Presentation on theme: "“Society of dyers & Colorists” and “The Textile Institute, UK”."— Presentation transcript:
1“Society of dyers & Colorists” and “The Textile Institute, UK”. 3rd International Conference on Textiles and Clothing organized by Institute of Textile & Industrial Sciences, UMT Lahorewith collaboration of“Society of dyers & Colorists” and “The Textile Institute, UK”.“THE STUDY OF SHRINKAGE BEHAVIOR OF RIGID AND STRETCHABLE DENIM FABRICS APPLYING DIFFERENT WASHING TECHNIQUES”Nadeem AfrazLecturer (Textile Engineering)Bahauddin Zakariya University College of Textile Engineering, Multan.Dr. Nabeel AminDirector/Asst. Professor (Textiles)Institute of Textile and Industrial Sciences, UMT, Lahore.
2AbstractThe shrinkage margins of garment before washing are set in blanket form, and after washing these shrinkage margins do not meet pre-calculated shrinkage values and ultimately garment “fit to body” out sizes marginally.
3Objectives of Studies To control the dimension variations of garments To control the size chart variationsTo improve MARKER efficiency.To reduce rejection rate .To identify shrinkage changes with respect to the type of fabric.
4Shrinkage BehaviorThe term shrinkage can simply be defined as a change in the dimensions of a fabric or garment, there are number of factors that influence fabricsOne major factor is that fabric Shrink because it under stresses during manufacturing and in relaxed form while garment washed.
5Experiment DesignFabric Selection:Denim fabric is manufactured in a number of types but with the view of preciseness we select its major kinds which are in 3/1 Right hand twill (RHT) Rigid and Stretchable with weight range 9 Ozs./yd .
6Conditioning of Samples: Temperature: 21oC ± 1oC Shrinkage TestShrinkage percentage was calculated in both warp and weft directions by using AATCC test methodConditioning of Samples:Temperature: 21oC ± 1oCRelative humidity: 65% ± 2%Time: 4 hours before and 4 hours after washTwo form of denim were used to compare shrinkage:BlanketsPanels/Leg tubes.
7Stages of Garment Washing Process Stone washEnzyme washBleach washStage 1Load of Garment and stonesLoad of GarmentStage 2Enzymatic DesizingStage 3RinseStage 4Stage 5Stage 6ExtractStage 7Tumble DryerStage 8Unload
8Recipe for Enzyme De-sizing NameQuantityEnzyme50ml (1% on the wt of garment)AntistainWetting Agent25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)De-sizing ProcedureLiquor Ratio 1:10140 °FProcess time 15 minutesLoading Capacity 120 KgsExtraction at 450 RPM.Rinse time 3 minutes
9Recipe for Stone Wash Name Quantity Weight of stone 5kg (Standard weight)Antistain25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)ChemwetStone Wash Procedure140 °FProcess time 40 minutesRinse time 3 minutesLoading Capacity 120 KgsExtraction at 450 RPM
1025ml (0.5% on the wt of garment) Chemwet Recipe for Enzyme washNameQuantityValuemax(A326)50mlAntistain25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)ChemwetEnzyme Washing Procedure140 °FProcess time 40 minutesRinse time 3 minutesLoading Capacity 120 KgsExtraction at 450 RPM
11Recipe for Bleach Wash Name Quantity NaOCl 1 liter Antichlor 500 gm Bleach Washing Procedure140 °FProcess time 40 minutesRinse time 3 minutesLoading Capacity 120 KgsExtraction at 450 RPM
16Results and Discussion In general Shrinkage is greater in Blanket Form than in Panels in all washing techniques.Enzymatic De-sizing causes minimum Shrinkage in Stretchable fabric either in Blanket or Panel form.Stretchable fabric shrinks more in weft because Lycra is used in it.
17RecommendationsIt is recommended that in denim garment manufacturing the shrinkage should be measured in panel form rather than in blanket form and size chart be made accordingly based on the shrinkage rate occur in panel followed by specific washing technique demanded by customer.The shrinkage margins may be set in size chart of garment as per required wash and garment will ultimately “fit to size” that will ultimately reduce rejection and alteration rate of the garment unitShrinkage margin may be considered in MARKER Making-- that will improve marker efficiency and reduce wastage while calculating fabric for an order.
18Future works Study of construction shrinkage of the denim fabric. Study of processing shrinkage to make formula to calculate shrinkage on each washing technique.Study of performance properties of denim fabric/ garment applying different washing techniques.