooling Use Page 9, 10 ►Check the Summer Seasonal Use on the Seasonal Allowance Spreadsheet. ►If the use is 2,000 kWh or more, and that use is due to AC use, consider installing measures that reduce cooling load. ►If air sealing will be done, then air leakage testing and combustion safety tests must be performed.
WARM Cooling Measures Consult the Cooling Measure Selection Guide and Priority List ►High efficiency window film ►White, reflective roof coating ►Room AC replacement ►AC tune up/cleaning ►Central AC or heat pump replacement ►Duct sealing and insulation ►Attic insulation and air sealing
Cooling Assessment, page 10 ►Involves behavior, settings, mechanicals, AND the structure! ►Use the Solar Pathfinder to be sure the windows being considered for film are actually un-shaded for several hours in the summer months. ►Use the Solar Pathfinder to qualify roofs for reflective roof coating. ►Record as much information as possible about the window AC units. ►Assess the central AC/heat pump.
How Do Our Homes Overheat? Mostly From Solar Gain on Roof and Through Windows
Cooling Measure Selection Guide and Priority List ►Follow the Guide and Priority List in the WARM Procedures Manual, page 4-66 ►First things first
Window Film ►Energy savings result from rejecting solar heat, the primary reason for home’s overheating and therefore AC use ►“Are there any windows on the west, south and maybe east that are not shaded in the summer during the hours of 9 AM and 4 PM?” ►Choose a film that meets the specification of: .58 or lower shading coefficient 1.0 or lower U value 50% or more total solar energy rejection
Why White Roofs? ►This works on the principals of emissivity and reflectivity ►Emissivity: the total energy released by the object – white roofs give up their heat quickly to the night sky ►Reflectivity: silver coatings reflect well… but they do a poor job of releasing heat
White Elastomeric Roof Coat (Liz Robinson, ECA)
Room AC Units, page 10 ►“Is the EER on the existing room AC 6 or lower? If so, it can be replaced with an EER 10 or greater, but the Summer Seasonal Use (kWh) must be 2,000 or more to replace 1 unit, and 2,500 to replace 2 units, and 3,000 to replace 3 units.”
Size Correctly! ►A properly sized AC should run constantly on the hottest day of the year!
Central AC or Heat Pump Replacement ►Customers must have at least 3,000 kWh of summer seasonal use in order to qualify for central AC system replacement and 4,500 kWh of annual seasonal use for heat pump replacement. ►Must get FirstEnergy approval. ►Clean and Tunes are encouraged first, when possible.
Structure Sketch, Page 11 ►Have Fun, but be sure to document anything the Final Inspector may need to know. ►Also document any structural health or safety issues. ►Use this page for your crews as well.
Attic Insulation and Attic Air Barriers, For Heating and Cooling Load Reduction, page 12 ►Follow the same WARM guidelines for insulating and air sealing the attic to reduce cooling load as you would to reduce heating load. ►Document obvious thermal boundary leaks/air barrier voids. ►Record details about each attic space.
Assess Electric Heating Pages 10 - 17 ►If the winter seasonal use is 2,000 kWh or more, the building can be assessed for electric heat load reduction measures, even if electric space heaters are the primary heat ►The Measure Selection Guide should be consulted to help in making decisions
Visual Assessment ►Evaluate the effective R value of existing insulation: walls, attics, ducts, critical junctures, basement and crawl ceilings ►Observe air barrier breaks ►Determine the location of the thermal boundary/air barrier ►Pay attention to heat producing fixtures
Measure Selection Guide and Priority List ►Follow the Measure Selection Guide on page 4- 64 of the WARM Procedures Manual for reducing electric heat load. ►Follow the Priority List on page 4-65 of the WARM Procedures Manual to help guide the process. ►First things first.
Attics, Basements, Crawlspaces, page 13 ►Access details ►Heat Producing Fixtures: Safety and Air Sealing ►Chimney or flue damming ►Basement/crawl air sealing ►Basement/crawl insulation ►Ground covers ►Mobile home bellies
Whole House Air Sealing ►Record details about the areas where air leakage was reduced, or will be treated by the crew, or where the crew should work
Cantilevers and Sidewalls, page 15 ►Document cantilever existing air barrier and insulation, as well as what is proposed. ►Document siding type and proposed insulation. Be sure to document safety issues.
Garages, Other Zones, Ducts, page 16 ►The thermal boundary should be continuous – assess the garage – and any other in-between areas, such as laundry rooms, porches… ►The WARM guidelines for sealing and insulating ducts are the same to reduce cooling load as they are to reduce heating load. ►Be sure to document the pre and post duct testing results! ►Be sure to document if the testing was done at 25 Pa or 50 Pa.
Air Tightness Diagnostics, page 17 ►BTL calculation ►Blower door testing ►Zonal tests ►Duct tests ►Combustion safety tests Document test results!!!! Test in and test out!!!
Unvented Appliances ►Remember: Don’t seal the building tighter than 3,000 CFM -50 Pa if there is an unvented combustion appliance.
Combustion Safety Testing Page 18 Combustion Safety Tests must be performed if: ►Conventionally vented combustion appliances exist and ►Air sealing is done – to reduce cooling load or to reduce heating load
Final Step: Consumer Education ► Our Energy Savings Strategy form! ►This is the summary of what was done, what will be done, and the benefits ►Documents what the customer agreed to do to take control of their electricity use
Putting Costs on Current and More Efficient Behaviors ►Find the wattage of the appliance. ►Ask about use hours per day, week, month. ►Figure cost and tell customer (putting costs on behaviors). ►Figure cost of more efficient ways of doing the same thing and tell customer the differences. ►Let customer choose which way they want to operate the appliance or lights.
Additional Tools ►Rate Calculator Tool – Rate Counseling ►PCAP Counseling ►Air Tight Home handout ►Weatherization Release form
Summary, page 19 ►Checklist to assist the Final Inspection and invoicing process.
Analysis of Consumption IF…….. ►…the baseload, and/or cooling, and/or heating use is LOW, THEN … focus on the category of use that is in the MID or HIGH range. ►…the baseload use (with or without water heating included) is in the MID or HIGH range, there is likely waste or problems with one or more appliances, SO … be sure to replace incandescent bulbs with CFL’s, check all the refrigeration units and replace inefficient units, and do a good job educating the customer about hot water use, and turning off electronics and other plug loads.
Analysis continued ►…the cooling use is in the MID or HIGH range, consider replacement of AC units, consider window film and white roof coating (or attic insulation), THEN … check for duct leakage outside the thermal boundary, and do a good job educating about how to follow low-energy cooling strategies. ►…the heating use is in the MID or HIGH range, CONSIDER … air sealing and insulation, thermostat change outs, duct sealing if outside the thermal boundary, and do a good job educating about thermostat settings. ►Remember: This is just a guide. You won’t really know what is going on in the home to determine the energy saving opportunities until you get into the home.