3 Summarize how the serger functions. ObjectiveSummarize how the serger functions.
4 How the Serger Functions Sergers provide a factory-like finish to home-sewn garmentsAlso called overlock or overedge machinesIn one step, sergersjoin two layers of fabric to form a seamtrim extra seam allowanceand overcast fabric edgescontinued
6 How the Serger Functions Newer machines have stitches similar to regular sewing machine stitches but cannot embroider, make buttonholes, or insert zippersMost home sewers use the serger to supplement—not replace—a conventional sewing machinecontinued
7 How the Serger Functions Advantages of using a sergerWorks well on fabrics from lightweight chiffon to heavyweight denim, as well as knit and woven fabricsMake doing hems and ruffles quick and easyGive a professional seam finish to garments such as unlined jackets, curtains, place mats, and other itemscontinued
9 How the Serger Functions A serger loops thread around the needle thread, encasing the fabric edge (a sewing machine creates stitches by interlocking bobbin and needle threads)Looper threads do not penetrate the fabricThe needles and loopers form stitches over the fabric edge as it passes throughDuring stitching, knife blades trim the seam allowancescontinued
10 How the Serger Functions A serger performs many functions at the same time to create the stitchesAs you feed fabric into the machine, it reaches the feed dogs firstAs fabric moves along, the knives trim the edgeThen loopers and needles form the stitches on the fabricFabric then feeds off the stitch finger behind the needlecontinued
11 How the Serger Functions A serger runs much faster than a conventional sewing machineUsing a serger can reduce the sewing time of a project by as much as half
13 Identify serger machine parts and basic serger stitches. ObjectiveIdentify serger machine parts and basic serger stitches.
14 Serger Machine PartsAlthough there are a variety of types and models of sergers, they have many similaritiesThe instruction manual for a serger identifies the parts of the machine and the function of each
15 Basic Serger Stitches Serger stitches vary with machine make and model Aside from common stitches, sergers can produce decorative stitches for an interesting look and extra emphasis
22 Summarize how to select thread and accessories for the serger. ObjectiveSummarize how to select thread and accessories for the serger.
23 Selecting Thread and Accessories Special serger threads are available on cones or tubesAdvantages of serger threads includefineness for delicate finishing and less bulkstrengthcross-winding for smooth top feeding during high-speed sewinglarger quantitieseconomycontinued
27 ObjectiveDemonstrate how to thread and operate the serger, adjusting thread tensions and stitches as needed.
28 Threading the SergerFollow the directions in the owner’s manual provided with your sergerMany machines are marked with a color-coded threading guideThread the loopers and needles in the correct order; otherwise, the threads may break or stitches may not form properlycontinued
29 Threading the SergerAlways thread the loopers before the needles—the upper looper firstEach time you change thread, you can tie threads from the new spools to the old threads to save time
31 Operating the Serger4. Holding the thread chain or tails lightly behind the presser foot, serge a 2- to 3-inch thread chain; this is called chaining offPlace the fabric in front of the presser foot where the longer feed dogs will pull the fabric forward; do not push or pull the fabriccontinued
33 Operating the Serger7. Holding the fabric in one hand, pull the thread chain over the thread cutter on the presser foot shank
34 Adjusting Thread Tension Thread tensions may need to be adjusted for changes in fabrics, threads, stitch typeA serger has a tension regulator for each threadTo make tension adjustments, turn the dial by only half or one number; test sew and check the results
35 Adjusting Stitch Length and Width When fabrics, threads, or stitches are changed, the stitch length and width may need to be adjustedUse shorter, narrower stitches for lightweight fabricsUse longer, wider stitches for heavyweight fabricscontinued
36 Adjusting Stitch Length and Width Length of the stitch is distance in millimeters (mm) between needle penetrationsWidth of the stitch is distance in millimeters between the needle thread and the trimmed edge of the fabricStitchwidthStitchlengthcontinued
37 Adjusting Stitch Length and Width To change the length of the stitch, use the stitch length adjustment dialTo change the width of the stitch, some sergers have an adjustable dial; other sergers may require a change in the needle plate
38 Demonstrate proper use of a serger to construct a garment. ObjectiveDemonstrate proper use of a serger to construct a garment.
