Presentation on theme: "2013 Cabin Construction Packet Following slides will assist with completing the required wall sections, transverse sections, and elevations. Note: dimensions."— Presentation transcript:
2013 Cabin Construction Packet Following slides will assist with completing the required wall sections, transverse sections, and elevations. Note: dimensions are shown only for your information / you do not need to include on your work.
Complete Transverse Section:
Start with footing and foundation wall. Footing has “Keyway” struck in it via 2x4. Exact dims loose / aim for 1 ½” deep.
Floor Pack: Add first stage of carpentry. FYI Actual lumber dimensions: 2x4: 1.5x3.5 2x6: 1.5x5.5 2x8: 1.5x7.25 2x10: 1.5x9.25 2x12: 1.5x11.25 Etc…
Draw a #5 anchor bolt. Note: top of bar stock would be threaded at least 1” down.
Move it into position. *It really is installed while concrete is wet / before the deck phase begins.
Start Stud Walls: Offset the top edge of the plywood subfloor to the desired height of the walls. We’ll use 8’.
Stud Walls: Next draw a line from the new offset line down to the top of the plywood and offset (to the right) for a 2x4 (3.5”).
Stud Walls: Add…
Stud Walls: And add…
Add ¾” sheathing from top of double plate to bottom of box sill. *Note lines are offset at.25” to depict ply layers. *Sheathing is typically either plywood or OSB (Orientated Strand Board).
Rafter / Roof Phase: Roofs are “measured” by rise over run. Common terms would be 5:12, 6:12, 8:12, 12:12, etc. The second number is typically always 12. The lower the first number, the less steep the roof. The higher the first number, the steeper the roof. Our cabin will have a 6:12 pitch.
Start by drawing a 12” horizontal line left to right. Next, draw a 5” vertical line. Connect the ends.
Next, move the diagonal line from it’s lower left endpoint to the top right endpoint of the double plate.
Offset rafter height: we’ll use a 2x12 rafter to ensure enough depth for proper insulation (R38), so use offset.
Roof Overhang: Offset the outside sheathing edge 3’-5”.
Use fillet (radius 0) to merge the lines together. *Note: be sure to trim the lower rafter line out of the double plate & plywood.
Add 5/8” sheathing on top of the rafter & 2x10 block above the double plate.
Next Steps: Enclosing the eave…
Add Rigid Insulation… (*Hatch details next slides)
Pan/zoom to display FULL hatch area on screen. “H” enter. Select Hatch pattern as Ansi37
Select a pink color (241 works well) Change scale to 10
Hover your mouse in the- fully-enclosed hatch area and left click. The hatch pattern, color, and scale will fill the area. Finish by clicking on “Close Hatch Creation” button in upper right corner.
Start Brick or Stone Veneer Wall…
Finish of Brick or Stone Veneer Wall
Getting there! Your drawing should be complete in terms of structure and enclosure… Now a just a few details… Next steps: Rebar in footing Add a grade line (dirt level) Hatch areas below grade Insulate
Show Rebar (reinforcement bar) in footing. *These would be added during the pour process. **Green lines to be erased- only used to locate… Draw two circles with 5/8” diameter (5/16” radius). They must not be higher than 2” off the bottom of the footing and no lower than 1 ½” above ground level.
Hatch footing and foundation wall using “AR-CONC” at scale “1”. Color should be concrete color / a light gray.
Draw grade line 6” below top of foundation wall. Line must be sloped away from wall (drain away). Line should look like example; it’s not totally flat (it’s earth not a parking lot!)… and should not be too jagged looking (i.e. moonscape).
Add grass… Offset grade lines 3” up and draw a few “blades of grass.”
OPTIONAL / P.S.A.: A brick sill is created by framing a “block” in the form before the concrete is poured. This creates a lower level in the foundation wall for masonry to start on. The level may be flush or even below grade line. A brick sill aesthetically allows for the masonry to appear to be rising right out of grade.
Mortar Ramp: A Mortar Ramp will help water flow to the drain tile. Draw a line from the top left (outside) corner of the footing back to the foundation wall. Angle of line should be 30 degrees or less. Basically, you just need a “ramp” to encourage water to run down off the top of the footing. Real construction: simply jump in the hole with a bucket of mortar and a trowel and hand apply.
