Presentation on theme: "dermalogica partnership school program"— Presentation transcript:
1dermalogica partnership school program segment 1school programSegment 1This is your introduction to the Dermalogica segments you will be using as additional support material for a very important aspect of your curriculum. Every slide is scripted but as you become familiar with the material, you may add your own notes and comments.This segment outlines the material and introduces the Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis Consultation Card, step by step. You may choose to use only the slides that pertain to your curriculum plan for a particular day.A quick reference of each slide in the presentation is provided at the beginning of every segment. Times are noted in some instances, however, it will depend on your individual curriculums how much time you allot to each subject. You may use them as needed to review and reinforce learning.Quick Reference: CategoriesIntroduction: slides 1-4Course goals: slide 5Course outline: slides 6-10Core elements of a skin care treatment: slides 11-12What you will be using: Dermalogica Professional Product Line: slide 13The consultation card: slides 14-25Skin analysis, skin type vs. skin condition: slides 26 and 27Contraindications: slide 28Review and homework assignment: slide 29Instructor preparation and support:Milady's Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians: Chapter 13Pivot Point Fundamentals Esthetics: Chapters 9-10Dermalogica Classes: Dermalogica Live and The Dermalogica Skin Treatment
2Founded in 1983, The International Dermal Institute is where the company began, offering advanced postgraduate education in professional skin and body therapy treatments. Because they began with education, they are an educational company with a product line – not a product line offering education.Dermalogica was created by The International Dermal Institute in 1986 in response to therapists needs for a skin care system that truly met their professional requirements. Today, Dermalogica is available globally in over 55 countries! Highly recognized for pioneering unique success concepts for the industry like Face Mapping® skin analysis, Speed Mapping® skin analysis, Skin Bar, and MicroZone® Treatments.Dermalogica also has its own company concept spaces. Feel free to visit and see what Dermalogica’s take is on professional skin care.Current locations in:Santa Monica, California (USA)Kensington, London (UK)Berlin, GermanySoHo district, Manhattan, New York City (USA)Distributor concept spaces:New ZealandIndiaDubaiLink: There are also have many places for you to receive postgraduate training with the International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica around the world.
3These are the many locations in the United States and around the world of the International Dermal Institute post-graduate training centers. A benefit of being a Dermalogica Partnership School is that your students will have access to the education provided at any of these centers. Upon graduating from your school, students will be given a completion packet (shipped to your attention when you order student kits)Contents include:A certificate of completion from a Dermalogica Partnership School.A “Welcome to your Future” CD from Jane Wurwand.A discount voucher for postgraduate class at the location of their choiceAnd much more…Check out for interesting links and information about classes and locations.Link to next slide – Now let’s introduce you to your course and discuss what you will be learning in the next few months….
4introduction Total time: 1 hour Preparation: Pass out training materials to students, this may also be the day they get student kits, etc…The purpose of this module is to introduce the students to Dermalogica and explain how it will be used to enhance their learning experience.
5course goalsTo provide you with the highest level of technical and theoretical skillsTo help you reach your professional goals in the exciting field of professional skin therapyTo support you throughout the term with an emphasis on excellence in education, using the most current educational resources in the skin care industryGo over course goals briefly, interject personal thoughts and motivation where pertinent.Contemporary and advanced environment for learning and enhancing skills.Understanding the choices you make concerning your professional goals.The most advanced technical information in the field of skin therapy - discuss industry partners, etc...
6course outlineProduct knowledge: prescription for home care and professional treatmentsLearn the dermalogica skin treatmentDesign prescription (customized) skintreatmentsDermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis procedureDiscuss and perform exfoliation techniquesBriefly explain each point, stressing the importance of each element and how it affects the total treatment that they will be learning. Each item on the list must be learned and practiced to the point of perfection.Don’t just read off the slide, interject how much theory and practice it takes to become expert at each technique involved.
7course outline Learn and practice extraction techniques Determine different types of serums andmasque applicationsHow to build a clientele and prescriptive retailingStress that they will be working with an advanced professional treatment line.Continue with building a clientele, communication skills, etc..State board preparation and testing (pass out your state's guidelines and rules/regulations, if available).Note: Instructor - this is your chance to bring in topics and ideas that influence you - industry magazines, posters, newsletters etc… you may also want to invite someone in from a local skin care center to welcome the students to the industry.Notes:
8The dermalogica skin treatment The professional environmentThe consultationFace Mapping® skin analysis for prescriptive retailThe techniques and professional product applicationYour script:Firstly, we need to look at providing the correct environment for our clients.Dermalogica provides many of these tools for you to use in your skin treatment center.You will learn how to use the consultation card (hand out consultation card) and by understanding the reasons behind each question, determine exactly what and why our client may be experiencing different conditions. The Face Mapping® skin analysis consultation card is one of the most important steps in the treatment as it will determine everything that you use and subsequently the expected results.We will guide you through Dermalogica professional systems, customization choices and specific pressure point aromatherapy massage techniques.The Face Mapping® skin analysis prescription is the final step to your treatment and a critical part to the experience. Our client seeks our professional advice and must maintain the health of their skin after their professional treatment. We cannot help them if they do not follow our advice!
9creating a dermalogica skin care environment Visually – Sense of sightVerbally – Spoken wordKinesthetically – Through touch and feelYour script:The ultimate skin care experience should begin as the client enters the skin treatment center. Use Dermalogica’s support materials to help you advertise what you do and recommend. Make sure that you appear to be serious about skin care. Do not have magazines that advertise the spa down the street or other skin care brands. Everything is about the experience and how we affect the client.Visually – Sense of sight: reception area, treatment room, dress code, etc.Verbally – Spoken word: greeting on phone, at reception desk, tone and pitch are very important.Kinesthetically – Through touch/feel: helping the client relax and get comfortable, focusing on the client and their preferences, customizing the treatment.
10room set up - preparation First ImpressionsWarm and inviting atmosphereSupplies and equipment in working order and on handCabinets clean and organizedFreshly laundered bedding, towels, and client garmentsYour script:First impressions: this is of course a picture of a professional treatment room, very clean, warm and inviting.Our goal here, while you are learning, will be to create a similar environment for our clients.Discuss:Feedback about how important it is to maintain a similar type of environment while they are in school.Protocols that you have established to maintain a clean and efficient learning environment.
11core elements of a skin care treatment ConsultationCleanse eyes and lipsCleanse 2xSkin analysisExfoliationExtractionsMassageMasqueToneMoisturize/sunscreenExplain to students that these are the core elements in a treatment. The basics that they have to master in order to be successful.You will be going into more detail in the Overview Module, so keep this brief.
12treatment “options” Consultation Cleanse eyes and lips Cleanse x 2 - steam/electric brushesSkin analysisExfoliation - steam/electric brushesDesincrustation, galvanicVacuum suction with steamExtractionsHigh frequencyMassage - infra redConcentrateMasqueElectric pulverisatorToneMoisturize/sunscreenYour script:The highlighted areas are options that may be given within the treatment based on client’s skin condition and your goals for results. All the options do not have to be done, but they will be learned. It will be up to you, the therapist, to choose the appropriate options for the client and their skin condition.We will go into more detail on each of these elements for the next few months. The key to learning and mastering each step is to pay attention to every detail, and practice, practice, practice.If you are currently using a skin care regimen, such as home peels, over the counter hydroxy acids or Retin A, you must interrupt your program while you are going through this program. We will be working on each other on a daily or weekly basis, so be gentle with your skin.
13your professional products Largest selection of professional productsUsed by professional skin therapists onlyFormula breakthroughs and maximum strengthFull ingredient listing on packagingSpecialty products and retail products in professional sizeInstructors: Let students know that they will be training and learning with professional use only products that will enhance their learning experience in real time practical experience.Dermalogica has the largest selection of professional products in the industry and many unique ways in which they can be customized and used together. Many of the formulas are at a professional strength so are intended for use by professionally qualified skin therapists.Each product is researched and developed by The International Dermal Institute and is tested by instructors(PSTs) to ensure it performs in the treatment setting and will get the best results on your client’s skin. Designed by skin therapists for skin therapists not many companies can claim that or have the ability to put their products to work in a live training environment!You will be working with break through formulations for use in your treatments,like water-soluble cleansers and massage creams, oil free massage mediums, maximum concentration complexes and exfoliants that can be increased in strength!Dermalogica was also the first company to provide full ingredient lists on professional packaging.How the professional products are grouped:speciality range which are our unique, professional strength products, only available to the skin therapist and not to the client andthe core treatment range which are the Dermalogica retail products but in larger economical sizes.
14Discovering more about your client the consultation cardDiscovering more about your clientNow let’s consider the importance of the consultation.Dermalogica pioneered the importance of the professional consultation and has always provided the Dermalogica skin therapist with these great tools to help. Knowing how to read the card and understanding what it tells you about your client is of vital importance.This is not just a tool to determine contraindications to a treatment, as it can also be used with great success to help you determine your client’s inherent skin conditions and probable cause, therefore aiding in the Face Mapping® skin analysis procedure and ultimately the ideal customized treatment for each individual client and their skin.It is not simply a formality, it helps you to show the client your interest in their skin health and how much you know!Quick Student Reference: Dermalogica – “the book” pages The Dermalogica consultation card
15conducting the consultation Complete the card 15minutes before treatment timeClient signature is criticalThe card is essential for the Face Mapping® procedureExpectations andconcerns are addressedStudents have a consultation card in the back of their Dermalogica training manual “thebook”, to be filled out and collected. It is a good idea to read over and see if any arecontraindicated to being worked on in any way. If a student is using a different regimen orproduct line, it would be a good idea for them to put it on hold (unless medical) while theyare in training.Your script:Normally this is the most neglected part of the treatment, but it is a priority in orderto ensure that the client is happy with their treatment and you have addressed theirconcerns.The in-depth consultation will not only reveal any contraindications to your planned course of treatment, but will also give you a glimpse into the client’s current regimen and expectations of your services. Keeping your Dermalogica consultation cards up-to-date will, therefore, not only allow you to chart your clients’ progress, but will also be a vital legal record of whether or not each client has accurately disclosed related medical conditions.2. Produces a positive response from the client as they are being heard and are having your personal attention.3. Also makes the client focus on the treatment: skin health vs. a treat!4. Brings respect to the skin therapist, through the education and insight they can provide about the client’s skin condition.Although we do not need to be with our client at the time of completing the consultation cardwe need to be able to explain the importance of the card to our clients.If we are unavailable to talk to our client prior to the treatment we need to be able to discussthis procedure over the phone when booking the appointment or make sure that our frontdesk coordinator is able to explain this procedure.We must know and understand our consultation card from front to back in order to use iteffectively.The question, "How did you hear about us?" at the top of the consultation card allows you to track your skin treatment center’s advertising/promotional activity effectively. Also note how we have updated the card with asking for the client’s address.You must collect all relevant information to capture your client so that the contact information can be transferred into your database.
16the consultation card your health 1. Within the last year, have you been under a dermatologist or other physician’s care?2. Within the last 9 months, have you undergone any surgery? If yes please specify ___________________________________3. Have you had any health problems in the past or present? If yes please specify ___________________________________4. List any medications, supplements, vitamins, diuretics, slimming tablets etc. that you take regularly ___________________________________5. Do you smoke?Students follow through with the consultation card. Stress that all of these details are in theirnotes. We really need to concentrate on product usage associated with concerns addressedon the consultation card.Your script:Client’s Health - Helps you to discover more about your client’s health and stress levels.If the client has been under a physician’s care in the past year, we must ask tactfully, “Do I need to be aware of the type of care, may it affect the skin?” May need to implement the “less” rule. If it has been a Dermatologist, then we may need to find out what procedures may have been performed as the skin could be very fragile, may need to check with the Doctor as to the suitability of the treatment we had planned.Recent SurgeryScars should not be massaged (IDI style petrissage or frictions) for at least 3 months (face area) or 6 months (body area).3. Health Problems:Cancer - No lymph drainage. If skin cancer, check with Doctor.Diabetes - Poor healing, no waxing or extractions.Epilepsy - No electrical currents.Heart Problems - No body massage. No electrical current.Hormone Imbalance - May experience acne or very dry skin, excess hair growth and weight changes.Hysterectomy - May experience skin breakouts and/or dryness.Thyroid Conditions - Underactive: dry skin Overactive: oily skin, which products would we use?Varicose Veins - No massage on the body due to the risk of moving a blood clot.Systemic Disease - Could indicate fragility and sensitivity with the skin, higher risk of bruising, poor healing. Check with Doctor if you are unsure if the client should be treated. A Doctor’s note can be requested and sent through to the skin treatment center or brought in by the client. Less rule applies for diabetes, no lymph drainage for cancer. If in doubt check with a doctor.4. Your client’s medications and vitamins can also have a dramatic effect on their skin.Note: For detailed information on skin reactions to medications, refer to Consumers Guide to Prescription and Non-Prescription Drugs by H. Winter Griffith M.D., Published by HP Books.SmokingSmoking depletes Vitamin C in the body, and therefore impairs healing. By restricting oxygen to the skin, smoking causes a yellow, sallow look to the skin. May cause comedones and fine wrinkles.
17the consultation card your health 6. Do you exercise regularly? 7. Do you follow a restricted diet?8. Do you wear contact lenses?9. Do you have metal implants or pacemaker?10.Rate your own level of stress on a scale of 1to 4 (1 = low stress, 4 = high stress). _________________________________Regular ExerciseUsually improves skin condition by assisting in stress reduction, as well as the stimulation of circulation and elimination. Lack of exercise calls for a more detoxifying, stimulation course of treatment.Restricted DietIf a client is on a highly-restricted diet or fasting, breakouts can occur as part of the detoxification process. Extremely low-fat diets can result in dry skin. Long-term fasting can stimulate breakout activity, and hormonal imbalance.Contact LensesUse extreme caution around the eye area for people wearing contact lenses. Do not apply pressure on or around the eyelid, or ask if they would prefer to remove their contact lenses prior to the treatment.Metal Implants or PacemakerMetal implants and pacemakers contraindicate the use of electrical current in any form. Use caution when using electrical currents around areas of piercing.Rating Stress LevelsOn a scale of 1-4 (1 = low stress, 4 = high stress) gives the skin therapist an improved understanding of degree of stress impact.
18the consultation card your skin 11. Do you have any special skin problems pertainingto your face or body? If yes, please specify __________________12. What skin care products are you currently using?face: soap cleanser toner moisturizermasque exfoliator eye productsbody: soap shower gel scrubs oil bodymoisturizer depilatory productsself tanners“Your skin” section helps you to find out how your client currently cares fortheir skin and what concerns them.11. Special problems that relate to your skin or bodyLet the client tell you about any special concerns they may have about their skin. Listen, and ask questions as to "why?" they have these concerns, particularly if you do not make the same observation about their skin. It is important to address their concerns in the treatment and provide solutions to their concerns.12. What types of skin care products are you currently using?Provides good indication to the level of skin care sophistication the client has. Are they a soap and water user? Or a more elaborate user of multiple department store products? Make product suggestions based on their current type of product usage, try to fill the gap.
19the consultation card exfoliation history 13. Have you ever had microdermabrasion, chemicalpeels or any resurfacing treatments?14. Do you use Accutane, Retin-A, Renova, Adapaleneor any other prescription skin products?15. Are you currently using any products that containthe following ingredients: glycolic acid lactic acid any exfoliatingscrubany hydroxy acid product vitamin A derivatives (i.e. retinol)Exfoliation HistoryThis is a highly important part to the initial consultation as clients are often undergoing procedures that can be quite invasive. If waxing, these questions should also be asked to the client. The main rule is that the skin must be healed and healthy at a normal skin thickness before any exfoliation should take place. It is important to know when they had the procedure, depth of the exfoliation and what was advised in regards to subsequent exfoliation treatments.Your script:13. Chemical PeelsAs these are a possible contraindication to exfoliation and waxing, assess the depth of the peel and invasiveness of the procedure. Even for lighter depth peels assess barrier function, hydration and thickness of the skin before deciding on treatment procedure. For medium to deep peels avoid exfoliation and waxing for at least 6-8 weeks and if in doubt check with the client’s Dermatologist.Laser and Dermabrasion are also highly invasive procedures and skin healing must take place. If the client says that he/she has undergone dermabrasion question further to see if they are referring to microdermabrasion. This exfoliates to the same level of most other hydroxy acid exfoliation techniques but check on sensitivity.14. Retin-AIncreases cell turnover leading to a more fragile skin and dries it out. The skin will lift off if traumatized by waxing, rubbing or peeling. Be very gentle with the skin. Renova is also a Vitamin A (Retinoic Acid) derivative which also thins the skin.Acne drugsAccutane or Adapalene. Question your client further as there are constantly new drugs on the market in this category. Refer to notes on "Medications.” Accutane is a prescription oral drug for cystic acne. It has similar, but more dramatic effects to Retin-A. Avoid waxing, peeling, rubbing or stimulating the skin. Antibiotics like Erythromycin, Minocycline, Doxycycline and Tetracycline are also prescribed for acne, possible side effects such as photosensitivity, upset stomach, dizziness and skin discoloration. Oral contraceptives are also prescribed for acne and may also lead to skin discoloration.Products that contain Hydroxy Acids or Vitamin A derivatives like Retinol, will also affect skin thickness, fragility and sensitivity. Ask about the percentage of active ingredient in the product and assess skin turgor before performing exfoliation or waxing treatments.15. One of the most prevalent problems experienced by clients is over-exfoliation, which can result in dry, over-sensitized skin and premature aging. Carefully check their existing exfoliation regimen, and recommend that they discontinue these products before beginning a Dermalogica exfoliation regimen.
20the consultation card moisture hydration 16. How much plain water do you consume daily?_____________17. How many alcoholic beverages do you consumeweekly? ___________________18. Do you ever experience these conditions on your skin? flakiness tightness obvious dryness19. What SPF sunscreen do you use on your face? _____body? _______20. Do you sunbathe or use tanning beds? yes noYour script:Moisture Hydration16. Water ConsumptionPLAIN water aids elimination and helps cleanse the skin internally. Flushes out impurities and hydrates the entire body. Recommend 8 x 8 ounce glasses per day.17. Alcoholic BeveragesCauses skin dryness and body dehydration.18. Flakiness, Tightness or Obvious DrynessClients experiencing flakiness, tightness and obvious dryness should increase their water intake, adjust to a richer moisturizer and use a moisturizing masque at least 3 times a week.19. Sun ProtectionAll clients should use a minimum SPF15 sunscreen over the face daily to prevent incidental sun damage. A sunblock should be applied to the body if sun exposure is anticipated, and the hands should always be protected by an SPF15 if they are exposed while driving in sunlight. Sun protection should be worn year round. Sun damage will cause premature aging, hyperpigmentation (age-spots), skin cancer, dryness and a thickening of the skin. Solar Defense System should be used year round to provide full sun block protection against damaging UVA and UVB rays. SPF used should be checked to ensure that your client is wearing the correct SPF and also question on ingredients, chemical vs. physical sunscreen agents should be noted if the client has a sensitivity to ingredients.20. Check whether the client uses tanning beds or tans regularly, as this may be the cause of significant sun damage.
21the consultation card capillary activity oil secretion 21. Do you burn easily in moderate sunlight?22. Do you blush easily when nervous?23. Do you have a tendency to redness?24. Do you suffer from sinus problems?oil secretion25. Do you ever experience oily shine during the day?26. Do you ever experience skin breakouts?Your script:Capillary activity21. BurningIf the client burns easily in moderate sunlight, Dermalogica’s daylight defense system takes advantage of several new advancements in technology to protect from harmful UV rays. Products like our Solar Defense Booster SPF30, Super Sensitive FaceBlock SPF30, Sheer Moisture or Sheer Tint Moisture SPF15 and MultiVitmain BodyBlock SPF20 must be worn daily to protect the skin. Increased sensitivity and irritation will also be a concern.22. BlushingBlushing easily indicates a more easily-flushed skin, with a tendency to show redness quickly. Treat as a sensitized skin and avoid excess friction or heat. Check for possible signs of early Rosacea.23. RednessTendency to redness indicates a naturally-high color, and a more easily-irritated, sensitized skin condition. Always check for red blotching around the neckline and collar line.24. Sinus ProblemsIf the client experiences sinus problems such as hay fever, post nasal drip, allergies etc., the skin will be sensitized.Oil Secretion25. Oily ShineOily shine may indicate overuse of exfoliants, dehydration and/or overactive sebaceous glands. Focus on home care products that can regulate oil production without stripping the skin’s natural moisture barrier. Evaluate how quickly their skin is producing oil and suggest oil reducing treatment products like Skin Refining Masque or Sebum Clearing Masque and Oil Control Lotion.26. Skin BreakoutsFor clients experiencing breakouts, check for comedogenic ingredients in their current skin and hair and body care regimens as well as their make-up. The answers from the “Your Health” section will indicate possible causes. Ask what type of breakout. Comedones? Milia? Pustules? Check which products they are using. Recommend Special Clearing Booster to speed drying and healing. Overnight Clearing Gel, applied overnight for under the surface congestion and comedones. Clearing Skin Wash to cleanse and treat inflamed breakouts and excessive sebum production.
22the consultation card nerve activity 27. Do you drink more than 4 caffeinated beverages daily?(coffee, tea, soft drinks)28. Do you ever experience a burning, itching sensation onyour skin?29. What is your pain threshold? low medium high30. Have you ever experienced claustrophobia?31. What type of massage pressure do you prefer light medium firm32. Have your ever had a reaction to any the following? cosmetics medicine iodine pollen food animals hydroxy acids fragrance sunscreensother___________________Your script:Nerve Activity27. Caffeinated BeveragesHigh levels of caffeine can increase skin sensitivity and blood circulation, reduces skin moisture levels and makes the client anxious during prolonged treatments. The client will also have a lower pain threshold. Caffeine is a natural diuretic. This will cause skin dehydration. It is a stimulant and can cause skin sensitivity, particularly to waxing, look for caffeine in teas, coffee, carbonated drinks and even some herbal teas.28. Burning or ItchingMay indicate the client may have environmentally sensitized skin. You should be very concerned about cosmetic allergies. We recommend doing a patch test on the inside arm with the exfoliating product you were planning to use and allowing them to try some Dermalogica samples at home, before undergoing a full treatment.29. Pain ThresholdThe client’s pain threshold will determine how firm you can be with massage and extractions and indicates their response to waxing. Check pressure and be aware when performing extractions.30. ClaustrophobiaClients who experience claustrophobia should never be wrapped tightly or have their arms wrapped. Never leave claustrophobic clients unattended during a treatment. Avoid enclosed masques such as Contour Masque, or any spa body therapy treatment where the client is wrapped in layers of spa wrappings (you may be able to leave one of the client’s arms out of the wrap to resolve the problem).31. Massage PressureAdapt your pressure to the client’s wishes. Add more Massage Cream to reduce friction. Add water to the Massage Cream in your hand to improve "slip and glide.”32. Allergic ReactionCheck the client's history of allergies which indicates their potential to be very sensitized. If in doubt as to client‘s suitability for treatments, do a patch test on the inside arm and let them try some samples of Dermalogica at home.CosmeticsEducate the client about comedogenic make-up and products. If the client marked “yes” to any of thefollowing, it will indicate heightened skin sensitivity:medicine – if topical medication, do not treat affected area.pollen – asthma, hay feverfood – allergies such as shell fish, wheat, peanutsanimals – pet danderIodine - Avoid full body seaweed wraps containing large amounts of iodine, such as Enzymatic SeaMud Pack.Hydroxy Acids - Avoid all products containing hydroxy acids.Fragrance - Counsel against products, especially personal fragrances and skin care products containing artificial fragrances (all Dermalogica products are free of artificial fragrances).Sunscreens - Recommend the use of physical sunscreen.
23the consultation card female clients only male clients only 33. Are you taking oral contraception?34. Are you pregnant or trying to become pregnant?35. Are you lactating?male clients only36. What is your current shaving system?37. Do you experience irritation from shaving?38. Do you experience ingrown hairs?Your script:Female Clients Only33. ContraceptivesCan cause pigmentation changes and acne type breakouts. Recommend Chroma White TRx system for areas of hyperpigmentation.34. PregnancyCan cause hyperpigmentation. Swelling (edema) in the skin can occur leading to an increase in sensitivity. Avoid electrical equipment.35. Lactation and breast feeding will mean possibly avoiding pressure and heat over the breast area also check with the client about the use of essential oils on the body.Male Clients OnlyShaving SystemWet or electric shaving systems need Daily Clean Scrub to clean the skin and exfoliate, and prep the beard, and Invigorating Shave Gel, Soothing Shave Cream or Close Shave Oil to provide a barrier of moisture between the razor and the skin, Multi-ActiveToner to soothe and hydrate the skin and a moisturizer to prevent dryness. Daily Defense Block SPF15 is ideal after shaving as a 2 in 1 moisturizer and sunscreen.37. Shaving IrritationIf irritation is experienced after shaving, check against the use of artificial fragrantaftershaves being applied afterwards. Continued use of such aftershaves can lead topigmentation over the face and neck areas. Recommend Pre-Shave Guard, Soothing Shave Cream or Close Shave Oil. Multi-Active Toner to refresh and hydrate followed by Dermalogica’s Post-Shave Balm, an ultra-soothing shaving remedy to combat any dryness or chafing.38. Ingrown HairsIf the male client experiences ingrown hairs after shaving, recommend Daily CleanScrub before shaving to lift the hairs away from the skin, followed by Post-Shave Balm with Salicylic Acid.
24the consultation card questions to discuss every visit 39. Are you currently having or due foryour menstrual period?40. Have your started any newmedication since your last visit?41. Have you had any recent dental x-rays?42. What are your skin care goals?Questions to discuss every visit:Your script:39. MenstruationSkin becomes sensitized around menstruation time. Swelling occurs. Advise the client of this before waxing, heat treatments or exfoliation.40. MedicationCertain medications can affect the skin condition especially Retin-A, Accutane, birth control pills, hormones, etc.41. Recent Dental X-RaysThis will shrink the sebaceous gland and cause temporary dryness of the skin. X-rays were used in the 1950’s as a treatment for acne but showed to be unsafe when patients who were greatly exposed to radiation developed throat cancer!42. What would your client like to achieve from the treatment today?Tells you if they want to be relaxed, fall asleep, energized, refreshed. It helps you to provide the client with the feelings they are looking for and this will ensure their return!