45 Mock Flat-Felled SeamMock flat-felled seam uses both the conventional sewing machine and the sergerUseful with denim and other heavyweight woven fabricscontinued
46 Mock Flat-Felled SeamStitch a standard seam with right sides together using the sewing machineUsing a serger, overlock the seam allowances together, trimming slightlyPress seam allowances toward one sidecontinued
47 Mock Flat-Felled Seam4. Using a sewing machine, topstitch from the right side next to the seam line 5. Topstitch again 1/4 inch away from the first topstitching line through all layers
49 Selecting a PatternMany commercial patterns are designed specifically for serger sewing, but the serger can be used to sew a garment from any pattern to some degreeSince sergers trim seam allowances as they sew, they are often used to sew loose, unfitted, knitted garments that do not require precise fitting
50 Transferring Pattern Markings Mark garment pattern pieces with a water-soluble or air-erasable marking pen or tailor’s chalkDon’t use notches because stitching with a serger removes them
51 Fit Before You Sew Be sure to fit before you sew Once a seam is stitched, the seam allowance is trimmed away
52 Construction OrderBest way to assemble a serged garment is to use the flat method of constructionWith this method, you sew flat pieces rather than pieces in the roundFor example, you finish necklines, armholes, sleeves, and hems before serging underarm and side seams
54 Demonstrate how to serge various types of seams. ObjectiveDemonstrate how to serge various types of seams.
55 Serging Seams Sewing seams with a serger is fast and easy The type of seam you choose depends on the garment design, type of fabric, and durability desiredYou need to know how to serge curves and corners and how to begin and end a seam
56 Overlock Seam Basic overlock seam is made using three or four threads Suitable for woven fabrics; ideal for knits because seams stretchSeam allowance is cut off as you sew so be sure of the fit before stitchingTo make this seam, place right sides of the fabric together and serge on the 5/8-inch seam line
58 Lapped SeamThis seam gives a decorative effect on the outside of the garment; ideal for reversible garments or thick, loosely woven fabricsSerge to the seam line on one side of the seam; on the other side, skim the edge of the seam with serging, leaving the seam allowancecontinued
59 Lapped Seam2. Lap trimmed seam edge over the other, aligning the 5/8-inch seam lines; use fusible web or fabric glue to hold layers in place 3. Using a conventional sewing machine, topstitch the seam together
61 Serging Curves and Corners To accurately serge inside or outside curves, watch the knife rather than the needleWhen serging in a circle, serge around the circle and overlap the stitching for one inch, then serge off the fabric’s edge
62 Serging Corners For outside corners Stitch along one side of the fabric and off the edge, leaving a chainStitch the next side, crossing and securing the first line of stitchingcontinued
63 Serging Corners For inside corners Mark the stitching line and cutting lineClip corner to within 1/8 inch of stitching lineWith the serger, stitch to the corner, stopping when the blade reaches corner cut markingPull the fabric toward you so the edge is straight, but a pleat forms to the left; continue stitching
64 Securing Seam Ends Serger stitches unravel if not secured If seams are crossed by other stitching, ends are secured, otherwise you need to secure the endsWays to secure seam endsKnot the thread chainBury the chainSecure the threads while stitchingUse liquid seam sealantcontinued
65 Securing Seam Ends To “bury the chain” after stitching, pull chain to smooth it out2. thread it through a large- eyed needle or loop turner and run it under 1 to 2 inches of overlocked stitches3. trim excess thread
66 Stabilizing SeamsGarment seams stitched with a serger may require stabilizingShoulder and neckline seams, front areas, and crotch seams are often stabilizedOne method is to use a row of straight stitching along the seam lineAnother method is to serge over twill tape, seam tape, or ribbon
68 Methods for Removing Seams Two-thread overlock—slide a seam ripper or scissors under stitches; pull out cut threadsThree-thread overlock—cut loops every three or four stitches; pull the needle thread and the stitches will come undoneTwo-thread double chain stitch—cut needle thread at end of seam; pull looper thread and the stitches will come undone
