How deep can good metal detectors be expected to find coins? This question is much easier to answer nowadays because virtually all modern metal detectors are 'motion' or VLF discriminator types. Most of them are also fitted, as standard, with search coils of around 8" diameter, which is generally regarded as the optimum size for coin hunting on sites with moderate amounts of metallic litter. Using an incorrect sweep-speed will also affect depth, but the following figures are achievable with a correctly used detector: Nickel-Dime sized targets - 4 to 8 inches* Quarter-Half Dollar sized targets - 6 to 12 inches* Fruit jar lid sized targets - 8 to 16 inches*. Many other factors can affect your detector's depth, but the same factors will affect all other detector depths. The two most important things for you to do today are to become familiar with your machine, and to use it at the proper sweep-speed. *Depths vary by model, manufacturer and coil size.
Can one detector 'do it all'? Some of the better 'all purpose' detectors can make a pretty good job of most treasure hunting assignments, but there are certain machines specifically designed for such tasks as underwater work and gold nugget hunting. These specialized types are less adaptable to general-purpose work. Are detectors with lots of knobs better than those with just a few knobs? All detectors fall into one of two classifications; 'turn on and go' or 'do it yourself'. The first group has either a preset ground adjust, or an automatic ground adjust. They do not require any further adjustment by the operator because the electronic circuitry takes care of eliminating mineral effects. The 'do it yourself' group usually have a multi- turn ground adjust knob which must be set to the correct position by the operator. Such machines are generally capable of just a little more depth provided they are set correctly, but they yield much poorer results when incorrectly adjusted. Both 'turn on and go' and 'do it yourself' units can be very effective. What kind of detector should be used for [a] relic hunting and [b] coin hunting? An all-purpose detector will do both jobs, although a larger coil might be an asset whilst relic hunting. For coin hunting, a motion discrimination detector is virtually essential if you wish to avoid digging out every bit of iron you find in the ground. Other features, such as notch discrimination, target identification and coin depth indication can be regarded as optional extras.
What's the difference between concentric and wide scan coils? A concentric coil is better than a wide scan coil at discriminating, but it is much more affected by the soil you are working in. A wide scan coil is less affected by the soil, and can yield superior results in areas of high mineral concentrations such as salt water beaches. Which coil size is best? For an all purpose detector, the standard coil supplied with the unit is usually the optimum size for most hunting. In extremely littered areas, a smaller coil (4" or 7") will usually bring better results; even though the smaller coil has less depth on coin-sized targets, your results will be better because good targets are less likely to be masked out by bad targets lying next to, or over them. When searching in relatively clean and litter free areas, a larger coil (10.5" or 11") will usually yield better depths and a wider area of coverage because masking of good targets is less likely to be a problem. How much discrimination should I use? If you are serious about finding gold rings and gold coins, use as little discrimination as possible. Most gold items are rejected at about the pull-tab level of discrimination. By eliminating pull-tabs, you are also eliminating most gold targets. Even when using a notch discriminator to reject pull-tabs you may lose gold targets which have the same phase response (or 'electronic fingerprint'). A truly serious hunter, and one who has been successful over many years, will have dug many pull-tabs, but that is why he has also found most of his gold targets. With today's motion machines, it is pretty easy to get rid of most of the iron objects, but those iron objects could be masking good targets beneath them.
What is the purpose of notch discrimination? Notch discrimination can be used either to reject a narrow band of targets (a notch reject), or to respond to a narrow band of targets (a notch accept). It is usually used to reject pull- tabs while still finding small coins and gold target that do not have the same response as pull-tabs. The notch level control generates a 'window signal' whose width is set by a small component on the PC board. This 'notch window' can be moved up and down the discrimination range until it properly covers the desired range of target response. If the detector is being used to eliminate the response to the pull-tabs, you must remember that any good targets which have the same phase response as pull-tabs, and which therefore fall within the same window, will also be eliminated. Such good targets consist mainly of gold items and rings. The 'notch accept' feature can be used to tune the detector to a particular type of item, such as a known type of ring. The detector will then only find items which fall within that narrow notch window. Does using notch discrimination cause loss of depth? Yes it can cause a small loss of depth, for two reasons. Firstly, the notch discriminator adds a slight amount of capacitance to the normal discriminating circuit, and this slows the detector's response to targets. Sweep-speed then becomes more critical when seeking deep targets, but if the detector is used at the correct sweep-speed, the loss of depth will not amount to much.
Secondly, Signal strength diminishes at the top and bottom edges of the notch window. As the target approaches the response cut-off of the filters used, its signal weakens. Setting the top and bottom edges of the notch window will cause some loss of depth on those targets. However, a properly adjusted notch window will not cause a great deal of depth loss. How do I adjust the sensitivity control to get maximum depth? First find out which modes are affected by the sensitivity control on your detector. Do it by turning your machine according to the instruction manual, and then waving a good target over the coil with the sensitivity control set first at the maximum, then at the minimum position. If the detecting distance alters, then the sensitivity control is functioning. When using the detector on site, set the sensitivity control as high as ground conditions will allow you to use the machine without too many false signals or spluttering noises. Too many spurious signals will make hearing the weak responses of good, but deep targets difficult. How does target ID work? If you have any kind of discriminating metal detector, you already own a 'do it yourself' ID machine. By increasing the discriminate level until the target disappears, you can tell what the target is. This is done automatically and very rapidly by a target ID detector while you work. Basically, the electronics measure the phase angle of the target at the moment the signal occurs. It generally takes only one pass over the target to get accurate identification, although the earliest models required several swings, which is why they were know as 'pump up' ID detectors.