25treatment/product record datetreatment/products used in treatment/contraindications/notessamples giventherapistOn the back of the Dermalogica client consultation card, fill in any contraindications to any treatments for the client and make any professional observations. Ensure the client and therapist both sign the consultation card and remember to include the date. The client signs each time they come when you recap their health.There is also a “treatment and product record” and “samples given” part to the card. Record the date, the service given, the retail products that were purchased, any samples that were given and the name of the therapist that attended the client. This allows you to follow-up the service accurately and have complete information on the previous visits the client has made to the skin treatment center. When you recommend Dermalogica to your clients, ALWAYS complete the face map and prescription sheet with the client. Give the top copy to the client and staple the second copy to their client consultation card.Now that we are comfortable with the consultation card, let’s take a look at some of the skin types and skin conditions that the consultation will help us to determine.
26skin analysisBefore going on to the Face Mapping® skin analysis prescription sheet, your students will need to cover the basics of skin analysis, skin types vs. skin conditions.
27skin types vs. skin conditions let’s look at…Let’s review skin type vs. skin condition as Dermalogica is quite unique in how we address this.Instructor: At this point you will want to change it up a bit and write on white board the information below. It can also be given as a homework assignment. Students to look up and create their own glossary and share information the following day.SKIN TYPES SKIN DISORDERS SKIN CONDITIONSOily Acne SensitizedNormal/combination Psoriasis DehydratedLipid Dry Eczema Prematurely AgingSensitive Rosacea CongestedPhotodamagedPigmentationSkin type, GENETIC (can’t change just keep in balance) vs. skin condition which are the day to day fluctuations which one “feels” from day to day and determines general skin health (which we can change). i.e. For an oily skin type with congestion and sensitivity we would choose a cleanser and moisturizer for the skin type (oily). The boosters/specialities and a masque etc. address skin fluctuations on a daily, weekly or even yearly basis.The condition of the skin can change from season to season, climate to climate. Most skin conditions change according to our environment and lifestyle.A professional consultation and analysis is the key to using the appropriate products and ingredients to help correct and maintain a healthy skin.skin types vs. skin conditions
28contra-indications Herpes Simplex Impetigo Infected Acne Malignant melanomaAllergic reactionCuts/abrasionsOpen skin/bruisesThese are some of the most common reasons for not giving the treatment.Explain what the term “contraindicated” means: - a reason why they would not give the treatment.There are many contraindications, but if in doubt always check with a doctor who is the only person qualified to make a diagnosis.The more obvious reasons are: to avoid cross contamination, spread infections from one client to another or from client to therapist!Photos show: infected acne, open wound and herpes simplexInstructor: You will be covering Disorders/Diseases in:Milady Standard Fundamentals-Chapter 10Pivot Point Salon Fundamentals-Chapter 8
29feedbackWhat are some of the characteristics of the professional treatment room?How important is the consultation card to the success of the treatment?Review pages “the book”A brief oral review and or feedback session at the completion of each segment is a great way to motivate and stimulate student interest. By keeping each segment minutes prior to a workshop, demonstration or break, we stimulate more interest.Get students to give you feedback on what they have learned to date, review and give appropriate feedback.Quick Student Reference: Dermalogica – "the book" pagesInstructor refer to chapters in theory text that relate to consultation and analysis. Give appropriate homework assignment.
30understanding the skin treatment segment 2school programSegment 1This is your introduction to the Dermalogica segments you will be using as additional support material for a very important aspect of your curriculum. Every slide is scripted but as you become familiar with the material, you may add your own notes and comments.This segment outlines the material and introduces the Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis Consultation Card, step by step. You may choose to use only the slides that pertain to your curriculum plan for a particular day.A quick reference of each slide in the presentation is provided at the beginning of every segment. Times are noted in some instances, however, it will depend on your individual curriculums how much time you allot to each subject. You may use them as needed to review and reinforce learning.Quick Reference: CategoriesIntroduction: slides 1-4Course goals: slide 5Course outline: slides 6-10Core elements of a skin care treatment: slides 11-12What you will be using: Dermalogica Professional Product Line: slide 13The consultation card: slides 14-25Skin analysis, skin type vs. skin condition: slides 26 and 27Contraindications: slide 28Review and homework assignment: slide 29Instructor preparation and support:Milady's Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians: Chapter 13Pivot Point Fundamentals Esthetics: Chapters 9-10Dermalogica Classes: Dermalogica Live and The Dermalogica Skin Treatment
31preview-the skin treatment Each step in the treatment is unique and needs to be masteredWe will start out with an overview of each step and continue to expand on them as we progress in the courseIntroduce the course materials that will be available to them throughout the program.Text books, videos, Dermalogica Training Manual – “the book”Ask your students how many of them have had a professional skin care treatment? Get feedback about the experience.Were they comfortable throughout the treatment?How did their skin feel afterwards? Would they go back for another treatment?Every step in a treatment is unique, even the way the room is set up, bed, equipment, is very important. It is the first impression.Let’s take a look at the purpose of each step and its importance.Notes:
32room set up - preparation First ImpressionsWarm and inviting atmosphereSupplies and equipment in working order and on handCabinets clean and organizedFreshly laundered bedding, towels, and client garmentsFirst impressions: this is of course a picture of a professional treatment room, very clean, warm and inviting.Our goal here, while you are learning will be to create a similar environment for our clients.Discuss the school rules, protocols, and guidelines for maintaining a clean and safe environment.Take students to demonstration/workshop area - show supplies and equipment storage areas, laundry area.Demonstration - Preparation and set up of bed and lab/workshop area.Discuss or show how to set up bed, position and drape client, safety practices, must be picture perfect…assign partners, students to do short practice on bed set up, draping and positioning of bed, lowering and raising client, raising and lowering therapist chair, students rotate and change partners until they have worked on each person.Correct and encourage.Students should fill out consultation cards during first several days of school, so that you can collect, look over, and check if there are any potential problems. Show students where and how to file consultation cards.Notes:
33consultationGet to know your client and their concerns about their skinAscertain medical backgroundReview client’s current home regimenPrescribe effective skin care treatment and home careGo over the importance of the professional consultation system, extra details to mention are:Normally the most neglected part of the treatment, but it is a priority in order to ensure that the client is happy with their treatment and you have addressed their concerns.Ensures that treatments are carried out safely. Clients can easily sue without having signed the consultation card. They must always sign the card as this is the therapist’s professional protection.Produces a positive response from the client as they are being heard and are having your personal attention.Also makes the client focus on the treatment: skin health vs. a treat!Respect for the skincare therapist, through the education and insight they can provide about the client’s skin condition.Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis Prescription Sheet ties into treatment and subsequent home recommendations.Quick Student Reference: Dermalogica – “the book” pagesNotes:
34preparationEye and lip cleanse is performed with a mild cleanser for the delicate eye area3 small dampened cotton pads to apply and remove productRinse with damp sponges or warm steam towelOne of the first things you will learn is how to make the cotton pads from rolled cotton. They are convenient, sanitary and disposable. You may also use packaged cleansing pads.Eye and lip cleanse done with a mild cleanser will aid in protecting the delicate tissue in that area.The cotton pads will be made up ahead of time and dampened for ease of application and removal of product.You will rinse the area afterward with damp cotton pad or open new face sponges, which can also be used throughout the treatment.Notes:
35cleanse Cleanse twice Clean water is used for each cleanse First, to remove makeupSecond, oils and surface debrisClean water is used for each cleanseYou may choose to use a different cleanser once you have removed client’s makeupThe purpose of cleansing twice:The client may be wearing makeup which doesn't allow you to assess the skin clearly, and may lead you to choose a different cleanser.The purpose of the second cleanse is to remove dirt and debris from the skin.Questions to ask:How many of them cleanse twice? Ask them to add it to their home routines and discuss it the following day.How many sleep with makeup on?Reference: “the book” page (could use as a homework assignment)Notes:
36skin analysis To confirm visual observation – you will use: Face Mapping ® skin analysis techniqueMagnifying Lamp or headsetWood’s Lamp(if available)Your touch; feel for congestion, hot spots, texture, oiliness, etc.Once you have cleansed the skin, you will now be ready to observe and analyze the client’s skin in order to be able to determine the course of the treatment. The tools that you will be using:Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis technique – A technique that guides you through a thorough visual analysis of the client’s skin aided by…A magnifying lamp or headset which magnifies about 5 times the original size.Wood’s Lamp – optional, but very good to have in today’s practice.The most important tool that you will learn to use will be your touch. Feeling the texture and heat of each area of the skin.Quick Student Reference for Face Mapping® skin analysis: Dermalogica - “the book” pages or Dermalogica cheat sheet (back of manual).Notes:
37exfoliation To remove dead cells and increase cell turnover You have options – condition of client’s skin determines your choiceEnzymes – all skin conditionsAbrasive scrub – normal/combinationHydroxy acids – normal, oily, congested, sluggish orunderactive skin conditionsHydroxy acid/vitamin combination – dry, sun damaged,Webster’s dictionary:Exfoliate – to remove scales or splinters (from). To peel off in thin flakes, as in bark of a tree.The purpose of exfoliation in the professional treatment is to remove dead cells and prepare the skin for treating specific underlying conditions - with a few gentle grains or enzymes we may un-cap a clogged pore, loosen dead, dull cells, and smooth skin texture. The choice of professional exfoliants will depend on the condition of the clients’ skin.Abrasive scrubs are mechanical and work on the surface cells.Enzymes are biological catalysts that digest surface dead cells (examples are papain and bromelain).We will study the effects of hydroxy acids and vitamin therapies. They have revolutionized the skin care industry. Hydroxy acids dissolve the intercellular glue that holds dead cells together on the surface of the skin and speed up cell turnover. Vitamins work on a deeper level and help rebuild collagen and elastin.All skin conditions and types benefit from some form of exfoliation.*Clients that are using oral or topical medications that thin or sensitize the skin should not receive exfoliation treatments.Notes:
38extractions Performed on oily, congested, acne prone skin Steam – to aid in deep cleansingDesincrustation – to undo blockages, using galvanic current on – negative poleVacuum suction, galvanic and high frequency – to soften and prepare skin for extraction procedureAll of the steps above help prepare the skin for extractions which is a technique for removing debris from clogged pores, blackheads, and pimples.After we have removed the dead crust from the surface, we are then ready to soften hardened sebum within the follicle, this can be achieved by using steam from a vaporizator, and an alkaline solution (explain the skin is naturally acidic) of mineral salts and a natural foaming agent (saponaria). You could point out the equipment the students will be using during this step.Performing extractions properly is necessary to prevent scarring and pigmentation, so we will learn how to do them properly.Notes:
39massageThe massage technique used is based on client’s skin condition and needsStandard massage using effleurage, petrissage, tapotement and frictionDermalogica pressure point massageA clean skin paves the way for a massage which is usually considered by most clients to be the best part of the treatment. There are various techniques and methods and it is good to be proficient in several. Massage mediums will vary with your technique choice. One uses a creamy, rich massage cream which gives you slip and glide, or you may choose an oil-free massage medium.Introduce concept of alternative massage technique. While they are in school the student’s own skin may become a bit “sensitized” from practicing and learning on one another. You may also have several students who are sensitive and so present a condition that they can relate to.The Dermalogica Pressure Point Massage Technique is taught in the Dermalogica Touch Therapy series of classes. You may also use “the book” as reference. Page 199.You may choose to incorporate this technique before the students start taking clinic clients.Notes:
40concentratesConcentrates, complexes and serums contain ingredients to treat underlying skin conditions such as:Oily/acne-algae, zincDehydrated-glycolipids, hyaluronic acidAging skin/pigmentation- licorice, green tea, vitamin CSensitized skin-fumatory extract, lemon extract, coneflowerApplied under the masque and before moisturizerIontophoresis – on the + positive pole to aid in penetrationPulverized into the skin – Dr. LucasA concentrate, complex or serum is used to treat the underlying condition of the skin.During the course you will be learning the benefits of professional ingredients and the effect they have on improving the underlying skin conditions of the skin.To increase optimum benefits the serums are pressed into the skin and a masque applied over it. It may be used again under the moisturizer.Iontophoresis is employed by means of an electrical device called a galvanic or iontophoresis machine. Because the serums are acid based (as is the skin) and have a positive charge, they will be used on the positive pole.The Dr. Lucas is a hand held apparatus that emits a fine spray to rinse, hydrate and calm the skin. Serums, concentrates or herbal teas can be infused by the apparatus.Notes:
41masque To calm, hydrate, nourish and treat superficial dehydration Setting – clay baseNon-setting – cream or gelSpecialty – paraffin wax, colloidal oatmealA masque applied during the professional treatment has a specific action that will help you personalize the treatment. The ingredients are corrective and will leave the skin with a smooth and refined texture.A clay based masque will help control excess oil and breakouts.A cream base will be nourishing and may contain vitamin therapy.A gel base masque has ingredients that attract and bind moisture to the skin; it may be medicated and cooling.There are many specialty masques on the market now. Specialty masques are often used over a concentrate or serum that will address the underlying deeper problem (e.g. alipoid). So that you are treating the underlying condition at the same time. The new technology in ingredients and formulas allow the masques to play a more important role in the deeper layers. It is important that the manufacturer clearly explain the purpose of the masque and how it works.The masque is removed with warm steam towels or damp sponges.Notes:
42tone To rinse, condition, even out porosity of skin Pressure spray – from your skin care machineSpritz - manualDr. Lucas Pulverizer/Eco Spray – electric or portable emits fine spray to calm and hydrate client’s skinToning the skin after you have removed the masque will aid in re-hydrating the skin and help even out the porosity. You may use the pressure spray toner on the machine or spray from the bottle.Notes:
43boostersBoosters (retail) deliver daily treatment for client’s underlying skin conditionsImprove level of hydrationProtect barrier functionSlow down aging processImprove fine lines and wrinklesSun protectionSerums are professional use only and may be used under a moisturizer to complete the treatment.Boosters are recommended to the client to continue the benefits of the treatment at home.Show Face Mapping® skin analysis Prescription Sheet.Reference: also in “the book” pageNotes:
44moisturize/sunscreen Moisturizers seal and protect the skin’s natural moisture and are chosen according to skin condition or skin typeOil-free, oil based, oil controlling, humectant and anhydrousSunscreens contain chemical and/or physical ingredients to protect face and bodyEveryone should wear moisturizers and sunscreens to aid in protecting the skin.Ask how many students are wearing a sun screen? Do they think they should wear one every day?This is the final important step in the treatment, you would let the client know what you are using and why.Notes:
45reviewHow many times do we cleanse the client’s skin and for what purpose?What concept or tools do we use to determine the type of ingredients we should use within the treatment?What type of skin requires the use of a clay based setting masque?Please add any questions you want to incorporate at the end of this module.Make sure students understand the purpose for each step, this makes it much easier for them to choose the correct options for customizing the service.Answers to above review questions:We cleanse twice to ensure the client’s skin is free of make-up, surface oils and debris.A thorough consultation and Face Mapping® skin analysisAn oily, congested skin
46school program Segment 1 dermalogica live! professional use only This is your introduction to the Dermalogica segments you will be using as additional support material for a very important aspect of your curriculum. Every slide is scripted but as you become familiar with the material, you may add your own notes and comments.This segment outlines the material and introduces the Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis Consultation Card, step by step. You may choose to use only the slides that pertain to your curriculum plan for a particular day.A quick reference of each slide in the presentation is provided at the beginning of every segment. Times are noted in some instances, however, it will depend on your individual curriculums how much time you allot to each subject. You may use them as needed to review and reinforce learning.Quick Reference: CategoriesIntroduction: slides 1-4Course goals: slide 5Course outline: slides 6-10Core elements of a skin care treatment: slides 11-12What you will be using: Dermalogica Professional Product Line: slide 13The consultation card: slides 14-25Skin analysis, skin type vs. skin condition: slides 26 and 27Contraindications: slide 28Review and homework assignment: slide 29Instructor preparation and support:Milady's Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians: Chapter 13Pivot Point Fundamentals Esthetics: Chapters 9-10Dermalogica Classes: Dermalogica Live and The Dermalogica Skin Treatment
47retail and professional Cleansers: 32 ouncesPreCleanse: 16ozExfoliants/TonersSkin Prep Scrub, Daily Microfoliant: 6ozMulti-Active Toner : 16ozAntioxidant HydraMist andUltracalming™ Mist: 12ozMasqueIntensive Moisture Masque and MultiVitamin Power Recovery® Masque: 6ozMoisturizers: 4oz or 6ozThese are products that are both retail and professional.Students may reference the training manual as they progress through the course.Note:There are some items that are not used in the professional treatment and are retail only such as: The Clean Bar, Exfoliating Face Brush, Boosters, etc…The Dermalogica cleansers, toners, exfoliants (except Gentle Cream Exfoliant) and moisturizers all come in retail and professional sizes. There are only a few masques that are retail and professional, ie: Multipower Vitamin Power Recovery and Intensive Moisture Masque.)Retail product knowledge is taught in the pre - clinic segment: Part 2: Segment 5The Sponge Cloth can be used in the treatment by the therapist, but is usually not carried in an undergraduate school inventory.
48the importance of cleansing The basis of skin perfection and the skin care treatment is thorough cleansing. The skin must be cleansed thoroughly without overstimulation or disruption of the natural acid mantle.A successful cleansing routine must remove all the tinted make-up and debris from the skin’s surface, and gently remove dead cells.Ingredients should be formulated to effectively cleanse and purify, be non-stripping, water-soluble, easy to rinse, leaving the skin smooth and refreshed.Your Script: let’s begin with cleansers as that is a key step in treatments as well as home care.Why is it important for a cleanser to be water-soluble? So that it doesn’t leave a residue on the skin.Instructor, the next 2 slides cover Dermalogica’s PreCleanse.There may be information pertaining to how PreCleanse works that you would want to cover when you are teaching the theory chapter on Chemistry (solutes, suspensions, etc…) If so, you may “hide” the slide or skip over it.
49what happens when skin is cleansed? When we apply a cleanser, we generally use a gel-based, sudsy or milky cleanser. All contain surface active agents (or surfactants) that provide the primary cleansing action. During the initial cleansing process, surfactants emulsify the fat or lipid debris such as sebum, make-up, environmental hydrocarbons and sunscreens, allowing them to be solubilized in the rinse water. Meanwhile, the water-based portion of the cleanser solubilizes the water-soluble debris, namely sweat and some of the environmental pollutants.Considering the amount of material that potentially collects on skin, one might expect that the initial cleansing will only remove superficial debris and is certainly not adequate for a thorough cleansing. For this reason, The International Dermal Institute always recommends a second cleanse, or double cleanse, to thoroughly remove oils, dirt and grime from skin. However, our studies have shown that even if one performs a double cleanse with a water soluble cleanser, there still may be some oil-soluble substances left behind – particularly when cleansing an oily skin.Go through diagram on slide…To be most effective in removing all oil, one should use a similar substrate.In chemistry it is said that like attracts like. Fatty, oily substances are best solubilized in lipid solutions. An example of this is the capability of mineral oil (or baby oil) to readily dissolve all make-up and oil from the skin. The problem with using mineral oil is that it cannot be rinsed away with water. To remove the oil, an alcohol-based toner is required – but alcohol is not recommended for skin and is certainly not recommended for the eye area. Think back to when cold creams were first developed to remove heavier oil-based make-up. They had to be tissued off, and then alcohol toners were applied to remove the oily residue. Eventually, water-soluble cleansers were developed and the need for alcohol toners subsided.
50precleanse and the dermalogica double cleanse A light weight plant based cleansing oilDissolves surface oils and debris, emulsifies with water, rinses away oil and water soluble grimeEffectively removes oils, sunscreens, pollutants and cosmetics; gentle enough to remove eye make-upGreat for oily and sensitized skinWill not disrupt barrier lipidsProfessional size: 16 oz.Student reference “the book” pages Dermalogica PreCleanseAs a result of this research, The International Dermal Institute has developed Dermalogica's newest product that will revolutionize the double cleanse regimen: PreCleanse. This light, plant-based cleansing oil effectively liquefies sebum, oil-based make-up (including eye make-up, as it is gentle enough for use around the eyes), waterproof sunscreens and hydrocarbons from environmental pollutants without disturbing the natural barrier lipids. Only PreCleanse is formulated with plant-based oils that can melt the layers of oil-based debris on your skin as the oil molecules bond to each other, unlike the water molecules in your usual cleanser. These oils then emulsify when you add water to encapsulate and remove the trapped debris, allowing the recommended Dermalogica Cleanser to penetrate even further than before.PreCleanse is recommended for all skin conditions, and is ideal even for oily and acne-prone skin conditions. In fact, oilier skin conditions greatly benefit from PreCleanse, as it melts through sebum easily and without the use of surfactants that can strip the protective barrier or cause irritation.
51dermalogica cleansers Dermal Clay Cleanser – Contains oil-absorbing ingredients for oily, congested skin conditionsSpecial Cleansing Gel – A foaming gel cleanser formulated for all skin conditionsEssential Cleansing Solution – A milky creamy solution formulated for dry to ultra dry skin conditionsProfessional size: 32 oz.Your Script:Reference: Dermalogica - “the book” page 13-15Dermal Clay Cleanser - Creamy clay-based cleanser. To thoroughly cleanse and purify an oily skin with a creamy, cooling action. You may experience a hot/cold tingle like you get from the camphor.Special Cleansing Gel - Soap free foaming cleanser. Overcomes traditional problems of harsh drying soaps and is perfectly acid balanced. Explain to students how to foam up the Special Cleansing Gel. Dampen hands and dispense a dime size portion of cleanser into your hand, lather up to a nice foam and remove with a damp towel. You may also use these cleansers for your segment on pH testing.Essential Cleansing Solution - A milky creamy cleanser. It has a gentle cleansing action while nourishing even the driest skins. Designed to leave the skin smooth and supple.
52dermalogica cleansers Specialty cleansersUltra Calming™ Cleanser – Gentle cleansing gel-cream for extremely sensitive or sensitized skin conditionsClearing Skin Wash – Foaming antibacterial wash for acneic skin conditionsSkin Resurfacing Cleanser – A dual-action cleanser that smoothes and retexturizesTri-Active Cleanse – a triple action concentrated cleanser for hyperpigmented and uneven skin tones*Professional size: 16 oz.Soothing Eye Make-up Remover* – An oil and alcohol free gentle cleanser to remove makeup – all skin conditions*Professional size: 8 oz.Your Script:These Dermalogica cleansers are formulated for specific skin conditions.Ultra Calming Cleanser - This unique cleanser can be applied to the skin and removed with water, cotton or in some instances - tissue. Formulated for the most hypersensitive of skins that cannot tolerate even water. Reference “the book” page 16.Clearing Skin Wash - An antibacterial, soap-free, foaming facial wash. It deep cleanses while actively inhibiting bacteria that may contribute to acne and breakouts. Use only a nickel size amount and wash off thoroughly.Use on areas with breakouts.e.g.: a.) Acne skins b.) any skin experiencing occasional breakouts. Use only on the affected area. Ideal pre-menstrual treatment.The Clearing Skin Wash is part of the MediBac Clearing System™.Reference “the book” page 91.Skin Resurfacing Cleanser- A dual-action exfoliating cleanser containing lactic acid that smoothes, retexturizes and delivers ultra-clean skin. Use of this cleanser prepares skin for maximum penetration of AGE smart™ products.Reference “the book” page 108.Soothing Eye Make-up Remover – safe for use around the delicate eye area. Covered in Retail Section under eye treatments - Page 49.
53toneMultiActive Toner – An ultra light hydrating spritz for all skin conditionsUltra Calming™ Mist – An ultra calming spray that desensitizes while easing redness and stinging.*Professional size: 16oz.Antioxidant HydraMist – A refreshing antioxidant shield with flash-firming properties*Professional size: 12oz.Your Script:MultiActive Toner: Skin hydrating spritz. A fragrance-free blend used on all skin conditions. Completes the cleansing process and is the first stage of moisturizing. Evens out the porosity (no dry skin patches) of the skin and allows the moisturizer that follows to be absorbed evenly.Show the students how to use the spritz; face, throat, hair and body. May be used over make-up throughout the day. Perfect for men after shaving.Ingredients are active, protect client’s eyes when spraying.New! Ultra Calming Mist: Ultra calming spray to use at times when the skin feels dehydrated, irritated, warm, and sensitized. Spray over face, neck and chest with eyes closed.Can be used after epilation or exfoliation for soothing benefits.Reference: New training manualAntioxidant HydraMist: A refreshing antioxidant shield with flash-firming properties to improve skin texture, fight damaging free radicals and intensely hydrate alipoid, dehydrated skin. Part of the AGE Smart™ segment.Reference: “the book” page 109.
54what we’ll explore next Exfoliation choicesExtraction mediumsMassage mediumsCustomizationMasque therapyLet’s now explore these areas much like the steps of a professional treatment!Exfoliation – 6 choices and 10 different ways to use and mix!Extraction mediums – 2 products for safe hygienic extraction methodsMassage mediums – 9 choices (including complexes) countless ways to use and customizeCustomization – limitless options to bring aromatherapy experience into your treatmentsMasque therapy – 7 masques and numerous layering & mixing optionsNote:When a client is new to Dermalogica products, and also quite possibly to professional grade skin products, it is advisable to get them started on The Gray Line. You may prescribe a couple of segment products, but you should not begin them on the complete system as you may need to build up their personal skin tolerance with some of our active formulas. Also keep in mind there will be an adjustment period when the client may experience some breakouts and skin irregularity as the skin detoxifies and adjusts to the active ingredients found in Dermalogica.As you check in with your client and evaluate their skin’s response, you can then continue to adjust their routine as needed. The client may already be experiencing positive results and the entire system may not be required alternatively the skin may require more products from the system.Link: so let’s begin with exfoliation…
55professional exfoliation Biologically active exfoliants to smooth, refine and prepare the skin for absorptionYour Script:Skin exfoliation improves the texture and tone of all skins while preparing the skin for better absorption of treatment products.The human skin desquamates +/- 36 million dead cells a day (about 1 million every 40 minutes). You are all breathing in each others dead cells right now, and when you dust your furniture at home you are probably clearing up your friends! By the time you go from the bottom to the top of an escalator, you will have breathed in the entire body surface of the person in front of you! These dead cells can dull and dry the surface of the skin causing congestion and an uneven appearance.Dermalogica provides a range of professional exfoliants to suit client need and required level of exfoliation, in a gentle, but highly effective procedure.
