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Chapter 16 Haircutting.

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1 Chapter 16 Haircutting

2 Basic Principles of Haircutting
Good haircuts: *understand the shape of the head Hair responds differently: *various areas *depends on length *cutting technique used

3 Be aware of head form: *curves *turns *changes

4 *where surface changes ~ears ~jaw line ~occipital bone ~apex
Reference Points: *where surface changes ~ears ~jaw line ~occipital bone ~apex *establish design lines

5 Helps: *find balance ~both sides turn out the same ~recreate the same haircut ~where/when to change technique -flat crown -bangs

6 Parietal Ridge: *widest area *temples to bottom of crown Find: *comb flat on side of head Found: *where starts to curve away from the comb

7 Occipital bone: *protrudes at base of skull Find: *feel *comb flat against nape

8 Apex: *highest point *top of head Find: *comb flat on top of head

9 Four corners: Find: *make two diagonal lines *crossing the apex *front and back corners

10 *will not use every point for every haircut
*know where they are Example: Front corners=widest point in bang area

11 *parietal ridge and above *hair “lies” on head Front:
Areas of the Head Top: *parietal ridge and above *hair “lies” on head Front: *apex to back of ear *falls in front of ear

12 *between apex and back of parietal ridge *often flat
Sides: *back of ear forward *below parietal ridge Crown: *between apex and back of parietal ridge *often flat *cowlicks and whorls *pay special attention

13 Nape: *below the occipital bone Back: *apex to the back of the ear *all hair that falls behind the ear



16 Bang: (fringe) *apex to front corners *no farther than outer corner of eyes (end of eyebrow)

17 Tanyalovesyou.b;

18 Lines and Angles Line: thin continuous mark *used as a guide Angle *space between two lines *intersect at a given point ~straight ~curved

19 Horizontal lines: (0 degrees)
*parallel to floor *directs eyes from one side to another *build weight *one-length haircuts *low-elevation haircuts


21 Vertical lines: (90 degrees)
*up and down *perpendicular to floor *removes weight *graduated or layered haircuts *higher elevations



24 Diagonal lines: *slanting *sloping *create fullness *blend long layers



27 Beveling: *stacking *diagonal lines *slight increase/decrease in length


29 Elevation: *hair parted in sections (four) *smaller ~subsections *part or partings ~line dividing the hair

30 Elevation: Known as Projection or Lifting
*angle or degree hair is held, or elevated, from the head *creates graduation ~layers *described in degrees

31 Blunt/one-length haircuts
*no elevation *0 degrees Elevation occurs when: *lift hair above 0 degrees

32 From pictures: ~determine what elevations were used ~create any shape you desire

33 45 and 90 degree *more elevate=more graduation *below 90 degrees ~builds weight *90 degrees or higher ~removing weight


35 Curly hair *use less elevation *leave longer for shrinkage

36 Cutting line: known as cutting position, cutting angle, finger angle, finger position
*angle the fingers are held ~horizontal ~vertical ~diagonal ~by degrees

37 Guidelines: known as guide
*determines the length the hair will be cut ~perimeter (the outer line) ~interior inner or internal line) *first section cut

38 Stationary guide: *does not move *all sections are combed to guide Used in: *blunt haircuts *over-direction ~length or width



41 Traveling guideline: known as movable guideline *moves with haircut
*creates layered haircuts or graduated haircuts

42 Figure 16-22 & 16-23 (traveling guideline)
*guideline travels with you as you work through the haircut *move it to the next subsection where it becomes your new guideline

43 Figure and 16-26 one-length haircut ~no elevation ~diagonal cutting line ~stationary guideline

44 Figure & 16-28 90 degree ~vertical cutting line ~traveling guideline Figure & 16-30 45 degree (stacked effect) ~diagonal cutting line (nape) 90 degree on top

45 Over-direction: *comb hair away from natural falling position *used to create length increase

46 ~stationary guide at back of ear
Longer front: ~stationary guide at back of ear

