1. Use of advanced tools for multilocalized design
INESCOP
Footwear Technological Institute
Use of advanced tools for multilocalized design
and manufacturing in the footwear industry
Dr. Enrique Montiel
Industry of Design-Based Products: Creating Value through Customization

2. What is INESCOP? Independent service organisation. Founded in 1971.
INESCOP is a non profit-making organisation created in It is a service organisation developing scientific and technical activities addressing the needs of the footwear industries that cannot normally be solved individually by the companies due to their small size. Their staff of 147 professionals (13 PhD) includes experts in chemistry, physics, computer science, electronics, ICT, design and robotics.
Independent service organisation.
Founded in 1971.
Non-profit making institution.
More than 500 associated companies.

3. Technology Centre
INESCOP works as a Technology Centre that supports footwear industries to develop scientific and technical activities that cannot be undertaken by themselves.
INESCOP owns 20 patents on different systems, most of them transferred to the industry for exploitation. INESCOP has participated in over 90 EU projects since 1986.

4. INESCOP’s services Testing services, quality control.
Technology development.
Applied research.
Industrial and fashion design.
Environment.
Training.
Information.
…because we are an industry driven Research Center -> Research to innovate

5. Network of laboratories: 6 technical units and 1 affiliated centre
Close to the factories
Network of laboratories: 6 technical units and 1 affiliated centre

6. 246 Billion Euros The world footwear sector
Value of the world footwear market:
246 Billion Euros 1
1All data obtained from World Footwear Yearbook 2011

7. 20 Billion Pairs The world footwear sector
In 2010 for the first time ever
World footwear production exceeded:
20 Billion Pairs

8. The world footwear sector
Manufacture is heavily concentrated in Asia:
they produce 87% of all the pairs of shoes produced worldwide
European Countries produce only 4% of world footwear pairs

9. The European footwear sector
20% of world shoe consumption
destination of 45% of world imports
Europe:
And the problem is not only producing less shoes for selling and exporting, there is also a problem with the increase of European imports of outside-EU shoes
Europe exports only 11% of world total footwear

10. 23% 9 European countries The European footwear sector
are in the top15 world footwear exporters
Spain
Italy
Portugal
23%
Share of all
footwear
exported
in the world

11. The Spanish footwear sector
The Valencian Region is the hub of the Spanish footwear industry, although it is also present in areas such as Castilla La Mancha and La Rioja.
Shoe images of Shoe Street Art exhibition

12. Footwear average value
The Spanish footwear sector
In 2011, Spain exported to China footwear with an average value of 46.43€
Footwear average value
Shoe images of Shoe Street Art exhibition
Exported
40.2€
Imported
5.9€

13. The Spanish footwear sector
The Spanish industry has been able to increase its exports to the most important European markets, but lost some share in USA.
Increase exports to European markets, with the EXCPETION of Great Brtiain

14. The Spanish footwear sector
Imports grew rapidly, both from China and from European markets such as Italy and France.

15. The Spanish footwear sector
Footwear exports concentrate in leather shoes, while imports concentrate in cheap rubber & plastic ones.

16. Short life cycle + low price
The product problem
Life-cycle
10 y.
0.5 y.
Price
80€
12,000€
Short life cycle + low price
( + extremely short series: customisation)

17. Typical design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle
The time-to-market problem
Typical design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle
…but there are other cycles

18. One season/year design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle
The time-to-market problem
One season/year design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle
e.g. Kelme (sports footwear)

19. Continuous design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle
The time-to-market problem
Continuous design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle
e.g. Tempe (Zara)

20. The communication problem
Lasts
Prototypes
Soles
Headquarters
Design
Prototypes
Lasts
Heels
Soles
Manufacturing
Distribution
Manufacturing
Heels

21. at the manufacturing stage
Possible solutions
Flexibility
Speed
Accuracy
Integration:
Marketing support:
at the design stage
at the manufacturing stage
-flexibility, speed and accuracy: cad/cam, with knowledge based applications and integration of files and tools
-seamless communication between design team, prototyping team, production team, using integrated model of design and production tools.
-new media: RA y RV
seamless communication of teams
new means

22. Proven experience
We are developers of CAD/CAM software solutions, under an integrated scope: all software are interconnectable, and even they’re connected to our hardware solutios

23. Case 1: Kelme
Problem: to develop a high performance FUTSAL shoe, in collaboration with Michelin, reducing the development/manufacturing time.