56exfoliation The process of removing excess dead cells Allows for better penetration of treatment ingredientsEncourages new cell growthAn exfoliant is the medium used to smooth and even texture of the skinMay be physical or chemicalInstructor: This section is an overview and introduction to the exfoliation step in the core treatment - it will be covered in-depth in the segment that applies to advanced facial treatments.Your Script:Webster’s dictionary:Exfoliate - to remove scales or splinters (from). To peel off in thin flakes, as in bark of a tree.The exfoliation step paves the way for treating specific underlying conditions - with a few gentle grains or enzymes we may un-cap a clogged pore, loosen dead, dull cells, even skin texture…This can be achieved by mechanical (scrubs, micro-exfoliants, machines, abrasives) or chemical processes (enzymes, hydroxy acids).*Clients that are using oral or topical medications that thin or sensitize the skin should not receive exfoliation treatments.Student Reference: Dermalogica –“the book” pages – Greatinformation on formulating and the level system that is unique to Dermalogica.Slot in where pertinent.If you need more in depth training on exfoliation please sign up for the Dermalogica Skin Exfoliation and Resurfacing Techniques class.
57exfoliation All skin conditions Acne Dehydration Aging Skin PigmentationAsk the group: Why do we need to exfoliate the skin?Skin exfoliation improves the texture of all skins while preparing the skin for better absorption of treatment products. However, we have to be careful with this step and always work safely. The human skin sheds around 1 million skin cells every 40 minutes, that's 1.5 lbs. of dead skin a year, 36 million dead skin cells a day.Why is exfoliation important in the treatment room?Exfoliation is the one of the most important parts of the professional treatment where the client can see a visible improvement in their skin. Clients also seek out skin treatments for the type of exfoliation offered, think of the popularity of microdermabrasion and hydroxy acids.Which skin conditions benefit from exfoliation? All skin conditionsAcneIn acne, we know that there is an over-production of sebum and dead cells (about 5X more dead cells are produced). This binds together in the follicle causing a blockage. So what we have is retention hyperkeratosis, which is a common factor in acne. Hydroxy acids will do the job of the skin’s enzymes to dissolve the NMF and allow the cells to detachDehydrationLack of moisture in the Stratum Corneum leads to gaps in the cellular barrier. Moisture evaporates from below and we get a dehydrated skin. Clients attempt to overcome this by over-moisturizing - which is literally sticking the old cells down and this leads to a dull, uneven skin textureAging SkinCell production slows down as we age. So as the journey from the Stratum Germinativum to the Stratum Corneum takes longer, it means the cells are hanging around on the surface for a longer period of time getting drier and duller.PigmentationHydroxy acids will shed the pigmented cells more quickly, so are great combined with ingredients that suppress the melanin production. RESULT: more even skin color which also makes skin look younger.
58safety steps: contraindications and precautions Signed consultation is critical & always face mapLipid barrier must be intact – look for signs such as recent colds, caffeine, sensitivity, travel, low fat diets, exfoliation products at home. Check history of resurfacing treatments, chemical peels, etcDo not exfoliate highly sensitized, broken, injured, sunburned or recently waxed skin (24 hours)Prevent problems arising- can patch testDo not use on any clients who are taking Isotretinoin or have taken it in the past 6 monthsDo not use on clients who use Retin-A, Renova, Adapalene, Epiduo or any other medically prescribed topical acne products, they need to discontinue use for at least 2-4 weeksNever leave a client unattended and always remove thoroughly!Always apply and prescribe a sunscreen! No sun exposure for a week- SHOW AND TELL CONSULTATION CARD AS YOU GO THROUGH THIS.Precautions/Contraindications for all professional exfoliation - explain contraindication is -absolutely cannot do, and precaution is a warning/awareness to consider.A signed consultation card is critical to your safety and your clients safety. The majority of litigious action taken against PSTs is due to the exfoliation step. You must review contraindications with emphasis on checking, questioning and reading. Use Face Mapping skin analysis to back up what the consultation card tells you. If your client is new to professional exfoliation you must be cautious versus ambitious, safety should always be first with this step.Precaution/possible contraindication: Barrier Function, a simple cold that has caused the client to repeatedly wipe their nose thus causing slight trauma to the nose and lip area could result in a burn-like problem if it goes unchecked. High caffeine intake, diet pills, low fat diets, frequent travel, soap and water users will all likely be dehydrated and therefore an impaired lipid barrier. Medical resurfacing procedures, microdermabrasion, chemical peeps and what exfoliating products a client uses at home can all adversely affect your treatment. Rinse off immediately if product irritates skin. Mild tingling or stinging may occur and is normal and should dissipate quickly.Contraindication: Do not exfoliate if skin is sensitive, sun burned or irritated 48 hours before waxing or within 24 hours of waxing.Prevent problems - For MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant and EA35 we recommend that you perform a patch test prior to application if you are concerned about clients sensitivity or reactivity to a highly active product. Apply to a small, inconspicuous area (i.e. behind the ear) leave on for 10 minutes and remove with the Dermalogica Double Cleanse. Keep in mind that this isn’t 100% reliable as you are applying to the skin on the face which may have areas with impaired barrier function and many times a reaction takes time (i.e. 24 hours) to develop. Ensuring you have consent from the doctor (if in doubt) is the safest route.Contraindication Medically prescribed exfoliating products - These are mainly prescription drugs for the treatment of acne. They treat the condition of retention hyperkeratosis in the acneic skin by speeding up cell turnover, causing less blockages in the follicle. Isotretinoin (previously known as Accutane) has some generic versions, which some of your clients may be on or you may be familiar with: Claravis, Amnesteem and Sotret. Please remember that although we give a guideline of minimum 6 months, this will depend on the client’s skin – how long have they been on the product, what else they use on their skin, what other medications are they on etc. With regards to medically prescribed topical products such as the ones listed on the slide or Differin, Epiduo Gel (Differin and BPO) Ziana Gel (Tretinoin and Clindamycin), Tretinoin, Atralin, Avita, Refissa, Retin- A, Retin-A Micro, and Renova, the guideline is between 2-4 weeks after they have completed their prescription (depending on how long they have used their topical product, areas of use etc.)You will also need to perform a Face Mapping skin analysis to ensure you are taking the necessary precautions for both the exfoliation in the treatment room and home care regimen. Please remember that the first time you exfoliate, we recommend that you choose a mild form of exfoliation (such as Daily Microfoliant) and see how the skin responds. Remember to follow doctor’s orders first and ensure it is safe for the client to have exfoliation.Do not leave your client during a professional skin exfoliation - We should be with our client throughout the entire skin treatment. Follow direction and always remove thoroughly.Increase sensitivity to the sun - Hydroxy acids may increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sun exposure while using a product with hydroxy acids. Clients MUST wear Sunscreen, prescribe a minimum SPF30!
59dermalogica professional exfoliants Skin Prep ScrubDaily Microfoliant®Daily ResurfacerSkin Exfoliant SystemMultiVitamin Power ExfoliantExfoliant Accelerator 35OverviewThe great news is that Dermalogica provides a wide range of professional exfoliants to suit client needs and the required level of exfoliation, in a gentle but highly effective procedure. Dermalogica currently has 6 unique exfoliation products available for use in the professional skin treatment, but there are 10 different ways, if not more, in how you can use them.There is so much to choose from that there is no need to get bored in the treatment room with Dermalogica. The challenge every skin therapist faces is trying to determine which professional exfoliant is most suitable to meet their client’s needs and what is the relative strength of the products available to them.Skin Prep Scrub – *retail and professional -Corn Cob Meal with steam, with brushes, mixed into cleanser. A core favorite with clients and men.Daily Microfoliant® – *retail and professionalUnique and customizable, add MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant for a power boost or use steam and brushes.Daily Resurfacer – *retail and professionalA multi-purpose, leave on exfoliant that brightens, hydrates and improves overall skin tone.Skin Exfoliant System – professional onlyThe classic for oily, acne congested skin.MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant – professional onlyThe first vitamin, hydroxy acid combined exfoliant in an oil-base that allows for the medium to be massaged and moved over the client’s skin.Exfoliant Accelerator 35 – professional onlyThe ultimate addition to your exfoliation arsenal. Must be supervised.Link: let’s talk about each of these products in more detail…
60dermalogica exfoliants Professional and RetailSkin Prep Scrub –A skin polishing scrub exfoliant for all skin conditionsDaily Microfoliant® –A rice based enzyme powder gently microfoliates skin surface, for all skin conditionsProfessional size: 6 oz.*Except clients who have been using Retin A or Accutane.Your Script:Skin Prep Scrub in the professional treatment can be mixed with a Dermalogica cleanser and applied with a brush under steam – you may also use the mechanical brush (electric brush cleansing method) over the scrub. Remove with warm steam towel, damp sponges or wet cotton pads.Daily Microfoliant® - can be used on all skin conditions. Leaves skin smoother and brighter. In the professional treatment you may add 1 pump of Accelerator 35 or 1 tube of MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant to the paste prior to application for a “power” boost.Reference: “the book” pages 23,24.Instructor preparation and support:Dermalogica -“the book” pages Professional use only section.Dermalogica’s Skin Exfoliation and Resurfacing Techniques class.
61daily resurfacer Features Salicylic acid, sugar cane, hibiscus fruit extracts and bacillus ferment,Hyaluronic acid, rooibos tea and green teaBrightening complex: citrus unshiu peel and rice bran extractBenefitsGentle enough to use throughout the treatment to resurface, degrease and brighten the skinHow to Useall skin conditionsReference: “the book” page 25Daily ResurfacerAll skin conditions except users of medically-prescribed exfoliating productsDescription:Hydroxy Acids and Enzymes resurface and smoothe the skin’s surface as it stimulates exfoliation of cells.Benefits:It helps to reduce the signs of aging, premature-aging without causing redness. Preps the skin for conditioning with intensive humectants, antioxidants and brightening agents; minimizes fine lines and firms skin texture. A brightening complex helps to even skin tone while soothing Rooibos and Green Tea help skin retain moisture.Features or key ingredients:Salicylic acid: benefits: A beta hydroxy acid that dissolves excess epidermal cells to smooth skin.Sugar cane extract: benefits: Contains hydroxy acids that stimulate cell renewal, cell turnover and gently slough surface cells.Hibiscus Fruit Extract: benefits: A source of pyruvic acid, helps exfoliate skin while stimulating cell turnover and renewal.Rice extract: benefits: Extracted from rice kernel, rich in phytic acid that helps soften skin and aid in exfoliation.Hyaluronic Acid and GAGS: benefits: Glycosaminoglycans that hold up to 1000 times their weight in water, help to hydrate skin.Aspalathos linearis (Rooibus Tea) Extract: benefits: South African Red Bush contains antioxidants to protect skin. Used to treat acne, eczema, dermatitis and sunburn.Camellia sinensis (Green Tea) Extract: benefits: Source of polyphenol bioflavonoids that provide free radical protection to the skin.Citrus unshiu peel and rice extract: benefits: Brighteners help to even out skin tone and control hyper-pigmentation.Professional application and recommendations:As a degreaser after cleansing to remove any excess oil and debris from the skin prior to the professional exfoliation.After a Professional Masque application to remove residue.On clean skin at the end of each treatment prior to Multi-Active Toner or Soothing Protection Spray and Boosters as an introduction to the clients.Extra Tip:Can also be used as an alternative to Post Extraction Solution following extractions or for breakouts. This tip can be expressed to clients for home use.Show students how to do thisHold sponge applicator to top of Daily Resurfacer and dispense 1-2 pumps of the fluid on to the sponge by pressing down.Apply to entire face, but use caution around eye area to avoid getting into eyes.
62breakout-prone or skin with MediBac Clearing® line skin exfoliant systemFeaturesEnzymatic Base, Part A (powder base)Papain and bromelain enzymesAcidic Activator, Part B (liquid portion)Lactic and salicylic acid, sulfurBenefitsNon abrasive self neutralizing, professional strength exfoliation, 3 multipurpose ways to use!How to Usebreakout-prone or skin withexcess oil productionThe book page 100 Show and Tell – students get a better feel for how it should look…Instructor mix up and pass around -Skin Exfoliant System –Ideal for congested/oily/acne skins, except users of medically-prescribed exfoliating productsDescription:A two-part exfoliation system comprised of an enzyme powder base and a liquid acid activator. Skin ExfoliantSystem can be used as the peeling process in a professional treatment or offered as a series of peelingtreatments. If used as part of a regular skin treatment, do not use in conjunction with any other peel or exfoliant.Benefits:Gives visible results after one treatment but is gentle enough for frequent use. Provides a professional strengthexfoliation system that is non-abrasive and is even active enough for resistant skin conditions. Self-neutralizingaction. Series: 1 treatment per week for 6 weeks or 6 treatments at no more than 2 a week, no less than 1.Features or key ingredients: a pH of 3.4 – explain briefly what this means…Enzyme Base – Part APapain (papaya) and Bromelain (pineapple) enzymes at 7%Benefits: digest the protein of dead skin cells leaving the skin’s surface smooth and refined.Hydroxy Acid Activator – Part B10% Lactic acid, 2% Salicylic acid and 5% SulfurBenefits: gently helps to detach surface skin cells, stimulating new cell renewal. Sulfur aides in healing anddrying the lesions while killing bacteria.Professional application - there are 3 options to choose from: (save 2 & 3 for advanced students only)Mix 1 scoop of Part A Enzymatic Base with 1 tsp. of Part B Acidic Activator and apply with a brush, avoid theeyes, leave on for 10 minutes (under steam if more sensitive) rinse sponges and water. Customize with 4 dropsof MediBac Clearing Complex or 2 drops of Purifying Botanical Mixer. Great for clients with predominantlyinflamed lesions.Mix 1 scoop of Part A with 1 tsp. of Scaling Fluid to make an enzyme/alkaline base to prep for extractions,use under steam for 7 to 10 minutes or Galvanic on the negative pole may be performed for a minimum of 4minutes using cotton on the electrode that has been dampened with Scaling Fluid. Customize with 4 drops ofMediBac Clearing Complex or 2 drops of Purifying Botanical Mixer. Perfect for clients with comedones inaddition to inflamed lesions.Mix 1 scoop Part A Enzymatic Base with ¾ tsp. of Part B Acidic Activator, then customize with 3 pumps ofExfoliant Accelerator 35 to boost the effectiveness of the exfoliant. There is no need to customize with theMediBac Clearing Complex, but Purifying Botanical Mixer may be added. This is a great exfoliating treatmentfor a skin that is predominantly comedone prone.part of theMediBac Clearing® line
63multiVitamin power exfoliant FeaturesFruit, vegetable and flower oil baseRetinol, lactic acid and 15% salicylic acidOil-soluble form of vitamin CBioactivity score = 25BenefitsMaximum strength exfoliant in a lipid base, delivered in a single dose and re-sealable capsule. Achieves visible results on the skin.How To UsePage 65 and 120 – the bookMultiVitamin Power ExfoliantA professional exfoliant for aging, sun damaged, prematurely-aging and dry skins, except users ofmedically-prescribed exfoliating products. (keep in mind this is a very active product and barrier function must be checked!)Description:The first in the industry, a maximum strength exfoliant in a lipid base for optimum skin smoothnesswith minimum irritation. This power exfoliant effectively removes dulling superficial cell from theepidermis while providing the skin with a nourishing cocktail of vitamins, botanical extracts andconditioning agents. Improves skin’s elasticity, tone and texture.Benefits:Contains a high, more effective concentration of Salicylic Acid. BioActivity Score of 25. Unique lipidbase allows for massage application and maximum product penetration.Features: no pH as this is a lipid base (no water = anhydrous)Lactic Acid, Retinol and 15% Salicylic Acid:Benefits: removes dulling surface debris to help reverse the signs of environmentally-aged skin and brighten skin tone. Stimulates restoration of the lipid layer.Vitamin C, E and F:Benefits: as an emollient to enhance penetration, Vitamin E as antioxidant and Vitamin F for skin smoothness.Fruit, Vegetable and Flower Oil Base - Olive Oil, Sunflower Oil, Soybean Oil:Benefits: Condition, smooth and soothe the skinEssential oils of Lemon, Chamomile and Calendula:Benefits: Anti-inflammatoryInstructor: continued on next slide for professional application and removal.part of theAGE Smart® linedry, sun-damaged or prematurely-aging
64exfoliant accelerator 35 FeaturesLactic acid pH 3.2)Papaya juice (carica papaya) enzymesOlive leaf (olea europaea) extractBacillus fermentBenefitsProvides intense active exfoliation when used alone or use to customize other Dermalogica chemical exfoliantsPage 66 the bookExfoliant Accelerator 35For thick coarse, sun damaged or prematurely aging skin. (Extreme caution when used alone only).Description:A low pH (3.2) concentrate in a Chamomile Extract base contains skin smoothing ingredients including 30% Lactic acid, peptides and enzymes from bacteria, Papaya, plus fermentation enzymes to boost exfoliation. Exfoliant Accelerator 35 may be used undiluted as a highly active exfoliant or used to customize Dermalogica’s other chemical-based professional exfoliants.Benefits:Helps stimulate cell renewal and cell turnover rates to help smooth skin while improving texture and tone. Provides intense exfoliating leaving skin smooth and optimally prepped for subsequent treatment products. Allows for customization of professional exfoliation treatments.Features or key ingredients:Lactic Acid: benefits: a hydroxy acid that stimulates cell renewal and cell turnover. Brighten the skin, hydrates and stimulates synthesis of natural barrier lipids.Olive Leaf: benefits: with soothing polyphenols and antioxidant properties.Bacillis Ferment: benefits: one of the most innovative and interesting enzymes to know be used in professional exfoliation.Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate: benefits: an encapsulated peptide that competes with the desmosome connection between cells, weakening the connection and facilitating cell sloughing.Galactoarabian: benefits: a complex sugar molecule derived from the Larch Tree that stimulates the skin’s natural exfoliation process while enhancing AHA-induced exfoliation.Salix alba (Willow Bark): benefits: a natural source of the beta hydroxy acid, salicylic acid, that exfoliates superficial skin cells leaving a smoother texture and surface.Extra teachers notes on polyphenols:The skin damage produced by overexposure to sun rays and environmental stress is related to the destructive activity of free oxygen-related radicals produced by skin cells. Polyphenolic components of olive oil have been compared to traditional antioxidants, such as tocopherols, used by the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry to prevent skin damage. Results show polyphenols as having the highest activity as radical scavengers.thick coarse sun damaged skin21
65how to safely useCustomize by mixing with other Dermalogica chemical exfoliants:Daily Microfoliant® ½ tsp + 1 pump EA35Skin Exfoliant System scoop Enzymatic Base + ¾ tsp Acidic Activator + 3 pumps EA35MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant - 1 applicator MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant + 1 pump EA35Or use Exfoliant Accelerator 35 aloneReiterate that they should never leave client, always remove thoroughly and don’t over process. Check barrier function prior to any exfoliation step.Assure students always follow Manufacturers’ Instructions – must be supervised!!!Customize by mixing with other Dermalogica chemical exfoliantsDaily Microfoliant½ tsp. Daily Microfoliant (in wet hands) + 1 pump ¼ tsp. Exfoliant Accelerator 35. Massage over the face for 2-3 minutes and remove with water and sponges followed by a steam towel. No need to cleanse due to the surfactants in Daily Microfoliant.2. Skin Exfoliant System1 scoop Enzymatic Base + ¾ tsp. Acidic Activator + 3 pumps or ¾ tsp. Exfoliant Accelerator 35. There is less of a setting action when mixing these products which will help facilitate extractions a little further, this is advantageous for acneic and inflamed pustules as this is a much easier removal of the exfoliant. Automatic 10 minute shut-off time with Part A and B. When mixed with Scaling Fluid apply for a maximum 10 minutes under steam. Remove with a steam towel or sponges.3. MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant1 applicator tube of MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant + 1 pump or ¼ tsp. Exfoliant Accelerator 35. Use extra care around the mouth and eyes, an application of Colloidal Masque Base may be necessary to protect the area. Sensitive skin 3-5 minutes and coarse skin 4-7 minutes. Use the Dermalogica professional double cleanse for removal, 1st with PreCleanse followed by Special Cleansing Gel.4. Exfoliant Accelerator 35 Alone (with extreme caution)Protect eyes, nasal folds and lips with Colloidal Masque Base. 2 pumps and apply using spreading technique. Massage over the face after applying with your hands in the same way as MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant. Apply under steam to further soften the skin for 10 minutes maximum. Double cleanse for removal, 1st with PreCleanse followed by Special Cleansing Gel.Precautions:Does not mix with Skin Prep Scrub as this is not a chemical exfoliant.Do not mix more than 2 as we cannot guarantee the safety or the result. Use the recommended amount.Remove with the Dermalogica professional double cleanse if using MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant orExfoliant Accelerator 35 together or alone.Can be used around the eyes if mixed with Skin Exfoliant System, take extra care though due toits very fluid base it can enter the mucous membranes of the eyes and mouth quite easily.Link: with Dermalogica’s professional exfoliants its all about the Level System and the BioActivity Score…Have students compare bioactivity levels for homework.
66caution!Do not apply to highly sensitized, broken, injured, sun burned or recently waxed skin (24 hours)Do not use on any clients who are taking Accutane or have taken it in the past 6 monthsDo not use on clients who use Retin-A, Renova, Adapalene, Tazorac or any other medically prescribed exfoliating products, they need to discontinue use for at least 2-4 weeksOn your Dermalogica Consultation Card you will notice we ask the clientwhether they are using any medically prescribed exfoliating products. Theseare prescription drugs for the treatment of acne. They treat the condition ofretention hyperkeratosis in the acne skin by speeding up cell turnover, causingless blockages in the follicle.You need to always ensure your clients:Do not apply to highly sensitized, broken, injured, sun burned or recently waxed skin (24 hours).Do not use on any clients who are taking Accutane or have taken it in the past 6 months.Do not use on clients who use Retin-A, Renova, Adapalene, Tazorac or any other medically prescribed exfoliating products, they need to discontinue use for at least 2-4 weeks.Check barrier function, recent colds, history of cold sores and allergies.Check past history of resurfacing treatments and outcome.Prescribe a sunscreen! No sun exposure for a week.Client must sign and complete the consultation card!
67Questions? Let’s recap: Which skin conditions benefit from exfoliation?Name 2 contraindications to professional exfoliation?What are the steps for removing MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant?Which Dermalogica exfoliants are retail and professional use?Please feel free to add your own questions or create a quick quiz after each segment. You may only be covering one segment at a time so an interactive activity would be appropriate at this step.Let’s recap:all skin conditionsdo not use on highly sensitized skin, sun burned, broken, abrasions, etc… do not use on clients who are on medically prescribed Retinoids, etc…Use the double cleanse method to ensure that all of the MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant has been removed. 1) PreCleanse - 2) Special Cleansing GelSkin Prep Scrub, Daily Microfoliant, Daily Resurfacer
68extraction mediumsPre and post-solutions to provide the most hygienic and effective manual extraction techniqueExtraction mediumsOne of the most important steps to a treatment and one of the most difficult to do! But it is easy and hygienic with these formulas.Your Script:How many of you suffer from breakouts? Do you try to work on your own skin, trying to remove blackheads and pimples? What can we extract in the skin treatment center?Comedones and milia.But what would happen if we just went straight in and started squeezing the client’s skin without any preparation?Bruising, dilated capillaries, more breakouts and even scarring!This is precisely why we recommend that clients do not perform their own extractions.However, Dermalogica is aware that every client from the most sensitive to a prematurely aged client is not happy with their treatment until every blackhead is gone! Dermalogica has products that soften and prepare the skin for easing impurities from the skin.
69scaling fluid Features Benefits How to Use Natural herbal base of watercress, burdock, lemon, sage and ivy, saponaria officinalis, sodium saltsBenefitsDesincrustation solution that can be used in numerous ways to soften impacted sebum for easier hygienic extractionsHow to UseThe book page 74Instructor whip up and pass around to the class in addition to the actual product.Scaling FluidCongested areas of skin prone to comedones and prepare the skin for extractionsDescription:A clear, light fluid that provides a professional, thorough desincrustation. Softens keratinized protein and impacted sebum in the follicles. Designed to ease extraction work and purify the most asphyxiated skins.Benefits:Ideal for use on both comedones and milia. Ensures a professional desincrustation, without the drying and irritating effects of traditional alkaline sodas.Features or key ingredients:Natural herbal base of watercress, burdock, lemon, sage and ivyBenefits: provides a natural antiseptic alternative and is also soothing.Saponaria officinalis - Benefits: a natural cleanser, softens the skin.Sodium Salts - Benefits: allow Scaling Fluid to be ionized on the negative polarity of galvanic current for electrical desincrustation.Boardwork:DESIN - to undo, CRUSTATION – blockage.Professional application:Pour a small amount of Scaling Fluid (approximately ¼ teaspoon) into a small dish and mix with a dry Fan Masque Brush to a foamy consistency (similar to whisked egg white) to eliminate any dripping upon application. Demonstrate application on back of hand by ‘peaking’ onto the skin.Optional: One drop of Purifying Botanical Mixer can be added after fluid has been whipped up to customize.2. Apply foam to the areas of congestion with the Fan Masque Brush.3. Allow solution to activate and dissolve the impactions for 10 minutes under steam.Optional: Use Scaling Fluid with galvanic current on the negative polarity for 4 minutes. Also vacuum suction can be used to aide in cleansing and facilitate comedone removal.4. Tissue off excess, perform extractions, then rinse with warm water customized with the appropriate Dermalogica Botanical Mixer and sponges.congested skin, proneto comedonesAlkaliAcidSoftens the skinTightens the skinDilation of folliclesConstriction of folliclesSoftens impacted sebum
70right vs. wrong!!! extractions After steam/desincrustation/vacuum suction, the skin is prepared for the extraction of the comedones.Instructor: Talk about extraction technique, fingers should be parallel, stretch the skin, make a mound and ‘rock and roll’ those impactions out. Show wrapping of fingers with tissue. Pass out tissue box or use the tissues on the table and get students to wrap their fingers.Link: Discuss sterile procedures afterwards (Post Extraction Solution - kills propionibacterium acnes)…Your script:once we have completed our extractions we will want to continue to treat the skin by using a solution to help kill p.acnesright vs. wrong!!!