47 ~stationary guide at front
Shorter front: ~stationary guide at front

48 Client consultation: *find out what client is looking for *offer suggestions *professional advice *joint decision *discuss whether that look is a good choice for the client

49 When not the best look for him/her:
*use gentle persuasion *positive reinforcement *offer alternatives Work with: ~hair texture ~face shape ~lifestyle

50 Analyze: *clean *unstyled hair Client: *ask you about their hair *tell you about their hair *ask you for suggestions

51 Factors to consider: *hair type *time *lifestyle *classic or trendy

52 Analyze: *density *texture *growth patterns *hairline

53 Face shape: *pull hair away *widest areas *narrowest areas
*balance of features

54 Look for: *features to bring out *de-emphasize *weight and volume draw attention

55 Wide face ~ fuller sides ~appears wider ~narrow shape (style) ~length to face Long face ~give fullness on sides ~adds width

56 Narrow forehead ~increase volume and width To balance ~draw eye away from certain areas ~add or remove weight/volume

57 Consider: *profile ~from the side ~pull hair away *features to emphasize *features to de-emphasize ~prominent or receding chin ~double chin ~overly large nose

58 Prominent/receding chin

59 Large nose Double chin

60 Type of part: *natural *center *side

61 Use parts of face and body:
*points of reference ~chin length ~shoulder length

62 Hair shrinks when dry: *1/4” to ½” *cut longer Curly hair * ½ ” to 2” or more

63 Hairlines: *hairline *outermost perimeter

64 Growth Patterns: *direction grows from scalp ~cowlicks ~whorls ~affects where hair ends up *use less tension

65 Nape: *less tension *avoid getting “hole” Crown: *be careful

66 Density: # of individual hair strands on 1 square inch ~thin ~medium ~thick

67 Texture: thickness of each hair strand ~course ~medium ~fine

68 *different hair types ~respond differently to the same type of cutting ~some need more layers ~some need more weight

69 Coarse: *sticks out if too short Fine: *cut very short, still lies flat *scalp shows

70 Wave pattern: *amount of movement in hair strand *same length on different hair=different results Review top of page

71 *use only high-quality implements
Haircutting tools: *use only high-quality implements *use properly *take care of them

72 Shears: *cut blunt/straight lines *slide cut *point cut *texturizing techniques

73 $



76 Texturizing shears: *remove bulk Called: *thinning shears
*tapering shears *notching shears

77 *more teeth=less hair removed
Notching shears *remove more hair *larger teeth *farther apart

78 Straight razors or feather blades:
*softer effect *entire haircut *thin hair out *texturize *different shapes and sizes *with or without guards



81 Clippers: *short haircuts *tapers *fades *flat tops

82 *without guard shave to scalp *guards-various lengths
*clipper-over-comb ***use on longer hair also DEMO

83 Trimmers: known as edgers *smaller *remove hair at neckline
*around ears *crisp outlines *shape-ups

84 Clips: Please, Please, Please… *long hair-butterfly clips *short hair-duckbills

85 Wide-tooth comb: *detangle hair Tail comb: *section

86 Barber comb: *close tapers *scissor-over-comb Styling comb: *used most

87 All About Shears Most important tool Have the right type, size, and make of shear for you One that fits and is comfortable

88 Steel Primary manufacturers: Japan, Germany, United States Gauge the hardness of the metal: *can the shear hold a sharp edge for an extended period of time Too soft-sharpened more often Rockwell hardness ideal 63 or over-too hard=brittle-can break while using

89 Forged versus Cast Shears
Molten steel poured into a mold Metal cools-takes the shape of the mold Disadvantages: *if dropped-could shatter *if bent-cannot be bent back Usually less expensive

90 Forged Working metal by hammering or pressing Metal is heated, cooled, repeated Similar in price as cast shears Much higher quality and durability Lasts significantly longer than cast shears

91 Some have handles welded to the blades
Usually blades are made with harder metal than handles Can be repaired or adjusted by a technician