However, on older sites, many ancient coins and artifacts may show as junk or reject signals. ID detectors therefore are best suited to searching for modern coins. Is manual ground adjust better than fixed ground adjust? A fixed or automatic (ie factory preset) detector will always give good performance, no matter what type of ground you are hunting on. A manually adjusted machine may increase the detection depth by a small amount, but only if the adjustment is very accurately carried out. Incorrect adjustments may give horrendous results. For the average user, a preset or automatic detector's performance is superior to the results that might be obtained with an improperly adjusted manual machine. Are battery test readings accurate? Only if the tests are done while the batteries are delivering the proper amount of current to the detector. Some cheap battery testers, and even some more expensive meters, may give erroneous results when used to test batteries that are not delivering current during the test. An audio test is much more reliable since the audio circuitry loads the battery to the detector's full power while the test takes place. By how much will the use of headphones increase battery life? Since the speakers in most detectors are of 8 or 16 ohms impedance, while most detectors use a resistor of approximately 100 to 200 ohms to limit the sound output in the headphones, the current necessary to drive a set of headphones is considerably smaller than that required to drive the low impedance speaker. Using the figures just given, a set of headphones would increase battery life by 2 or 3 times. However, since the electronic circuitry in the detector is always operating when the machine is switched on, even though the detector may not be making any noises, the savings on battery life may not be as big as the above numbers seem to indicate.
Why does my detector sometimes detect rocks and tree roots? The detection of rocks can be due either to your detector's ground adjust not being set correctly so that typical 'hot rocks' are ignored, or to the rock that you have just found being a truly positive reading mineral sample. Hot rocks are iron ores or magnetite, which are 'negative' with respect to normal ground signals. Their intensities can vary considerably, which makes setting the detector to get rid of all of them a little tricky. Early motion detectors usually 'beeped' at hot rocks, but switching to all metal yielded a 'null' response. Since the hot rock was negative in all metal and also negative in discriminate, both signals were the same, and the detector said 'good target' even though it was really bad. Today, most manufacturers set the ground adjust so that the filtered all metal signal responds in a positive fashion to hot rocks. Therefore, the signals are different, so the detector doesn't beep at negative hot rocks. However, minerals come in many different forms, and some of them are detectable. Tree roots can also absorb various chemicals and end up being electrically conductive. Sometimes, all you can do is grin and bear it. Will meter detectors find coins deeper than non-meter detectors? Not generally. It takes some kind of circuitry to drive the meter, and if that circuitry has more gain than that which drives the speaker, it may be possible to detect deeper with the meter. But virtually all manufacturers realize that if they can get deeper performance, they will add the extra gain to the audio stage as well.
How do I overcome interference from other detectors when I am at a rally? Interference occurs when two detectors of similar frequencies operate in close proximity. The nearer the frequencies, the further apart the two detectors will interact. Crystal controlled detectors are especially prone to this problem because the crystals are very accurate. The only solution in that case is to fit a 'frequency shifter box' or to get further away from the interfering machine. Are 'audio enchanters' any good? They operate by amplifying weak signals and attenuating strong signals. Thus, they tend to make all signals sound alike. They can be helpful when you are hunting in TR discriminate, or in all metal mode, or if your detector has an 'audio threshold'. However, on 'silent search' detectors are less effective, though they do limit the sound in your headphones when you pass over a piece of surface junk. This can add to your comfort during extended search periods. What is ground canceling, and how can I adjust my detector to the right point? Think of ground canceling as being exactly the same thing as discrimination. If your ground control is set too low (counter-clockwise) the detector will 'reject' the ground. If your ground control is set too high (clockwise) the detector will 'find' the ground by beeping as the coil approaches the ground. Your aim is to set the ground control so that the detector remains neutral to the ground, or doesn't see the ground at all. It will then detect as deep in the ground as it does in the air. To accomplish this, first tune the detector to a threshold tone while holding the coil in the air. Then lower the coil to the ground and listen. If the threshold dies away, turn the ground control in a clockwise direction. If the threshold tone gets very loud, turn the ground control counter-clockwise. Next, raise the coil, retune to a threshold tone and repeat the above operations. When you get it right, the sound will change very little as you lower the coil.
Why does my detector find large deep nails and rusty iron even when set to reject pull- tabs? Unfortunately, most motion detectors can be fooled by large rusty items, This is especially true of circular targets, such as iron washers and steel bottle caps. Sweeping the detector faster will help a lot on the steel bottle caps, and it will help some on the washers. Fortunately, large pieces of iron will be heard as much 'broader sounding' targets than non ferrous items in the all metal mode. Experienced motion detector users rarely dig large pieces of iron. Does the moistness of the soil affect detection depths? A lot of metallic targets corrode when lying in damp soil. This can cause the target to appear much larger than it really is. When the soil dries out, the corrosion may not affect the detector and the target will seem more like its normal size. Gold doesn't corrode in the ground, and silver doesn't corrode nearly as much as copper, brass and bronze. Iron and steel, of course, rust in moist ground, and can cause some really horrendous false signals. Is depth sacrificed for accurate identification in a target ID detector? Virtually all target ID detectors can find targets much deeper than they can identify them. Discrimination only requires one reference signal, which yields a positive signal for good targets and a negative one for bad targets. To identify the target requires some very special and complex electronic circuitry, which does not have the ability to reach the same depth as a simple discriminator. If manufacturers limited the depth of their ID machines to the depth of the identifier circuit, they would sell a lot fewer detectors.
Metal Detecting Tips May 29, 2009 by admin Filed under Metal Detecting TipsadminMetal Detecting Tips Buying a metal detector is just the first step in a persons’ quest to look for old coins and jewelry. Before going on that expedition, here are a few tips worth knowing that will help make the search successful. 1. People who don’t know how to use a metal detector should learn from those who know how to use it. This will make it easier for the user to know when there is something worth digging or just ignoring and continue on with the search. 2. Before going out, the metal detector should be checked to make sure it is functioning properly. The best way would be to hide a coin in the garage and have the individual successfully find it; this will increase the chances of finding other artifacts during the treasure hunt. 3. Another thing that has to be checked is the weather. Tests have shown that looking for objects when it is snowing or raining outside is useless because these interfere with the instruments on the metal detector. This means the person will have to wait until the conditions outside improve or reschedule the search when it is sunny. 4. Proper clothing is important during a treasure hunt. The proper outfit can keep the individual warm and/or cool and free from insect bites. 5. Most treasure hunts take hours before anything is found. It would be a good idea to take a tent for the person to rest in and some water along because dehydration often causes those in the group to call off the search. 6. Metal detectors run on batteries. Since these will wear out in a few hours, it would be a good idea to carry spares so the person can continue looking for treasure.