71post extraction solution The book page 75Post Extraction SolutionAreas of the skin where extractions have been performed.Description:A clear, liquid solution, which may have a slight natural yellow tint, that helps soothe inflamed, irritated skin while creating an antiseptic environment.Benefits:Medicates, decongests and purifies follicles. Speeds clearing of existing breakouts and prevents future breakouts. Eliminates P. Acnes. Reduces sebum production, redness and inflammation. Good to use on post-waxed skin.Features or key ingredients:Salicylic acid (Sodium salicylate) 0.5%Benefits: is antibacterial and helps to clear congested follicles.Tea treeBenefits: naturally antiseptic tea tree oil encapsulated in cyclodextrin aids in soothing and purifying skin while reducing comedones.Centipeda cunninghamiiBenefits: a plant extract, helps soothe inflamed and irritated skin.Additionally:Licorice and panthenol soothe irritation and aide in skin healing. Alginated zinc triplex (hydrolyzed algin and zinc sulfate) helps to kill bacteria, reduce sebum production and minimize irritation.Professional application:1. Remove remaining Scaling Fluid residue from skin with damp sponges.2. Complete the manual extraction portion of the skin treatment.3. Apply 1-2 pumps of solution to a dry cotton pad and apply to areas where extractions were performed.Additional information:Post Extraction Solution may be used prior to High Frequency, so long as the skin is dry before High Frequency procedure is performed. Alternatively may be applied to the skin post High Frequency procedure.FeaturesSalicylic Acid 0.5%, tea tree,centipeda cunninghamii, licorice, panthenol, alginated zinc triplexBenefitsDecongests the follicle, reduces sebum production helps eliminates p. acnesWhile promoting healing and reducing inflammationHow To Usecongested skin, proneto comedones
72recap What ingredients are used to prepare the skin for extractions? Can you use the scaling fluid without galvanic current? If you use galvanic, what polarity would you use and what is it called?What are the benefits of using the Post Extraction Solution after performing extractions?Saponaria Officianalis – a natural cleanser, softens the skin. Sodium Salts allows for ionizationto use without galvanic, apply on areas to be treated under steam for 10 minutes, if using galvanic, it would be on the negative polarity…desincrustationDecongest the follicle, helps kill bacteria, promotes healing.
73massage 1 Oil Free Massage 3 Additives 3 Botanical Mixers to 1 Massage Cream1 Oil Free Massage3 Additives3 Botanical Mixers tocustomize yourtreatment= 8 choices!Pass around. Encourage students to smell touch and feel.Let’s move on and talk about massage!There are a total of 8 different Dermalogica products that you can use for massage & to customize your Dermalogica skin treatment and create a new experience every time for your client, more importantly it allows you to target their various and constantly changing skin conditions.Link: So let’s look at our massage mediums in more detail…Just look at your choices!
74normal to dry skin conditions massage creamFeaturesEssential fatty acids, mallow, ivy, sambucus, cucumber and arnicaBenefitsWater-soluble, creamy formula melts, and liquefies on contact. Ideal for European massageHow to UseMassage mediums - The book pages 76-80Massage CreamAll skin conditions suited to European Massage, normal to dry skinDescription:This fragrance-free cream formula melts and liquefies on contact with the skin’s warmth. Massage Cream provides the ideal medium for facial massage (without mineral oils) ensures easy manipulations for the full treatment time without skin drag and is ideal for use with Dermalogica Complexes or Additives.Benefits:Non comedogenic with long lasting slip-and-glide without mineral oil. Dermalogica’s Massage Cream has a 50% safflower oil base for beautiful slip and glide but is COMPLETELY WATER-SOLUBLE!Features or key ingredients:Safflower oilBenefits: a rich source of essential fatty acids, for skin lubricity.Plant extracts of mallow, ivy, cucumber, sambucus and arnicaBenefits: soothe and moisturize, your skin is left feeling smooth and nourished but without a trace of residue.Professional application:1. Apply Massage Cream to the upper arms, shoulders, upper chest, throat and face. (About walnut size).2. Spread and proceed with the massage treatment technique.3. If more slip-and-glide is needed, simply add warm water to your hands and continue with the massage.4. Remove with warm water, a steam towel or sponges before the application of Dermalogica Complexes.Additionally: Additives may be applied prior to Massage Cream to customize and delivermaximum results.Link: So Massage Cream is the base that you would use for any European style massage that requires slip and glide on a normal to dry skin.normal to dry skin conditions
75additives Features Benefits How To Use Base of Hazelnut, Avocado, Wheatgerm Oil3 types:1. Revitalizing2. Clearing3. SoothingBenefitsBlend of essential oils that detoxify, oxygenate and hydrate the skin can be used for Aromatherapy and lymph drainage massage techniquesHow To UseAdditivesAll skin conditionsDescription:The Dermalogica Additives are comprised of a proprietary blend of essential oils in a vegetable oil base of Hazelnut, Avocado and Wheat Germ. They are completely pure and unadulterated. Packaged in aluminium to protect them from light and heat, a dropper top allows you to use approximately 6-10 drops for a whole face and throat.Benefits:The use of Dermalogica Additives during the treatment can help relax the client, detoxify the skin and relieve allergy stress. Essential oils detoxify, oxygenate and hydrate the skin. Their effect extends way beyond skin benefit by impacting the limbic system of the brain to evoke feelings of stimulation or sedation. As such, the use of Additives in the treatment provides a total mind, body experience. Ideal for all conditions requiring Aromatherapy Pressure Point Massage, Lymph Drainage Techniques and can be used with Dermalogica Massage Cream.Revitalizing Additive: Drier or prematurely-aging skinThis additive contains a blend of rosewood, cedarwood, orange, geranium and lavender to revitalize an aging or lacklustre skin condition. Rosewood oil is extremely hydrating. A concentrate that really revives the tissues, ideal for leathery or tired looking skin in need of a boost. Suitable for parchment thin skin in need of regeneration and gentle stimulation.Clearing Additive: Skin with excess oil production and breakoutsA lightweight blend rich in ylang-ylang, lavender, lemongrass, juniper, rosewood and sandalwood. A purifying and cleansing formula for skins that are congested or have breakouts. Allows the drier skin condition the benefit of a nourishing massage while cleansing impurities.Soothing Additive: Environmentally-sensitized skinA light essential oil blend rich in lavender, cypress, eucalyptus and sandalwood. For all the ‘S’s; Sensitivity, Smokers and Sinus. This blend will instantly clear sinus and improve respiratory allergies. Soothes sensitivity, redness and irritation.Professional application:1. Additives should be applied sparingly to skin. Use 6-10 drops pressed gently onto the skin.2. Apply Additive to skin for the Dermalogica Aromatherapy Pressure Point Massage prior to the main massage or as the primary massage and medium.3. Additives must not be rubbed, but rather pressed onto skin.Options:For Dermalogica Aromatherapy Pressure Point Massage, apply 6-10 drops.For European Massage, customize treatment by applying 6-10 drops to the skin prior to the use of Massage Cream.Apply 1-2 drops of Additive prior to the use of recommended Dermalogica Moisturizer for Aromatherapy.Link: what about oil-phobic clients?all skin conditions
76MediBac Clearing® line excess oil or breakouts oil free massageFeaturesNiacinamide, horse chestnut, yeast, panthenol, caffeine, licorice, sarcosine, camphorBenefitsA silky water-soluble, oil-free lavenderflower massage medium that purifies &calmsHow To UseOil Free MassageAll skin conditions, especially skin with breakouts and excess oil production.Description:A silky, water-soluble and oil-free massage medium fortified with calming lavender to provide long-lasting slip-and-glide while purifying skin and controlling sebum production.Benefits:Silky, oil-free fluid provides the perfect massage medium. Helps purify and calm skin. Ideal for oil-phobic clients, and clients experiencing breakouts and congestion.Features or key ingredients:Niacinamide, horse chestnut, yeast, panthenol and caffeineBenefits: regulate sebum and acneic skin conditions.Lavender extract baseBenefits: effectively calms and soothes.• Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)Benefits: provides additional moisturization and aids in healing.• Licorice, sarcosine and camphorBenefits: Licorice soothes irritation while sarcosine reduces sebum & inhibits lipase and Camphor is an anti-irritant, cooling and antibacterial.Professional application:1. Dispense 2 pumps into the palm of hand or a small mixing cup.2. Add 6 to 10 drops of Purifying Botanical Mixer and mix together.3. Rub between palms and fingertips and apply to skin using massage movements.4. Remove with a warm steam towel or sponges.Link: but what about customization…Part of theMediBac Clearing® lineexcess oil or breakouts
77hydroessential botanical mixers The book pages 81-84Hydroessentials - All skin conditionsDescription:An oil-free blend with active botanicals that are both powerful and aromatic. Botanical mixers are a truly amazing leap forward in the skin care industry with the discovery of Hydroessentials. With improvement in the molecular distillation process of essential oils, the water-soluble fractions of essential oils can now be separated, giving the same aromatic, powerful benefits as the traditional essential oils, without using solvents, surfactants or solubilizers. These botanical mixers are in a floral water base.Benefits:Can be blended into most Dermalogica products to customize treatments, intensify benefits, address specific skin concerns and or aroma therapeutic benefits. Completely water-soluble, making it easy to blend and remove from the skin. Ideal for skin intolerant of oil-based massage formulations. Can be used in Vac-Spray, Eco Spray or Dr. Lucas Pulverizer.Products- Features or key ingredients:Calming Botanical Mixer: Environmentally-sensitized and allergy prone skinsLavender extract and sandalwood oil which is calming, soothing and anti-inflammatory along with Eucalyptus which aids in respiration for allergy suffers.Purifying Botanical Mixer: For oily, congested, acne-prone skinsBalm mint extract which is soothing and purifying, lemon oil which is astringent and cleansing. It also contains lemongrass which is detoxifying and antibacterial along with ylang-ylang which is detoxifying and cleansing.Replenishing Botanical Mixer: Dry, dehydrated and mature skinsSandalwood extract which is calming and nourishing with lilac extract which is hydrating and revitalizing. It also contains sandalwood oil which is soothing and an emollient along with basil oil. Bitter orange extract adds natural fragrance.Professional application:1. Use directly on the skin for an oil-free aromatherapy massage, Dermalogica Pressure Point Massage, Lymphatic Drainage Massage or in the Dr. Lucas Pulverizer for an aromatic infusion.2. Mix 6-10 drops into recommended Dermalogica Cleanser, Skin Exfoliant System, Daily Microfoliant, Colloidal Masque Base or recommended Dermalogica Moisturizer just to name a few to intensify the effects of the products. (The BOOK says 5-10, we rounded to 6 to keep in uniform with Additives)Mix into cleansing water to create an aromatic water (after eye make-up removal) or use to customize steam towels.Other examples:Cleansing water (after eye make up removal)ExfoliantsToners (spritz into hand and mix in the botanical mixer of your choice)MoisturizersScaling FluidSteam towelsDirectly onto the skinLink: so let’s see how much we are learning so far…FeaturesFloral water base with hydroessential blends3 types:1. Calming2. Purifying3. ReplenishingBenefitsPowerful water-soluble, aromatherapy blends, to enhance performance and customize almost all treatment productsHow To Useall skin conditions
78recap How many choices do we have for massage? List all of the Dermalogica massage mediumsWhich Dermalogica massage medium is most suited for European massage techniques?What do we mean by water soluble?What are the properties of essential oils?How would you use the botanical mixers to customize your treatment?Note: Feel free to add your own questions to check that students are understanding how to use the massage mediums.Re-capThere are 8 choices for massageMassage Cream, Oil-Free Massage Base, Revitalizing, Clearing and Soothing additives, Calming, Replenishing and Purifying botanical mixers.activated by water and easily removed with warm water and steam towels.Essential oils hydrate, oxygenate and aid in detoxification.Botanical mixers can be used to customize treatment products, add to steam towels and treatment water, etc…
79complexes Benefits How to Use Concentrated highly active professional-use-only treatment products to treat underlying problems, correct skin concerns & intensify results4 choices - part of the skin concern segments, MediBac Clearing®,AGE Smart®, ChromaWhite TRX® , UltraCalmingTMHow to UseApply under treatment masques and moisturizersMix into some key productsPulverize onto the skinIonize with galvanic current on the positive polarityUse with pressure point massageUse 6-10 dropsInstructor make sure to encourage students to try Complexes as you speak about them. Even if your school does not carry all of them, students should know the importance of using them to maximize results in the treatment.In the treatment room having completed our massage and removed any excess product from the skin, we should continue to the masque stage of the treatment. This should involve using a complex beneath the masque to treat specific underlying problems.Serums and complexes are the modern equivalent to ampules. They deliver highly active ingredients without the issue once had with glass ampoules of usage of all product and danger from splinters of glass. These formulations are highly active while completely stable in a water-soluble base.All can be used with a Dr. Lucas Pulverizer (explain and show) and with Galvanic Current on the positive polarity to ensure maximum penetration. Key ones like the MediBac Clearing Complex can be mixed into the exfoliants andAdditionally the Dermalogica Professional Masque application is always a multilayer process consisting of Complexes as well as the masque, which we will talk about shortly.For Complexes we use about 6-10 drops per treatment.
80mediBac clearing® complex FeaturesA concentrated acne fighting professional serum to address the 4 factors of acneSalicylic acid exfoliates and clears impaction plugsNiacinamide, horse chestnut, yeast, panthenol & caffeine regulate sebumComfrey & licorice soothe irritated skinNordihydroguaiaretic acid slows cell proliferationZinc gluconate and caffeine inhibit bacteriaMedibac Clearing ComplexAcneic and breakout-prone skin.Description:A lightweight medicated treatment that penetrates deeply to treat the underlying causes of acne. This professional-use-only product clears congested follicles, regulates sebum production, soothes irritated skin and helps eliminate bacteria to promote skin clarity.Benefits:A medicated treatment product that clears follicles of congestion and promotes long-term follicle clarity. Regulates excess sebum production, soothes inflammation and helps eliminate bacteria. Product penetration may be enhanced when used in conjunction with galvanic current.Features or key ingredients:• Salicylic acidBenefits: sloughs off dead skin cells, helping to reduce congestion and prevent future breakouts.• Niacinamide, yeast extract, horse chestnut, panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) and caffeineBenefits: regulate sebum production, provide astringent properties to the skin and soothe inflammation.Comfrey & licoriceBenefits: soothe irritated skinNordihydroguaiaretic acidBenefits: Regulates cell proliferation and sebaceous activity by decreasing overall lipid formation.• Zinc gluconate and caffeineBenefits: regulate sebum production, help control bacterial and bacteria influenced inflammation.Professional application:1. Press 6 to 10 drops onto skin before applying Oil Control Lotion or prescribed Dermalogica moisturizer.Optional: Press 6 to 10 drops onto skin before applying MediBac Clearing Masque System. For increased product penetration perform Iontophoresis for 4-7 minutes with MediBac Clearing Complex under Colloidal Masque Base.acneic and breakout prone
81AGE Smart® complex Features A concentrated power rich professional serum to help reverse signs of agingArginine/Lysine Polypeptide fight AGEsSoy & White Tea inhibit (ROS, MMPs and AGEs)Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 stimulate collagen and elastin synthesisSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract stimulates wound healing, collagen and oxygen utilizationAGE Smart ComplexMature or prematurely-aging skinDescription:A highly-concentrated serum that smoothes skin texture and reinforces skin’s natural protective barrier while helping to prevent and correct the signs of aging well beyond the professional treatment.Benefits:Encoruages skin firmness and elasticity to help reduce the appearance of fine lines. Prevent the signs of aging caused by AGEs. Stimulates cell turnover and cell renewal without disturbing the skin’s pH balance. Product continues to work once client leave the treatment room.Features or key ingredients:Arginine/lysine polypeptideBenefits: Acts as a sugar trap, binding sugar to help prevent the formation of AGEs.Glycine soja (soybean) protein and camellia sinensis (white tea) leaf extractBenefits: are potent antioxidants that fights ROS (free radicals), reduces inflammation, inhibits collagen-degrading enzymes (MMPs) and inhibits the formation of AGEs.Palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide and palmitoyl tripeptide-5Benefits: are peptide molecules that condition skin while stimulating collagen and elastin production.Saccharomyces cerevisiae extractBenefits: an extract of Yeast, is a rich source of vitamins, enzymes and proteins that stimulate wound healing, collagen formation and increase oxygen utilization in cells.Professional application:1. Press 6 to 10 drops onto skin followed by 2 drops of Revitalizing Additive to perform Dermalogica’s Energizing Massage for the Face movements for 10 minutes.Optional: Additional AGE Smart Complex can be pressed into the skin prior to application of MultiVitamin Power Recovery Masque.mature orprematurely-aging
82ChromaWhite TRx® complex FeaturesA concentrated brightening professional serum to correct and control uneven pigmentationOligopeptide inhibits melanogenesisNiacinamide inhibits transfer of melanosomesZinc glycinate inhibits melanogenesisFerula foetida root extract slows enzyme activityPhytic acid chelates Cu++Palmaria palmata inhibits messenger protein that triggers melanogenesisLactobacillus enzymes stimulate natural exfoliationChromaWhite TRX ComplexSkin ConditionFor accelerated brightening and improved skin tone, for hyperpigmented skin.DescriptionA super-concentrated brightening treatment containing our exclusive blend of peptides, minerals and botanical extracts to deliver actives to targeted sites, brightening and improving clarity.BenefitsConcentrated brightening serum helps treat cellular discoloration.Key IngredientsOligopeptide-34 a proprietary peptide that reduces tyrosinase activity and melanosome transfer to cells.Zinc glycinate stimulates formation of an antioxidant protein that binds copper thereby inhibiting tyrosinase.Niacinamide inhibits transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes.Lactobacillius/citrus medica limonum peel ferment stimulates natural exfoliation to enhance skin clarity.Ferula feotida extract slows enzyme activity inhibiting melanin formation.Phytic acid chelates copper inhibiting step two of melanogenesis. Professional Application1. Press 6-10 drops onto skin.2. Apply an even layer of Contour Masque over face, neck and eye area.3. Additional ChromaWhite TRX Complex can be pressed into skin prior to moisturizer application.Optional:For increased penetration and results use with Galvanic Current on the negative polarity (2 minutes) and positive polarity (4 minutes).hyperpigmentedskin
83UltraCalming™ complex FeaturesHighly concentrated treatment serum to relieve sensitive, redness, itching and burning, it continues to work after the professional treatmentUltraCalming™ Complex reduces sensitivity, redness, and irritationSaccharomyces lysate extract repairs inflamed tissuesCaffeine reduces rednessPanthenol (pro-vitamin B5) aids skin repairSodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) and hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans maintain proper hydration levels of skinUltraCalming Complex (as an extra FYI this is a highly efficacious product and was actually previously designed to be retail)Description: A highly concentrated professional treatment that helps to relieve sensitivity, redness, itching and burning triggered by inflammation. This professional-use only product fortifies skin’s protective barrier and helps impede biochemical inflammatory triggers that lead to sensitized skin. BenefitsDelivers intense level of active ingredients to soothe and strengthen skin.Product continues to work once client leaves the treatment room.Product penetration may be enhanced when used in conjunction with Galvanic Current.Key IngredientsUltraCalming Complex: benefits: helps reduce sensitivity, redness, and irritation resulting from the multiple biological pathways that lead to inflammation.Saccharomyces lysate extract: benefits: Yeast extract, rich in actives that repair inflamed tissues and soothe irritated skin.Caffeine: benefits: Helps reduce redness by constricting capillariesPanthenol (pro-vitamin B5): benefits: aids in skin repair and hydration.Sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) and hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans: benefits: part of the dermal matrix, holds 1000 times its weight in water; helps maintain proper hydration levels of skin.Professional ApplicationPress 6 to 10 drops of UltraCalming Complex onto the skin.Apply Clinical Collodial Oatmeal over face, neck and eye area.Option: Additional UltraCalming Complex can be pressed into the skin prior to moisturizer application.Option: For increased penetration and results, use beneath Colloidal Masque Base and use Galvanic Current on the positive polarity (4-7 minutes). For clients with extreme sensitivity electrical modalities may be contraindicatedProfessional only 1 Fl. Oz./30 mLsensitized, reactive and recently resurfaced skin
84*Don’t forget! 6 oz. Intensive Moisture Masque professional masquesPlankton Masque BaseColloidal Masque BaseMultiVitamin Power Recovery® MasqueClinical Colloidal OatmealContour MasqueMediBac Clearing® Masque System*Don’t forget! 6 oz. Intensive Moisture MasqueInstructor make sure to pass around the professional masques as you talk about them.Dermalogica Masques provide essential therapeutic actions, incorporating complex formulas with the latest ingredient technology.Professional treatment masques are essential in giving the skin a powerful boost. The Dermalogica system is designed to work with complexes underlying and masques over the top. Any combination of masques complexes may be used such that you may treat EVERY problem that the client has.After all you may have a client with a dehydrated acne skin with pigmentation around the neck. In normal circumstances you may have to choose which problem to treat…not with Dermalogica! Every concern will be addressed.Also keep in mind that you can add your botanical mixers to further customize your masques.Link: now let’s talk about masques…
85masque therapy Features Plankton Masque Base Features Benefits Alginates from bladderwrack and marine plankton, bentonite and kaolin, grapefruit, zinc oxide, bisabolol, vitamin EBenefitsBalances sebum, purifying, detoxifying and deep cleansing clay formula removes dead skin cell debris and absorbs excess oilHow to UseColloidal Masque BaseFeaturesHyaluronic acid, mallow, ivy, cucumber, vitamins A and E, orange, sambucus, arnica and allantoinBenefitsCooling, hydrating, anti-inflammatory multipurpose masque that be used on eyes and lipsHow To UseYour Script:Plankton Masque Base – “the book” page 70.A clay-based masque designed to deep cleanse and purify an oily, congested skin with open follicles.Bladder wrack and Marine Plankton, a rich source of phosphorous which, helps to balance sebum production.Bentonite and Kaolin absorb excess sebum, while botanicals have an astringent and healing effect.Colloidal Masque Base – “the book” page 69.A cooling gel-based masque suitable for all dehydrated conditions.Hyaluronic Acid binds moisture to make this masque incredibly hydrating. Improves the skin’s ability to hold onto moisture as well as introducing supplementary moisture to the skin. Can be used with Extra Firming Booster underneath and galvanized onto the skin using the + pole for a firming, hydrating masque.