92 Parts of a Shear Cutting edge does the cutting Pivot and adjustment area makes the shears cut Adjustment knob *when tightened-pulls blades together so hair does not fall or slide between the blades Finger tang-pinky-less stressed and pressure is relieved More control over the shear

93 Ring finger hole----for the RING finger
Thumb hole---should only go to or slightly over the cuticle Shear Maintenance Daily cleaning and lubrication Wipe off between each client---use scissor oil Keep blades lubricated- reduces friction-makes shears last longer-less sharpening needed

94 Daily adjustment and balancing
Tension too loose---shears will fold the hair Too tight---cause shears to bind---unnecessary wear, user fatigue Test for tension---DEMO

95 Weekly cleaning and lubricating
Carefully open shears to a 90 degree angle Loosen the adjustment knob enough so a paper towel slides between the pivot point Push out any hair and debris Place one or two drops between the blades Do not put oil on adjustment knob.

96 Disinfect after each client Clean shears with soap and water
Disinfecting shears Disinfect after each client Clean shears with soap and water Completely submerge in an EPA-registered disinfectant spray Thoroughly dry the shears Relubricate your blades

97 (not every time the sharpening technician comes to the salon)
Sharpening shears Only sharpen as needed (not every time the sharpening technician comes to the salon) The better you care for your shears, the longer the edge will last Go one year or longer between sharpening Have a factory-certified technician sharpen your shears Or send to the manufacturer for service

98 Read: Did you know? Page 357 and 358
Left-handed versus Right-handed Shears Blades are reversed Use the correct shear for your dominant hand

99 Purchasing shears Know how the shear was manufactured Ask about steel quality Decide on the right blade edge (convex edge is best) Decide on the best handle design *opposing grip *offset grip *full offset or crane grip (anatomically correct) *releases pressure and stress on the nerves and tendons

100 Be sure the shear fits properly
*finger-fitting system-exact size of your ring finger and thumb A proper fit ensures maximum performance, comfort, and control Read: Here’s a Tip

101 Hold the shears in your hand
You need to feel the shears in your hand before you buy them Make sure manufacturer offers a 30-day trial period *if not satisfied exchange or return for a full refund

102 Swivel thumb shears Provides great comfort and control More relaxed working posture Ask about the service agreement Certified person in area to sharpen Or send away to be sharpened

103 Ask about the warranty Warranty period is Exactly what is covered Analyze the cost of the shears High-quality steel New cosmetologist-spend between $250-$350.

104 Determine how many pairs of shears you need
Rule of thumb: two shears (in case something happens to favorite shear) One thinning or blending shear Read: Here’s a Tip and both Did you know? and Types of texture shears

105 Custom-fitted Shears Properly fitted protects you from long-term repetitive motion injuries *carpal tunnel syndrome or musculoskeletal disorders Prevention is the key Your hand’s main job is the steer the shear- correct blade tension does the cutting

106 Buying and using ergonomically correct and custom-fitted shears
Allows you to relax your grip *reducing thumb pressure *keeps blades sharper, longer Reduces pressure on nerves and tendons (prevents damage) Allows the shears to do the cutting

107 1. Fitting the Shear Correctly
Ring finger-hole rests between the first and second knuckle 2. Fitting the thumb Thumb hole will rest at or slightly over the cuticle area of your thumb 3. Relaxing your grip Allows you to cut without any thumb pressure

108 Correct finger position and alignment
Crucial to having a healthy career Correct finger position allows your fingers to stay properly aligned Notice where her thumb is placed

109 Holding your tools properly: *most control *best results
*avoid muscle strain


111 Holding your shears: *ring finger *thumb *move only thumb

112 Shears and comb: *at the same time *dominant hand ~holds shears ~parts Shears and comb: *at the same time *dominant hand ~holds shears ~parts ~combs ~cuts

113 ~holds the sections while cutting ~holds comb
*holding hand ~holds the sections while cutting ~holds comb

114 *curl fingers to “palm” shears *keep blades closed
Palming the shears: *remove thumb *curl fingers to “palm” shears *keep blades closed Transferring the comb: *between thumb and index finger