69 Perform routine care of the serger. ObjectivePerform routine care of the serger.
70 Serger CareThe serger will operate effectively with proper maintenanceRegularly clean the machine and oil with sewing machine oil as specified by the manufacturerUse a soft brush to remove the lint from the knife areacontinued
71 Serger Care Replace needles if stitches are not forming properly Replace blades when fabric is not cut smoothly
72 Name the three operations sergers can perform in one step. join two layers of fabric to form a seam, trim away extra seam allowance width, and overcast (finish) the fabric edges2. _____ in sergers replace the _____ in regular sewing machines that form the stitches.Loopers; bobbincontinued
73 3. Which serger stitch is used to create a very narrow hem? rolled edge stitch4. Which serger stitch is considered the core stitch because it can stitch, trim, and overedge a seam in one operation?overlock stitchcontinued
74 Name three advantages in using special serger thread when using a serger. (Name three) fineness for delicate finishing and less bulk, strength, cross-winding for smooth top feeding during high-speed sewing, larger quantities, economycontinued
75 What is chaining off and when is it done? serging a 2- to 3-inch thread chain while holding the thread chain or tails lightly behind the presser foot; done before placing fabric in front of presser footName the three methods of using a serger in clothing construction.one-step method, edge finish method, narrow double-stitched seam methodcontinued75
76 8. Why is it important to check the fit before you sew when using a serger? once a seam is stitched, the allowance is trimmed away, making it impossible to alter seamscontinued
77 9. Describe the flat method of construction and give an example. sew flat pieces rather than pieces in the round; example—finish necklines, armholes, sleeves, hems before serging underarm and side seamscontinued
78 Name four ways to secure seam ends. knot the thread chain, bury the chain, secure the threads while stitching, use liquid seam sealantName two ways to stabilize a serged seam.use a row of straight stitching along the seam line; serge over twill tape, seam tape, or ribbon78
79 chaining off. Serging off the edge of the fabric until a 2- to 3-inch thread chain forms. chain stitch. A serger stitch that does not overlock the edge of the fabric, but functions as a standard straight stitch when the cutting knives are disengaged.cone adapter. A device that allows a cone of thread to be used on a spool pin.
80 cones. Large spools of thread. continuous overcasting technique. Lining up several garment sections so the stitching is not broken as you move from the edge of one garment section to the next.cover stitch. A serger stitch used mainly for hemming, producing two or three parallel rows of topstitching on one side.
81 flatlock stitch. A two-thread stitch that uses one needle and one looper to join a seam. flat method of construction. Serging flat pieces together rather than pieces in the round.loopers. The parts of the serger that form the stitch.
82 mock flat-felled seam. A seam formed by using both the sewing machine and the serger. Topstitching completes the seam on the outside of the garment.narrow double-stitched seam. After stitching garment seams together on the sewing machine, they are serged together, placing the needle 1/8 inch from the stitching line.
83 overedge stitch. A two-thread stitch used solely as an edge finish on garments. overlock stitch. A three-, four-, or five-thread serger stitch that is useful for seaming purposes.rolled edge stitch. A two- or three-thread serger stitch that produces a rolled hem.
84 sergers. Machines that provide a factory-like finish to home-sewn garments. These machines join two layers of fabric to form a seam, trim away extra seam allowance width, and overcast the fabric edges all in one step. Also called overlock or overedge machines.
85 spool cap. A device placed over the thread spool to provide even feeding of thread to the serger. stabilizing. Adding extra strength to seams and areas that receive stress during wearing.thread net. A device that helps prevent thread tangling.