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The Crinoline Period 1850-1870 Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013 Cutaway view of crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856.

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Presentation on theme: "The Crinoline Period 1850-1870 Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013 Cutaway view of crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856."— Presentation transcript:

1 The Crinoline Period Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013 Cutaway view of crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856

2 Historical Background England Queen Victoria exemplified the British ideal of womanhood Mid-century Britain enjoyed great prosperity Britain hosted the Great Exhibition of 1851 The Crinoline Period:

3 Historical Background France Louis Napoleon becomes Napoleon III and the Second French Republic becomes the Second Empire France experienced economic growth and Paris was rebuilt Paris again became the center of European fashion with the help of Charles Frederick Worth Napoleon III abdicated and fled to Britain in 1870 The Second Empire vanished and was replaced by the Third Republic The Crinoline Period:

4 Historical Background United States Abraham Lincoln elected President in 1860 Southern states secede and form the Confederacy North vs. South in the American Civil War Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation in 1863 Lincoln Assassinated in 1865 The Crinoline Period:

5 Charles Frederick Worth The Father of Haute Couture The Empress Eugénie (Eugénie de Montijo, 1826–1920, Condesa de Teba), 1854 Franz Xaver Winterhalter (German, 1805– 1873) Empress Elisabeth in Courtly Gala Dress with Diamond Stars, 1865 Franz Xaver Winterhalter (German, 1805–1873)

6 The Crinoline Period: Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Sets the dates and location for French fashion week Establishes industry standards on clothing Establishes standards on the use of the word haute couture presently the Fédération française de la couture Originated in 1868 and is still active today The governing body of the French fashion industry

7 The Crinoline Period: Sewing Machine The Singer Sewing machine hit the market in 1851 The number of sewing machines doubled between 1860 and 1865 Became a vital factor in the development of industry

8 Fashion Plate, 1853 Costume for Women The Crinoline Period The Crinoline Period:

9 Steel Cage Crinoline, 1858 The Crinoline Period: Costume for Women Cage Crinoline

10 Undergarments The Crinoline Period: Getting Dressed Chemise Drawers Corset Crinoline Corset cover Petticoat

11 Costume for Women Daytime dresses The Crinoline Period: Day dresses, 1861

12 Costume for Women Evening dresses The Crinoline Period: Portrait of Princesse Albert de Broglie, née Joséphine-Eléonore-Marie-Pauline de Galard de Brassac de Béarn, 1853 Jean Auguste Dominque Ingres (French, ) Charles Frederick Worth, circa 1860

13 Fashion & Celebrity The Crinoline Period: The Garibaldi Blouse Giuseppe Garibaldi Past patterns #709

14 Dress Reform The Crinoline Period: The Bloomer Costume Consisted of a short skirt over Turkish Trousers Initially adopted by feminist Elizabeth Smith Miller after a trip to Europe Named for Amelia Bloomer who adopted the style and wrote about it favorably Provoked much ridicule

15 The Crinoline Period: Costume for Women The Media A caricature sequence of posed joke photographs, circa 1860, showing five stages of putting on a crinoline A packing dilemma The hazards of public transportation

16 Costume Evolution The Crinoline Period:

17 The Bustle Period and the Nineties Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013

18 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Historical Background EnglandFranceUnited States Victoria had already been queen for over 30 when the bustle arrived as popular fashion Industrial England was experiencing an economic boom England experienced a gradual extension of voting rights The period began with the shock of the Franco-Prussian War Napoleon III surrendered to the Prussian armies and fled to England The Second Empire ended and was replaced by the Third Republic Paris endured a bloody Civil War known as the Commune The Civil War had ended The country was united from East to West by railroads Settlers were rapidly moving westward Industrialization, urbanization, and immigration were continuing at a rapid pace

19 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Evolution of the Bustle Daytime dress, 1874

20 Evolution of the Bustle The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

21 Evolution of the Bustle The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

22 Evolution of the Bustle A Visual Timeline

23 Undergarments The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

24 Active Sports & Clothing Bathing costume, 1874

25 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Manufacturing Textile and Clothing Production Power looms replaced handlooms Synthetic dyes became common and were more reliable Silks were weighted Cotton fabrics were improved with mercerizing Womens ready-to-wear clothing became available in department stores Mail-order catalogs proved successful for rural shoppers

26 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Visual Arts & Costume Pre-Raphaelite Dress Jane Morris by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1868 Symphony in White No 1 by James MccNeill Whistler, 1862 May Morris by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1872

27 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Visual Arts & Costume Aesthetic Dress Countess Brownlow, 1879 Oscar Wilde, 1882 Couple in Aesthetic Dress, 1880s

28 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Visual Arts & Costume Aesthetic Dress A Private View at the Royal Academy 1881 William Powell Frith

29 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Visual Arts & Costume Art Nouveau House of Worth, 1898

30 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Costume for Women The 1890s Fashion Plate, 1892 Evening gowns, 1893

31 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Costume for Women The 1890s Tailor-mades, 1890s

32 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Costume for Women The 1890s 1890s

33 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Costume for Women The 1890s Walking Suits, 1894Bicycle suit, 1890s

34 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: Costume for Men


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