86multivitamin power recovery® masque FeaturesBeta glucan & algae extract, Essential fatty acidsvitamins A,C,E and B5, Licorice, comfrey and burdockBenefitsA powerful antioxidant masque to help skin recover from damage. Reduces inflammation, helps promote collagen and elastin production while promoting tissue repairHow To UseMultivitamin Power Recovery MasqueAll skins, especially mature or aging skins.Description:A powerful masque of concentrated antioxidant vitamins to help skin recover from damage while enhancing barrier properties and promoting healthy tissue regeneration.Benefits:Increases elasticity and aids in collagen synthesis, restoring suppleness. Antioxidant vitamins help repair daily damaged caused by ROS (free radicals) and botanicals help soothe and calm stressed skin.Features or key ingredients:Vitamins A, C, E, linoleic acid (vitamin f, an essential fatty acid) and panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)Benefits: help repair and restore damaged skin.Avena sativa (oat) kernel extractBenefits: acts as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizes, soothes and calms irritation.Beta-glucanBenefits: soothes irritation and enhances moisture barrier properties.Nutrient-rich algae extractBenefits: moisturizes and softens skin.Licorice root extract, comfrey root extract and burdock root extractBenefits: soothe and calm skin while decreasing sensitivity.Professional application1. Press several drops of AGE Smart Complex onto skin.2. Apply a thin, even layer of MultiVitamin Power Recovery Masque with a fan masque brush to face, neck and eye area.3. Cover face and neck with gauze that has been dampened with Antioxidant HydraMist, tenting over the nose and mouth area and apply Contour Masque with a spatula all over face and neck, even over the eye area for a soothing/firming eye and lip treatment. Leave the nostrils and mouth free, allowing client to breathe comfortably. Allow to set for 20 minutes.Optional: If it is required to limit the total treatment time to 60 minutes, this step can be simplified by applying AGE Smart Complex followed by MultiVitamin Power Recovery Masque. Remove after 10 minutes.Contraindications: client is not claustrophobic or highly anxious before applying Contour Masque.mature orprematurely-aging
87clinical colloidal oatmeal FeaturesPharmaceutical grade Colloidal OatmealBenefitsA super soothing, calming masque that helps boost the immune function of ultra sensitive skin. Relieves itching associated with eczema, helps to soothe skin rashes and irritation and can be used on eyes and lips.How To UseMix and pass around for students clinical colloidal oatmeal together with actual productDescription: A soothing, calming masque that helps boost the immune function of ultra-sensitive, irritated skin. When mixed with water, a creamy consistency develops that is ideal for gentle application.Benefits:Relieves itching associated with eczema.Helps to soothe skin rashes and irritation.Can be used on eyes and lips.Ideal for sun or wind-burned skin.Key ingredientsColloidal Oatmeal: pharmaceutical-grade; helps soothe irritated skin.Professional applicationPress 6-10 drops of UltraCalming Complex onto the skin.Mix approximately 1 to 2 scoops of Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal with a wooden spatula and warm water to form a smooth consistency apply with a fan masque brush in an even layer from forehead to neck. Include eye and lip area.Steam for 10 to 15 minutes. Steam will promote the qualities of the active ingredients and help keep the masque hydrated and prevent setting for easier removal.Loosen masque for easy removal and to avoid skin friction by spraying with a Dr Lucas Pulverizer or Eco Spray customized with 6-10 drops of Calming Botanical Mixer. Remove masque gently with a cool steam towel customized with Calming Botanical Mixer or The Sponge Cloth.optional: Mix with a 6 drops of Calming Botanical Mixer before applying to help soothe skin.professional only- 1 Fl. Oz./30 MlExtra teachers notes:Colloidal Oatmeal provides the following dermatological attributes:Anti-pruritic (anti-itching) skin protectant, relieves irritation and redness caused by exposure to harsh climatic conditions or certain skin conditions such as a general skin rash. Assists in relieving itching associated with Eczema eruptions and imparts a smooth feel to skin. Soothes sensitized skin and its lipids impart emollient properties. Soothes sunburn discomfort when used in a tepid bath and acts as a soap free cleanser. Can be used as a treatment masque on the face on areas requiring soothing anywhere on the body (i.e. sunburn, inside of arms). Use with a compress.sensitized, reactive and recently resurfaced skin
88contour masque Features Benefits How to Use Diatomaceous earth, calcium sulfate, grapefruit oil and alginBenefitsSetting masque, cooling & calming, reduces edema, infuses underlying product, firming, diatomaceous earthHow to UseMix and pass around for students together with actual productContour MasqueSensitized, mature, prematurely-aging skin in need of firming.Description:A loose powder rich in Calcium Sulfate and algae-derived Silica. Once mixed with water, it forms a smooth paste, which then sets and dries into a firm, rubbery sheet.Benefits:A setting rubber type masque that creates a vacuum over the skin thus enhancing penetration of underlying products. Wonderfully cooling and firming, reducing edema and inflammation, especially good around the eye area.Features or key ingredients:Diatomaceous EarthA porous pure form of silica from Algae. Absorbs up to four times its own weight in water.Grapefruit essential oil - is a phenomenal fruit extract rich in flavonoids and is a natural source of Vitamin C which helps repair mature, prematurely-aging skin.Professional application:To use first put tissues in a headband and ensure ears are covered. Place a damp gauze over complex and masque (Colloidal/Intensive Moisture Masque/MultiVitamin), a double layer over eyes. Then mix up about 1/3 of a packet of Contour Masque with cool water, to a stretchy paste (a little like cake icing/frosting; thin enough to spread, thick enough not to run. Apply to the face and neck with a wooden spatula, covering all areas except nostrils and mouth. Application should be even without any holes. Allow to set for minutes. Then remove in one sheet. Gently remove any residue with cool water and sponges.sensitized, mature orprematurely-aging
89mediBac clearing® masque FeaturesSalicylic acid removes impaction plugsSulfur kills bacteriaActivated charcoal adsorbs excess oils and impuritiesClays & diatomaceous earth absorb excess sebumNiacinamide, horse chestnut, yeast, panthenol& caffeine regulate sebumLicorice and panthenol soothe skin & aid in healingTea tree leaf oil and camphor are kill bacteriaBenefitsA two part medicated treatment masque that clears bacteria, reduces excess sebum & calms skinMix up masque and pass around to students.MediBac Clearing MasqueAcneic and breakout-prone skin.DescriptionA two-part medicated treatment masque comprised of a Sulfur and mineral clay-based powder to clear bacteria and help reduce excess sebum and a liquid base containing skin-calming botanicals to soothe irritation brought on by breakouts.Benefits:Addresses and controls the four factors that contribute to acne. Absorbs excess oil and refines skin texture. Purifies skin by eliminating bacteria associated with acne. Strengthens follicle membrane wall to help control inflammation associated with eruptions.Features or key ingredients:MediBac Clearing Masque - Part 1• Salicylic acid - Benefits: exfoliates dead skin cells and clears congested follicles to minimize future breakouts.Sulfur - Benefits: clears skin by eliminating bacteria associated with acne, clearing excess oil, congestion in the follicle.• Activated charcoal - Benefits: a natural skin purifier, helps absorb oils and impurities.• Diatomaceous earth and bentonite clays - Benefits: absorb excess sebum.MediBac Clearing Masque - Part 2Licorice, panthenol, camphor and tea tree - Benefits: hydrating panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) and licorice help soothe and calm skin along with camphor while tea tree oil is antiseptic helping to kill bacteria associated with acne. Professional application.1. Press 6-10 drops of MediBac Clearing Complex onto skin before applying masque.2. Mix 1 scoop of MediBac Clearing Masque - Part 1 with 1 scoop of water and 6 drops of MediBac Clearing Masque - Part 2.3. Customize with 1-2 drops of Purifying Botanical Mixer (optional).4. Apply to face and throat, or apply to the T-zone only. Avoid eye area.5. Remove after 10 minutes with sponges or steam towels customized with Purifying Botanical MixerOptional: spritz with Multi-Active Toner to rehydrate masque prior to removal with sponges or steam towel.acneic, prone tobreakout
90so let’s recap… Exfoliation choices Extraction mediums Massage mediums CustomizationMasque therapyWe have now explored these steps of a professional treatment! Go throiugh each step and ask students to recount as many of the options they can remember under each step. You may also want to make this an interactive activity where you break them up into groups, give each group a topic to report on.Instructions for group: list the options, key ingredients and how to use.ExfoliationExtraction mediumsMassage mediumsCustomizationMasque therapyLet’s look at your finishing touches of your treatment…
91tone, treat and protect Tone: Spritz, Dr. Lucas Pulverizer, Eco Spray Multi-Active TonerUltraCalmingTM MistAntioxidant HydraMistComplexesBotanical MixersTreat: Complexes, Boosters, introduce specializedretail products, eye careMultiVitamin Power FirmProtect:Professional size moisturizers,Solar Defense Booster SPF30Don’t forget!There are professional sizes of retail formulations and many professional only options to finish up your customized treatments…ToneOf course you have Multi-Active Toner and UltraCalming Mist, Antioxidant Hydramist which come in 16 oz professional size, you can further customize your treatments by utilizing Complexes, or Botanical Mixers and spritz or automize them on to the skin.TreatTreat underlying or key problems with Dermalogica Boosters, Complexes, speciality treatments like AGE Smart MAP 15, ChromaWhite TRx C-12, UltraCalming Serum Concentrate (professional size), AGE Smart Multivitamin Power Concentrate and then the fragile eye and lip area with AGE Smart MultiVitamin Power Firm.ProtectFinish with an application of your professional size moisturizer customized with Solar Defense Booster SPF30. Using professional size versions of retail products allows your clients to not only feel the products, but identify with the names and usage for their homecare regimen.
92questions?Remember you have a great support system with Dermalogica. Any questions concerning the ingredients are explained in “the book” under ingredients listing. There is also a pull out laminated product “cheat sheet” provided.Stay updated by using the training manuals and DVD’s that come with every new product launch. It is also important to attend Dermalogica classes and on tour classes held in your areas.Homework:Break students into study groups. Have groups create a list with abbreviations of each product so that it will be simple to remember and list on back of consultation card as products that were used in the treatment.Example: Essential Cleansing Solution – ECS, Skin Exfoliation System - SES
93The dermalogica skin treatment segment 4school programSegment 1This is your introduction to the Dermalogica segments you will be using as additional support material for a very important aspect of your curriculum. Every slide is scripted but as you become familiar with the material, you may add your own notes and comments.This segment outlines the material and introduces the Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis Consultation Card, step by step. You may choose to use only the slides that pertain to your curriculum plan for a particular day.A quick reference of each slide in the presentation is provided at the beginning of every segment. Times are noted in some instances, however, it will depend on your individual curriculums how much time you allot to each subject. You may use them as needed to review and reinforce learning.Quick Reference: CategoriesIntroduction: slides 1-4Course goals: slide 5Course outline: slides 6-10Core elements of a skin care treatment: slides 11-12What you will be using: Dermalogica Professional Product Line: slide 13The consultation card: slides 14-25Skin analysis, skin type vs. skin condition: slides 26 and 27Contraindications: slide 28Review and homework assignment: slide 29Instructor preparation and support:Milady's Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians: Chapter 13Pivot Point Fundamentals Esthetics: Chapters 9-10Dermalogica Classes: Dermalogica Live and The Dermalogica Skin Treatment
94the dermalogica skin treatment This treatment forms the foundation of Dermalogica’s selection of servicesIt is customized at every step by the skin care therapist based on the Face Mapping® skin analysisYou will be using the Face Mapping® skin analysis Consultation card to check for any skin or medical conditions that might contraindicate a product selectionThe Face Mapping® skin analysis Prescription Sheet is used to prescribe a customized Dermalogica home care regimen for your clientThe student may not comprehend in the beginning the importance of learning the “core” treatment. It is the classic system from which all of the steps (once learned) in the treatment will allow them to develop a customized service for all of their clients. Since you have already covered the “purpose” for each step, you will now be able to address what they will be using during practicals.Go through each point.Reference “the book” – pages
95face mapping® skin analysis and consultation Step 1Complete the card 15 minutes before treatment timeClient signature is criticalThe card is essential for the Face Mapping® skin analysis procedureExpectations and concerns are addressedHave complete demonstration bed and trolley set up as a visual.Get feed back from students concerning importance of time issues and preparing for each client in a timely and efficient manner.Questions to ask: Why do we need the client’s signature? Safety and liability issues. Card must be filled out by the client stating that all information given is true. What important information will we be able to use from the top portion of the card? Correct address/ allows us to confirm future appointments and build a client marketing base.
96cleanse eyes and lips Step 2 Prepare damp cotton pads to cleanse lip and eye areaSoothing Eye Make-up RemoverGentle cleansing, oil and alcohol free, conditions lashesPreCleanseFor waterproof and resistant makeupYour Script:Why would we use a different cleanser for the eye area? The skin surrounding the eye area is thinner and more delicate, therefore a more gentle cleansing product is more in line with maintaining the health of the area as well as having ingredients that condition the lashes.
97cleanse Step 3 The dermalogica double cleanse which begins with PreCleansea lightweight plant-based cleansing oilDissolves surface oils and debris then emulsifies when water is added to rinse away oil and water soluble grimeYour Script:Why is it necessary to cleanse the client’s skin twice? The first cleanse removes make up and the second cleanse (clean water) removes oil, grease and accumulated debris. How many drops of the botanical mixer would need to be added to our water or steam towels? Two to three added to water are sufficient to give a therapeutic and relaxing touch to the treatment.Student Reference: Dermalogica –“the book” pages
98cleanse Step 4 Perform the second cleanse with the appropriate Dermalogica cleanser for your client.Ultra Calming™ Cleanser, Essential Cleansing Solution, Special Cleansing Gel, Dermal Clay Cleanser or Medibac Clearing® Skin WashThese can also be customized with Dermalogica Botanical Mixers.Calming Botanical Mixer, Purifying Botanical Mixer and Replenishing Botanical Mixer, depending on client’s skin conditionThe second cleanse is performed using a fresh bowl of water that can be customized along with the appropriate cleanser for the client.
99cleanseStep 5 Remove all traces of cleanser with a warm steam towel, sponges or damp cotton pads, customizing your rinsing water with a Botanical Mixer.Refer to whichever items above you will be using to remove products.Warm steam towel method: Test heat of towel on inside of your forearm before applying.Sponges and cotton pads: Do not squeeze all of the moisture out, rotate and turn over as you work. Sponges can be given to client at end of service to take home.
100Step 6 A thorough skin analysis will aid you in customizing the treatment and linkdirectly to the prescriptionApply eye pads and use your magnifying lampDon’t be afraid to question and share your findings with the clientThere is a separate module for teaching this unique step. This is an added benefit to your course and will enhance the learning experience.You would have covered this in your workshops after you have covered the theory chapters in the state board text.General Analysis:Milady Chapter 11Pivot Point ChapterReference – “the book” – pages
101exfoliationStep 7Select the correct Dermalogica Professional ExfoliantDaily Microfoliant®, Skin Prep Scrub (can be mixed with cleanser) Skin Exfoliant System, MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant System or EA35You may also choose to add mechanical brush cleansing to this step. For extra deep cleansing use with Skin Prep Scrub (mixed with a cleanser) or Daily Microfoliant®You may not have covered this topic thoroughly yet, however you may choose the Dermalogica exfoliant you think the most appropriate for their first full treatment workshop.Skin Prep Scrub and Daily Microfoliant are for both retail and professional use.Skin Exfoliant System & MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant System are professional use only and students should see them demonstrated before they work on each other or clinic clients.Note Page 65 “the book” for exfoliation product selection and instructions.Exfoliation:Milady Chapter 12, 14Pivot Point Chapter 7,10Background reference for exfoliation:Dermalogica class: Skin Exfoliation and Resurfacing Techniques
102extractionsStep 8Scaling Fluid – whip up a small amount to a light foam usinga dry masque brush and apply to congested areas understeam for 10 minutesCarefully perform extractions, remove product with damp cotton pads or spongesApply small amount of Post Extraction Solution to cotton and wipe over the extracted area (if performing high frequency, use before applying Post Extraction Solution)Demonstrate the small amount of product to be used in a small plastic cup, pour just enough of the Scaling Fluid (1/8 of tsp.) whip up with a dry brush to a foam so that when applied to the skin it will not run. Eye pads should also be applied to protect the client.Question the students as to the pH of the product and how it softens and expands the pore to allow for ease in extraction procedure. If you have a galvanic machine, explain how this would be used with a – negative polarity to perform disincrustation.Milady Chapter 14Pivot Point Chapter 10
103massage Step 9 Perform classic massage or Dermalogica pressure point massage using a massage medium customizedfor the clientOil based system- Massage Cream, Soothing Additive, Clearing Additive or Revitalizing AdditiveSerums – UltraCalming™ Complex, MediBac Clearing® Complex, and AGE smart® ComplexYou may want to briefly review benefits of massage and classic movements (definitions).Remind students to link type of massage medium choice with observations on client card and analysis of skin condition.To customize European massage technique, 6-10 drops of chosen additive is pressed onto the skin prior to the use of the Massage Cream.Which skin conditions may be contraindicated to a European style massage technique that uses deep stroking and kneading movements? Oily, congested, sensitized – clients on which we use the “less rule”. Less heat, less pressure, less time, less product.Serums may be used for Pressure Point Massage technique.Quick Student Reference: Dermalogica “cheat” sheetsMassageMilady Chapter 13Pivot Point Chapter 10Instructor reference for Dermalogica Pressure Point massage technique:Dermalogica Touch Therapy ClassPressure Point Massage – “the book” page 199.
104massage Step 9 continued… Oil free massage - a silky water soluble medium that purifies and calms – customize withHydroessential botanical mixers -powerful water-soluble, aromatherapy blends: calming, purifying and replenishingOil Free MassageAll skin conditions, especially skin with breakouts and excess oil production.DescriptionA silky, water-soluble and oil-free massage medium fortified with calming Lavender to provide long-lasting slip-and-glide while purifying skin and controlling sebum production.Benefits• Silky, oil-free fluid provides the perfect massage medium.• Helps purify and calm skin.• Ideal for oil-phobic clients, and clients experiencing breakouts and congestion.Key Ingredients• Niacinamide, Horse Chestnut, Yeast, Panthenol and Caffeine regulate sebum and acneic skin conditions.Cinnamon Bark inhibits bacteria and acts as a natural astringent to regulate bacteria on skin.Lavender Extract base effectively calms and soothes.• Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) provides additional moisturization and aids in healing.• Licorice soothes irritationSarcosine reduces sebum & inhibits lipaseCamphor antibacterial, anti-irritant, coolingUsing in the treatment room1. Dispense 2 pumps into the palm of hand or a small mixing cup.2. Add 6 to 10 drops of Purifying Botanical Mixer and mix together.3. Rub between palms and fingertips and apply to skin using massage movements.4. Remove with a warm steam towel or sponges.
105serum application Step 10 Serums, complexes or concentrates correct and treatunderlying skin conditionsUltraCalming™ Serum Concentrate, MediBac Clearing® Complex, AGE smart® Complex and ChromaWhite TRx ComplexSerums may be used in combination with galvanic (+)current, under a masque or moisturizerSerums/complexes are used to treat and aid in correcting skin conditions that are suffering from hormonal imbalance, stress, pollution, etc. Since they are Professional Use Only, the corrective program would be followed up at home by client using Dermalogica Boosters as part of the daily regimen.Dermalogica product “cheat” sheetQuick Reference: AGE smart™ DVD and training manual (AGE smart™ Complex)Quick Reference: MediBac Clearing™ DVD and training manual (MediBac Clearing™ Complex)Ingredients and ElectricalMilady Chapter 7, 12, 16Pivot Point Chapter 7, 10
106masque Step 11 Apply the appropriate Dermalogica masque Colloidal Base Masque, Intensive Moisture Masque, Plankton Masque Base, Multivitamin Power Recovery® Masque, MediBac Clearing® Masque System, Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal Masque, or Contour MasqueRemove after minutes (allow an extra 10 minutes for a setting masque); Contour or the Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal masqueNote: While masque is on fill in Face Mapping® skin analysis Prescription SheetApplication and removal:How would they remove the masque? Steam towel, sponges or damp cotton pads.Masques are chosen based on the client’s needs and may be customized with the botanical mixers.Encourage students to fill in client card and prescription sheet with recommendations for home care.This would be a very important step to make sure they follow in workshops and carry over onto the clinic floor.Quick Student Reference: Dermalogica Cheat sheetPages Professional Use OnlyPages 34 – 37 RetailMasquesMilady Chapter 11Pivot Point Chapter 10
107tone/concentrated boosters Step 12Spritz the client’s skin with:Multi-Active Toner or UltraCalming™ MistStep 13Choose from a professionalserum or retail boosterExtra Firming BoosterSkin Hydrating BoosterSpecial Clearing BoosterGentle Soothing BoosterQuick Student Reference: Dermalogica product “cheat” sheet
108moisturize/eye care Step 14 Step 15 Apply suitable Dermalogica moisturizerActive MoistOil Control LotionSkin Smoothing CreamIntensive Moisture BalanceSuper Rich RepairSheer Tint Moisture SPF15Barrier RepairStep 15Extra care is needed toprotect the delicatearea around the eyeTotal Eye Care SPF15Intensive Eye RepairMultivitamin Power FirmAge Reversal Eye ComplexThese last 3 steps help replace natural protective barrier function of skin.Remind students to always talk to clients about the benefits of what they are using as this is part of a home regimen.Quick Student Reference:Moisturizers – “the book” pageEye Treatments – “the book” page 48-51Product “cheat” sheet
109daylight defenseStep 16Apply appropriate sun protection from Dermalogica’sDaylight Defense System:Solar Defense Booster spf30Oil Free Matte Block spf20Super Sensitive FaceBlock spf30Extra Rich FaceBlock spf30The importance of sun protection cannot be stressed enough. What are the differences between chemical and physical sunscreens?Chemical sunscreens protect against UV rays by absorbing them, and a physical sunscreen reflects them.Note: Step 17 in Skin Treatment is optional, client preference – the application of Dermalogica Treatment Foundation as the final step.Quick Student Reference: Dermalogica cheat sheetDaily Defense (Sun Protection) “the book” pageMilady Chapter 9,10 and 12Pivot Point Chapter 7,10Dermalogica Class: Sun, Skin and Smart Defense
110complete the face mapping® skin analysis prescription sheet and present to your client Once client is dressed, meet them at the tester unit and present your prescription for a customized home care programHand the client a mirror as you talk through so they may look at their skin!Follow through with every client regardless of whether they chose to purchase at that timeGive the client the original prescription and staple the copy to the consultation card for future referenceBook the follow-up appointment!It is important to have protocols for students to follow that mirror what happens in the professional environment. During your demonstrations go through every step as it is outlined and make a recommendation for the model you are using. Your students will do exactly the same and the upside is they will learn to master this all important step in their career!
111demonstration and workshop During your hands on practical you have handy guides to reference until you become confident in your Dermalogica techniques and product knowledgeThe Skin Treatment “cheat sheet”The Face Mapping® skin analysis “cheat sheet”The Product “cheat sheet”Note: They can be found in the back of your Dermalogicatraining manual – “the book”Procedure:Prepare bed set up (explain to students every step, even though they may have already practiced them before.Position and drape modelRemove eye and lip makeupCleanse twice (steam during second cleanse)Mix skin prep scrub with appropriate cleanser and apply with fan brushRemove with warm steam towelApply soothing additive, perform 10 minute demonstration of aromatherapy, pressure point techniqueApply colloidal masque (customize with appropriate botanical mixer). Complete face map prescription sheet, apply massage cream to shoulders, upper arms, massage while masque is on (5min)Remove with cotton pads or sponges, tone and apply appropriate moisturizer and protection. Please show finishing routine, post consultation and helping client up and out of chair. Proper clean up.
112school program Segment 1 live! retail segment 5 This is your introduction to the Dermalogica segments you will be using as additional support material for a very important aspect of your curriculum. Every slide is scripted but as you become familiar with the material, you may add your own notes and comments.This segment outlines the material and introduces the Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis Consultation Card, step by step. You may choose to use only the slides that pertain to your curriculum plan for a particular day.A quick reference of each slide in the presentation is provided at the beginning of every segment. Times are noted in some instances, however, it will depend on your individual curriculums how much time you allot to each subject. You may use them as needed to review and reinforce learning.Quick Reference: CategoriesIntroduction: slides 1-4Course goals: slide 5Course outline: slides 6-10Core elements of a skin care treatment: slides 11-12What you will be using: Dermalogica Professional Product Line: slide 13The consultation card: slides 14-25Skin analysis, skin type vs. skin condition: slides 26 and 27Contraindications: slide 28Review and homework assignment: slide 29Instructor preparation and support:Milady's Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians: Chapter 13Pivot Point Fundamentals Esthetics: Chapters 9-10Dermalogica Classes: Dermalogica Live and The Dermalogica Skin Treatment
113class content Overview: Concepts and the Grey Line Face Mapping® skin analysisSkin types and conditionsCleansersExfoliantsMasquesTonersConcentrated boostersTargeted treatmentsEye treatmentsMoisturizersSegmentation lines:Daylight DefensesystemMediBac Clearing®AGE Smart®Dermalogica ShaveChromaWhite TRx®UltraCalmingTMBody therapyThe Grey line is for maintenance, Segmentation line is for specific skin conditons. Note different colors for each segment.These are the retail components that are available – as you can see, there is a full range of professional treatment products to continue the clients skin treatments in the home so that they may get the best results possible. In addition to this overview, you have your Dermalogica training manual as an excellent resource.Read what will be covered from slideTeachers please take note of the following with regards to the segmentation lines and remember to mention to students:When a client is new to Dermalogica products, and also quite possibly to professional grade skin products, it is advisable to get them started on The Gray Line. You may prescribe a couple of segment products, but you should not begin them on the complete system as you may need to build up their personal skin tolerance with some of our active formulas. Also keep in mind there will be an adjustment period when the client may experience some breakouts and skin irregularity as the skin detoxifies and adjusts to the active ingredients found in Dermalogica.As you check in with your client and evaluate their skin’s response, you can then continue to adjust their routine as needed. The client may already be experiencing positive results and the entire system may not be required alternatively the skin may require more products from the system.
114User-friendly skin analysis for correct product prescription Designed by The International Dermal Institute to use exclusively with Dermalogica products and The Dermalogica Skin TreatmentUser-friendly skin analysis forcorrect product prescription14 different zones covering theface, neck and chestStudents should have copies of the Face Mapping skin analysis prescription sheets - refer them to look at it.Face Mapping skin analysis took the industry by storm! Never has a skin analysis been so personalized and thorough! Basically what we see (ask students to pick up their Face Mapping skin analysis prescription sheets), is that the face is divided into 14 different zones. The skin therapist goes through these zones very thoroughly to determine a customized Dermalogica skin care prescription for their client.Face Mapping skin analysis is a concept used only by Dermalogica. This concept has proven to not only help the therapist retain clients, develop more respect and trust, but also dramatically boosts retailing success.We want you to have a better understanding of Dermalogica’s products and which ones would be best suited for various skin conditions…Link: We will briefly re-cap skin types and skin conditions…
115skin type vs. skin condition Genetically determined,measured by the oil inthe skin or reactivityNormal/combinationAlipoidOilyAcneSensitive/RosaceaCaused by externalfactors, internal influencelike hormones, diet,lifestyle, stress, etc.DehydrationSensitizedAging/prematurePigmentationCongestion/breakoutsLet’s quickly review skin type vs. skin condition which will determine not only our home care regimen, but the treatment needs of the client.Now many of these types and conditions are very involved, we will get into them further as you progress through the course – this is an overview that is easily understood.Skin type refers to your genetic pre-disposition, what you have inherited from your family. Skin conditions occur as we go through various stages in our individual lives and the skin type is affected by external or internal factors.Briefly go through each one. Refer students to Chapters in their text book.MiLady text - Chapter 11 Skin Analysis
116Map your findings: skin condition let’s map!Map your findings: skin conditionb = breakout activityc = comedonesd = dilated capillariesdh = dehydrationm = miliap = pigmentationfl = fine linesdl = deep liness = sensitivityActivity: you will only need mirrors and prescription sheets…Students can Fill-in Face Mapping skin analysis prescription sheetsTake a good look in the mirror, follow the numbers in each zone and take a look at what you see on your own face, feel free to fill in the face map too. (Instructors briefly explain the letter codes on the Face Mapping skin analysis prescription sheet). Then, take a look at the person next to you.Instructor: move around room and ask a few people what they are seeing and have them tell the rest of the class.Now that you have completed your Face Mapping skin analysis, for the remainder of the class (as we go through the products) you can fill in the products that you have used as well as what zones you feel the need to use them in.