24. Case 1: Kelme Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms,
All shoe images in this presentation are Virtual Models

25. Case 1: Kelme
Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials

26. Case 1: Kelme
Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials and new sole design in a digital model,

27. Case 1: Kelme
Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials and new sole design in a digital model, using an integrated knowledge-based CAD/CAM solution.

28. Case 2: Sacha London
Problem: to add value to the point-of-sale, and to increase mass media impact of the brand.

29. Case 2: Sacha London
Solution: to offer the chance to customise

30. Case 2: Sacha London
Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection,

31. Case 2: Sacha London
Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection, using a tablet

32. Case 2: Sacha London
Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection, using a tablet and an web-based online customisation system (iShoe),

33. Case 2: Sacha London
Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection, using a tablet and web-based online customisation system (iShoe), and offering the possibility to test the model in an Virtual Mirror (iMirror).

34. Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) …some data:
Problem: complex and multifactorial operational environment,
with multiple conditional factors.
Data corresponding to April 2012
…some data:
INDITEX has 5,618 shops, opening at least 1 new shop/day.
TEMPE designs, manufactures and distributes footwear for all INDITEX brands. 2
2 April 2012 published data, INDITEX group

35. Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Footwear accounts for 10% of INDITEX’s total sales.
Footwear is INDITEX’s most profitable product.

36. 60 million shoes/year (1 billion €).
Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
60 million shoes/year (1 billion €).

37. Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
TEMPE’s Design Center employs 110 designers, working on the two-season collections and the out-of-season designs.

38. Footwear is worldwide manufactured in 200 factories.
Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Footwear is worldwide manufactured in 200 factories.

39. Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Footwear design and production has 2 main seasons, but they also maintain a continuous design/manufacturing cycle for the whole year (to cope with emerging trends & oversales).

40. Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)
Every year 25,000 prototypes are designed and manufactured…
…only 8,000 of them are selected for final production.

41. Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) Solution:
To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe design phase.

42. Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) Solution:
To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe design phase.
To exchange information using compatible data files between design and production centres: components (lasts, heels, soles) and whole footwear.

43. Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) Solution:
To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe design phase.
To exchange information using compatible data files between design and production centres: components (lasts, heels, soles) and whole footwear.
To create hyper-realistic virtual prototypes.

45. Case 4: CallagHan
Problem: to add value to their shoes to differentiate them from their competitors.

46. Case 4: CallagHan
Solution: to design and develop a casual shoe with an integrated electronic device that records physical activity
Result from the FP6 EU Project No
“CEC-made-shoe. Custom, environment and comfort made shoe”

47. Case 4: CallagHan
Solution: to design and develop a casual shoe with an integrated electronic device that records physical activity and is connected to a web-based personal trainer.

48. Case 5: Duna
Problem: to allow the integration of customised footwear manufacture in an industrial line of serial production.

49. The technology innovation in DUNA
Case 5: Duna
The technology innovation in DUNA
New Products Lines
New communication systems
Specific solutions to integrate different technologies in the production processes
All products must be developed according to the European laws for medical devices
Small production lot till the single pair or shoe with specific technical solution against production industrial machines generally studied for simply workout and lots with high volume.
The large range of technical info on the products to be transferred to end-users, customers and medical world require appropriate communication systems.
DUNA is official partner of “SSHOES - Special Shoes Movement” European Project Grant agreement no.: NMP-2008-SME-2-R
Special R&D Programs

50. Case 5: Duna
Solution: by means of the research project SSHOES3 (Special Shoes Movement), to develop a completely digital process to manufacture a customised diabetic shoe:
Biomechanical analysis (MiniLab).
Foot scanning (3D scanner).
Activity pattern analysis.
Knowledge-based CAD/CAM design.
Testing devices.
Robotic cell production.
3 NMP2-SE , Seventh Framework Programme.

51. Future trends:
Seamless integration of functional analysis/biomechanics, material science and comfort issues in CAD/CAM software.
Low-cost robotic cells for short series production as well as massive introduction of robotics.
Better simulation tools, both for product and processes: VR, AR.
Better use of ICT tools: interoperability, embedding Knowledge in products.

52. You are invited…

53. POLIGONO INDUSTRIAL CAMPO ALTO E-mail: emontiel@inescop.es
Footwear Technological Institute
POLIGONO INDUSTRIAL CAMPO ALTO
C/ Alemania, 102
03600 ELDA ·ALICANTE· SPAIN
Tel Fax