7. The treasure hunter should research the designated area before going in. This will save the individual time and energy, which can be put to better use looking in the right place. One of the things that the person should determine is if the area where the search will be conducted requires a permit. Some places require documentation and it is advisable to get it beforehand so there won’t be any problems when something has been found. Treasure hunting can be fun. By following these steps, the individual will have a great time searching for an artifact and making some money from it. Supplies For Metal Detecting May 15, 2009 Filed under Metal Detecting TipsMetal Detecting Tips The basic definition of conducting deep metal detecting work is when masses of objects or metals that are buried are found anywhere between forty centimeters to three meters just below the surface. Any other investigations that require depths that are greater than mentioned would then require a significant amount of equipment that is expensive and highly specialized. The following are equipment and supplies commonly used in metal detection. A VLF detector This type of machine generally functions using a frequency that ranges from five khz to thirty khz. It is known as the VLF detector since it operates on frequencies that are very low. This specific item could be used to detect any coins or jewelry that is small which may be buried under the soil’s surface - about fifteen inches maximum. Believe it or not, this machine is quite efficient and not really bulky and almost anyone could learn to use it in just minutes.
The use of magnetometers Basically, a magnetometer penetrates deep into a soil - usually about thirty feet or approximately ten meters; or for more sophisticated equipment, the depth could range from more than one hundred ninety feet - or sixty meters. Try not to confuse this equipment with other metal detecting gadgets that may not be so efficient. Though the magnetometer is quite pricey and requires a considerable amount of experience and practice in order to acquire great results, metals are detected easily using this equipment. Magnetic tokens of nickel, iron, and cobalt could be found using the magnetometer as well as magnetized fields in a particular area; this include any local abnormalities that are geologic in nature. However, if you are on the lookout for a bigger bounty - such as buried ships, mineral veins, and war cannons - the magnetometer is perfect for you. However, before embarking on a metal detection adventure of this magnitude, make sure to have a significant number of competent professionals with you as there may be gaping and huge holes awaiting your journey. The flux gate Another metal detecting supply is a magnetometer that is called a flux gate. Believe it or not, this equipment is the result of more than a year of development and research. It is considered to be the most ideal equipment being used to hunt specifically for gold and treasure - that could contain iron - which is buried deep. All in all, there are a great number of metal detecting supplies and equipment available that is ready at your beck and call. Know what you want, your needs and your preferences in order to get the metal detecting product you need for your own use and enjoyment.
Understanding The Signals From Your Metal Detector April 12, 2009 Treasure hunters love to use metal detectors because they aid them in searching for those hard to find metal items planted in the ground. When you are looking at metal detectors you might say that these contraptions are not that hard to understand. You are actually right. You just need a huge amount of patience and perseverance and you will learn to understand what the beep beeps mean. To learn what your detector tells you is matter of good listening skills and keeping notes. You need to tally or remember specific sounds and see which or what type of metals created that particular kind of sound. Be very observant and focused on the small or faint signals your contraption sends out for you. Your machine works by transmitting signals below the ground. When this happens and there are no metal objects your machine is very quiet and makes no other signals. If there are coins or other metallic objects in the area you are searching different sounds come into play because the signals transmitted are blocked and interfered with. You can change levels of detection in your machine by controlling your pad. There are specific frequencies for different types of metals you want to consider in your search. At the lowest level you may end up with a tin soda can or other metal scraps. At the highest level on the other hand you risk not detecting very low sited coins or other precious metal objects.
Whatever metals you can find may be different from what a professional and/or a neophyte may find with the same machine. Professionals through continuous listening and trial and error have mastered the art of metal detecting. Their secrets? Simple! PATIENCE. Yes, you need patience in going through the area; carefully trying not to miss an inch and swinging very carefully. You must also keep your search very close to the ground just in case there are coins planted far below the ground so your detector can detect them. If you worry about your coils banging into every rock in the area get a bump guard or what some call a shield. Try wearing headphones to hear more clearly all those very soft tones and beeps created by your machine. You never know if they just might whisper a soft signal that there are coins right bellow were you are standing. You might even want to keep the pace at a minimum. You don’t want to miss anything, do you? Remember all the beeps are important, so identify them and through patience and understanding you will be a more effective metal detector user.
WHAT'S THE BEST METAL DETECTOR? By Sondra Bernzweig Thoughts on equipment selection from a national expert! Each and every day I am asked -- "Tell me which detector is the best detector made?" I think that is a fair question, considering that when people buy a metal detector, they will be spending considerably more than $1.98! There is, however, a basic flaw in the question. The question should be modified to ask "Tell me which is the best detector for me?" This last question is best answered with a series of questions. Have you ever used a detector before? If this is a first detector for you, then you should consider your usual purchasing habits as they relate to other items. Do you generally buy top of the line products with a lot of features, or do you like simplicity? A good example might be a camera. Do you like a "point and shoot" type, or do you like to be able to make a lot of adjustments? Think of this when looking at detectors. How much money have you budgeted for this detector and how much time do you expect to devote to this sport? These two issues should be considered together. If you plan to detect many hours a week, you probably will want to have a detector with more electronic features than if you plan to spend an occasional few hours at the shore or in a park. The price of a metal detector will increase in relationship to the number of features it has. You can have a lot of fun with a basic detector but, if you expect extensive use and don't get enough features in your detector, you will be out shopping again before you know it.
Have you considered the cost of the accessory equipment you will need for use along with it? Aside from the price of the detector, you will need to buy some of the following items, such as a headphone with volume controls, trowels, beach scoops, a coil cover and a detector bag. Good headphones are especially important since they extend the sound of the signal, make your detector's batteries last longer, and keep the beeping from annoying others. There is no better, nor more comfortable metal detecting headphone than the Depthmaster Superphone. Where do you plan to use this detector? There are different types of detectors for coins and jewelry, for relics, for prospecting and for use in the water. Some detectors can overlap in their application, but generally they are special purpose. Nowadays, the most common type of detector purchased is a general purpose coin, jewelry, and relic detector. This will have a discrimination adjustment and sensitivity control at the very least. All detectors have waterproof coils. (But remember, if you fall into the drink with a land detector, you're out of luck!) Additional features, may include various types of meter displays, a manual ground balancing adjustment and more sophisticated discrimination adjustments called "notch." Some detectors may be micro-processor controlled. There are detectors which are intended primarily for use at the shore or in the water. This type of detector will not have a meter display and targets will be found via the audio signal. This allows fewer openings in the control box, because the most important fact of life in a beach detector is that it doesn't leak!