Add Rigid Insulation: *Every inch of rigid insul thickness = a thermal rating of R5. Higher the R value, the better the heat/cool retention. Start the rigid at the top of the mortar ramp, show as 1.5” thick, and chose a height that ends just below grade level (mine was 30”). Stop the insul just below grade as its not aesthetic to look at (but obviously this leaves a weak spot in the thermal building envelope).
Drain Tile: A drain tile is a corrugated and perforated flexible hose (typically black). Depending upon soil conditions, it may have a “sock” wrapped on it to prevent sand / dirt from seeping into the hose and blocking flow. Goal of the drain tile is to collect ground water and pitch it down to collection points (sump pit) where it can be pumped away from structure. The red lines represent where the drain tile may fall as it pitches high to low along the footing perimeter. Pitch of the drain tile may be as little as 1/8” per foot.
Creating Hatch boundaries for undisturbed soil, gravel, top soil, and compacted fill (soil). Use “pline” to draw the red line in step 1. Use “pline” to draw the green lines in step 2.
Add the remaining plines for boundary areas.
Hatch the top soil: ANSI37 pattern Scale 5 Color 36
Hatch the compacted fill: EARTH pattern Scale 8 Angle 45 Color 35
Hatch the undisturbed soil: EARTH pattern Scale 8 Angle 0 Color 35
Hatch the gravel: GRAVEL pattern Scale 2 Color 253
Draw 4” Concrete Floor Slab. Draw a line to close the space (red line) and hatch. Match prop (“MA”) of hatch to foundation wall. Draw boundary line (yellow line) for gravel under slab and hatch. Hatch mortar ramp with ARSAND, scale.5, color… well, mortar color…
What your drawing should look like. Next: Batt Insulation (Pink Panther stuff)
To depict Batt Insulation, first check to see if the linetype is loaded into you CAD environment. Pull down the Properties icon, check the line style menu for “BATTING”… if you don’t have it, select “Other” and then hit the “Load” button upper right corner of the new menu. Select BATTING and click ok.
Draw a 24” horizontal line from the mid of your box sill going left. Select the line (click on it) and pull down your linetype menu; assign BATTING. Scale of the line might need some adjusting… See next slide…
Left click on the BATT line and then right click. Scroll down to 2 nd from bottom: “Properties.” A menu will appear on left side of your screen. Drive to Linetype scale and drive the number up or down depending on how your line looks. End goal: make it fit inside the floor joist bay. Last step: make the color pink.
Next: draw line down mid of stud bay and match (ma) to batt insulation line in floor joist bay. Adjust LT (linetype) scale… (example went to 0.1 to fit).
Rafter Insulation: Create a hidden line with 1” offset from inside plywood edge / top of rafter edge. This represents a vent cavity allowing for air to flow from ridge to eave. Next, draw a BATTING line to represent the insulation (LT scale 0.35 worked for my drawing).
Finalized Wall Section
Creating a Transverse Section Copy an end wall portion of your floor plan- repeat- COPY (as in don’t use the original). Rotate the copied image per screen right. Copy your completed wall section and place the copy near the rotated floor plan.
Align the wall section with the floor plan… Step 1: Draw a line to identify a shared location. Example to the right shows a line from the outmost edge of the floor plan wall (red line). Wall section was then moved to have it’s outmost edge of the masonry align with the red line. (see next slide for enlarged views)
Temp red line starts on floor plan drawing at the outside corner and projects down. Wall section drawing is moved so it’s outside most wall edge (masonry edge) falls in the same plane as the red line.
Locate the center of the floor plan drawing (My drawing included the roof overhang hidden line- I used this to grab the midpoint)(…and drew a yellow circle for demo). Draw a “midpoint” vertical line from the floor plan drawing down through the wall section. Use mirror to select the whole wall section drawing, hit enter, choose the mid, and rotate the mouse until you see the mirrored new side. Hit enter…
Extend the following components to the center line: Roof sheathing, rafters, rafter insul, floor joist, subfloor plywood, concrete & floor slab. Delete construction lines (yellow & red lines).
Completed Transverse Section: Depicts total height of structure from finished grade to roof ridge.
Elevations: COPY your floor plan and move to an open area (zoom out). COPY your transverse and move below right or left of the floor plan.
Project horizontal lines off the following 4 points (color code them only if it helps you keep track- I got carried away!).
What it should look like… extend horizontals past the floor plan drawing…
From Floor Plan: Project the roof overhang down through the red ridge line to the cyan bottom-of- fascia line.
