1. Long Lane Honey Bee Farms Honeybeesonline.com

2. Welcome to Long Lane Honey Bee Farm’s class, “Getting Bees Through The Winter.” Knowledge, education, skill and attitude go a long way to benefit your colonies. Even though you will gain more information today, it will be your responsibility to implement what you learn.

3. This class will offer many concepts, philosophies, management styles and equipment to be used or applied on domesticated honey bee colonies and hives. However, colonies can still perish in the winter from many unknown causes. For example, even when the best management practices are applied, a colony can still die from viruses or by becoming too cold due to low population caused by a failing queen. This class only provides examples on how to give your colony the best chance to make it through the winter. We do not claim that applying what you learn will guarantee your colony’s winter survival. A colony is a living organism subject to many unexpected health problems.

4. CLASS GOAL To learn the activities of the winter cluster in nature to survive the winter. To learn how individual bees build up reservoirs in their fat bodies for winter. Demonstration of a proper fall inspection to assess what changes must be made to prepare for winter. To learn various feeding options for fall, winter and early spring for maximum survival. To understand that most colonies die in the winter from varroa mites vectoring viruses and steps to take to test for mites and to reduce mites. To discuss various methods to wrap or shield a hive from winter winds. To review many tips and tricks that can help bees survive the winter.

6. When the outside temperature drops below 50 degrees (f) the bees form a cluster. The colder the outside temperature becomes, the tighter or smaller in diameter the cluster becomes.

9. Charles D. Owens in the early 70s conducted research on hives located in Madison, Wis, from Dec1 to March 31 over a 5 year period. “On January 4 between 0700 and midnight when the outside temperature was between 2 and 9 degrees (f), the cluster moved sideways and down into the center body.”

10. TEMPERATURES WITHIN A WINTER COLONY When brood is present mid 90s (f). Where brood is not present high 80s (f)

11. WHY BEES DIE FROM STARVATION IN A WINTER CLUSTER If the colony runs out of food around the brood area they cannot leave it during cold spells or the developing brood will perish.

12. In honey bees, vitellogenin molecules are deposited in their fat bodies located in their head and abdomens. These fat bodies are the bees’ reservoir of vital proteins.

13. After the first two days, the food is a mixture of “jelly” from the hypomandibular glands, and nectar from the honey sac. Worker jelly is low in sugar then increases in sugar content for older larvae.

14. Starving and heads to honey for energy then bulks up on protein/pollen Nurse bees feed the hive and must be well fed for their glands to provide royal jelly and worker jelly.

15. Molecule in the honeybees’ bodies that allows them to store protein Fat bodies in the head and abdomen New bees have more fat bodies and can over winter better because of their own stores of protein Not only do we want pollen in the comb, but stored in our bees as well

16. Low levels of vitellogenin in foragers Vitellogenin also acts not only as a food storage reservoir but as an antioxidant, suppressing oxidative stress damage. Bees live longer.

17. After several days of rain a hive can deplete its stored pollen and nurse bees are forced to use what is stored in their bodies

18. A variety of pollen sources is best but sometimes doesn’t happen. Harvesting your own pollen can sometimes be useful. Making pollen supplements require careful measurements Buy pollen substitutes

19. Vitellogenin levels drop because of the increase level of brood demanding fed In the fall dearth, bees burn the their stored pollen yet the mites are at their highest

20. A strong colony eats ½ pound of pollen a day or 3.5 pounds a week A colony has the same food requirements as a medium sized dog

22. Do not wait until the day before the first frost to inspect your hive. Inspecting your hive every two weeks gives you the edge of knowing how your bees are doing and what you should do throughout the year to keep help the colony stay strong.

23. WARNING: Never pull frames out of a hive if temperatures are below 65 degrees (f). You can take the top off quickly and peek, but pulling out frames of brood in cold weather can damage developing pupae.

24. - Condition of the queen - Population of colony - Amount of brood - Signs of pest and diseases

25. You MUST confirm that your queen is present and laying well. This is something you should have evaluated every two weeks throughout the year. Do not wait until this last inspection to make a change to your queen.

26. 60,000-80,000 This allows the cluster to be larger, to cover more resources and to be able to move in real cold weather to access resources beyond their immediate position. Smaller numbers will die in a cluster with honey a frame away.

27. Most beekeepers fail to grasp the importance of large numbers of new bees born between August and the end of the year. These new bees are going to have more stored resources in their fat bodies, less parasitized by the mites, and are younger. Remember a bee that has been parasitized by a mite will only live half its life. A winter bee can live 5 months but only 2 months when bitten by a mite. Thus, a colony that should have made it to April, perished in February or March from viruses vectored by varroa destructor.

28. Stimulate late summer and early fall brood rearing by: Feeding bees pollen and sugar heavily. Providing a young queen in late summer.

29. Here’s what you are looking for: Brood diseases such as AFB, EFB Small hive beetle infestation Varroa mite loads Nosema Ceranae

30. Fall-WARNING: Do not use entrance feeders in the fall as this may induce robbing. ONLY use frame feeders or top feeders. Make sure bees cannot drown or gain access from the outside into top feeders. The slightest imperfection in a seal at the top will allow bees to gain access and drown. SUGAR MIXTURE IN THE FALL IS 2 PARTS SUGAR TO 1 PART WATER

31. While there are more options to feed your bees during later summer and fall, there are fewer options during the winter, mainly because hives should not be opened during cold seasons.

32. WARNING: Feeding bees liquid sugar when they are clustered may require additional cleansing flights. But due to cold temperature the bees cannot gain access to the outdoors. Protein and harder sugar is preferred during the winter.

33. Winter-Bee-Kind. This system combines the need for an upper vent/entrance/exit for easier cleansing flights, a sheet of insulation on the top of the hive to reduce condensation and a food supply consisting of both sugar and protein and essential oils.

34. Winter-Bee-Kind Top Feeder Frame Feeder (If it is warm enough to open and remove frames) Entrance Feeder, provided the bees are flying in and out of the entrance Pollen patties above the brood nest area

35. The varroa mite was first introduced into our country in 1987, although the literature identifies the spotting of one varroa mite in Maryland in 1979. Since 1987 mites have spread rapidly throughout the US.

38. Impact on Colonies Deformed Wing Virus & other viruses

39. VSH (LN) Green Drone Comb

41. Powered Sugar Dusting

42. Pull your queen, let’s say on July 10th and place in a green drone comb full of uncapped larva. (The green drone comb step is not essential if you cannot utilize it). This can be prepared in a second hive or the current hive if timed right. The hive remains queenless from July 10-July 25. Remove queen cells on July 20th and Introduce a newly mated queen into the colony on July 25th. Again, do not speed up her coming out of the cage. Do not poke a hole in the candy. Breaking the brood cycle along with other IPM methods can greatly decrease the number of mites in your hive.