Detectors intended for prospecting gold or silver frequently will have no discrimination and always require manual ground balancing or ground tracking for best results. The frequencies of these detectors are the most appropriate for locating precious metal ores. If you want to have a dual purpose prospecting/coin shooting detector, look for a prospecting detector with discrimination. There is one other type of detector which is used for extreme depth situations. These are called "two box detectors" and they have limited general purpose use. Detectorists who use this type of equipment are looking for a cache, veins of ore, or pipes or cables. What kind of physical shape are you in? Metal detectors can have very different configurations, and can therefore be a different physical experience for each person. Some detectors can be taken off the pole, and hung from the waist or other parts of the body, while others cannot. Some people prefer a good hefty solid feel to their detector, and some look for the lightest weight possible. What is best for your friend, may in fact be totally inappropriate for you. Remember to think about how you will feel after several hours of metal detecting. Investigate new detectors before you assume that the purchase of an older used detector is a good deal. You may be pleasantly surprised at the many features new entry level detectors have for a very reasonable price. You don't want to end up with someone else's castoff if you could have a new detector for a comparable price.
Buying the Right Metal Detector By Fred Krupowicz and Dan Berg Metal detectors range in price from around $400 to over $1500. The quality of these detectors varies greatly. Some detectors are designed to be hot on gold while others are better at picking up coins as targets. Some detectors are water resistant allowing only the coil to be submerged and others are waterproof allowing the entire unit to be taken into the surf. Some machines are better in salt water and others fresh. For the most part you get what you pay for. With an inexpensive detector you will dig targets but may recover a lot of trash while with a mid or top range detector you can be more productive on your first trip to the beach. Think about it. If you purchase the least expensive detector it will not penetrate that deep and you may find mostly shallow trash. More than likely you would then not stay in the sport if all you are finding is trash. On the other hand, if you spend a bit more money up front for a detector that allows you to find a deeper buried gold ring on your first trip out you will be hooked for life and that machine will pay for itself in no time. Types of Detectors There are basically three different types of metal detectors currently on the market and about a dozen manufacturers. VLF (Motion) detectors, pulse induction detectors and Multi Frequency detectors. Some models are adaptable for beach, land and water hunting, and others have features like better target volume control for hearing through a diver’s neoprene hood. Let’s takes a quick look at each type of metal detector so you can decide which is the best unit for your planed type of treasure hunting.
Pulse Induction Detectors Pulse Induction units are best in salt water and generally speaking will pick up the deepest targets. Pulse detectors are designed to ignore salt which is great for anyone working in the ocean. Unfortunately, they can not discriminate iron and junk without also losing good signals. These detectors do not need motion and will continue to sound a steady tone when held directly over a target. Pulse detectors are often the choice detector for scuba diving treasure hunters, especially those working Spanish Galleons. These detectors are the deepest seeking units on the market. The down side is with most you have to have a very good ear and need practice listening for small fluctuations in signal tone to isolate a target. VLF (Motion) Detectors VLF stands for Very Low Frequency. These detectors are also called motion detectors. VLF units can be used in fresh or salt water and on the dry beach. They react to salt and become a little erratic when the coil touches wet ocean sand. The units are, therefore, best for land and fresh water use. These detectors require the search coil to be in motion in order to locate a target. The unit beeps as the target is passed. Most detectors have their own language. For example, a single beep in both directions equals a good target while a single beep in one direction followed by three beeps in the other may mean trash.
Multi Frequency Detectors Multi frequency detectors are a little more expensive but basically offer the best of both worlds in a truly universal detector. The units scan with a variety of frequencies. Since they scan with multi frequencies they can better adjust for the soil composition and mineralization that you are working. What that really means is that these detectors often find more targets per day than pulse or motion detectors. The added benefit is they are easy to use and for scuba divers some have a unique target volume feature that allows you to crank up the target tone. This way divers have no problem hearing targets through neoprene dive hoods and ambient bubble noise. Additional Features Within each of the previously listed categories detectors with different features are offered. Some detectors for land (or dry beach) have very sophisticated electronics and meters which display what they have found before even digging the target. These displays tell not only the type of metal it has detected but approximate how deep the target is located. Unfortunately, water machines do not have this feature. We are focusing on beach and water hunting for a reason. On the beach, sunbathers loose all types of items. Keys, coins and jewelry are often left on a towel, and then forgotten until the towel is later picked up and shaken. Once these targets hit the sand it’s nearly impossible to locate them without a metal detector. Sunbathers also regularly lather themselves with sun screen or tanning oil. They then bake themselves in the sun. After a while, they walk or jump into the water to cool off. Now the cool water causes fingers swollen in the summer heat to shrink and the rings just slide off. As a general rule gold will be our desired treasure. Gold can be located high and dry on the beach with a land machine. It is,however, often much more abundant in the surf and deeper water.
In the past, many serious metal detector hunters actually owned two or three different types of metal detectors. One for salt water another for fresh and a third for land hunting Now one good waterproof multi frequency detector can do a good job in most environments. The choice comes from how much you want to spend compared to how much time you are going to spend hunting and if you plan on hunting the dry beach, shallow water or scuba diving for treasure. Metal Detectors can detect objects down to approximately 6-24 inches below the surface. The exact depth that each machine can penetrate actually depends on: the type of metal you're looking for, the size of the target, composition of the soil, interference from other buried metal objects and experience of the user. When trying to decide on which detector is right for you start by considering what environment you will be using your metal detector Beach Hunting Walking the dry sand in search of lost coins and jewelry. Least amount of equipment needed. Equipment: VLF (motion) detector, or Multi frequency can be used. Land machine or water proof machine. Short or long handled scoop. Recommended: waterproof multi frequency detector. This way you can discriminate trash and can also hunt the surf’s edge.
