2Picture shows nearside suspension prior to dismantling Picture shows nearside suspension prior to dismantling. The car is resting on axle stands positioned under the crossmember. A wooden packing piece is used to protect the chassis – just visible to the right of the steering rack boot.The anti-roll bar has already been detached from the chassis and opposite suspension link.DAMPER TOP MOUNTWISHBONE PIVOTSPRING &DAMPERWISHBONESTEERINGRACKTOPBALLJOINTANTI-ROLLBARBRAKEDISCHUBBRAKEBACKPLATEBRAKECALIPERHUB NUTDUST CAP
3Prise off the steel cap that protects the bearings from dirt ingress…
4With the split pin removed, the hub nut can be undone. It should not be tight.
5On this car, the braking system had already been drained and new flexible hoses were to be fitted. Here, the rigid line coupling is undonewith a 13mm spanner to allow…
6… the flexible line to be detached from the chassis bracket. A 15mm and a 17mm spanner will be required.
7The flexible line can be detached from the brake caliper in the same manner. Use a 19mm spanner or socket to loosen and remove thetwo bolts securing the caliper to its mounting, and remove the caliper.
8With the caliper removed, the hub nut can be removed toallow the hub and brake disc tobe lifted off.The inner grease seal has beenprised from its recess…
9… and here the bolts that secure the brake backplateare being removed with a13mm spanner.
10Removal of the two lower bolts (14mm) allows the brakebackplate and the steering armto be removed.The front bolt has a nut on theback…
11… and will require the Nyloc to be held whilst the bolt is undone.
12With the backplate and steering arm removed, the brake caliper mounting plate can be lifted off. This method saves having to disturbthe track rod end if it does not need replacing.
14…and the two bolts that clamp the top wishbone to the topballjoint (not shown butshould be obvious).Then the upright can be liftedaway from the lower link.The trolley jack is easing theload off the trunnion and topballjoint mounts to makeextracting the bolts easier.
15With the trunnion out of the way, it is now possible to gain access to the anti-roll bar end nut (a Nyloc) with a 19mm spanner.It may well be fairly seized.
16On this ARB the rubber bushes are completely wrecked. Note the two washers (one with a tapered side to the centre hole) and thedistance piece (tube) through the centre of the bushes. It is alsopossible to make out a crack in the Nyloc nut…!
17Loosen the upper and lower damper mountings, then installa pair of spring compressors(not visible here).The spring can then becompressed…
18Once the spring is under a degree of compression,remove the damper topmounting nuts and bushes,prise the damper out of itsupper mounting and compressit down into the spring.Picture shows a large spannerbeing used as a lever to pushthe damper down.
19With the spring and damper disengaged from their topmountings, the spring canbe simply lifted off thelower link.Removal of the damper lowermounting nut and bolt willallow the damper to beextracted from the link.Note that although there is arubber spring seat in the topmounting, the lower end ofthe spring sits directly onthe lower link platform.
20Removal of the pivot bolt and nut will allow the lowerlink to be removedfrom its mounting.Similarly, the two halves ofthe top wishbone can beremoved once their pivotstud is extracted. The bodyshellhas holes in the foot-wells to allow access forsockets, drifts etc.Note that the pivots may wellbe rusted into the bushesand/or the chassis.