1. Instructor: Deborah Brunson by appointment 646-7354, Office: Rm 119, CFTA dbrunson@nmsu.edu Website: http://www.nmsutheatre.com/thtr307V.php http://www.nmsutheatre.com/thtr307V.php (under construction) theatre.nmsu.edu/thtr307/INDEX.htm

2. Resident Costume Designer Dept of Theatre Arts 1987-present BFA- The University of Alabama MFA- The University of Texas at Austin Design for theatre and film Specialty Fabrication Clothing Historian & Consultant

3. YOU WILL LEARN: To identify the visual stamp of time periods chronologically from the Egyptians to the future with specific emphasis on clothing including the general aesthetics of a period, plus fashion silhouette, cut, color, fabric, decoration and accessories. To relate various dress practices to the social, economic, religious, psychological, aesthetic and technical factors in the particular society that produced them. To visually put yourself back in time, to try to imagine what life was like in these time periods. To be able to accurately date paintings, sculpture or other primary sources by identifying clothing details.

4. To learn to accurately assess the quality of a source for study, whether written, digital or extant. To relate technical concepts to their impact on clothingwhether it be discoveries or inventions, or innovations in cut, fit, or wearing practices. To understand the importance of costume and how it relates to all aspects of the theatre, television, film, media, and digital presentation, particularly how it affects the movement and behavior of a performer or presenter, as well as its potential impact on an audience.

5. YOU WILL BE EXPECTED TO COMPLETE: *Redrawings 2 Redrawings for each period--1 male and 1 female. (unless otherwise noted)These are due at the beginning of class on the Tuesday of the week following when the periods were covered. They will only be collected at this time and place. If you forget them, you have lost your opportunity to turn them in. If I agree to accept one late, you must send it to me electronically by a specified time, and then follow up with a hard copy. All Redrawings must be done from PRIMARY SOURCES and must include required information Pages should not be permanently bound, please use one side of full-sized paper, only

6. *Exams. There will be four exams throughout the semester, the fourth one being at final time. *Costume Film Analysis. There are 2, which should be selected from the provided list. A format for these reports is provided. * Save all classwork until the end of the semester when grading is completed. ***I DO NOT ACCEPT LATE WORK. Please note that if you turn in an assignment at any other time and place than is specified, I cannot guarantee its security.

7. Attendance Policy: There is no book--so the lectures, and visual sources used in class are the bulk of the materials presented, therefore, I recommend that regular attendance be high on your priority list. More than 2 absences will result in a lowering of your grade at the discretion of the teacher. Please be on time for all classes. THE ULTIMATE NON- PARTICIPATION IS NON-ATTENDANCE!!!

8. Grading: Redrawings........................................100 4 Tests..............................100 each= 400 2 Film Analysis.....................50 each= 100 = 600 total points ÷ 6 = Your Grade ***Please note that with the fractional grading option, students with perfect attendance and no late assignments may be bumped up to a plus, while students with multiple absences and late assignments may be moved down with a minus.

9. Technology : I currently post my power point lectures on the website for your assistance in study, HOWEVER, past problems with technology have occasionally caused me to be unable to post the latest version. You should keep this in mind when determining the percentage you choose to rely on the website. PLEASE DO NOT HAVE YOUR CELL PHONE ON IN MY CLASS PLEASE DO NOT TEXT MESSAGE IN MY CLASS

10. Costume Film REPORT REQUIREMENTS Must be selected from the PROVIDED LIST. MUST BE TYPED! Must be turned in--not emailed--at the beginning of class on the due date. Please edit AND proofread for spelling, grammar and content. NO TXT FORMAT!!! Please use complete sentences. The report should be written in the following format: 1. Title, Director, Production Company, Costume Designer, Year Released: 2. Why did you pick this movie to review? 3. Do you think the film makers wanted to accurately portray the clothing/period, or do you think they wanted to make a theatrical statement by taking liberties with historical accuracy? Give me 2 reasons to support your opinion. 4. Do you think that this movie could have just as easily gotten its point across set in modern times, or did it need the historical setting to be most effective? WHY? 5. Would you like to have lived in this time period---and WHY? 6. Name one clothing item from this period that you would have enjoyed wearing---and WHY? 7. Name one clothing item from this period that you would NOT have enjoyed wearing---and WHY? 8. Did this film portray multiple tiers of society? Name two of them, and describe the differences between them. Tell me which group you think you would have belonged to and WHY?