117dermalogica cleansers Your Script: questions you should ask your students.Why do we need to cleanse our skin? How often do we need to cleanse? Why do we need to cleanse our skin twice? Why do we need to cleanse our face in the morning?The following is great consumer information for students to pass on to clients.All of Dermalogica’s cleansers are water-soluble. They don’t leave a residue on theskin. They are quick and easy to use in the shower.There is 1 precleanser, 3 cleansers for the 3 skin types, plus 4 segment cleansers to target specific skin concerns or conditions. One to target acne skin disorders in the MediBac ClearingTM line, one for an environmentally sensitized skin, one for a skin concerned with signs of aging in our AGE smartTM line and the 2-in-one Daily Clean Scrub in the Shave line.The cleansers come in three sizes:1.7 oz. – 4 weeks8.0 oz. – 3 months16.0 oz. – 6 months*PreCleanse comes in 5.1fl ozWith all cleansers, you use a small amount with damp hands, use in a circular motion over the entire face and wash off with tepid water. Use twice a.m. and twice p.m. for professional results.These cleansers are suitable for all skin conditions because they have ingredients to soothe and calm a sensitized skin condition and ingredients to hydrate a dehydrated skin condition.Explain the size or amount they need to use of each product.All cleansers: use a quarter size amount EXCEPT –Special Cleansing Gel, Daily Clean Scrub and Clearing Skin Wash: use a dime sizeamount.All dermalogica cleansers are soap-free, completely water-soluble and acid balanced to purify thoroughly without stripping the skin's natural barrier lipids
118soothing eye make-up remover gently cleansing, oil and S.D. alcohol free. Conditions lashesBenefitsOil free, will not sting eyes or leave oily residue – gentle and cooling and is ideal for contact lens wearers. Conditions and strengthens eye lashesSoothing Eye Make-up Remover – categorized under ‘eye treatments’…very important to mention.For all skin conditionsDescription:An oil-free, S.D. alcohol-free and water-soluble gentle gel specially formulated to instantly dissolve all traces of eye and lip make-up, including stubborn mascara.Key selling points: won’t sting, irritate or leave an oily residue on the eyes. Ideal for contact lens wearers. Clean rinsing and helps to strengthen lashes.Features or key ingredientsSilk amino acids - Benefits: help to strengthen lashes and condition surrounding areas.Oil-free, S.D. alcohol-free - Benefits: allows for sting-free eye make-up removal, without dehydrating the delicate eye area.At-home Application:Apply a small amount of Soothing Eye Make-Up Remover to wet cotton.Remove eye and lip make-up by gently massaging over the area.Rinse thoroughly with warm water.For stubborn mascara and eye make-up, use full strength on a q-tip down over the lashes and across the eyelid. Then complete steps 1-2.Available sizes4 oz/120 mlall skin conditions
119(great for oily and sensitized skin) pre-cleanserPreCleanse - A light-weight plant-based cleansing oilDissolves surface oils and debris then emulsifies when water is added to rinse away oil and water-soluble grimeGentle enough to remove eye make-up; effectively removes oils, sunscreens, pollutants and cosmeticsWill not disrupt barrier lipidsall skin conditions(great for oily and sensitized skin)student reference: “the book” page 12PreCleanse: This light, plant-based cleansing oil effectively liquefies sebum, oil-based make-up (including eye make-up, as it is gentle enough for use around the eyes), waterproof sunscreens and hydrocarbons from environmental pollutants without disturbing the natural barrier lipids. Only PreCleanse is formulated with plant-based oils that can melt the layers of oil-based debris on your skin as the oil molecules bond to each other, unlike the water molecules in your usual cleanser. These oils then emulsify when you add water to encapsulate and remove the trapped debris, allowing the recommended Dermalogica Cleanser to penetrate even further than before.PreCleanse is recommended for all skin conditions, and is ideal even for oily and acne prone skin conditions. In fact, oilier skin conditions greatly benefit from PreCleanse, as it melts through sebum easily and without the use of surfactants that can strip the protective barrier or cause irritation.Instructor: If not done previously during the professional products class, you might refer to the chapter in the theory text books on chemistry (solutes, emulsions, etc…) Demonstrate the easy removal by applying lipstick or heavy eyeliner on the back of your hand –then work in small amount of PreCleanse – dampen hand and work over area, then rinse off. Cleanse again with any dermalogica cleanser.
120cleansing Dermal Clay Cleanser Special Cleansing Gel Student Reference: Dermalogica – “the book” pages 13 – 17.You may do show and tell “tester unit” (if available) or just review.Dermal Clay CleanserCreamy clay-based cleanser. To thoroughly cleanse and purify an oily skin with a creamy, cooling action. Contains purifying clays that are soothing, absorbent and cleansing. Watercress and Menthol to cool and calm the skin by having the properties of being anti-inflammatory. This cleanser will leave the skin feeling refreshed and revived. Expect to feel with the dermal clay a hot/cold tingle like toothpaste and from Menthol the hot cold essential oil. Explain that it’s like going out on a cold day - your skin when cold actually becomes hot.Special Cleansing GelSoap free foaming cleanser. Overcomes traditional problems of harsh drying soaps and is perfectly acid balanced. A rich foaming cleanser with a unique cooling action on the skin. Designed to thoroughly purify the skin without stripping natural moisture. Explain to students on how to foam up the Special Cleansing Gel. Demonstrate to students again how to foam up the Special Cleansing Gel. A little bit goes a long way. This is a good time to stress to students the amount of product they are using in the professional treatment. Professional products are very concentrated and the cleansers are water activated.Essential Cleansing SolutionA milky creamy cleanser. It has a gentle cleansing action while nourishing even the driest skins. Designed to leave the skin smooth and supple. Citrus Flower Extract Base begins the skin softening process in preparation for hydration. Safflower Oil Leaves the skin feeling smooth and supple. Hops, Rosemary, Horsetail and Pinecone aid in cell renewal and oxygenation.Ultra Calming CleanserThis unique cleanser can be applied to the skin and removed with water, cotton or in some instances can be tissued off of the skin. Formulated for the most hypersensitive of skins that cannot tolerate water. Apply to face and throat and massage with light upward movements. Cleanse twice daily.The Sponge ClothMade with biodegradable, bacteria-resistant fabric. The Sponge Cloth rinses clean and dries quickly. The cloth hardens when dry, and will soften again when moistened with warm water.Dermalogica also has 4 skin specific cleansers in their segment lines. Skin Resurfacing Cleanser in the AGE smart® Line, Clearing Skin Wash in the MediBac Clearing® line and Daily Clean Scrub in the SHAVE line. Newly added is the Tri-Active Cleanse for the ChromaWhilte TRx ® segment. We will talk about these later…Dermal Clay CleanserSpecial Cleansing GelEssential Cleansing SolutionUltraCalming CleanserThe Sponge Cloth
121recapWhich Dermalogica cleanser contains purifying clays to help balance an oily skin type?Which cleanser is used as the first step of the 2-part Dermalogica Double Cleanse?Essential Cleansing Solution contains moisturizing and stimulating ingredients, who should use this cleanser?Name three key benefits of Dermalogica cleansers.Fill in on your prescription sheet which cleanser you will use.Instructor: You may add additional questions to this brief review.The Dermalogica cleanser that contains purifying clays is the DermalClay Cleanser.PreCleanseDry or dehydrated skin conditions.All Dermalogica cleansers are 1) soap-free 2) water soluble and 3) acid-balanced to protect the skin’s natural barrier.Have students fill in which cleanser(s) they will use.
122exfoliantsStudent reference – “the book” pages 21-26Ask students how often cells renew or turn over? Try to work in some of the theory from the text on physiology of the skin.Dermalogica exfoliants prepare for optimum moisture absorption by aiding in cell renewal, smoothing and refining the skin’s surface
123dermalogica exfoliants Gentle Cream Exfoliant – hydroxy acid exfoliant masque*all skin conditionsSkin Prep Scrub – a gently abrasive exfoliant*except Retin A and Accutane usersExfoliating Face Brush – ultra-gentle brush works with your Dermalogica Cleanser to gently exfoliate dulling surface debris and impuritiesExfoliating is a very important step in the daily routine that further “conditions” the skin’s texture.To maintain healthy soft smooth skin, clients are recommended to exfoliate 2-3x per week. This will remove dead surface cells and smooth the texture of all skin conditions, except users of Retin-A and Accutane. A home care exfoliant should provide the ultimate clean skin surface without harsh drying.Gentle Cream Exfoliant: A gentle hydroxy acid exfoliant that also contains Fruit Enzymes (pineapple and papaya) that micro-exfoliate the surface of the skin in a non-abrasive method and improve smoothness and texture of all skin conditions. To help loosen and dissolve dead cells that clog the openings of the follicles. A white creamy masque type formula. Clients should use at least 2x per week.Do not use with exfoliating medications.Skin Prep Scrub: An abrasive exfoliant. Exfoliates the skin with a naturally mild action. Contains natural corn cob meal and botanical extracts to help prevent over stimulation of the skin. Can be combined with cleansers, to provide a quick, time saving power cleanse while showering.Exfoliating Face BrushUltra-gentle brush works with your Dermalogica Cleanser or Clean Bar to gently exfoliate dulling surface debris and impurities. Hygienic, quick-drying nylon bristles comes packaged in a convenient travel case. Can add to cleanser “power cleanse.” Use on its own with (water) damp hands.
124dermalogica exfoliants Daily Microfoliant®A daily microfoliator and skin brightener*all skin conditionsDaily ResurfacerResurfaces and smoothes skin surface as it stimulates the exfoliation of cells*Except users of Retin A and AccutaneRecommended for the client when a therapist is prescribing a home care regimen to help even out skin tone and address pigmentation problems; complements the professional treatment to get the desired results.Daily Microfoliant®: Uses a combination of exfoliants, both chemical and physical, in a unique Rice-Based Powder to microfoliate dulling debris and instantly leave the skin noticeably smoother and brighter. Overall pH is 4/5-5.5At-home Application:Perform the Dermalogica Double Cleanse with PreCleanse, followed by the recommended Dermalogica cleanser.Dispense approximately a half-teaspoon of Daily Microfoliant into very wet hands and create a creamy paste by rubbing hands together to dissolve most of the powder.Apply and massage over skin with small circular motions, avoiding the eye area.Massage gently for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.Follow with Multi-Active Toner, Antioxidant HydraMist or UltraCalming Mist.Daily Resurfacer: A leave-on combination of Hydroxy Acids, Enzymes and Botanical Extracts that instantly resurface and smooth skin. Botanical brighteners help even skin tone for improved clarity. The tin contains 35 doses to use in between professional treatments (4-6 week supply).We recommend that Daily Resurfacer be used once daily for best results. DailyResurfacer can be used as an ideal companion to Daily Microfoliant. UseDaily Microfoliant in the morning and Daily Resurfacer in the evening aftercleansing. There is no need to rinse or remove Daily Resurfacer. If client usesSkin Renewal Booster, this can be applied after Daily Microfoliant in themorning before or mixed with moisturizer and Daily Resurfacer used at night. Overall pH is 4.2.
125review of exfoliantsWhich Dermalogica leave-on exfoliant stimulates cell turnover and smoothes the skin surface?Which Dermalogica exfoliant contains corn cob meal?Name two key ingredients in Daily Microfoliant.®Which one did you choose for your program?Daily ResurfacerSkin Prep ScrubKey ingredients would include: rice bran and rice extracts, papain enzyme and salicylic acid.ActivityFurther questions – ask students how each product is applied and used at home.You can break them into groups and give each group a different exfoliant to report on.
126dermalogica masquesStudent Reference: Dermalogica – “the book” pages 34-37Masque TherapyEveryone’s skin care regimen can greatly be enhanced by regular use of a treatment masque. Masques have specific actions which reinforce the daily regimen and each masque has a different action on the skin. The actions of a masque are refining, revitalizing and nourishing. Depending on the formulation of the masque, they are used to give concentrated benefits to the skin which increase the action of those products that are used daily.While masques are not an everyday part of skin care, they are crucial for optimizing skin health. Depending on the skin, they may be used once, twice or three times a week. Leave on the skin for 10 minutes and remove with tepid water.Link: how many of you think your skin is lacking water? Feels tight?Regular use of treatment masques greatly enhances a daily regimen by providing extra nourishment, refinement and revitalization to the skin, solving specific problems to leave the skin radiantly healthy
127masques Skin Hydrating Masque – all skin conditions, dehydrated Bitter Orange, Cucumber, Mallow and ArnicaSkin Refining Masque –oily and acne-prone skin conditionsBentonite, Kaolin, Menthol and ZincIntensive Moisture Masque –oil dry skinsE.F.A.’s, Honey, Gingko Biloba, Safflower, Orange and Evening Primrose OilSkin Hydrating Masque: Water Based Gel Masque.Refresh stressed, dehydrated skin and restore suppleness with this cooling and soothing blend of botanical Bitter Orange, Hops, Rosemary and Horsetail. The oil-free gel formula is ideal even for the delicate eye area. To provide a moisture-rich gel masque which will supplement and hydrate a dehydrated skin. Cucumber extract imparts a cool action and an anti-inflammatory action on the tissues.Mallow - Soothing, healing, softening and pain easing to the skin.Arnica - Astringent, anti-inflammatory and soothing. All dehydrated skin conditions.At-home Application:Apply a smooth film to clean face and throat.Allow masque to absorb for 7-10 minutes.Rinse with tepid water or remove with The Sponge Cloth.Use Skin Hydrating Masque one or twice a week as recommended.Optional: Skin Hydrating Masque can be applied over the eyes and lips and used as an eye masque.Skin Refining Masque: Clay Based MasqueTo deep cleanse oily and congested skin. It is a clay based setting masque with a cleansing complex to absorb excess oils.Natural Zinc and Menthol - help to strengthen, heal and revive dull skin.Bentonite and Kaolin Clays - pull excess oils and impurities from the skin and deep-cleanse, to help reduce oily breakouts. Ideal for the T-zone. Oily skin conditions.At home application: Same as aboveIntensive Moisture Masque: Cream Based MasqueA creamy, nutrient-rich dose of essential fatty acids and moisture-binding Honey restores lost moisture to fine, dry lines during times of ultra-dryness.Ginkgo Biloba - Stimulates circulation, helping to revitalize dull skin. Replenishes lost oils and moisture after just one application.Honey and Essential Fatty Acids - Anti-inflammatory and humectant.Safflower, Orange and Evening Primrose Oil - Restore barrier function. Dry to ultra-dry skin conditions.At home application: same as above
128multi-active toner A soothing and refreshing, hydrating spritz Contains lavender, sodium PCA, aloe vera and balm mintHelps prepare skin for other Dermalogica products, helps even out porosity for optimal moisture absorptionall skin conditionsStudent reference - “the book” pages 18-20MultiActive Toner: Skin Hydrating Spritz. A fragrance-free liquid with a moisturizing complex blended into it, to refresh and hydrate all skin conditions. Completes the cleansing process and is the first stage of moisturizing. Evens out the porosity (no dry skin patches) of the skin and allows the moisturizer that follows to be absorbed evenly.Lavender, Balm Mint and Aloe Vera – soothe, calm and hydrate the skin.Show the students how to use the spritz; spray evenly over the face with eyes closed. May be used lightly over makeup throughout the day. Perfect for men after shaving.
129concentrated boosters Dermalogica's boosters are highly active concentrates to target specific skin concernsStudent Reference: Dermalogica – “the book” pages 38-42All can be applied directly to the skin and followed with moisturizer. Directions say a small dose as the formulas are a little thicker (can no longer indicate drops) The amount should be about the size of a little finger nail and is a measured amount from the dropper tip.
130dermalogica boosters Gentle Soothing Booster Extra Firming Booster An oil-free treatment of ultra soothing botanicals sensitized & irritated skinExtra Firming BoosterSuper concentrated firming fluidskin with fine, dry linesSkin Renewal BoosterAn exfoliating complex of hydroxy acidsall skin conditions – except users of Retin A and AccutaneSkin Hydrating BoosterA super hydrating fluid that hydrates and smoothesdry, alipoid skin conditionsInstructor, your school may not carry all of the boosters so go over briefly if time allows or when you are explaining specialty ingredients.Boosters treat the underlying problems that affect skin condition, they are specific and get immediate results for the client.Gentle Soothing Booster: Purpose is to provide a highly active soothing action to inflamed and irritated skin. Calms inflammation caused by shaving, windburn, sensitivity and acne.Red Raspberry Extract - soothing and non-stimulating and a natural antibiotic.Honey - A natural humectant and calming.Extra Firming Booster: Restores suppleness and diminishes appearance of fine lines. Increases surface firming and instantly revitalizes the skin.Wheat Proteins and Brown Seaweed - Provide surface-tightening actionVitamin C - Stimulates structural collagen.Skin Renewal Booster: Active Hydroxy acid concentrate stimulates cell renewal and increases cell turnover -Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid.Retinol - Delivered in a liposome system to target lower layers of the epidermis. Helpsto reverse photo-aging.Hibiscus - Rich source of Vitamin C and Pyruvic Acid enhances skin renewalSkin Hydrating Booster: Super-charged hydration for the most dehydrated skin conditions, this intensive moisture treatment revitalizes parched skin.Hyaluronic Acid - Optimizes hydration of tissues.Concentrated Panthenol - Aids in moisturizing and restoring tissue.
131targeted treatmentsStudent Reference: Dermalogica – “the book” page 43-44“Targeted Treatments” – was previously categorized as “Specialities.”In order to completely fulfil every skin care need, there is a necessity to have speciality treatment products. These treatments are designed to treat specific areas, not necessarily overall conditions. They are specialized products, with a unique job to perform. These are Dermalogica problem solvers and they are an indispensable part of every client’s skin care regime. How and when you use them will depend on your professional skin analysis.Targeted treatments perform a variety of "problem solving" with their highly specialized formulations, completing every skin care regimen by targeting areas that require a little extra attention
132climate controlProtects skin against damage from reactive ozone, protects skin from dehydrationMedium weight formula that reduces inflammation and redness.Anti-Ozonate Complex, Superoxide Dismutase, Shea Butter and Bisabolol.dry, sensitized & irritated skin, impaired barrier function and athletes-(swimmers, snowboarders etc.)Student reference – “the book” page 44Climate ControlProtects and repairs damaged skin due to climatic conditions or medication and will also relieve soreness, eczema and chapping. For application to face and lips. Protects against harsh environmental elements, absorbs gently, medium weight formula, anti-reddening, anti-inflammatory, non-drying, non-staining, does not bleach skin, no fragrance, 100% hypoallergenic, improves skin texture and improves overall complexion. Comes in a .75 oz push up stick.Anti-Ozonate Complex, Superoxide Dismutase and Hybrid Sunflower, Ozokerite, Shea Butter, Lecithin, Oat Extract and Bisabolol
133eye treatmentsStudent reference – “the book” pages 48-51Dermalogica eye treatments focus on moisturizing and replenishing critical oils around the eyes, helping to hydrate, restore firmness, retexturize, and protect against further environmental damage
134Ultra-rich nourishment, repairs and protects against free radicals total eye care spf15Reduces fine lines and puffiness, hides dark circles, physical sunblock spf15intensive eye repairUltra-rich nourishment, repairs and protects against free radicalsTotal Eye Care SPF15A rich cream with a smoothing Lactic Acid to re-texturize the eye area. Chemical free Titanium Dioxide gives a full sunblock with out irritation or stinging. Anti-inflammatory spiraea, hydrocotyl and bisabolol plant extracts help firm and reduce puffiness. Optical light diffusers reflect away from dark circles, leaving the eye area looking fresh and translucent. Gently pat a very small amount (grain of rice) around the entire eye area. Use daily.Intensive Eye RepairUltra-rich, non irritating cream. Provides intensive, nourishing moisturization for the skin around the delicate eye area. Combats dryness while diminishing the appearance of fine lines. Helps to soften and improve skin’s surface texture. Protects the eye area against dehydration, free radical damage and environmental influences. Apply pea size amount for both eyes and gently pat around the eye area. For drier skins use twice a day for normal, combination skins use Total Eye Care a.m. and Intensive Eye Repair p.m.
135moisturizersStudent Reference: Dermalogica – “the book” pages 27-33The importance of moisturizing is to protect and hydrate the skin. This is essential to prevent the drying effects of exposure, stress and imbalance. Dermalogica products are also combined with essential oils and botanical extracts to balance the skin’s level of hydration and to stimulate oxygenation and vitality.This information helps students explain value to clients if necessary.Comes in 3 sizes and will last:1. 1.7oz – 4 weeks2. 3.4oz – 3 months3. .75oz – (travel kit)Dermalogica's moisturizers contain powerful plant extracts, essential oils and antioxidant vitamins to hydrate, repair and protect the skin against the drying effects of environmental exposure, pollution and stress
136moisturizers Active Moist Oily Skin Smoothing Cream Normal/Dry Purpose is to give daily protection and hydration without excess oily lubrication. Easy to apply oil-free moisturizer.Contains silk amino acids to give glide to the product without oils, and to texturize and heal the skin.Contains Lemon, Watercress and Cucumber to actually refine oil production.Calming allantoin makes Active Moist a soothing and purifying protectant.Apply this over damp face and throat with light, upward strokes. Should be used after Multi-Active Toner and over a booster for additional benefits. Great for men, teenagers and a great sport moisturizer.Skin Smoothing CreamTo maintain the skin’s moisture balance while improving skin texture and elasticity. To provide the ultimate day protection and the perfect night time treatment in a medium weight, active cream.Nourishes the skin with plant extracts and soluble proteins.Contains silk Amino Acids and Egg Oil for skin smoothing and healing benefits.Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate without making the skin oily.Vitamins C & E to fight free radicals (ROS) Reactive Oxygen Species.Apply this over damp face and throat with light, upward strokes. Should be used after Multi-Active Toner and perfect for dehydrated, combination or selective oil-dry clients or when an oil free moisturizer isn’t quite enough.Intensive Moisture BalanceProvides penetrating moisturization and effective antioxidant benefits to an ultra dry skin. Helps to firm and strengthen the skin while diminishing the appearance of fine lines and skin damage. Helps to protect dry skin against the effects of dehydration, free radical damage and environmental influences.Formulated in a rose floral base to hydrate the skin while combating dryness.Stabilized Vitamin C within efficient, liposomal delivery system, is capable of penetrating the deepest layers of skin, helping to smooth the appearance of dry lines & skin damage, while stimulating collagen synthesis.Antioxidant enzyme Superoxide Dismutase, Vitamins A & E, Ginkgo Biloba help repair free radical damage.The anti-enzyme properties of Coneflower, Hydrocotyl and Grapeseed Extract, combined with Wild Yam, help prevent the breakdown of the skin’s integral structure, leaving skin firm and smooth.An amazing treatment moisturizer formulated to isolate and restore many skin problems and concerns for the client who has a mature/premature/photodamaged/oil dry skin.Sheer Tint Moisture SPF15A convenient three in one product: A lightweight, oil-free moisturizer, a sheer color wash and sun protection all in one. Walnut Seed provides a rich source of bioflavonoids that scavenge free radicals. Panthenol and Dimethicone reinforce the barrier properties and maintain hydration levels. Comes in light, medium and dark shades.Sheer Moisture SPF15Is the untinted version that has all the same properties as sheer tint moisture minus the color.Barrier RepairVelvet moisturizer that melts on contact with the skin. Invisible barrier to prevent trans-epidermal water loss and allergen invasion.Evening Primrose Oil, Bisabolol, Vitamin E and C in a pure silicone base. Hydrates and protects.Client is directed to apply only a few drops to a cleansed skin. For severe sensitivity/redness, Gentle Soothing Booster can be applied before Barrier Repair. Use twice daily.26Skin Smoothing Cream Normal/DryIntensive Moisture Balance DrySheer Tint Moisture SPF Any Skin ConditionSheer Moisture SPF Any Skin ConditionSheer tint Redness Relief SPF Visible Redness
137daylight defense system Student Reference: Dermalogica - “the book” pagesDermalogica offers 10 different products for sun protection.The Dermalogica Daylight Defense System is comprised of formulations that provide an invisible shield against UVA and UVB rays while working with each skin condition to improve its overall appearance and health.Reference your theory chapters on photodamage:Milady; Chapter 11 the Fitzpatrick scale and Chapter 12- Product selection; the SPF factor.Pivot Point Salon Fundamentals: Chapter 7 –Cosmetic products and ingredients and chapter10-Facial Care SPFDermalogica class: Sun, Skin and Smart Defense and the Solar training manual and DVD.
138daylight defense Oil Free Matte Block SPF20 Show daylight defense display unit…The daylight defense system line up of products consists of 10 products.After Sun Repair – All skin conditions This treatment balm helps repair recent UV damage while instantly soothing overexposed skin.Oil Free Matte Block SPF20 – Skins prone to excess oil production/breakouts 2-in-1! Maintain an all-day matte finish while protecting skin against ultraviolet rays with this ultra-sheer, weightless lotion.Super Sensitive FaceBlock SPF30 – Environmentally-sensitized skins 2-in-1! Soothe skin commonly irritated by sun protection ingredients with this chemical-free sunscreen featuring mineral UV-blockers.Extra Rich FaceBlock SPF30 - Chronically dry/prematurely-aging skin 2-in-1! A ultra-emollient, nourishing moisturizer and superior sunscreen in one formula.Ultra Sensitive FaceBlock SPF25 - Dry and environmentally-sensitized skin A super-emollient moisturizer free of chemical sunscreens to protect against moisture loss while giving the skin a natural wash of color.Solar Defense Booster SPF30 – All skin conditions Add full-spectrum protection to your moisturizer or foundation by mixing equal parts, or use alone for an SPF30.MultiVitamin BodyBlock SPF20 – All skin conditions, especially prematurely-aging skin Treat areas prone to aging while blocking damaging UV rays with this sunscreen and body moisturizer.WaterBlock Solar Spray SPF30 – All skin conditions Quickly mist on very water resistant (up to 80 minutes) sunscreen for an invisible full-body shield against damaging UV rays.Solar Defense Wipes SPF15 – All skin conditions Towelettes of our renowned sunscreen technology make for truly take-anywhere sun protection.Solar Shield SPF15 – All skin conditions Ultra-waterproof protection in a convenient stick form provides a sunscreen and moisture shield for the lips, ears and nose.Oil Free Matte Block SPF20provides matte finish while protectingSuper Sensitive FaceBlock SPF30soothe and protectExtraRich FaceBlock SPF30nourish and protectUltra Sensitive FaceBlock SPF25tinted super emollientSolar Defense Booster SPF30ultimate customizationMultiVitamin BodyBlock SPF20treat and protect the bodyWaterBlock Solar Spray SPF30water resistant protection, kids and athletesSolar Defense Wipes SPF15portable, versatile towelettesSolar Shield SPF15waterproof protection in a stick, lips, ears and noseAfter Sun Repairtreatment balm to repair sunburned skin
139review Should everyone use a moisturizer? What is the purpose? Which moisturizer is oil-free and recommended for men, teenagers and as a sports moisturizer?Which Dermalogica gray line moisturizer contains a sun screen?Q and AMoisturizers should be used by everyone, regardless of skin condition.They help to protect the skin’s natural defenses against theenvironment while controlling moisture loss from the skin.Active MoistSheer Tint Moisture SPF15 or Sheer Moisture SPF15That’s Dermalogica’s Gray line, an amazing array of products with cosmeceutical ingredients to help maintain the health and wellness of the skin. But since it doesn’t stop there, let’s begin with MediBac Clearing® for acne, the first of Dermalogica segmentation lines for specific skin conditions.
140Fill out your home care program MorningCleanserTonerBoosterMoisturizerEye treatmentSun ProtectionEveningCleanserExfoliantMasqueTonerMoisturizer(other)Use this time to have students complete their facemap prescription sheet… they should fill in daily and weekly use…this is very good practice for them.