Shallow Water Hunting- Walking into the shallow water, usually at low tide. Often more jewelry and less junk is found in the water! Equipment: Pulse induction or Multi frequency can be used. Water proof machine. Short or long handled scoop. May need boots or waders in cold water. Recommended: waterproof multi frequency for the most targets or pulse induction for finding deeper targets or working areas with a lot of competition. Water Hunting Wading into the surf or deeper water. Often chest to neck deep. This is where the most gold should be. Equipment: VLF (motion) detector (for fresh water), Pulse induction or multifrequency. Water proof metal detector. Long handle or looped scoop.May need floating screen. May need thermal protection example: wet or dry suit. Recommended: Pulse Induction will find the deepest targets and are great for working areas with a lot of competition. Multi frequency detectors are much easier to use and have a unique target volume control.
Scuba diving Using scuba equipment to get into deeper water that wading. Equipment: VLF (motion) detector, Pulse induction or Multifrequency can be used. Water proof metal detector. Hand rake and catch bag Thermal protection and all SCUBA equipment. Recommended: waterproof multi frequency for the most targets or Pulse Induction for finding deeper targets or working areas with a lot of competition. Shipwreck Exploration Using metal detector on shipwrecks to find treasure and artifacts. Equipment: VLF (motion) detector, Pulse induction or Multi frequency can be used. Waterproof metal detector. All SCUBA equipment. Recommended: Pulse Induction is detector of choice for deeply buried targets. Multi frequency detectors are much easier to use and have a unique target volume control so you can easily hear targets even with ambient bubble noise.
Identifying and defining your intended use is the first consideration when evaluating which metal detector to purchase. Do not be alarmed if you find yourself wanting a machine that can do it all. Most manufacturers make machines that can function in several environments. Once you have identified your most likely search environments and desired targets, it's time to consider and compare some of the other features of most metal detectors: Metal Detector Features Depth Although the actual detectable depth will depend on many factors including soil composition, size and material of target, some metal detectors are designed to work deeper underground than others. Target Alert Metal detectors use one or more audio, visual, or tactile alerts to let you know when the metal detector has picked up a target signal. Inexpensive metal detectors will have the same beep tone regardless of the metal detected. Other more sophisticated metal detectors will have distinctive beep tones based on the type of metal detected. For example, on junk some of these detectors will beep three times in one direction and one beep in the other. The most expensive and arguably the best metal detectors will give you a different tone for each type of target. For example, multi frequency detectors have a low mellow tone for gold and a high pitch tone for coins. Having said that aluminum foil sounds just like gold so as a rule, water hunters dig all targets to avoid missing valuable signals.
Detection Mode Many metal detectors allow you to change the settings based on the type of object you're looking for. The four most common detection modes are coin, coin/jewelry, relic (buttons, buckles, bullets, etc.) and prospecting (gold). Some metal detectors specialize in just one or two modes, and others let you search in just one mode or in all modes simultaneously. Being able to set a mode for a specific situation helps eliminate false signals. Sensitivity Most metal detectors allow you to adjust the unit so it is either more or less sensitive to ground minerals, targets in the ground and electrical interference. Discrimination Discrimination allows you to select which targets you want to dig. This can be very helpful because you can eliminate trash and only dig better targets. This feature is great on land or dry sand. Water hunters as a rule dig all signals because tin foil sounds just like gold. If you eliminate foil you also greatly reduce your odds of finding a gold ring. Most only use this feature in heavy trash areas to cut down the junk signals and save time. Display Many land detectors (which can be used on the dry sand) have electronic displays. These sophisticated metal detectors display information about what type of target, and how deep the target is buried, before you even start to dig. Battery Life Many metal detectors use 'AA' batteries. Others are rechargeable. Burn times run from only a couple hours to over 30 hours of operation. Consider purchasing an extra rechargeable battery that can be changed in the field. It is the worst feeling in the world to detect all morning and just start to dig jewelry only to have your detector’s battery run out.
Size, Shape &Weight Metal detectors usually weigh just a few pounds, but some are heavier than others. If you are going to be swinging the coil for hours at a time you will want a light weight detector or the ability to mount the box on a waste belt and only swing the coil and shaft. Water hunters must also consider the detector’s shape. A large flat side surface creates increased resistance. This resistance can quickly slow down or tire out even the strongest treasure hunter. Other Metal Detector features - Portable shaft that breaks down or collapses for easy transport - Waterproof and water resistant units for shallow water or scuba - Salt and freshwater versatility - Enhanced sensitivity to coins, gold or silver - Iron discrimination- some detectors have the ability to null out over iron - Detachable control box with belt or chest mount Budget After deciding what type of treasure hunting you will do and considering the options available, sometimes the biggest consideration is your budget. Once you have a good idea of what specific features and functions you want from your metal detector, you will just need to find the metal detectors that match your needs and begin comparing them by price. Try to find the metal detector that provides the most value. If budget is a major concern, consider purchasing a used metal detector.
Getting More Depth From Your Metal Detector By Dan Hughes, Associate Editor, Treasure Quest Reprinted from TREASURE QUEST magazine, Summer 1993 Revised by the author, Summer 1998 It never fails. There's always somebody who is able to find more and better things with a metal detector than any other people who are using the same make and model machine. Why does this one person almost always do better than the rest of us? What are we missing? Every metal detector has an absolute maximum depth that is determined by two basic factors: the diameter and physics of the search coil, and the electronic circuitry of the machine itself. In theory, it shouldn't matter who is running the machine. But put any metal detector in the hands of a pro, and it will turn up deeper, older coins than when that same detector is used by a novice. What's the secret? How does the experienced treasure hunter find those deeper coins that you've been missing? There are several simple rules anyone can follow to increase the depth of their metal detecting finds. The following tips will help you get the maximum depth, and therefore the maximum pleasure and value, from your metal detector. Follow these rules carefully, and in no time you'll be finding the deeper, older coins your treasure hunting buddies are passing right over!