11. Redrawings Re-drawing Checklist: 1. Did you use a primary source? 2. Did you include your name, the period, the historical source and the research source? 3. Did you highlight the pertinent features on the figure? 4. Did you use a full-(but not over) sized, un-lined, un-bound sheet of paper? 5. Did you use only one side of the paper? 6. Did you use only one figure per paper?

12. The Other Official stuff….

13. Period Breakdown Egypt 4000 BC-30 BC Greece 3000 BC-100 BC Rome 735 BC-323 AD Romanesque/Byzantine 900- 1200 Gothic 1200-1450 Renaissance 1450-1550 Elizabethan 1550-1625 Cavalier 1625-1660 Restoration 1660-1700 Georgian 1700-1795 Empire 1795-1815 Romantic 1815-1840 Crinoline 1840-1865 Bustle 1865-1890 Fin de Siecle 1890-1900 Edwardian 1900-1908 Neo-Empire 1908-1914 World War I 1914-1919 20's 1919-1929 30s 1929-1939 40's 1939-1947 50's 1947-1959 60's 1959-1971 70's 1971-1980 80's 1980-? 90's ? New Millennium ?

14. CLASS SCHEDULE- Fall 2013 Aug 22 Introduction 27 The Study of Dress 29 Egypt Sept 3 Greece / Rome 5 Romanesque / Byzantine 10 Gothic 12 Renaissance 17 TEST 19 Elizabethan 24 Cavalier 26 Restoration Oct 1 Georgian 3 Empire 8 TEST

15. 10 Romantic 15 Crinoline 17 Bustle 1 st Movie Report due 22 Fin de Siecle / Edwardian 24 Neo-Empire / WW1 29 TEST 3 1 1920s Nov 5 1930s 7 1940s 12 1950s 14 1960s 19 1970s 2 nd Movie Report due 21 1980s 26-28 NO CLASS- THANKSGIVING !!! 3 1990s Dec 5 The New Millennium & Beyond! 10 FINAL EXAM 10:30am-12:30pm

16. Some random --yet relative things things that interest me right now…

17. N otable trends…… 2 current trends reference historic clothing: Steam punk Hipster (and they followed Goth…!) Plus vintage, retro, and authentic Plus gaming & Fan favorites

23. Technology: Google Glass

24. Collar turns to helmet on impact Detects and alerts presence of greenhouse gas Monitors muscle development Lights up when you stop, goes dark when you walk

25. 3-D Printing!!! www.shapeways.com

26. 3-D printed gown designedfor Dita von Teese by costume and jewelry designer Michael Schmidt and architect Francis Bitoni (mostly over Skype!)Printed in 17 sections, then hand-stitched together and then covered with Swarovski crystals http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/06/10/by-design-a-crystal-crusted-gown- made-with-a-3-d-printer/?_r=0

27. SOCIALLY CONSCIOUS FASHION

28. The people vs…………. Arab Spring 99%..............1% Recent controversy over the JC Penney Back-to-School TV ad Recent story of Oprah being told by a salesperson in Zurich shop that she couldnt see a purse because she couldnt afford it

30. Bamboo FIN Micro-fiber Charmone Waterless dyeing Airdye ECO FASHION Environmentally conscious fashion

31. Local….Local….Local…… Think Globally, act locally Made-in-America Farm-to-Table Slow Fashion

32. FARM-to-TABLE

35. Alabama Chanin

37. INDIVIDUALISM in DESIGN QUALITY and ARTISTRY in CRAFTSMANSHIP Value Authorship

38. Fashion with a political message

39. Unlikely Style Icons… What Ali Wore http://alioutfit.tumblr.com Photographer Zoe Spawton began to notice this interestingly dressed gentleman walk by the café where she works each day in Berlin. She bean to photograph his outfits, and the whole thing has gone VIRAL. Turns outAli, 83, is originally from Turkey but has lived in Berlin for 44 years. He is a retired doctor, who has 18 children, lives alone, and works 6 days a week as a tailor. He two do not share a language, but have formed this amazing friendship, and fashion admirers worldwide….

42. Jak & Jil blogspot The Sartorialist

43. Body Acceptance

46. Your Heroes? Who Influences You? Who Inspires You? The 99%, worldwide… Sir Richard Branson * Elon Musk Bono Bill Gates * Jimmy Wales * Mark Zuckerberg Jon Stewart * Stephen Colbert Ai Weiwei * Aung San Suu Kyi William & Kate (Steve Jobs….. Alexander McQueen)

49. ANNIE LENNOX Costumes at the London Olympics …..and while we are on the subjectkudos to London FOR the Olympics

51. Rick Owens

53. Thom Browne

54. Barbara Igogini Valentino Stella McCartney

55. Titania Inglis