141mediBac clearingTM mediBac clearing® designed to be layered onto the skin for maximum results…. 24 hours a day a complete professional & retail systemmediBac clearing®Segmentation lineStudent Reference: “the book” pages 88-98Introducing Dermalogica’s MediBac Clearing® ProductsMany of the products prescribed for clients with acne or oily skin are often created for teens and are too harsh and irritating for daily use on more mature adult skin. Dermalogica initially addressed the need for less irritating yet effective acne treatment products in 1998 with the introduction of Anti-Bac Skin Wash, Skin Purifying Wipes and Oil Control Lotion, and again in 2001 with the introduction of Post Extraction Solution (professional use only), Anti-Bac Cooling Masque, Medicated Clearing Gel and Sebum Control Serum (professional use only). Over the years, The International Dermal Institute has continued to do research on acne and the ingredients and technology available to treat this skin condition.Instructor – this segment may be taught or reviewed when you are covering skin disorders and diseases and advanced topics chapters in your state board curriculum.retail products
142mediBac clearing®designed to be layered onto the skin for maximum results…. 24 hours a day a complete professional & retail systemDermalogica’s MediBac Clearing® products are a twenty-four hour treatment system formulated specifically to treat adult acne using state-of-the-art technology that addresses the specific factors involved with acne. Each product, with its unique acne-clearing ingredients, is designed to be layered onto the skin to provide maximum control of the factors that contribute to acne.New PackagingGreen color band clearly identifies MediBac Clearing® productsNew professional label format to assist therapist in the treatment room142
143mediBac clearing® Clearing Skin Wash Skin Purifying Wipes Foaming cleanser to clear awayexcess oil without stripping the skinSalicylic Acid, Licorice, Calendula, TeaTree,Golden Seal, Camphor and MentholSkin Purifying WipesHygienic, quick cleansing wipes that purify and remove excess oilBalm Mint, Coneflower, Camphor, Witch Hazel and Salicylic AcidClearing Skin WashA non-irritating, naturally-foaming cleanser that is the perfect start to around-the-clock control of breakouts, comedones, and excess surface oils.BenefitsNaturally-foaming cleanser clears away excess oil without stripping skin. Synergistic combination of anti-acne botanicals and Salicylic Acid help clear congested skin. Soothing botanicals help calm inflamed, irritated skin. Helps prevent future breakouts.Key IngredientsSalicylic Acid aids in clearing congested follicles and removing impaction plugs.Licorice, Chamomile, Burdock, Milk Thistle (silymarin) are anti-inflammatoryCalendula promotes healingTea tree - antiseptic, antimicrobialSkin Purifying Wipes (reformulated to reflect new ingredients)DescriptionHygienic, quick-cleansing wipes that help purify skin while removing excess surface oil and impurities. Witch Hazel helps keep skin clean and fresh, and the convenient pack goes everywhere, making it perfect for travel, office, gym, and outdoor enthusiasts.Provides antibacterial protection to the skin’s surface to help prevent future breakouts.May be used after cleansing or during the day to remove oil and keep skin fresh.Salicylic Acid stimulates natural exfoliation, helping to clear impacted follicles and minimize acne formation.Botanical extracts of Balm Mint, Coneflower and Camphor purify and soothe irritated skin while Witch Hazel refreshes.1. Lift tab to open.2. Remove a wipe.3. Apply over face, back or other oily areas after cleansing and throughout the day as a hygienic touch-up.4. Reseal label tab to prevent wipes from drying.
144mediBac clearing® Sebum Clearing Masque A cooling, refining masque that purifies and helps prevent breakoutsSalicylic Acid, Niacinamide, Yeast Extract,Spiraea Ulmaria and SarcosineClearing MattifierAn anhydrous treatment that absorbs oil, clears breakouts and maintains an all-day matte finish2% Salicylic Acid, Cinnamon Bark Extract, Enantia Bark, Retinyl Palmitate and Grape Seed Extract.Sebum Clearing MasqueDescriptionA cooling, refining and deep-cleaning Kaolin and Bentonite clay masque that purifies, absorbs excess surface oil and helps prevent breakouts.BenefitsAddresses and controls the four factors that contribute to acne: overactive sebaceous glands, cell accumulation, bacteria and inflammation. Absorbs excess oil and refines skin texture. Purifies skin by eliminating bacteria associated with acne. Strengthens follicle membrane wall to help control inflammation associated with follicle eruptions.Key ingredients• Salicylic Acid exfoliates dead skin cells and clears congested follicles to minimize development of future comedones and breakouts.• Niacinamide, Yeast Extract, Horse Chestnut, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) and Caffeine regulate sebum production and soothe inflammation.Spiraea Ulmaria Extract inhibits bacteria by stimulating the skin’s natural anti-bacterial agents.Clearing MattifierAn anhydrous (waterless) treatment that absorbs oil to maintain an all-day matte finish, clears current breakouts, and helps prevent future breakout activity. To be used with your prescribed moisturizer for extra skin clearing and extra shine control.Maintains an all-day matte finish on skin. Exfoliates impaction plugs, clearing congestion and helping to prevent future breakouts. Soothes irritation.Key Ingredients2% Salicylic Acid aids in clearing congested follicles and soothing skin irritationRetinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) normalizes skin while acting as a natural exfoliantCamellia Oleifera (Green Tea), Licorice and Chamomile soothe and calm inflammationAt-home ApplicationAfter cleansing in the morning, apply sparingly to areas prone to excess oil production or breakouts.If needed, follow with Oil Control Lotion or prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizer.For best skin clearing results, use daily in the morning, and use Overnight Clearing Gel in the evening.
145mediBac clearing® Oil Control Lotion Feather-light lotion to absorb oil and help combat shine to maintain an all-day matte finishMicrosponges, Hyssopus, Zinc Gluconate, Niacinamide, Caffeine and Salicylic AcidConcealing Spot TreatmentAn intense spot treatment that works to conceal, treat and clear breakoutsSulfur, Zinc Oxide and carob seed extractOil Control Lotion (reformulated to reflect new ingredients)DescriptionA feather-light lotion containing microsponges to absorb oil on the skin’s surface, helping to combat shine and maintain an all-day matte finish.BenefitsAbsorbs excess oil and eliminates shine while providing an all day matte finish. Regulates sebum production. Soothes irritated skin while moisturizing.Key IngredientsSalicylic Acid aids in removal of impaction plugs and exfoliates skin.Niacinamide, Yeast Extract, Horse Chestnut, Panthenol, and Caffeine regulate sebum production, provide astringent properties to the skin and soothe inflammation.Zinc Gluconate helps regulate sebum production.At-home applicationApply lotion over the face with light, upward strokes. May be re-applied as needed throughout the day. Can be applied over or mixed with recommended Dermalogica Booster or additional results.Concealing Spot TreatmentAn intense treatment with a natural-looking tint ideal for daytime coverage of breakouts. Sulfur and Zinc Oxide quickly target, conceal and help clear breakouts. Benefits• A spot treatment that quickly dries breakouts.• Natural tint works to conceal breakouts while they are being treated.• Helps eliminate bacteria associated with acne while clearing congestion to help prevent future breakouts. Key Ingredients• Concentrated Sulfur and Zinc Oxide help clear skin by eliminating bacteria associated with acne and clearing excess oil and congestion in the follicle.
146mediBac clearing® Overnight Clearing Gel An overnight treatment gel that clears skin, calms inflammation and prevents future breakout2% Salicylic Acid, Tea Tree, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid and Nordihydroguaiaretic AcidSpecial Clearing BoosterA topical treatment for breakouts that helps to heal the lesion and kill bacteria5% Benzoyl Peroxide, Ivy, Sage, Watercress, Calendula and CornflowerOvernight Clearing GelDescriptionAn overnight treatment gel that helps clear skin, calm inflammation, and prevent future breakouts by reducing excess sebum, removing impaction plugs and eliminating bacteria.BenefitsRemoves impaction plug from follicle to help prevent future breakouts and relieve congestion.Helps regulate sebum production. May be applied over the face or to zones experiencing breakouts and congestion.Key IngredientsSalicylic Acid sloughs off pore-clogging skin cells to inhibit development of further breakouts.Niacinamide, horse chestnut, Yeast Extract, Caffeine and Nordihyroguaiaretic Acid soothes irritation, inhibits overactive sebaceous gland activity and purifies.At-home applicationAt night, apply a thin layer all over cleansed face and allow to absorb.In the morning, wash off with Clearing Skin Wash, then, for maximum treatment results, apply Clearing Mattifier to breakout-prone areas.Use nightly as needed.Special Clearing BoosterTopical treatment of breakouts. This 5% Benzoyl Peroxide concentrate, fortified with Zinc Sulfate, Tea Tree and Sage, eliminates bacteria while helping to accelerate breakout clearing.• Dries breakouts quickly.• Calming botanicals soothe redness and irritation.• May be used to treat existing blemishes and to help prevent future ones. Key Ingredients• 5% Benzoyl Peroxide, Zinc Sulfate and Tea Tree eliminate bacteria on contact in the follicles and help clear skin.• Botanical extracts of Calendula, Cornflower, Chamomile and St. John’s Wort help treat acne while soothing irritation. At-home application1. Before moisturizing, apply as a spot treatment to problem areas and allow to dry.2. Can also be used to boost clearing benefits of Oil Control Lotion, prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizer, and other MediBac ClearingTM products.3. Apply every 6-8 hours as needed until breakout clears.Benzoyl Peroxide may irritate very sensitive skin. Discontinue use if client experiences undue redness or burning. See product package for additional warnings.
147AGE Smart®a state-of-the-art system of innovative products designed to help prevent and correct physiological and physical manifestations of aging skinSegmentation lineStudent Reference: “the book” – Pages 104 – 118.There is a lot of advanced research and information, please attend the class and review your training manual.Introducing Dermalogica’s AGE smart® SystemThe International Dermal Institute has researched the changes that occur during skin aging. Instead of focusing on treating the manifestations of skin aging (wrinkles, hyper pigmentation, loss of elasticity, etc), they focused their efforts on understanding how they might impact the biochemical reactions that manifest these changes to stop them before they start. This research has resulted in the development of AGE smart® a system of retail and professional products designed to specifically treat and control the structural manifestations associated with skin aging and the biological triggers that lead to these changes. AGE smart® consists of new products as well as a reintroduction of updated formulations of some of our existing products: all of which work to fight the three main causes of skin aging.Refer to your chapters on aging and sun damaged skin for this segment.147
148AGE Smart® MAP-15 Regenerator® Skin Resurfacing Cleanserdual action 2-in-1 cleanses & exfoliatesAntioxidant HydraMisthydrates, antioxidant protection and flash firming actionMultiVitamin PowerRecovery® Masquepowerful recovery for stressed skin while enhancing barrier functionConcentratesingle dose capsule delivers vitamins to repair and restoreMAP-15 Regenerator®a unique powder to emulsion delivers potent vitamin CMultiVitamin Power Firmeye treatment to combat the signs of aging and protective siliconesAge Reversal Eye Complexreverse and repair multiple signs of aging with this breakthrough highly effective productSkin Resurfacing Cleanser - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - A dual-action exfoliating cleanser containing lactic acid that smoothes, retexturizes and delivers ultra-clean skin.Contraindications for use - NOT FOR USERS OF MEDICALLY PRESCRIBED EXFOLIANTS.Antioxidant HydraMist - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - A refreshing antioxidant shield with flash-firming properties to improve skin texture, fight free radicals and intensely hydrate alipoid, dehydrated skin.MultiVitamin Power Recovery® Masque - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - A powerful masque of concentrated antioxidant vitamins to help skin recover from damage while enhancing barrier properties and promoting healthy tissue regeneration.MultiVitamin Power Concentrate - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - This formulation of pure, concentrated vitamins A, C and E helps reverse the signs of premature aging while defending against future free radical damage.Important: FOR EXTERNAL USE ONLY.MAP-15 Regenerator® - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - A revolutionary powder-to-emulsion treatment that delivers the highest concentration of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) directly into the skin, dramatically improving skin firmness and clarity.MultiVitamin Power Firm - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - Combat visible lines around the eye and lip area with this powerful firming complex of skin-rebuilding antioxidant vitamins and protective silicones and red seaweed extract.Age Reversal Eye Complex – Mature or prematurely aging skinAge Reversal Eye Complex - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - Reverse multiple signs of aging with this breakthrough treatment specifically formulated for the delicate eye area.Continue next page…
149AGE Smart® Super Rich Repair moisturize chronically dry, prematurely aging skinPower RichTM3-in-1 to repair, renew and restoreDynamic Skin Recovery SPF30a lightweight daytime moisturizer fightsAGES (Advanced Glycation End productS)ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species)Regulates MMPs (Matrix Metalloproteinases)Renewal Lip Complexa lip treatment that repairs, protects, moisturizes & smoothesMultiVitamin Thermafoliant®this powerful skin polisher uses thermal technology to refine skin texture while targeting the internal causes that lead to skin agingMultiVitamin Hand and Nail Treatmenta dynamic hand cream with a multipurpose ingredient baseSuper Rich Repair - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - A super-concentrated, heavy-weight cream that combats chronically dry, dehydrated and prematurely-aging skin conditions while it repairs and protects. As the richest Dermalogica moisturizer, it soothes, hydrates and replenishes even the thirstiest skin while acting as a protective salve to fight extreme cold and dry environmental conditions.Power RichTM - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - Power Rich is Dermalogica’s supreme product in many ways: 3 formulas in 1 product. Each formulation is made separately then gently blended together to make a synergistic blend and highly powerful product. Power Rich represents everything that Dermalogica is, it is an aspirational product. A formulating chemist’s dream come true. The three phases are designed to provide intense hydration to the skin, structural support to the dermis and epidermis, while acid free exfoliating ingredients gently slough away surface Stratum Corneum cells.Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF30 - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - Achieve absolute hydration and defense against the internal causes of skin aging with this medium-weight, emollient daily moisturizer with SPF30.Contraindications for useNOT FOR USERS WITH SENSITIVE OR SENSITIZED SKIN.Renewal Lip Treatment - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - A daily lip treatment that restores delicate tissue, minimizes contour lines and helps prevent the signs of aging.MultiVitamin Thermafoliant® - Mature or prematurely aging skinDescription - A dulling, dry, leathery look to our skin is often associated with skin aging. For this reason, it is imperative to include exfoliation in professional treatments, and to outline a home care regimen that includes exfoliation to help maintain the results. This powerful skin polisher uses thermal technology to refine skin texture while targeting and controlling the internal causes that lead to skin aging. In order to understand how this product resurfaces the skin, we need to look first at the structure.NOT FOR USERS OF MEDICALLY PRESCRIBED EXFOLIANTS.MultiVitamin Hand and Nail TreatmentDescription - This is a dynamic hand cream with a multi purpose ingredient base. Ideal for all skins, but especially those clients concerned with the aging process as we all know it usually begins with the hands!
150shave dermalogica SHAVE Segmentation lineStudent Reference: “the book” Pages 154 – 162.Dermalogica SHAVE is an easy to use, simple to understand, 3 step regimen of highly effective products geared for unique skin conditions and unique facial hair growth types. This is the first shaving line of its kind with 3 key steps: pre-shave, shave and post-shave.SHAVE consists of 6 New retail products and 2 existing retail products. There is no professional product component to SHAVE.Instructor: Research and background for you.SHAVE: Solutions for the Man class and training DVD if still available.Instructor:This is an un-tapped market, this segment should do well in full service salons.The dermalogica shave 3-step system offers a completeregimen to deliver the closest shave possible and yourhealthiest skin ever
151dermalogica shave Clean Bar the performance of a cleanser in a bar formDaily Clean Scrubdual-action exfoliating cleanserPre-Shave Guardsoftens the beard without high-alkaline ingredientsSoothing Shave Creama super-close shave that prevents aggravationInvigorating Shave Gelshaving gel that soothes, cools and softensClose Shave Oilcreate an instant cushion between skin and razorPost-Shave Balmreduce discomfort & redness brought on by shavingDaily Defense Block SPF15light-weight lotion conditions,defends against UV raysClean Bar - All skin conditionsDescription - The performance of a Dermalogica cleanser in a convenient bar form. This soap-free, convenient bar removes impurities and breaks down surface oils without stripping the skin’s natural moisture barrier.Daily Clean Scrub - All skin conditionsDescription - Get shave-ready with this dual-action exfoliating cleanser that removes dulling surface debris, helping to lift the beard for a closer, cleaner shave.Pre-Shave Guard - All skin conditions, especially those with heavy, coarse beardsDescription - Heavy, tough beards require extra prepping that maximizes beard softening without the high-alkaline ingredients that can aggravate and dry skin. Also ideal for sensitized skin that needs an extra layer of protection against the razor.Soothing Shave Cream - All skin conditions, especially sensitive or dryDescription - An ultra-lubricating cream that delivers a super-close shave that won’t leave skin feeling sore. It helps skin recover from damage while preventing aggravation brought on by shaving.Invigorating Shave Gel - All skin conditions, especially oilyDescription - Achieve a barber-close shave with this maximum comfort shaving gel that soothes, cools and softens. Clear formula allows for optimum visibility of areas to be shaved. Calms redness while combating irritation for a pain-free shave.Close Shave Oil - All skin conditionsDescription - No nicks. No cuts. No redness. All accuracy! Create an instant cushion between skin and razor with this ultra-smooth shaving oil for the ultimate close shave.Post-shave balm - All skin conditionsDescription - So much more than an after shave: help reduce discomfort and redness brought on by shaving with this super cooling treatment balm. Intensely moisturizes and soothes to shorten post-shave recovery time. A must-have for all skin conditions.Daily Defense Block spf15 - All skin conditionsDescription - Don’t face the day without this multi-tasking daytime lotion. Light-weight formula helps condition and promotes skin recovery while defending against skin-aging UV rays. Beats dryness and leaves a shine-free finish. Everyday use means healthy, great-looking skin.
152ChromaWhite TRx®Student Reference - the ChromaWhite TRx training manual that came with their new Dermalogica training manual - “the book” .Good info when you are teaching advanced topics – pigmentation.So what do we now have in are arsenal to treat hyperpigmentation? New innovative technology provides safe but efficacious treatment of hyperpigmentation. To successfully affect hyperpigmentation, one needs to create a system for lightening. Skin health will not be compromised by unsafe ingredients or skin bleaching products. Dermalogica’s ChromaWhiteTRX system includes cleansers that exfoliate and prep the skin to receive active lightening/brightening agents.When used morning and night, ChromaWhite TRx® delivers synergistic, around-the-clock treatment and prevention of hyperpigmentation
153ChromaWhite TRx® Powerfoliant2® Tri-Active Cleanse Extreme C exfoliates & preps skin for absorption of lightening ingredientsPowerfoliant2®powerful liquid exfoliation treatment revealing a lighter skin tone (2 x weekly)Extreme Cconcentrated powder with enhanced brightenersC-12 Concentratebrightening serum that targets pigmentationPure Light SPF30daily SPF protection to defend against further development of pigmentationPure Nighttreatment moisturizer conditions, while targeting pigmentationTri-Active CleanseFor accelerated brightening and improved skin tone, for hyperpigmented skin.Description - A triple-active concentrated cleanser that improves surface clarity lifts dulling skin cells and prepares skin for maximum penetration of our original blend of enzymes, peptides and active brighteners. Skin is left feeling ultra clean and conditioned.Powerfoliant2®Description - Remove dulling surface cells and help maximize the absorption of brightening ingredients with this potent, two-part powder-liquid system that activates when combined.Extreme CDescription - A unique powder-to-emulsion treatment which delivers a high concentration of Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) along with brightening agents and exfoliants to optimize skin clarity.C-12 ConcentrateDescription - A silky-rich, high-potency treatment that brightens, minimizes discoloration and improves skin clarity.Pure Light SPF30Description - A medium weight daytime treatment moisturizer that conditions and brighten skin while physical sunscreens help defend skin against pigment-inducing UV light.Pure NightDescription - Nourishing and brightening overnight moisturizing treatment to brighten and help minimize surface spots while conditioning and hydrating skin.There is also a kit in this segmented line that has the majority of the products in full sizes. We feel that trying the products for only a short period of time will not deliver the results the client is demanding.****show the kit if you have in stock.Link: and for sensitive and sensitized skin…
154UltraCalmingTMReference the UltraCalming training manual and DVD. Show tester unit and product.Serious skin relief for sensitized skin. Dermalogica UltraCalming products are multi-beneficiary, packed with key actives that fight inflammation-induced redness and irritation, while restoring the skin’s natural lipid composition for an overall soothing and restorative treatment.They:Calm inflammation, reduce redness, soothe irritationControl & limit immunogenic & neurogenic inflammationReinforce barrier lipids: stimulate synthesis of ceramides and surface lipidsHydrate tissuesAll are dermatologist testedINSTRUCTORS: for more information you may order the professional training guides and retail manuals. They will also learn all about immunogenic and neurogenic inflammation, trigger factors, stress and skin connection and treatments to calm, soothe and repair sensitized skin. The practical session should include a unique UltraCalming Skin Relief Massage.For your training needs:How to handle and avoid a reaction is also covered in the Professional Product and Treatment Workshop.Multi-beneficiary and packed with key actives that fight inflammation-induced redness and irritation to restore the skin’s natural lipid composition for an overall soothing and restorative treatment
155UltraCalmingTM UltraCalmingTM Cleanser gentle sulfate free gel cream, can be wiped away for skin that cannot tolerate waterUltraCalmingTM Mista soothing mist quickly relieves sensitivity, used when neededUltraCalmingTM Relief Masquefor enraged skin, flare ups, used in spot areas if necessaryUltraCalmingTM Serum Concentratea super concentrated serum antidote for skin sensitivityBarrier Repaira unique anhydrous (waterless) moisturizer to reinforce the protective barrierRedness Relief SPF20a 3-in-1 spf moisturizer that neutralizes redness, defends against inflammation and protectsThis is the UltraCalming line of retail products. Some of our products you maybe familiar with from our Environmental Control System but they are new and improved! All products for: Sensitized, reactive and recently resurfaced skin.UltraCalming Cleanser description: This extremely gentle, pH-balanced gel/cream glides easily over face and eyes to cleanse without stripping skin’s protective barrier. Easily rinses away or wipes off, making it ideal for skin so sensitized it cannot tolerate water. Fortifies skin’s protective barrier without leaving an irritating residue. Sulfate-free: some skin is sensitive to sulfates, which is a type of cleansing agent. This formula has been improved to include UltraCalming™ Complex and remove sulfates.UltraCalming Mist description: A soothing hydrating mist quickly relives sensitivity while helping to calm redness, stinging and aggravated skin. Use post-cleanse to lock in hydration and prep skin for treatment with UltraCalming products.UltraCalming Relief Masque description: A powerful, ultracalming masque enriched with colloidal oatmeal to soothe enraged skin and provide lasting relief from redness, rosacea flare-ups or aggravation associated with resurfaced skin. Can be used on the face or targeted areas with sensitivity (around the eyes, chest area). Use 2-3 times a week to for maximum benefit.UltraCalming Serum Concentrate description: The antidote for skin sensitivity, a super concentrated serum that helps calm, restore and defend sensitized skin. Contains the highest concentration of the UltraCalming™ Complex to help relieve irritation and prevent future sensitivity. Helps reinforce the skin’s natural lipid composition to control the damaging effects of the environment and lifestyle on our skin.Barrier Repair description: A unique anhydrous (waterless) moisturizer that melts gently into sensitized skin to soothe and reinforce the protective barrier. Now formulated with UltraCalming™ Complex to help relieve sensitivity, redness and irritation while botanicals, soothing vitamins and protective silicones shield skin from future assaults.Redness Relief SPF20 description:This three-in-one SPF moisturizer helps neutralize, relieve and defend against inflammation and redness induced by skin sensitivity. Natural earth minerals provide a sheer green tint to actively counter telltale redness. Our exclusive UltraCalming™ Complex contains Oat and botanical actives that work below the surface to interrupt inflammatory triggers that lead to sensitization, while helping to minimize discomfort, burning and itching.UltraCalming Cleanser no longer called “for face and eyes”Soothing Protection Spray is replaced with UltraCalming MistEnvironmental Control Deodorant & Climate Control have not been integrated into the line, will stay within daily groomers(Prof) UltraCalming Complex replaces Environmental Control Serum
156treatment foundationThe last step in skin care, the first step in make-up. Oil-free, water-based formulas with natural Iron Oxides provide flawless coverage while moisturizing and protecting the skinStudent Reference: “the book” pagesDermalogica’s Treatment Foundation meets the highest standards forfoundation. It is non-comedogenic and water based with a velvet textureand gives flawless coverage, without heaviness.There are two ways of applying the treatment foundation:With damp sponges for a lighter coverage.With finger tips in a quick downward strokes for a more concealing coverage.- The packaging is contamination-freeAn easy to clean mixing palette is available to mix shades, and in each retail sizefoundation 2 sponge applicators are given for free.
157kits…the essential starter Show the students the kits and get them really enthusiastic about them. It’s a great way to introduce the Dermalogica range to a client, great for the gym, work, travel and excellent for gifts. There are 10 kits to choose from including the Chroma White TRx kit. A kit is generally a 30 day supply of product, but it will vary.
158it doesn’t stop at the face Body MappingSMBody TherapyDaily GroomersStudent Reference: “the book” Page 136 – 143Please see your Dermalogica calendar and get yourself familiar with all of the other classes that are offered. Just like Face Mapping® skin analysis, Dermalogica also has Body Mapping® analysis to help address the concerns of the skin of the body.In keeping with the Dermalogica philosophy, the body therapy system, has been extensively researched and developed by The International Dermal Institute. All products are able to be customized with each other, and blended to suit a variety of body therapy needs.UltraRich Body Cream – Drier or prematurely-aging skinAn ultra-rich, long-lasting body cream to help heal and relieve extra dry skin.Body Hydrating Cream – All skin conditionsAn advanced body cream formula with hdyroxy acids to smooth and condition skin.Conditioning Body Wash – All skin conditionsA rich, skin conditioning botanical cleanser for the entire body.Exfoliating Body Scrub – All skin conditionsA creamy, lightly foaming body scrub that dramatically polishes and energizes skin.Hydro-Active Mineral Salts – All skin conditionsA Sea Salt body therapy for all-over skin polishing.Stress Relief Treatment Oil – All skin conditionsAn aromatic body treatment oil for massage, bath therapy and deluxe skin conditioning.The Ultimate Buffing Cloth – All skin conditionsA quick-drying, hygienic exfoliating cloth to buff and polish the body.Daily groomers that condition the skin in a few neglected areas.Environmental Control DeodorantSafe alternative to potentially-irritating antiperspirants. Formulated with essential oils and herbal extracts to help neutralize odor and odor-causing bacteria. Does not stain clothing or irritate skin, even after shaving and does not leave a white residue. Excellent for sensitized skin or allergy-prone individuals.Shine Therapy ShampooAn award winning formula for excellent therapy of the scalp and hair. Ideal for those who have flaky dry scalps, the Rosemary brings out the true SHINE of the hair, and brings an overall health and balance to the scalp and the hair.Silk Finish ConditionerAn ultra conditioning formula for even the driest of hair. Brings out the natural moisture balance and reduces the porosity of the hair. Can be used just on the tips of the hair for light conditioning, all over when following shampooing or as a leave in hair gel on short hair which is being swept back.MultiVitamin Hand and Nail TreatmentThis is a dynamic hand cream with a multi purpose ingredient base. Ideal for all skins, but especially those clients concerned with the aging process as we all know it usually begins with the hands!