115 Holding the razor *entire haircuts *detailing *texturizing

116 Method A: *open razor ~handle is higher *little finger in tang *position ~top of subsection ~part facing you

117 Method B: *handle and shank are in straight line *thumb on grip ~wrap fingers around

118 *palm when combing Accidents: *when combing ~not cutting

119 Handling the Comb: *wide teeth ~combing ~parting

120 *finer teeth ~comb before cutting ~more tension ~ears ~difficult hairlines ~curly hair

121 Tension *amount of pressure ~stretching ~pulling *minimum to maximum *consistent tension ~constant even results

122 *maximum tension ~straight hair ~precise lines *less tension ~curly, wavy hair ~less shrinkage

123 Minimum tension: *ears *hairlines

124 Posture and Body Position:
*important *avoid future back problems *better haircutting results *move more efficiently *more control In the next slide, who’s body position is a bad choice?


126 Position the client *sitting upright ~legs not crossed ~facing mirror ~see what you are doing ***standing if hair is long

127 Center your weight *body centered and firm *knees slightly bent Sitting: *both feet on floor

128 Work in front of your section
* directly in front of area cutting *position hands to cutting line

129 Hand Positions: *cutting over fingers ~top of knuckles ~uniform or
increasing layers

130 *cutting below fingers ~one-length bob ~heavier graduated cuts
~horizontal cutting line ~inside knuckles Blessinghandsbeautysalon.cpm

131 *cutting palm-to-palm
~vertical ~diagonal ~maintains control ~hands face each other ~prevents strain on your back


133 Safety in Haircutting *accidents can happen *protect yourself and clients *palm shears and razor while combing *shears closed ~pointed away from client

134 Not past second knuckle
Ears ~take extra care ~lots of blood

135 Bangs (fringe) ~balance shears on index finger ~prevents poking client ~cleaner line

136 Razor ~with guard ~take care removing and disposing old blade ~empty perm bottle, or wrap with scotch tape

137 Basic Haircuts Blunt haircut: *one-length *weight line Weight line: visual line in a haircut

138 *horizontal, diagonal, rounded
*zero/no elevation *stationary guide *horizontal, diagonal, rounded *use on finer hair ~appears thicker


140 Graduated haircut *low-to-medium elevation *over-direction *45 degrees *buildup of weight *ends appear to be “stacked”


142 Layered haircut *higher elevations *90 degrees and above *less weight *create movement ~volume *traveling and or stationary guideline




146 Long-layered haircut *180 degrees *more volume *shorter on top ~longer layers at perimeter

147 Clinic floor: *two 180 degree haircuts used In Lesson Book… *Shortened 180 (write this) Use on medium-long length hair


149 Extended 180 (write this) *Mrs. Kucas’ way ~use for long-very long hair *both maintains weight in perimeter




153 Every haircut uses: ~one ~two ~three of these techniques

154 *add ~texturizing ~slide cutting ~scissor-over-comb gives you advanced haircutting *unlimited shapes and effects

155 Focus on: General Haircutting Tips
clean consistent partings ~more precise results extra care (danger zones) ~crown ~neckline

156 Danger zone ~ears ~keep weight ~minimal tension consistent tension ~maximum to minimum ~light tension-wide teeth

157 Head position ~if not upright may alter elevation and over- direction Even moisture ~variable wetness=uneven results

158 Work with guideline ~cannot see guide *subsection too thick ~BIG section=BIG mistake

159 Cross-check ~part opposite way you cut Ex. Vertical partings for cut/ horizontal partings to check for precision

160 Use mirror ~even lines ~maintains visual balance Check both sides Curly hair ~shrinks ½-2”

161 Blunt haircut Known as bob, one-length, one-level, pageboy, bowl haircuts *head upright and straight *bent forward ~line will not fall as you cut it ~some graduation you did not want

162 *use little or no tension
*length past shoulders ~minimal tension *long hair (below the back of the styling chair) ~client stands up