1). Always use headphones. And the best headphones to use are the big headphones with cups that surround your ears. They enable you to hear those weaker (and deeper!) signals that you miss when you use a Walkman-type headphone. A coiled headphone cord is much better than a limp, straight one, because like a telephone cord it doesn't get in your way while you're moving this way and that. Depending on your detector and your own sense of hearing, there are two special features you may want in your headphones: a mono/stereo switch, and individual volume controls for each ear. Some detectors require monaural headphones (Garrett and White's, for example), and some require stereo headphones (Tesoro and Fisher). Headphones with a mono/stereo switch can easily adapt to any brand of detector. If you hear better out of one ear than the other, individual volume controls will let you hear the same relative volume in each ear. Many people use headphones designed for listening to a stereo in an easy chair. These may be too fragile to last long when they face rough treatment in the field. Your metal detector dealer can steer you to a good sturdy pair of headphones especially designed for use by treasure hunters.
2). Slow down. Most beginners swing the detecting coil much too fast. It's hard to acquire the patience to slow down, but remember that the coins aren't going anywhere. (Especially not into your pocket if you fly right past them). Slower detecting means you'll pick up deeper signals. Prove this to yourself by putting a coin on the ground. Swing your detector loop over the coin at different speeds, and raise and lower your loop to see what speed gives you the best depth.. Warning: It is possible to swing some detectors TOO slow, so be sure to experiment with some coins on the ground. 3). Keep your loop low to the ground. If you swing the loop an inch above the ground, you are costing yourself an inch of depth. And you probably paid quite a bit of money for that bottom inch! Keep your coil against the ground as you swing it. (If you don't have a coil cover to protect your loop, get one). You'll hit rocks and scrape dirt when you keep your loop against the ground, but it is more than worth these minor aggravations to find the deeper, older coins.
4). Keep your swinging distance short. The longer the length of your swing, the less control you have over your detector and the more you tend to lift the loop from the ground at the ends of the swing. Not only that, but on those longer loop swings your loop makes more of an angle with the ground. And that robs you of depth. You should keep the loop absolutely parallel to the ground for the entire length of your swing, and move your whole arm without bending your wrist. (If your detector has an armrest, you won't be able to bend your wrist as you swing your machine). 5). Use minimum discrimination. When you increase discrimination on most metal detectors, you lose depth and a lot of gold rings. I recommend that you discriminate out iron, but nothing else except when junk conditions are so bad you can't live with low discrimination. If you must use higher discrimination, here are instructions on how to set your discriminator to eliminate pull tabs (this will cost you many gold rings): Put a pull tab on the ground and swing your coil back and forth over it, slowly increasing the discrimination until the sound of the pull tab breaks up or becomes erratic (or it may just go silent).
Stop! You are now at a setting that will eliminate most junk, including pull tabs, but you will still find all coins except nickels. There are some high-end detectors that have notch filters or target ID systems that allow you to skip pulltabs and still find nickels and some gold rings. Note I said SOME gold rings! My first detector (in the early 1970's) was primitive, with no discrimination. I had no choice but to dig every bottle cap and pulltab in creation, hating every bit of it. BUT, I found more gold rings with that detector in the three years I used it than I have found in the last 20-odd years with a multitude of deeper, more modern detectors that have discrimination circuitry. If you want to find gold rings, please go back and read that last paragraph again! No, I'm not telling you to hit the flea markets in search of a primitive detector. I'm telling you to turn off the discrimination as often as you can stand it. Play this game: tell yourself that you are going to hunt with no discrimination until you have collected 25 pulltabs, or 50 pulltabs. By then you will probably be batty enough that you just have to turn the discrimination back on. At least this method gives you a fighting chance for some gold rings.
Remember, the other treasure hunters who use discrimination are skipping right over those gold rings. Those rings will not be found until some brave soul turns off that discrimination. Shouldn't that brave soul be you? 6). Overlap your swings more. The deeper a coin is buried, the smaller the area of your detector's signal that reaches that coin. So in addition to the fact that your detector power is less on deeper coins, you also have a much greater chance of missing a deeper coin because your signal area shrinks as the signal goes deeper. Think of the detecting pattern beneath your coil as a pointed-tip ice cream cone. Though your loop has a diameter of 8 inches, its detecting field narrows as the signal goes deeper, until at maximum depth your signal area is just a single point. Don't move that point too far with each sweep. The more you overlap your swings, the more likely you'll find those deep coins that you would otherwise miss. 7). Hunt when the ground is wet. The wetter the ground, the more depth you're going to get from your detector. We all know we're more likely to get an electrical shock when we're standing in water. This is because water is a much better conductor of electricity than is air.
Similarly, your metal detector's signal can penetrate deeper into the ground when the soil is moist, and on a wet day you can find coins that are too deep to detect when the ground is dry. (Note: the ground can on rare occasions be too wet, causing false signals. If this happens, turn your sensitivity control down). Besides better depth, there are two added bonuses of metal detecting after a good rain. The ground is much easier to dig when it is wet, and the root system of the grass is less likely to be damaged by your digging. 8). Practice as often as you can. As in virtually every sport or skill, the more you practice the better you get. At first, it requires quite an effort to put all these suggestions into action. You must concentrate on each point, and constantly remind yourself to stay on track with each of the above tips. But after several sessions, these difficult-to-remember procedures begin to become second nature to you, and you'll do them all automatically. And that is when you'll find that you are the one who is leaving the others behind. When that happens, be a good sport and share these hints with them, too.
In part two will take a look at some tips to purchase the correct metal detector for detecting at the beach. So maybe you are thinking to yourself great there is a lot different type of metal detectors how I find one that works best for me if I am going to be metal detecting on the beach? Here are some tips to buying the best metal detector for you if you are planning on metal detecting of sand beach. 1. When selecting a metal detector especially for the beach area make sure that the metal detector has different types of search capabilities. Some metal detectors will only work on one type of metal while not detecting another one within your same range. This is not good news because you want to be able to find as much treasure as you possibly can. 2. You want to make sure that you are familiar with all the features that the metal detector you are purchasing has at your disposal. Metal detectors can come in a lot of different varieties and forms with a lot of different features you want to make sure that your metal detector will work on either dry or wet sand. 3. When buying a metal detector you need to consider the depth that the metal detector searches at, if you have no problem digging deep into the sand maybe purchase one that has more depth capabilities. If digging deep into the sand is not something that you feel you will be doing a lot of you should save a little bit of money and purchase one that does not have quite the depth capabilities.
