1. Neil Watson The Body Shop Neil.watson@thebodyshop.com
Skin Products
Neil Watson
The Body Shop

2. Formulating cleansing products
Formulating moisturising products
Control of body odour and sweat
Sun Protection
Removal of unwanted hair

3. Cleansing products Product types
Soap. (Superfatted soap, Transparent/ Glycerin soap, Translucent/ pearlised soap, Combo Bars (Dove Beauty Bar, Syndet bars.)
Emulsions. (Creams, Lotions, Milk, Cold Cream,
Rinse –off emulsions (foaming cleansers)).
Liquid synthetic detergents.
Gels. (Surfactant, basic viscous lotion).
Wipes.
Masks.
Mousse.
Scrubs.
Toners.

4. Skin types
Dry skin
Normal/Combi skin
Oily skin

5. Moisturising Products
14 April 2017

6. Formulating moisturising products
Emollients
An emollient is a material which, when applied to the skin makes it feel soft and smooth.
Humectants
These exhibit hygroscopic behaviour, they can draw in and hold onto large amounts of water.

7. What makes a good moisturiser?
You need to understand the skin type you are formulating for.
You need to understand target area
It should feel nice on application, not too greasy.
It shouldn’t ‘soap up’
It should smell nice, or have no base odour

8. Additives Natural additives Hydroxyacids Vitamins EFAs Polysaccharides
Delivery vehicles – liposomes, encapsulates

9. Control of body odour and sweating
14 April 2017

10. Sweat Apocrine – contains proteins and amino acids Eccrine
Main source of nutrients for bacteria
Eccrine
– salt and water

11. Formulations
3 actions
Odour modification – deodorising action or masking
Fragrance
Odour removal – washing
Odour prevention – anti-perspirants
Aluminum Chlorohydrate
Aluminum zirconium Chlorohydrate

12. Product formats Roll-on – good skin contact, efficacy
Might pull your hair, longer drying time
Aerosol – quick drying time
Hygienic
Stick - good skin contact, efficacy
Poor hygiene profile
Cream – excellent skin contact
messy

13. Efficacy testing Olfactory Gravometric Sniff test – trained noses
Controlled conditions
Weighing the amount of sweat
At least 20% reduction in sweat levels in treated versus untreated

14. Sun protection
14 April 2017

15. Suncare products How does sunlight affect the skin?
Tanning through darkening of melanin precursors
Skin damage – sunburn, premature ageing, skin cancer
Free radicals

16. UVA & UVB light UVB – (290-320nm) UVA – (320-400nm)
Responsible for long term damage
Can penetrate glass
UVB – ( nm)
Causes sunburn (erythema)

17. Sunscreens
A Sunscreen is the UV light absorbing agent that helps to lower the incidence of dermal malignancies. The function of the sunscreen is the protection of the skin from damaging UV light.
Physical sunscreens
Chemical Sunscreens

18. SPF calculations and star rating
SPF = Time to produce erythema in protected skin
Time to produce erythema in unprotected skin
Star Rating = mean UVA/UVB ratio
0 to <0.2 too low to make UVA claim

19. Hair Removal
14 April 2017

20. How do we remove hair? Mechanical Chemical Tweezing Threading
Electrical epilation
Electrolysis
Sugaring
Waxing
Shaving
Chemical
Thiglycollates
Enzymes

21. Epilation & Depilation
Epilation – is a process of hair removal from below the skin’s surface
Depilation – is a process of the temporary removal of hair from the surface of the skin.

22. Shaving Wet shave Dry shave Soften hair Mechanical removal
Reducing friction on skin

23. Depilatories Thyoglycollate Enyzme based
Work by breaking the disulphide linkages in the keratin hair fibres, and totally disintegrate the hair
Enyzme based
These contain protein-digesting enzymes (papain is a good example. Treat the empty hair follicle to reduce hair growth over a number of months