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Lecture 13 Single Knit Machines (plain). Main Products Single Jersey Pique Locast Honey comb Pique fleece Two thread fleece Feed stripes.

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Presentation on theme: "Lecture 13 Single Knit Machines (plain). Main Products Single Jersey Pique Locast Honey comb Pique fleece Two thread fleece Feed stripes."— Presentation transcript:

1 Lecture 13 Single Knit Machines (plain)

2 Main Products Single Jersey Pique Locast Honey comb Pique fleece Two thread fleece Feed stripes

3 Single Knit Machine Working Single bed of needle Only cylinders Needles and sinkers High speed Wider width Most common Easy to handle

4 Double Knit Machines Cylinder and Dial Two bed of needles No sinker Double side knitting

5 Sub types Interlock Rib Double jersey (interchangeable)

6 Interlock Highly flexible fabric Can adopt any body shape Used for under garments Soft hand feel

7 Rib More strength For grip purposes Used at neck, arm opening, waist band Always heavier than main fabric

8 Stripes Feed stripes Engineered stripes

9 Terry To have towel effect Velour fabric

10 Loop Knitting Fleece Two thread fleece Three thread fleece

11 Jacquard Mostly double knit machines Electronic Mechanical

12 Lecture 14 Single Knitting Machines  Single jersey  Fleece  Terry  Stripes

13 Jersey Knitting Jersey Fabric  The consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produces a fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. Jersey fabrics may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines. Jersey Stitch  A basic stitch used in weft knitting, in which each loop formed in the knit is identical. The jersey stitch is also called the plain, felt, or stockinet stitch.

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16 Single Jersey 30"/E22 Yarn:Cotton 34/1 Nm Fabric weight:150 g/m2 Efficiency:85% Speed:up to 50 rpm Production:204 m/h kg/h

17 Lecture 15 Fleece Fabric A fabric made by sheep wool, soft warm A fabric soft, warm bulky Generally used to: Protection from cold Sweat absorption (sweat shirt) Baby clothes

18 Fleece --- A fabric knitted with two types of yarn. Fine yarn is on front side and course yarn on back side. In most of cases fine yarn is 100% cotton while course yarn is P/C 50:50 Normal combination and fiber ratio:  30/16, 20/10, 26/12 etc  PC/C, C/PC

19 Types of Fleece Two thread fleece Three Thread Fleece

20 Two thread Fleece Very rare Was popular when three thread fleece were not common Generally not liked due to impassion of course yarn on front side Low quality product

21 Made on single jersey machines Maximum medium weight, since very course yarn difficult to use Long loop is difficult

22 Cam Arrangement On Fleece fabric.doc three needle track machine:

23 CHARACTERISTICS OF TWO THEAD FLEECE Light to medium weight Double impact on front side, particularly in case of different fibers No good brushing possible due to short length of loop

24 Three Thread Fleece Made on fleece machines High grammage is possible( 500 GSM) High brushing due to long loop on back side Maximum course yarn is possible ( up to 10 count) on back side Very common in use Fleece machine guage is 16 or 18

25 Yarn C/PC PC/C 30/16, 22/12/ 20/10

26 Fiber Percentage Calculation Method Example: Front yarn 30s 100% cotton Back yarn 16 s 50:50 P/C Consumption ratio  Front Two kgs  Back one kg

27 Total consumption three kgs Calculation: front yarn 2 kgs 100 % cotton Back yarn 1 kg ( ½ Kg polyester and ½ kg cotton Total Cotton consumed =2.5 Kgs Total polyester consumed ½ kg Ratio: cotton= 2.5/3*100= 83.33% Polyester= 0.53*100=16.66% Such ratio is normally called 80:20 Fleece

28 Main characteristics of Three Highly absorbent High weight is possible Can use entirely different yarn on both sides( even dyed yarn) Pattern is possible ( diagonal stripes etc) Very common in use

29 Fleece problems and their remedies Uneven loop – control yarn supply Loop stretch– control cam tension Needle line on front side Wales thickness variation on front side due to fluff contamination between the needles, needs regular cleaning, more cleaning is required due to course yarn

30 Poor brushing–due to high TPI yarn– use low TPI Dyeing variation due to different percentage of yarn… calculate exact % by using Skelton test Steak problem after dyeing due to heavy weight fabric--- use anti creasing agents in dyeing

31 High shrinkage --- use compactor or tumble dryers

32 Other types of fleece Sherpa fleece --- brushed and washed to get balls Polar fleece ---- loops on both sides also brushed on both side

33 Double Face loop Knitting

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37 Loop knits Terry fabric to knitted terry towel


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