163 Beware of crown area (danger zone)
*growth patterns *cut this area at the very end of the haircut *or cut it slightly longer *once hair is dry, match the length to the guideline

164 Another danger zone---ears
Very little or no tension Blunt cuts can be designed with or without bangs (fringe) *on straight, or curly hair *short, medium, or long length

165 ~diagonal cutting line
Other blunt cuts *A-line ~diagonal cutting line

166 *horizontal finger angle *little tension On curly hair
Longer blunt *horizontal finger angle *little tension On curly hair *naturally graduates

167 “Bowl” shape ~perimeter is curved ~horizontal and curved cutting lines Hairstyles-tips.blogspotcom

168 Focus on: Tips *minimal/no tension *use natural growth patterns
*head upright *comb twice before cutting

169 *even moisture *crown/hairline *ears ~avoid “hole” ***stay centered-bring outside corners to you

170 Graduated *vertical cutting line *45 degree (also 90-degree elevation) *any part (side, center, bang) *stationary and traveling guideline *begins in the back (45-degree elevation throughout) *incorporates sides and top


172 Pictures on side bar *shorter shape *rounded weight *diagonal partings Con’t

173 Sides *elevated *over-directed *more length Back *traveling guideline *each section over-directed to previous section

174 Focus on: Tips *hair “expands” when dry *coarse textures/curly hair ~keep elevation below degrees

175 *fine hair– great for graduation
~builds weight ~thicker/fuller ~avoid heavy weight line ~diagonal partings=softer line ~medium density-safe to elevate

176 *check neckline ~if hair grows straight up -leave longer -graduation lower ~blend -scissor-over-comb *fine teeth ~even tension

177 Uniform-layered *90 degrees *same length *interior traveling guideline *soft and rounded *no weight or corners *perimeter will fall softly due to reduced weight

178 Other examples *1 inch length ~pixie ~crop ~Caesar??? *men and women

179 *keep corners ~fingers vertical ~square shape ~men’s basic haircut


181 Extreme corners…

182 *longer perimeter lengths ~shag ~top area uniform layers
~sides and back straight up ~180 degrees


184 Long-layered haircuts
Interior guide Beginning at the top of the head All hair will be elevated to 180 degrees to match the guide

185 Focus on: Tips *cut interior first ~then perimeter ~on clinic floor *short hair ~best on medium-thick densities ~thin hair exposes scalp

186 *coarse hair ~sticks out if shorter than 3” ~needs extra length *longer layers ~thickness at bottom ~layers too short stringy perimeter

187 *past shoulder blades ~slide cut ~ maximum length weight

188 Other cutting techniques
*create different effects Cutting curly hair *can be a challenge *use any cutting technique *very different results than straight hair

189 Examples Figure 16-94 *hair appears stacked *cut blunt Figure 16-95 *volume *hair shrinks when dry-weight line has graduated itself

190 Tips *curly hair shrinks *use minimal tension ~wide teeth *have consistent dampness

191 *when dry has more volume
~leave longer *no razor ~frizz *texturize carefully ~avoid razor ~use point cutting ~free-hand notching

192 Cutting bangs *England ~fringe *hair that lies between the two front corners *between outer corners of eyes *work with the natural distribution ***one-length/90 degrees

193 ***apex to corners of eyes ~only cut in this area
~more=short pieces where they don’t belong -ruin lines *you need not cut all hair in this area *short bang ~strong statement

194 *long bang ~slide-cut ~wispy effect *few pieces ~small portion ~razor

195 *can be blended or not *blunt cut ~not blended *layered cut ~may want to blend

196 Razor cutting *totally different result *softer appearance *line is not blunt * “feathered” effect on ends *finer blade than shears Shears-two blades blunt ends


198 *create any haircut with razor
*cut horizontal, vertical, or diagonal *guide is above fingers *practice

199 Two methods 1. Parallel to subsection ~thins ends ~entire blade is used 2. Approach subsection at degree angle ~one-third blade used ~small strokes

