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Anatomy of a Clutch Basket Replacement Daniel M. O'Brien, (c) 2003 Converted to PowerPoint by Janice Clanfield, 2008.

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Presentation on theme: "Anatomy of a Clutch Basket Replacement Daniel M. O'Brien, (c) 2003 Converted to PowerPoint by Janice Clanfield, 2008."— Presentation transcript:

1 Anatomy of a Clutch Basket Replacement Daniel M. O'Brien, (c) 2003 Converted to PowerPoint by Janice Clanfield, 2008

2 Put the bike on center stand, not absolutely necessary, but helpful for draining fluids

3 This is the clutch side of the engine case, where the glass oil sight is

4 Drain the oil while hot, the chin guard will be removed after draining the oil

5 A set of hex bits sockets really help a lot

6 Remove the nose piece, and right side fairing, the engine guards keep the fairing from coming off easily, so I had to remove the black piece from the fairing first

7 And leave the black piece in place, no need to remove it, note the radiator cap, don't remove it yet!

8 Here are our body parts removed, fairing, chin guard, and nose piece

9 Next we drain the coolant

10 Remove the lower coolant drain hole, it will drip just a little, put a container under it, remove the radiator cap, and watch out as it comes out fast! there's another drain hold to the right, follow manual

11 Remove the radiator hoses from the water pump, a 1/4" hand driver works well with a 6mm socket, two hoses need it, other is simple squeeze clamp, note the pan below to catch incidental coolant and oil (don't tell my spouse, but its her turkey pan)

12 Water pump housing showing the three connections with hoses removed (I don't know why, but this picture is one of my favorite)

13 Need to remove right hand footpeg, again, hex bit sockets are the best

14 Peg and brake pedal come off as unit, twist out of the way

15 The brakelight switch spring comes off the brake pedal and just moves up out of the way

16 Remove the water pump housing (remove all the housing perimeter bolts), leaving the "O" ring (not really an O is it?), note the impeller, you will have to turn this to get the impeller shaft into its gear when installing the clutch cover

17 Then remove the clutch cover housing by removing all the perimeter bolts first, then it just pulls off, there will be some extra drainage, thus the pan

18 Next, again with hex bit socket, remove the clutch pressure plate springs, loosen all first, then remove opposite bolts, when down to last two loosen both equally until they come out, remove top pressure plate

19 The pressure plate removed, leaves the clutch plates, also remove the clutch rod, bearings and washer are likely stuck to the inside of the top pressure plate

20 Remove the clutch plates (drive and driven), in order, and put them on the pressure plate, note the clutch rod, bearings, and washer

21 All that is left is the inner hub that drives the transmission and the clutch basket that is driven by the engine, note the big nut in the center (30mm or 1 3/16")

22 This nut holds it all together, must relieve the detent with a hammer and chisel

23 Holding the hub with clutch hub tool, use socket and

24 Air impact wrench to make short work of the nut, remove inner hub, leaving

25 The clutch basket which just slides off exposing

26 The bearings the basket rides on (it will slip forward when you pull the clutch basket off), and below is the oil pump gear driven by the clutch basket (make note of this gear, you must align the gear when putting the new clutch basket on!)

27 Note the brass screen trapping major metal filings so they don't flow thru the system, below the oil pump gear

28 The oil pump drive gear is removed from the clutch basket with a ring pliers (see the inner hub next to it)

29 Removing the ring, gear and a type of keyway that engages the oil pump gear with the clutch basket, these are reused in the new basket

30 As you go along, keep all related fasteners together in bags, fairing and body parts, clutch cover, and clutch pressure springs

31 For the installation section, the most important tool is the Service Manual -- don't proceed without it! Torque Specs are in the back if not in the specific procedures (clutch cover, foot peg)

32 Here are all the parts that we are replacing, clutch basket (comes with new hub sleeve), clutch cover gasket, water pump O ring, clutch hub nut and convex washer. Here's my order, all of these should be replaced together. 21200-06811 GEAR ASSY,PRIMA = $182.48 09164-24006 WASHER CL SLEEV = $1.48 11482-06G00 GASKET,CLUTCH C = $6.51 17435-02F00 O-RING,WATER PU = $4.36 09159-24010 NUT = $5.25 Subtotal: $200.08 Shipping: $15.00 Grand Total: $215.08

33 Here's a detail of the new design clutch basket, "I think I'll call him... Lil' John!"

34 I was suprised to find the clutch hub sleeve with the new basket, not sure why they are replaced as a unit since there is a bearing set that is reused

35 "There she is, Miss America..." or is that Miss Universe, anyway, she's exposing herself a bit, but don't worry, the doctor will soon take care of this

36 Remove the old clutch hub sleeve and bearing, clean it off well, then lubricate the shaft and the inside of the new sleeve with oil, slip it on

37 And then slide the old bearing over the new sleeve and lubricate it well

38 Install the old oil pump drive gear, keyway, and snap ring on the new clutch basket

39 Slip clutch basket on the clutch hub and wiggle it back and forth to engage the drive gear, THEN

40 Wiggle the oil pump drive gear so that it also engages, so you can slide the clutch basket all the way back

41 Slip on thrust bearing washer, and then the inner hub

42 Slip on the flat washer and the NEW convex washer, note the orientation of the convex washer

43 Put on the new clutch hub nut

44 Tighten hub nut with torque wrench to 108.5 ft-lbs, you will need the clutch hub holding tool again

45 Next with chisel and hammer, make a detent on the clutch hub nut

46 Close up of the clutch hub nut, this sucker ain't going nowhere!

47 Put the drive and driven plates back in the order they came out, if you've mixed them up, then you need to review the manual and take measurements to determine which kind of plate goes where

48 Fuzzy picture of last drive plate, goes into OTHER slot

49 Reinstall clutch push rod, oiled bearings and flat washer

50 Reinstall pressure plate

51 And pressure plate spring, hand tightened

52 Tighten them down in a diagonal fashion, torquing to specs (read the manual)

53 All done, nicely torqued

54 Install the new gasket

55 Note the slot in the upper gear....

56 This slot will match the tab on water pump impellor, you may have to turn the impeller to get the tab to line up with the slot on the gear

57 Put the clutch cover back on, aligning everything including the water pump impeller, should slip on all the way around by hand, ya, you can hit it with your fist, but it must fit flat before putting in the bolts

58 Put the "O" ring into the water pump housing cover, manual says to apply a little grease to the O-ring

59 Sort out all the bolts and put them into the holes accordingly, hint: the three longest go into the water pump housing, torque it all down by slowly tightening opposite bolts a little at a time, torque to specifications, go slow!

60 Now put all the hoses back to proper places

61 Install the foot peg, torque to specifications

62 Refill crankcase with favorite oil

63 I reused my old coolant since it only had 350 miles on it, and used new premixed coolant to top off

64 Follow service manual procedures for clearing air in the coolant system, keep topping off. Several starts, bike on side stand, heat/cool cycles, etc, to clear the air. May still suck coolant out of the overflow tank next few days

65 While engine is running, heating, put on chin guard (the "big-o" screw driver handle was used to tap the thermostat housing on the opposite side while the engine was running to dislodge any air bubbles)

66 Button everything up, right side fairing, nose piece, AND YOU ARE DONE!

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