As you can see if you are interested in metal detecting on the beach or in the sand there are lot of difference considerations. Make sure that you purchase the correct metal detector for you so that you do not end up wasting your time and become aggravated. Metal detecting can be a very enjoyable hobby but at the same time if you do not have the correct equipment for your application it can be a frustrating hobby. J C Christian is an avid follower of metal detectors and how metal detectors work. He runs an informational site that follows Garret Metal Detectors, Fisher Metal Detectors, Tesoro Metal Detectors, and Kellyco Metal Detectors just to name a few. Go to http://www.metal- detector-guides.com/ to find information to help with everything metal detecting.how metal detectors workhttp://www.metal- detector-guides.com/ Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J_C_Christianhttp://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J_C_Christian J C Christian is an avid follower of metal detectors and how metal detectors work. He runs an informational site that follows Garret Metal Detectors, Fisher Metal Detectors, Tesoro Metal Detectors, and KellyCo Metal Detectors just to name a few. Go to http://www.metal- detector-guides.com/ to find information to help with everything metal detecting.how metal detectors workhttp://www.metal- detector-guides.com/ Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J_C_Christianhttp://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J_C_Christian
Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: Herm [ Send a PM ] Date: March 04, 2008 05:33PM IP/Host: 184.108.40.206 Registered: 3 years ago Posts: 21 Okay I've been using Larry's program. The two parks that I have been to so far haven't produced any deep coins yet, but I know they hold some. The few clad coins that I have found were down about 4-4 1/2 inches. The thing that has me stumped is when pinpointing the DC Phase has been reading in the -60 to -80 on these coins. So when hunting for deep coins does it matter what the DC Phase is saying. I always thought that the DC Phase reading would be closer to the VDI of the coin. Do I have something not set right or is this normal? Herm Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: labeachbum [ Send a PM ] Date: March 07, 2008 08:45PM IP/Host: 220.127.116.11 Registered: 6 months ago Posts: 83 That's very informative as my local park is Pull Tab Heaven with one gold ring in the middle. I will have to test The Dc phase out
This is from a chat with Whites DFX Users Classroom Forum on the DFX Detector Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: Larry (IL) [ Send a PM ] Date: March 04, 2008 06:19PM Moderator IP/Host: 18.104.22.168 Registered: 3 years ago Posts: 1,968 The DC Phase is not very accurate for deep coins, but still some what useful. For shallow coins, be sure to start your pinpoint off to the side away from your target and other targets too. Then bring the coil over your target and you should get a pretty good positive reading on the DC Phase. The DC Phase, I believe, is raw data from the 15 KHz channel. The deeper the target the less accurate the DC Phase will be, but you can tell if your target is iron by the DC staying deep in the negative numbers. If the DC Phase rises 20 to 30 points over the ground reading, I will dig. That indicates the target is probably a positive DC Phase and when averaged with the negative DC Phase of the ground, will make the DC rise some but usually not up into the positive range. The best use of DC Phase is telling gold from pull tabs. Gold will DC Phase 1 to 1 1/2 times the VDI and most whole tabs will DC Phase much higher, usually in the 50's to 60's for me.
Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: coinnut [ Send a PM ] Date: March 04, 2008 08:02PM IP/Host: 22.214.171.124 Registered: 1 year ago Posts: 679 Ya, That's the way I understood it too. The DC phase is reading everything including the ground. If you were directly over the target your numbers would be higher than if you swept over mostly ground. It's kind of a combination reading. It will raise your numbers more into the positive range, but probably never give you the high numbers that we are used to from the display. Is this right?? Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: Larry (IL) [ Send a PM ] Date: March 05, 2008 09:08AM Moderator IP/Host: 126.96.36.199 Registered: 3 years ago Posts: 1,968
Yes, that is right. DC Phase is just another tool to help us decide if we should dig or not. I dig a lot of iffy targets just because I enjoy finding non-coin targets too. Iffy targets will sometimes result in a nice coin, but more often, it is junk or some other interesting item. The list is long of non-coin finds which include buttons, cuff and button studs, tokens, small toys, clock parts, watches......all kinds of things. The biggest use of DC Phase for me is ID'ing pull tabs and pop tops from what might be something else. An example is if I get a VDI of 23, I will look at the DC Phase when pinpointing. If the DC Phase is in the 20's to 30's, I will dig. Sometimes it will be a partial pull tab, but sometimes it is not, resulting in a gold ring, button studs and in one case, a 108 diamond/gold bracelet. If the DC Phase reads in the 50's -60's it almost always is an aluminium object. ( house siding, tab, pop top, etc.) Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: coinnut [ Send a PM ] Date: March 05, 2008 04:14PM IP/Host: 188.8.131.52 Registered: 1 year ago Posts: 679 Nice to know. Are you doing very short swings, right over the target, for those numbers, or are you taking longer swings?
Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: Larry (IL) [ Send a PM ] Date: March 06, 2008 10:35AM Moderator IP/Host: 184.108.40.206 Registered: 3 years ago Posts: 1,968 You use DC Phase while pinpointing the target with VCO ON. You should not be swinging the coil at all. Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: coinnut [ Send a PM ] Date: March 07, 2008 06:49AM IP/Host: 220.127.116.11 Registered: 1 year ago Posts: 679 Got it. Thanks!!
Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: Herm [ Send a PM ] Date: March 06, 2008 12:29PM IP/Host: 18.104.22.168 Registered: 3 years ago Posts: 21 Hi Larry, so what DC Phase reading would you expect if you were Pinpointing on these items at a depth of a say 6-8 inches? And I realize that my ground will most likely be different than yours Larry. I'm just looking for a generality for what to look for once I possibly do stumble over a deep target. 1) Silver Dime - 2) Silver Quarter - 3) Indian Penny - 4) Thin gold ring with a VDI of 18-20 - 5) Mans gold ring with a VDI of 46-50 - Thank you to every one that has interjected some of your knowledge on this topic, I really appreciated it. Herm
Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: Larry (IL) [ Send a PM ] Date: March 06, 2008 01:49PM Moderator IP/Host: 22.214.171.124 Registered: 3 years ago Posts: 1,968 I can't really say Herm. It would be easy for you to test it yourself. Dig a hole and drop your target in there and replace the plug. Pinpoint it and read your DC Phase. Of course, the readings will change somewhat every time because other items may be near, over or under your target when you are out hunting. Like I said, it is just another tool to help you, and not a fail safe or absolute technique. Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: Herm [ Send a PM ] Date: March 06, 2008 07:27PM IP/Host: 126.96.36.199 Registered: 3 years ago Posts: 21 I understand everything that your saying Larry. And I realize that the numbers will vary from area to area. Just wondered what some for the DC Phase's might be for you in your area, or maybe I should say what DC Phase numbers would really get you excited. Herm
Re: Using DC Phase while pinpointing? Posted by: Larry (IL) [ Send a PM ] Date: March 07, 2008 11:21AM Moderator IP/Host: 188.8.131.52 Registered: 3 years ago Posts: 1,968 I dig just about all targets in the + range, so I don't pay a lot of attention to the DC Phase Herm. The two exceptions are when targets are in the +20 to +40 range. ( Pull Tab Heaven) I will look at the Phase to help me ID aluminium from feverything else. If the DC Phase is in the 50's to 60's, it is something aluminium. When the Phase is in the 20' to 30's I'll dig it. The other time I use DC Phase is on deep targets. My DC reading for my soil is -93 and when I hear a deep "maybe", I'll check the phase. If the DC Phase on a deep target remains deep into the - numbers, it most likely is a rusty nail or some other iron object. If the Phase comes up 20 or 30 points, it could be something in the + range and worth digging. A lot of negative ground mixed with a small + object will average out still in the negative numbers, but higher than the ground Phase reading. I hope this helps some. Thanks a million Larry, I think I'm getting the idea now. Herm
Re: block edit Posted by: OkieDigger Date: April 28, 2007 11:30AM Registered: 1 year ago Posts: 24 It took me a minute to figure it out, but once you know how it's a piece of cake. Here's how I do it. Go into block edit and run the VDI numbers all the way down to -95. Switch from "reject" to "accept" and back to "reject" (I do this just to be sure). Now, with the setting on "reject" go up the VDI scale to the desired "accept" range. For instance let's say you only want to dig copper pennies, dimes and large silver. So you go up the scale to from -95 to +80 in "reject" mode. Once you're at +80 you switch to "accept" (by hitting the "enter" button) and then run up the VDI scale to +95 in "accept" mode. When you get to +95 you hit the "Menu" button and you're set Re: block edit Posted by: Larry (IL)
That is exactly how to do it from Okiedigger. The program I use is Reject -95 to +9, Accept +10 to +94 and reject +95. I use this 90% of the time unless I am trying to get to the really deep stuff. I gain a little more depth with this, Reject -95 to -40, accept -41 to +94 and reject +95. Re: block edit Posted by: jack in Omaha Date: May 16, 2007 09:55AM Registered: 1 year ago Posts: 92 OK, but how do you double check it. I am not sure I have it set correctly Re: block edit Posted by: Larry (IL) Date: May 16, 2007 10:22AM Moderator Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 1,35 To check what you have done in Block Edit, go to Disc. Edit and you can run through the whole Discrimination pattern without changing anything. To change something, press ENTER to accept or reject whatever needs to be changed. Don't forget to save changes to your Custom program or your changes will only be temporary.
Re: block edit Posted by: Larry (IL) That is exactly how to do it from Okiedigger. The program I use is Reject -95 to +9, Accept +10 to +94 and reject +95. I use this 90% of the time unless I am trying to get to the really deep stuff. I gain a little more depth with this, Reject -95 to -40, accept -41 to +94 and reject +95. Re: block edit Posted by: jack in Omaha OK, but how do you double check it. I am not sure I have it set correctly : block edit Posted by: Larry (IL) To check what you have done in Block Edit, go to Disc. Edit and you can run through the whole Discrimination pattern without changing anything. To change something, press ENTER to accept or reject whatever needs to be changed. Don't forget to save changes to your Custom program or your changes will only be temporary.
This is the program I use 90% of the time. It lets me hear just about everything in the positive zone, rejecting small foil and iron. It is VERY hot and unstable, but deep. I use the 5.3, 6X10 DD and the Excelerator 10" DD with no changes. For larger coils, I reduce the Preamp to 3. When EMI is a problem, I switch to 15 KHz. When deep hunting in clean ground, I use, Best Data or 3 KHz and accept iron down to -30. I now accept down to -29 and reject -30 to -95. This is working pretty good for me in all types of hunting. You will have to tweak some things to your liking, but this is what works for me. Target Volume: User Select Audio Threshold: User select Tone: User Select Audio Discrimination: On Silent Search: Off Mixed Mode: Off AC Sensitivity: 80 or better
DC Sensitivity: 50 Back lite: off Ratchet Pin Point: OFF SAT Speed: 8 Tone ID: ON VCO: ON Modulation: Off Auto Trac: Off, You may want it ON in your ground. Trac View: Off Auto Trac Speed: 8 Auto Trac Offset: +1 Track Inhibit: On
Fine GEB: Auto Block Edit: Reject -95 to -09, Accept -10 to +93 Reject +94,+95 Learn Accept: Off Learn Reject: Off Recovery Speed: 15, 30 in trash Bottle cap Reject: 7 Hot Rock Reject: 15, 7 if you don't have a problem with Hot Rocks. Sweep Speed: 5 Ground Filtering: 4 Visual Discrimination: Off ICONS: Off VDI Sensitivity: 90, 99 for best depth, 80 for VDI stability. (Trade-off) DC Phase: DC On
Graph Averaging: On Graph Accumulate: On Fade Rate: 05 Pre Amp Gain: 4 Correlate: ON Best Data when in fairly clean ground and best depth. VDI Normalized: On Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 12/26/2008 09:06PM by Larry (IL).