200 *move ~top to bottom ~side to side

201 Focus on: Tips *hair in good condition Not on: ~curly ~coarse, wiry ~over-processed ~damaged hair

202 *use guard *use new blade ~dull blade-painful ~discard safely *keep hair wet ~frizz ~painful *work at an angle ~never force

203 Slide cutting *fingers and shears glide along edge of hair *removes length *blending shorter to longer *texturizing

204 *layer very long hair *keep weight *blade partially open *on wet hair *layer very long hair *keep weight *blade partially open *on wet hair *very sharp shears

205 Razor on outside edge of shears (both sides)
Sumukai $395.00

206 Two methods *visualize the line before you cut Hold subsection with tension beyond cutting line ***interior 2. Place shears on top of knuckles ~both hands move simultaneously out to the ends ***perimeter


208 Scissor-over-comb *barbering technique *hold hair in place with comb *tips of shears removes length *very short tapers *extremely short to longer lengths

209 *start at hairline *work your way up *dry hair ~see how much ~maintain control *lift away from head *do not hold between fingers

210 *shear and comb ~ move simultaneously up the head *cut with even rhythm *stopping ~causes “steps” ~visible weight line (not wanted)

211 Basic steps 1. stand in front of section *eye level 2. comb, teeth first in hairline *teeth are angled away from the head

212 3. still blade (ring finger) ~parallel to comb ~thumb blade -smoothly

213 4. angle comb away from head as you move up
*avoid cutting into the length

214 Focus on: Tips *work small areas *start at hairline ~work up *cross-check *barber comb ~close to head

215 Texturizing *remove excess bulk ~without shortening length *use for effect ~wispy ~spiky

216 *add volume *done with cutting shears, *remove volume thinning shears,
*make move or razor *blend *for different densities

217 Texturizing with Shears
*point cutting ~cut ends of hair using tips, or points of shears *wet or dry *hold hair 1-2” from ends

218 *tips of scissors point into the ends *close scissors
~move away from fingers *cut “points” *more vertical ~removes less *diagonal ~removes more ~chunkier effect



221 Notching *more aggressive *chunkier effect *toward the ends
*hold 3” from ends

222 *tips of shears in 2” from ends
*close shears as you move quickly to the ends *wet or dry Hair

223 Notching/texturizing Notching/texturizing

224 Free-hand notching *use tips of shears *snip out pieces
***random intervals *interior *use on curly hair ~releases curl ~removes some density

225 Another Free-hand notching technique

226 Slithering *effilating *thinning hair to graduated lengths *sliding movement

227 *blades partially open
*reduces volume *creates movement


229 *never completely close scissors
Slicing *removes bulk *adds movement *never completely close scissors *use blade near pivot *prevents removing large pieces

230 *within subsection or on the surface of the hair
*shears or texturizing shears *wet or dry *dry ~see what you are taking away


232 Carving *visual separation *short hair *place still blade in hair ~resting on scalp

233 *move through ~gently opening and partially closing *horizonal ~removes more *vertical ~removes less

234 Texturizing with the Razor
*removes weight ~thin out ends *damp hair *razor flat ~2-3”away from fingers

235 *gently stroke ~removing a thin “sheet” *tapers the ends

236 Free-hand slicing *wet hair *midshaft *comb hair out from head *hold fingers close to ends

237 *use TIP of razor ~slice out pieces *vertical ~less removed *horizontal ~more removed *releases weight

238 Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor
Removing bulk or removing weight ~thinning shears ~same sectioning as the haircut *comb hair away from head ~stay 4-5” away from scalp

239 *may repeat towards ends
*coarse hair ~farther from scalp *blunt cuts ~avoid top surfaces ~see lines *curly hair ~free-hand notching

240 Removing weight from ends
*thinning shears *tapers perimeter *elevating subsection ~thinning shears at angle ~close shears a few times ~work toward ends

241 Scissor-over-comb with thinning shears
*good way to master technique *blending weight lines *sides and nape ~hair lies closer to head