Trim out what you don’t need… Left with the elevation view of the roof and fascia.
Project down the outermost wall edges. These will be visible from the bottom of the fascia to the ground line (trim out everywhere else).
Project top of foundation wall across to elevation view (you will have this visible transition between concrete to stone/brick unless you create a brick sill as depicted in slide #33).
Copy the finished grade line you already have drawn. Use the endpoint depicted in the red circle.
Place the finished grade line on the far side of the elevation. You will then MIRROR that grade line to the other side of the elevation.
Finally, replace the green ground line with a line that depicts a little height variation- a flat ground line (it’s dirt) would only happen if you built the structure in a flat paved parking lot…
Add cedar shake shingle hatch (AR- RSHKE) at scale = 1 and color = 35 (light brown).
Add Finished Floor Line (FFL) to your drawing. This line will be part of the final drawing- you need it! FFL line is pulled off the top edge of the plywood subfloor – what you would stand on if you were in the room. It should be a phantom line type and made red. *See slide #46 if you need a refresher for loading another linetype in your drawing environment.
Locating windows and doors… Start by projecting down the left and right edges of the window and door openings from the floor plan.
Windows first… we’ll do the slider last. Offset the FFL line 12” up to establish the bottom of the window unit. Also offset the FFL 6’-9” up to establish the top of the window unit (please note it falls in the fascia area; roof overhangs the wall so this edge will be blocked by the roof overhang. So erase!
Trim and erase what you don’t need. Note I’m leaving the door area alone for the next few steps / concentrating on windows.
Left window: Offset the edge lines in 3” and draw 45 degree lines corner to corner. Either same steps for next widow (slow!)… or simply COPY and move to all other windows (they are the same measure!)
Copy to rear widows as well (if you’re not using copy, you’ll really start feeling the time loss with this step!)
Add 6” tall limestone sill under the windows. It should extend 3” to the left, but flush with the door line (can’t hang into the doorway).
Other windows, too. 3” overhang on both sides… Windows are done!
Sliding Door: Trim / erase construction lines and FFL line to include a 6” tall limestone sill under the door opening. 3” overhangs here too- consistency.
Offset the following. Right door panel can be created by mirroring over the left (and erasing the line that falls behind the left door panel / front panel.
Hatch the masonry area. Use ANSI31 for both stone and brick (others get gaudy!).
Next Elevation: can do all the previous steps… OR… mirror the first elevation.
Next: gable end elevations
Identify the top of the Finish Floor Line: “MA” (Match prop) of the top of the plywood floor to the FFL line from the other elevation.
Also identify the top of the Finish Floor Line of the Crawl Space: “MA” (Match prop) of the top of the concrete floor from the above FFL line.
Erase everything except the following… Obviously (please) make a copy of the original!
Extend all the following: footing lines, FFL lines, masonry lines. Draw in a ground line to connect right and left side. Draw a line from the bottom of the fascia to the other fascia (example is drawn in Cyan).
Change “subterranean” edge lines to hidden linetype. Hint: you will need to trim the conc foundation lines and then redraw the lower segments. I used “MA” to match the linetype to a hidden line I had in the drawing.
Eave detail… Draw the following cyan lines per measurement spec.
Final Eave detail…
Draw in a 6” Limestone sill as follows: it starts at the bottom of the eave.
Copy and rotate a partial end wall of your floor plan and align it above your elevation. Window openings are coming next!
Blue lines: project far right and left opening of window area and trim out masonry lines. Revcloud: I copied the windows (along with a FFL line for reference) and placed the copy next to the elevation- it will fly in next… Q: do you see any advantage for using same-size windows?
Slide windows over ensuring they stay same height off the FFL. Next, mirror the left side to create the missing right.
Mirror and trim / fix masonry lines out of limestone sill area. Offset the FFL line 6’- 9” to establish top of window frame edge.
Draw 1x8 Cedar trim board (actual height is 7.25”). Hatch triangular area with AR-SHKE at scale 1 to represent Cedar Shake Shingles.
Final Elevation Pack: North, South, East and West. *Add the hidden foundation lines to the E/W elevations by copying from the N/S elevations.
Chimney Spec… 3’ above top of ridge per (most) codes. 6” limestone cap with 4” overhang on all sides. Project left and right edges of masonry stack from the FP drawn on the floor plan. And yes, slide #100!!!