159questions?Why is it important to prescribe home care products to our clients?Do Dermalogica cleansers contain soap?What do boosters do?What are the differences between the grey line and the segmented line?Homework!Your script:It is the responsibility of the skin care therapist to make sure the client’s needs are being met by recommending customized home care programs as well as future professional visits. So, let’s review a bit. Questions on slide.All Dermalogica cleansers are soap-free and water soluble.Boosters target specific skin conditions, such as dehydration, sensitized and irritated skin.The Gray line is fully equipped to help you and your clients maintain the health and wellness of their skin, while the segmentation lines will give you the diversity you need in and out of the treatment room to deal with specific skin conditions like acne, concerns with aging and daylight defense protection just to name a few.For homework, let’s have a bit of fun!Break students into study groups, give each group one or more categories of Dermalogica retail products:Group 1 – Cleansers and Exfoliants, Group 2 – Moisturizers and Boosters, Group 3 – Masques and Targeted Treatments, Group 4 – Treatment Foundation and Daylight DefenseEach group to make a list of their products and how they would communicate to the client the following information:What it is? What it does? How it is used? When would you use it? Results expected…Then take turns presenting to class the following day as they would to client. Role playing would be a great interactive session also.Textbook reference for retailing:Milady’s Standard Esthetics Fundamentals: Chapter 22 Pivot Point Salon Fundamentals: Chapter 2
160face mapping skin analysis ® segment 6school programSegment 1This is your introduction to the Dermalogica segments you will be using as additional support material for a very important aspect of your curriculum. Every slide is scripted but as you become familiar with the material, you may add your own notes and comments.This segment outlines the material and introduces the Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis Consultation Card, step by step. You may choose to use only the slides that pertain to your curriculum plan for a particular day.A quick reference of each slide in the presentation is provided at the beginning of every segment. Times are noted in some instances, however, it will depend on your individual curriculums how much time you allot to each subject. You may use them as needed to review and reinforce learning.Quick Reference: CategoriesIntroduction: slides 1-4Course goals: slide 5Course outline: slides 6-10Core elements of a skin care treatment: slides 11-12What you will be using: Dermalogica Professional Product Line: slide 13The consultation card: slides 14-25Skin analysis, skin type vs. skin condition: slides 26 and 27Contraindications: slide 28Review and homework assignment: slide 29Instructor preparation and support:Milady's Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians: Chapter 13Pivot Point Fundamentals Esthetics: Chapters 9-10Dermalogica Classes: Dermalogica Live and The Dermalogica Skin Treatment
161what is face mapping® skin analysis? reading the skin and effectively communicating to the client what you discover and prescribing the correct regimenYour script:As new students, you may feel overwhelmed at the prospect of retailing while you are still learning how to perform the core treatment, but this is a tool that will help you communicate to your clients in a positive manner and reassure them that you can provide solutions for their skin care concerns.What is face mapping® skin analysis?How we communicate what we see, feel and observe about our client’s skin is vitally important. The information we pass on about their skin, touches on who they are, and their current lifestyle.A simple statement at the beginning of every treatment will help you get started, such as:“I am going to be giving you a professional skin treatment today. I will ask a few questions and share some information about your skin with you during the cleansing and Face Mapping® portion of the treatment. Don’t worry, you will have plenty of opportunity to completely relax but as your skin therapist it’s my job to know as much as possible about your skin and also educate you about it.”Instructor, role playing with your students during the work shop portion will help them to process this technique in a very short period and they will have a fun time doing it!In the workshop phase, you may even have students face map clients that are waiting in the school reception area or students from another class. This breaks down resistance to approaching clients when they are assigned from the clinic floor.
162Elevates the therapist Educates the client Links directly to the prescriptionCements trust & commitmentRecent survey = 80% of our clients want advice on how to treat their skin but only 3% actually get it.What does it do?Gives an in-depth analysis of your client’s skin. This form of skin analysis is the key to giving a successful customized skin care treatment and a professional and accurate prescription for the home care regime. This crucial step in any skin care treatment provides vital information on the condition of the skin, the client’s lifestyle and even their internal health.It elevates the therapist – you are the skin expertClients need and want to be educated on what is best for their skinIt’s not retailing – it’s prescribingThe therapist gains the trust and loyalty of the clientBy using Face Mapping® skin analysis, we can truly adapt the treatment to the needs of the individual and select the appropriate products for them to prescribe.162
1635 steps to great skin Step 1 Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis consultation cardStep 2Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysisStep 3Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis prescription sheetStep 4Present your findingsStep 5Close the saleLet’s begin with discussing the 5 steps to great skinTo be successful we need to understand that it is a process, not just simply one thing. Looking at the Dermalogica ‘five steps to great skin’ do you think that we will achieve results every time? Absolutely !Overview 5 steps.Step 1. We have already discovered the unique features of Face Mapping skin analysis consultation card which enables us to know as much as possible about our client. We will continue to explore the Dermalogica exclusive concept of Face Mapping skin analysis, and alongside the consultation, how it links to both the professional treatment and home care routine.Step 2. Get student feedback: What is the purpose of the consultation card?…Getting client information to check for any contraindications to ensure client safetyMaintain record of treatment and home care recommendationsWe need to highlight any concerns - this is key to a successful treatment and prescriptive homecareThen discuss what it means from the client’s point of view:When a thorough consultation is performed before a treatment, it provides an opportunity to help the client understand that we are focussing on their skin’s health vs. it being just a treat! Ultimately, it ensures respect for the skin therapist, through the education and insight they can provide about the client’s skin condition.Turn to Page in the “book” or take out the consultation cardSo let’s start with a recap of Steps 1 and 2, then we will move on to how to prescribe home care for our clients using the Dermalogica Face Mapping skin analysis system.We will then move into a workshop to practice prescription sales.
164let’s review – the consultation card Step 1 - Let’s just cover a few of the main points on the card, and discuss why it is important to gain this information.Direct students to detailed information in their Dermalogica training manual.Go through the sections.Your HealthKey to discovering the safety of treatment, as well as medications, surgery and lifestyle contribute greatly to general health and affect the skin greatly (i.e. recent surgery, client on antibiotics, increased sensitivity with the skin). This section also helps you to establish stress levels (i.e. Is the client a smoker? How are their sleep patterns? Do they exercise?).Your SkinSection helps you to find out how your client currently cares for their skin and what concerns them. Water temperature: either very hot or cold water can sensitize and dry the skin. Recommend using tepid water temperatures. Special problems that relate to your skin or body. Let the client tell you about any special concerns they may have about their skin. What types of skin care products are currently be used? Provides good indication to the level of skin care sophistication the client has. Are they a soap and water user or a more elaborate user of multiple department store products?Exfoliation HistoryToday, this is a highly important part to the initial consultation as clients are often undergoing procedures or using active exfoliation preparations that can be quite invasive. The main rule is that the skin must be healed and healthy at a normal skin thickness before any exfoliation should take place. It is important to know if your client has had any previous exfoliation procedures or treatments, like chemical peels, microdermabrasion,etc…Moisture HydrationWater, alcohol, sun exposure and lack of adequate protection will indicate how well hydrated client’s skin is.Capillary ActivityRedness or increased capillary activity. Ask the client what level SPF they have been using: Do they blush easily? Experience redness? or Sinus problems. This section will indicate possible early stages of Rosacea, skin sensitivity and sensitized skin.Oil SecretionEnables you to discover how oily your client’s skin is and whether they may be acne prone. Evaluate how quickly their skin is producing oil and what types of breakouts they may experience. Do they have Comedones? Milia? Pustules? Check ingredients in products and make-up. This section will help us in choosing the ideal cleanser from The Gray Line.Nerve ActivityKnowing more about your client’s nerve activity will help you to ensure that the client has the best experience. If nerve activity is heightened, this could lead to a possible reaction to the treatment and certain products. Question further about caffeine, burning, itching sensations on the skin, pain threshold, the client's history of allergies. If in doubt as to client's suitability for treatments, do a patch test on the inside arm and let them try some samples of Dermalogica at home.Female Clients OnlyThese questions must be answered as contraceptives, pregnancy, lactation and breast feeding can greatly affect what treatment can be performed and what signs are expected on the skin like pigmentation changes and acne type breakouts.Male Clients OnlyIf your male client complains of shaving irritation, it may be their routine or procedure they are following. Ask whether they prefer to shave with a wet or electric method, use aftershave, soap, experience ingrown hairs, etc. They will be very happy to have their problems addressed and solved!Questions to Discuss Every VisitSkin becomes sensitized around menstruation time. Swelling occurs. Advise the client of this before waxing, heat treatments or peeling. Any new medication? etc…Your healthYour skinExfoliation historyMoisture hydrationCapillary activityOil secretionNerve activityFemale clientsMale clientsQuestions to discuss every visit
165face mapping® skin analysis Why it worksHow to mapClients are time starved but want more resultsClients are information hungry and savvier than everClients are confused by a crowded skin care landscapeClients will invest in a regimen that worksCommunicate the conceptPut on the headsetIntroduce each zone to the clientWork methodically, touch and feel the skinExplain what you see and feel, educate the client and ask questions about their skinGeneralized skin analysis does not ensure great skin results!Clients are time-starved but still want results – time compressed clients still want instant gratification and through Face Mapping skin analysis they will receive education on products that will deliver instant results.Clients are information hungry and savvier than ever – status skills trends demonstrate a need amongst consumers for information to facilitate choices.Clients are confused by the crowded skincare landscape – the more choice we have the more difficult it is to make a decision (paradox of choice trend). The opportunity to try products, see instant results and get worthwhile advice is what the consumer is demanding.Clients will invest in a regimen that works – instant gratification along with getting value for money motivates clients to buy professional grade products versus mass brands, even if the price tag is a little higher than average.How to map:Communicate the conceptPut on the headset/magnifying lampIntroduce each zone to the clientWork methodically, touch and feel the skinExplain what you see and feel, educate the client and ask questions about their skin(asking questions is critical as it provides ”aha” moments for the client when they learn something, establishing you as an expert)
166what to look for? Skin type Normal/combination Oil dry Oily Acne Sensitive/RosaceaSkin conditionDehydrationSensitizedAging/premature agingPigmentationCongestion/breakoutsInstructor: recap skin type vs. skin conditions. Students need to grasp that we can not change skin type with product, only maintain the associated symptoms. We can however change/ improve skin conditions with product.Overview skin types in Q&A style. Cleansers and moisturizers are recommended to maintain skin type as these are used on a daily basis. To address skin conditions we will look at all the other product categories.Skin Type is what we are born with and can be measured by the amount of oil secretion in the skin. The skin’s reactivity and capillary activity can also be genetically determined. We can’t change an individual’s skin type. We can only control the symptoms of the skin type with product, but without the product the skin would revert to the original state. It’s a bit like hair color. We are born with a hair color that we can change using product. Stop using the product and the hair will eventually return to the original color.Skin conditions we acquire through external and internal factors such as UV exposure, incorrect product choices, climate, immediate environment, medication, stress and lifestyle. The condition of our skin will fluctuate whereas our skin type remains constant. Cover conditions later. …Normal: Very rare! Not many of us have a normal skin - only when we are very young. This skin is balanced in regards to oil secretion but falls out of balance easily by hormonal changes and environmental factors. For someone who has been born with a normal skin, maintenance is still very necessary. To maintain a genetically normal skin type without any visible problems, we would recommend a simple routine that maintains hydration and protection.Oil Dry: This type of client will experience a lack of oil over the entire body as they have a smaller sebaceous gland that is under-active. This skin requires stimulation, warmth and oil-rich products to nourish and stimulate. For a dryer skin recommend a creamier cleanser and nourishing moisturizer.Oily: Clients need to keep the skin clean, free from debris to prevent breakouts and comedones, try to control over-secretion of oil. The skin needs to be judged as to whether it is thick, coarse and oily all over or maybe just oily in the classic T-zone. Zones 1,2,3,7 and 12. For an oily skin recommend a deep cleansing, purifying type cleanser and lightweight, oil-free moisturizer.Acne: As it is a genetic predisposition, medication or doctor’s advice may be needed for Grades 3 & 4, where there is inflammation, pustules, papules and in severe cases nodules and cysts. For Grade 1 & 2, this tends to be more like a condition as it is the oily skin that has been influenced by other factors and characterised by open and closed comedones and the occasional papule or pustule.Sensitive: This skin type is genetically predisposed to be sensitive. There is often a family history of hay fever, asthma and eczema. The skin is normally fair. Traditionally, we have always suspected thinner, fairer skins to be more susceptible to sensitive problems.Rosacea: As skin therapists we need to be aware of the first signs of rosacea. This is a genetic vascular disorder with four different stages of development. The exact cause is unknown, though we know that it is a disorder. It is mainly seen in Caucasians with light skin and hair - there is a strong genetic influence, but the exact genes have not been identified.
167face mapping® skin analysis zones Step 2Your Script:During the analysis, a continual dialogue should be held between you and the client on what is being looked for and what is found.By covering the skin inch-by-inch a true analysis of the skin’s condition can be obtained and- you can imagine the zones in an overlay on your clients face.Face Mapping® skin analysis provides you with an opportunity of positioning yourself as the expert in skin care. You can provide the client with an insight into their skin (through talking during the Face Mapping® skin analysis and writing on the face map) in such depth, that they have never experienced before.Students have FACE MAPPING® SKIN ANALYSIS LAMINATED CHEAT SHEET located in the back of their training manual.
168face mapping® skin analysis zones Map your findings:b = Breakout activityc = Comedoned = Dilated capillariesdh = Dehydrationm = Miliap = Pigmentationfl = Fine linesdl = Deep liness = Sensitivity/rednessHand out copies of the Face Mapping® skin analysis prescription sheetStudent Reference: pages “the book”Your Script:This is not an extra step, it is performed during the analysis. It simply divides the face, neck and décolleté into 14 Zones that you will cover very methodically.Instructor: At this point write on white board so they realize the purposeA customized treatment (hold up consultation card).A home care regimen (hold up prescription sheet) can be prescribed.This is the most in-depth, and methodical way to look at the skin. Point out the different zones.A code has been developed to help you to record your findings on the prescription map. This will help the client to understand exactly what they should be doing at home. It also is a convenient record to be attached to the consultation card.Read out each code.skin conditionb = breakout activity (inflamed, swollen or pus-filled breakouts)c = comedones (blackheads, clogged pores)d = dilated capillaries (tiny or fine veins or blood vessels)dh=dehydration (lacking moisture or water)m= milia (whitehead, generally not swollen and common under or around the eyes)p = pigmentation (includes dark (hyper) pigmentation like sun-damage or white (hypo)pigmentation)fl= fine lines (crows feet, first signs of aging)dl= deep lines (long term UV exposure, sun damage)s= sensitivity (redness, flushing/blushing, rash, razor burn, thin skin, over exfoliation)168
169tools to work with Analyze the skin with: Your eyes through the magnifying lampYour woods lamp/skin scannerYour touch, feel for congestion, hot spots, texture, oiliness and drynessYour Script:These are the main tools that assist in carrying out a thorough analysis. Talk about the importance of good equipment.The magnifying lamp must be kept clean and is normally a 5 diopter strength.Skin Scanners are a great investment and will boost retail sales. Hand held Woods Lamps will also help give a more accurate account of what is going on with the skin.Woods LampIn Dermatology, it is used as a diagnostic instrument, to analyze skin types through their different shades, characteristics and peculiarities.The lamp must be used in a totally dark room, and blemishes that are barely visible to the naked eye can be seen under the rays.This instrument uses UV ‘black light’ to fluoresce skin conditions and abnormalities.Nothing will take the place of experienced touch, through your hands you will “feel” for congestion (bumpiness under the skin) hot spots or sensitive areas, texture (smooth or rough, coarse) oily, greasy feel or very dry “parched” skin.
170The Face Mapping® Skin Analysis Prescription Sheet Along with the consultation, Face Mapping® skin analysis and insanely great treatment, the prescription sheet is part of the service we are providing for the client. Our treatment does not end with the application of moisturizer. The service is not complete without discussing the personalized prescription sheet.The Face Mapping® Skin Analysis Prescription Sheet will benefit both the therapist and client.For the therapist, the prescription sheet is a great tool to help with product recommendations and is invaluable to help close the sale. No longer will we wildly gesture at a complete shelf of product in the hope that the client might ask for something. The Face Mapping® skin analysis prescription sheet allows us to recommend specific products to deliver targeted results.After we go over the “how” and “why” of Face Mapping® skin analysis you will be able to pair up, practice and fill out prescription home care for one another.Let’s take a look at each zone and some of the possible skin conditions that we may find.
171the zones Zones 1 & 3 – Forehead: possible breakouts, dehydration Nose: congestion, redness, flakinessZones 4 & 10 - Ears: comedones, sensitized skinExplain to the client as you are touching each area what you may be seeing or feeling.Start at ZONE 1 & 3 – left and right side of forehead Looking and feeling for congestion, irritation and breakouts. Check along the hairline and eyebrows. Congestion in this area may be due to improper cleansing and removal of products.ZONE 2 – in between eyebrows- Looking and feeling for congestion, areas of excess oil production and possible ingrown hairs. Cleaning improperly, over active sebaceous activity in the t-zone.ZONE 4 & 10 - ears - Looking for comedones and congestion, heat.You will be checking behind and inside the ear. It is a common thing to see comedones in the ears. This often happens because of product and shampoo collecting in the well of the ear and not being rinsed or removed.
172the zones Zones 5 & 9 – Cheeks: sensitized skin and hot spots, milia Eye area: milia, fine lines, dark circlesDo not place eye pads on the eyes, as you will need to look and feel closely around these zones.ZONE 5 & 9 - right and left cheek - Looking for broken capillaries, sensitivity, barrier function and under surface congestionSmoking, sinus sufferers, any type of cough or chest ailment may experience problems in this area. Ask about work environment, pollution and chemical exposure.ZONES 6 and 8 – right and left eye- Looking for milia, fine lines, puffiness and dark circles, irritation (allergies) on the eyelid.Milia around the outer eye area can be caused by certain make-up that contains comedogenic ingredients, such as synthetic colors and eye shadows that glitter or have a high shine. What are they removing eye make-up with? Mineral oil, Vaseline? They may also wear eyeglasses, which rub on their eye orbit. Dark circles can be hereditary.
173the zones Zone 7 – Upper lip area: congestion and comedones Zones 11 & 13 – Jaw line area: breakouts, under surface congestionZONE 7 – nose & upper lip Looking and feeling for congestion and broken capillaries - This Zone tends to have the most congestion of all due to the excess of sebum production in this area. Comedones along the lip line will indicate that lipstick or lip liners with comedogenic ingredients (artificial color), are being used by your client.ZONES 11 & 13 – right and left side of chin –Look and feel for under the surface congestion and breakoutsUnder the surface congestion can be due to not cleansing all the way down to the jaw-line and leaving residue of make-up and cleanser in this zone. Congestion and blemishes can also be hormonal as with the upper lip in Zone 7.
174the zones Zone 12 – Chin: Zone 14 – Neck: breakouts, micro- comedones breakouts, pigmentationZONE 12- chin – Look and feel for under the surface congestion, microcomedones and breakouts -The front of the chin will often have congestion particularly microcomedones, this is common on all of us.ZONE 14 – neck and chest area - Looking for blemishes, pigmentation and signs of aging. Blemishes in this area are an indication of high stress levels in the client. Pigmentation is an indication of photosensitivity to fragrance in the past and not taking their sun products down onto the neck and chest area, which is commonly always exposed to the sun even in winter in hot climates. This is the first zone to really show signs of aging on a woman.
175Workshop – option 1 - break students up into groups, give each group several zones with possible conditions that occur, have them prescribe the correct cleanser, exfoliant, toner and moisturizer for that condition. Option 2 – students partner up, face map each other fill out prescription for partner..You are now ready to begin your workshop. Be sure to demonstrate the technique on a model so that students have a good idea of how to begin. They will be quite eager and may not recognize everything they see, but it is good practice for them.Tips : Client’ s initial visit: First time clients will need to know the benefits of what you are doing, be sure to explain this to students during your demonstration.What they should do on Subsequent visitsStudent should review the client’s consultation card.Study The Face Mapping® skin analysis prescription sheet for the areas of concern during the last visit, what products were recommended and which of these were purchased or sampled. Ask the client for feedback in regards to using the products and samples provided. Check there are no changes on their consultation card before progressing with the treatment. Proceed with the treatment as before and when you get to the Face Mapping® skin analysis stage of the treatment, refer to the previously completed face map, see if there are improvements in the condition of their skin since the last visit and make notes on a new face map. This will take 5-7minutes during these subsequent visits. The extra time available can be spent on extractions or massage part of the treatment. When reviewing the face map with the client at the end of the treatment, use both the old and new maps to show improvements or new conditions and concerns.Complete the new face map with new products and give to your client, staple this carbon to the consultation. You can keep the old Face Map as a reference to the skin’s improvement.Instructor: This helps teach students the value of maintaining records and updating them each time the client comes in. The clients consultation card and prescription sheet should always be checked by the instructor before it is filed by the student. Once you have completed this segment you will move into the retail segment.let’s play!
176school program Segment 1 treatment protocols segment 7 This is your introduction to the Dermalogica segments you will be using as additional support material for a very important aspect of your curriculum. Every slide is scripted but as you become familiar with the material, you may add your own notes and comments.This segment outlines the material and introduces the Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis Consultation Card, step by step. You may choose to use only the slides that pertain to your curriculum plan for a particular day.A quick reference of each slide in the presentation is provided at the beginning of every segment. Times are noted in some instances, however, it will depend on your individual curriculums how much time you allot to each subject. You may use them as needed to review and reinforce learning.Quick Reference: CategoriesIntroduction: slides 1-4Course goals: slide 5Course outline: slides 6-10Core elements of a skin care treatment: slides 11-12What you will be using: Dermalogica Professional Product Line: slide 13The consultation card: slides 14-25Skin analysis, skin type vs. skin condition: slides 26 and 27Contraindications: slide 28Review and homework assignment: slide 29Instructor preparation and support:Milady's Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians: Chapter 13Pivot Point Fundamentals Esthetics: Chapters 9-10Dermalogica Classes: Dermalogica Live and The Dermalogica Skin Treatment
177“owning” the treatment In order to become great at whatwe do, we must ask ourselves:How well am I doing?Do I feel confident as I work?What are my strengths during the treatment?Am I following the protocol for the core treatment?Instructor, this may be a good time to get verbal feedback from your students on how well they feel they are doing as opposed to your visual observations. Ask yourself; would I want to receive a treatment from my students? Everyone learns at a different pace, some will have a natural ability to grasp things quickly, others will lag behind or need more practice… this is an opportunity to let them be frank and enjoy the open discussion without being critiqued on an actual treatment.Allow 5-10 minutes for this section. Listen as they speak among themselves, you will probably be surprised at some of the comments.
178good treatment or GREAT!!! Details, details, details…GreetingFace Mapping® Consultation CardAmenities (before, during and after the service)Addressing client concernsPrescribing home regimenFollow through with re-booking and recommendationsReview Pages 187,188 in “the book” with students – If they follow this protocol with every client, every visit, then they will be extremely successful.What is the correct way to greet your client? New? Returning client? Treat returning clients as if they were coming in for the first time… don’t take them for granted. They love the attention to details, that’s why they return!!!The Consultation Card is crucial for what reason? (Let students answer).Name a few amenities you would like to offer your clients? Before the service; lockers, dressing room, gowns, slippers and robes. Perhaps a warm tummy pillow during the service…Why are they there? What would they like to see improved? Can we achieve it in one treatment? Will we need to book a series to get results? When is the best time to discuss this?Don’t be afraid to prescribe a complete regimen, then discuss priorities for success with the client. It takes a combination of professional treatments and home care to improve the condition of the skin and get the desired results.If the treatment is great there will never be a problem with re-booking!!!So, don’t settle for good, we must be GREAT!!!
179learning tools The dermalogica core treatment Laminated cheat sheet Laminated product cheat sheetLaminated face mapping® skin analysis cheat sheetEvery treatment you will perform will be great if you master the Dermalogica core treatment! Use the learning tools you received in the back of “the book” to assist you through every step of the treatment.
180treatments for everyone Can you identify any specific conditions from the photos? Sun damage? Sensitive skin? Acne? What problems might our male clients have? Would we treat them differently?Open discussion: Review some of the skin conditions you have covered with students in theory and how they can be treated by using specific ingredients and protocols to get results. If you offer series specials on your menu, be sure to explain in detail how important it is to get the client booked on a regular basis for corrective treatments.
181let’s look at our choices AGE smart® Treatment– clients with signs of aging, dry or sun damageMediBac Clearing® Treatment – acne management targeting adult breakouts and preventionUltraCalming™ Skin Treatment – sensitive and environmentally sensitized skin conditionsDiscuss the Dermalogica professional systems to treat each condition.AGE smart® (see training manual & DVD for treatment protocols) Client’s that are fighting conditions of dryness, pre-mature aging from over exposure to the sun, will benefit from this powerful treatment. It utilizes the Multivitamin Power Exfoliant System, which addresses the issues of poor cell turnover, excessive dryness and pigmentation. Remind students that the MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant requires a patch test and should not be administered to clients who are on Accutane or have been on it for the past 6 months. Review the ingredients and procedures in the professional section of the “book” (formerly Power Regeneration Techniques).MediBac Clearing® line - (see training manual on professional treatment products and how to incorporate into the core treatment). Many of us suffer from breakouts, so I’m sure this is one of our favorite treatments. Review key ingredients (highlighted in bold) used in each step. Make sure to cover home care regimen. It is essential that students are guided through each step (especially the extraction process) before they perform the treatment.An UltraCalming™ Skin Treatment refers to which type of client? Clients with itchy, flaky, redness, irritated skin conditions…can you think of any contributing factors? Extreme weather conditions, allergies, eczema, etc…