242 Other thinning shear techniques
*any technique *fine hair ~avoid over-texturizing ~removing too much weight

243 Free-hand slicing with razor
*ends of hair *softer perimeter *creates separation

244 *hold small piece of hair
~vertically *3” from fingers ~slide down one side ~toward fingers ***not all the way through

245 Razor-over-comb *used on surface of hair *softens weight lines *lies closer to head ~shorter haircuts

246 Two ways: Comb in hair ~teeth down ~above area ~make small, gentle strokes -on top of comb ~on surface of hair

247 *move comb down ~move razor down *tapering nape *soften weight lines

248 2. Razor rotation *small circular motions *comb hair in direction desired *place razor on surface of hair ***behind comb *comb to follow razor *soften texture *gives direction

249 Review the pictures showing texturizing techniques
Figure Figure free -hand razor slicing Figure Figure free-hand scissors slicing Figure Figure notching the ends and free- hand notching

250 Clippers and Trimmers *electric *battery-operated *shorter haircuts ~I beg to differ

251 *create tapers (now called fades) ~very close to hairline
~gradually get longer *men and women


253 *without length guards ~removes hair completely ~necklines
~around ears

254 *without ~taper hairlines ~extremely short to longer
*clipper-over-comb ~side-to-side

255 *with length guards ~attachments ~1/8th-1”

256 Tools for Clipper Cutting Clippers ~different shapes and sizes
~with or without attachments Trimmers ~edgers ~cordless, smaller

257 *spray disinfectant spray ~running blades
Clean: *after each use-brush *spray disinfectant spray ~running blades ~hold down *add one or two drops of oil ~running blades ~sides

258 *disinfect detachable blades or guards
Length guard attachments ~cut all hair evenly ~1/8th-1” ~different combinations/different lengths


260 Haircutting shears ~remove length ~detailing Thinning shears ~blending/tapering scissors ~remove bulk ~blending

261 Combs ~regular cutting ~wide-teeth -combing and cutting ~finer teeth -detailing -scissor-over-comb -clipper-over-comb

262 *barbering ~nape ~ears ~very short *wide-toothed ~thicker ~longer

263 Wide-toothed-open end makes parting easier
Carbon cutting comb $5.00 excellent Wide-toothed-open end makes parting easier

264 ***different from scissor-over-comb
Clipper-over-comb *close *flat-top *square shape *keep comb in position ***different from scissor-over-comb *angle of comb ~determines amount cut

265 *dry hair to slightly damp hair
*lever switch ~numbered attachments ~vary the distance

266 Tips 1. stand in front ~eye level 2.comb, teeth first ~hairline ~angled slightly away ~work against growth pattern

267 ~cut the length against comb
3. hold comb stationary ~cut the length against comb ~move clipper right to left 4. movements fluid ~previous section is guideline

268 Clipper with attachments
*quick and easy *1/4” guard on nape and sides ~swicth to ½” as you reach the *parietal ridge ~more length ~square shape

269 Tips *work against growth *ensures lifting ~cutting evenly *use small sections *clipper-over-comb ~no wider than 3” across comb

270 C-O-C *angle determines length *parallel to head ~same length up head *angled away ~begin to increase length

271 Men’s basic *close bottom and sides *positioned ~horizontally ~vertically ~diagonally

272 Using trimmers *ears-hold edger sideways *outer edge on the skin *comb holds hair *ears ~arcing motion *neckline ~more defined lines at the perimeter

273 Trimming facial hair *use clippers/trimmers-beards and mustaches *similar to C-O-C ~cut against the comb ~length guard attachments *shears ~less expensive pair ~very coarse/dulls scissors

274 Excess hair on eyebrows/in ears
~eyebrows-always ask client first *remove *shears or trimmers *using complete focus Review Service Tips in Procedure pages after next two slides

275 Shape-up use eyebrow pencil to draw line if needed

276 The ultimate in clipper cutting!!! The ultimate in clipper cutting!!!

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