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The Possibilities of Fair Trade: Towards a Taxonomy of Fairly Traded Clothing Organisations Kellie Dalton & Pierre McDonagh Paper presented to the 13 th.

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Presentation on theme: "The Possibilities of Fair Trade: Towards a Taxonomy of Fairly Traded Clothing Organisations Kellie Dalton & Pierre McDonagh Paper presented to the 13 th."— Presentation transcript:

1 The Possibilities of Fair Trade: Towards a Taxonomy of Fairly Traded Clothing Organisations Kellie Dalton & Pierre McDonagh Paper presented to the 13 th International Greening of Industry Network Conference 2006 Business School

2 Research Area What constitutes the dynamic of a Fair Trade clothing organisation? We offer this taxonomy as a first step in answering this question

3 Business Ethics and Ethical Fashion Roots of ecological accountability in the clothing industry Oxymornons?? Frameworks of CSR Opportunities for alleviating the ecological crisis

4 Fashion & Apparel Sector Towards a taxonomy of ethical/fairtrade clothing organisations Green management –Drumwrights (1994)Four Categories Founders, Symbolism, Opportune, Restraint

5 Fig. 2 Taxonomy of Ethical/Fairtrade Clothing Organisations MainstreamClothingOrganisation(M.C.O) Fairtrade Certified ClothingOrganisation FAIRTRADE Certified/ Organic Cotton/Alternative Textile/Chemical- Free Dyes/ Sweatshop Free Labour/Animal Cruelty Free/Renewable Energy/Recyclable Packaging/ Reinvestment back into communities/ minimised transport Drumwrights Categories: Symbolism Opportune Restraint Drumwrights Categories: Founders

6 Explanation of the Taxonomy Animal Cruelty-Free Recycled (second-hand clothing (including purchases on Ebay), charity shops, swap shops, vintage clothing and clothing made from recycled material) Chemical-Free/Natural Dyes ECO-Labels Alternative Textiles/Sustainable Fabrics

7 Explanation of the Taxonomy Organic Textiles Sweatshop-Free Labour Labour Standards Ethical/Fair-Made/Fair trade (not certified) Fairtrade Certified Others

8 Fig. 2 Taxonomy of Ethical/Fairtrade Clothing Organisations MainstreamClothingOrganisation(M.C.O) Fairtrade Certified ClothingOrganisationFAIRTRADE Certified/ Organic Cotton/Alternative Textile/Chemical- Free Dyes/ Sweatshop Free Labour/Animal Cruelty Free/Renewable Energy/Recyclable Packaging/ Reinvestment back into communities/ minimised transport LABOUR STANDARDS: Ethical Trade Initiative (ETI) SA8000 Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production (WRAP) Fair Labour Association (FLA) SEDEX UN Global Compact ILO Standard FAIRTRADE Not Certified (combination of ethical labour & environmental operations) Sweatshop Free Labour Organic Certification: Cotton Linen Cord Wool Hemp Skins Leather ALTERNATIVE TEXTILES: Hemp Bamboo Sugar Cane PCD Eco-friendly Silk (Kalahari) Wild Silk Ingeo (corn-based) Merino Wool PCR Polyester M.C.O with Labour Standard Product Offering M.C.O with Charity Donation/ Reinvestment of Profit Product Offering M.C.O with Re-Create/ Recycled Product Offering M.C.O with Organic Cotton Product Offering M.C.O with Alternative Textile Product Offering M.C.O with Fairtrade Certified Product Offering

9 Fig. 2 Taxonomy of Ethical/Fairtrade Clothing Organisations MainstreamClothingOrganisation(M.C.O) Bishopston Trading Epona Gossypium Hug People Tree TraidcraftFAIRTRADE Certified/ Organic Cotton/Alternative Textile/Chemical- Free Dyes/ Sweatshop Free Labour/Animal Cruelty Free/Renewable Energy/Recyclable Packaging/ Reinvestment back into communities/ minimised transport LABOUR STANDARDS: Katharine Hamnett EDUN Loomstate Noir Equop Funky Gandhi Ideo THTC Tonic t-shirts Sweatshop Free Labour: American Apparel Deborah Lindquist Howies Linda Loudermilk Organic Certification: EDUN Howies Katharine Hamnett Linda Loudermilk Loomstate Noir ALTERNATIVE TEXTILES: Bamboosa Deborah Milner EDUN Katharine Hamnett Linda Loudermilk Noir Debenehams Gap Levis M&S New Look Primark (RED) Products Converse GAP Armani 1% for the Planet Patagonia Armani Heatherette H&M Patagonia Topshop Urban Outfitters H&M Jerrrey Chow M&S Nike Oasis Paul Smith Proenza Schouler Sainsburys Adidas Armani Converse Diane von Furstenburg Imitation of Christ Nike Oscar de la Renta M&S

10 Fair Trade Disclosure Critical Education Theory of Sustainable Communication Insights from an operational standpoint

11 Practical Application of Taxonomy Helps understand sectoral position on Fairtrade Taxonomy serves as a communication tool Real solutions based on current market activity Integration of CSR policies and practices into fashion & apparel organisational strategy

12 Future Research Examine aesthetic of fashion done ethically Fast fashion to slow fashion Stamina for consistency and growth in high- street retail CSR in high fashion Fashionable ethics vs Ethical fashion?

13 END PRESENTATION

14 Categories of organisations involved in Socially Responsible Organisational Buying (Source: Drumwright, 1994) Category of Organisation Definition of Category Type 1: Founders Ideals An extension of the founders ideals and values Type 2: Symbolism Being socially responsible stemmed from managements recognition that socially responsible behaviour was inextricably linked to the companys successes and to discouraging further regulation that would alter the industrys structure Type 3: OpportuneMotivated by a compelling competitive advantage unrelated to social responsibility Type 4: Restraint Do not have a deliberate strategy of socially responsible buying. Socially responsible buying has non-negligible costs here


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