1. Bearded Collie Club Of America Judges’ Education Seminar
PRESENTED BY BCCA MENTORS
ILLUSTRATIONS FROM THE BCCA ILLUSTRATED STANDARD
Illustrated by Chet Jezierski
Designed by Cynthia Mahigian Moorhead

2. CONTENT OF SEMINAR History of breed
Interactive study of the breed standard, with breed mentors and live dogs
Hands on opportunity
Welcome to the 2014 BCCA Judges’ Education Seminar – whether judge, breeder or owner, we hope by attending this seminar it will add to your depth of knowledge of our wonderful breed. We are experimenting this year using materials approved by the breed club but attempting to make the session more interactive. We have four breeders or specialist judges who will give their opinions at any stage of the presentation.
We’re very informal…we will have a Q and A session, but if you have a question or comment as we move through the seminar, please pipe up!
You are guinea pigs…this is the first use of this slide presentation. It is a merging of the BCCA’s Illustrated Standard and the breed study developed by Chantal Andrew and the Judges Education committee. Thanks to that group for all their work, to those that contributed photos and editing assistance to the original breed study and this version and to Chet for the concept and illustrations, and Cynthia for the design of the Illustrated Standard.
Thanks to those who have volunteered their dogs for the hands on component. And, thanks to the club’s mentors for assisting at ringside.

3. OBJECTIVES
To promote an understanding of history, origin, and characteristics that make up the whole dog
To understand the nuances of evaluating a dog on the stand for examination, and gaiting
To link form and function
To put knowledge into practice

4. Learning Package History from AKC Judges’ Education
BCCA Breed Study booklet
BCCA Illustrated Standard
DVD with today’s slide presentation and other helpful presentations
AKC Breed Test and Answer Sheet
(must be submitted to presenters by judges attending, to receive credit)
Hands-On Breed Evaluation Form
Participant Evaluation Form

5. History and Origin
Bearded Collies were developed in Scotland as shepherds and drovers.
They were called various names in the past. Now, they are affectionately known as Beardies.
Little is actually known of the breed’s early history. Beardies likely came from a combination of imported European herding dogs mixed with local UK talent.

6. HISTORY
There were originally two types of Beardies: the border type along the Scotland- England border with long coarse, slate-colored coat; and, the smaller highland type with shorter, wavy brown coat. These are blended into the modern beardie.
Beardies needed to work independently of the shepherd using a ringing bark and the “huntaway style.”
Harsh coats protected them from brush and weather. Agile, lithe yet strong bodies helped them maneuver and leap on the rough, rocky terrain and work efficiently and tirelessly.
Beardies survived due to their value as sheepdogs and drovers. Mrs. Willison began to breed them post WW II for show purposes. A breed standard was developed which supported breeding to some consistency.
Beardies were introduced to the US in 1950’s; the first litter was bred in 1967; the BCCA was founded in 1969; the breed was approved to show by the AKC in 1974 and became eligible for the Working Group in 1977.
The current standard was approved in 1978.
AKC Bearded Collie Breed Standard

7. These are typical of early Bearded Collies; lean but strong, agile and lithe herding dogs. The broad, flat skull, long muzzle, and soulful expression were evident. The harsh texture coat was also present. Coat length is the major change with today’s Beardies.

8. Anatomical Points in the Standard
In the Illustrated Standard, the official standard appears in black type, with blue type indicating expansion text, clarifying specific details in the standard.
Illustrations are from the BCCA’s Illustrated Standard by Chet Jezierski, designed by Cynthia Mahigian Moorhead.
Anatomical Points in the Standard
Anatomical Points Referenced in the Breed Standard

9. Characteristics
The Bearded Collie is hardy and active, with an aura of strength and agility characteristic of a real working dog.
Bred as a companion and servant of man, the Bearded Collie is a devoted and intelligent member of the family. He is stable and self- confident, showing no signs of shyness or aggression. This is a natural and unspoiled breed.
This is one of the best illustrations we have.
Fix this picture of the Bearded Collie in your mind. When you are judging, this is what you should be looking for.

10. General Appearance
The Bearded Collie is a medium sized dog with a medium length coat that follows the lines of the body and allows plenty of daylight under the body.
The body is long and lean, strongly made and does not appear heavy.
A bright inquiring expression is a distinctive feature of the breed.
The Bearded Collie should be shown in a natural stance.

11. Character/Temperament
Hardy/aura of strength
Active
Devoted companion
Intelligent
Stable/self-confident
Bright/inquiring expression
The standard does not have a specific section on temperament but addresses the breed’s character in the opening description of
Characteristics and with key words throughout.

12. HEAD
Muzzle
Stop
Backskull
Occiput
The head is in proportion to the size of the dog. The skull is broad and flat; the stop is moderate; the checks are well filled beneath the eyes; the muzzle is strong and full; the foreface is equal in length to the distance between the stop and the occiput. The nose is large and squarish. A snipy muzzle is to be penalized.
* The head should be strong, in proportion to the muzzle, and to the INDIVIDUAL dog/bitch. It forms a smooth, blunt wedge, being slightly wider at the back, than at the front, tapering to the muzzle.
* A flat backskull and a flat muzzle joined by a sloping stop will be approximately parallel, though there may be some slight downturn.

13. * The backskull is about the breadth of an average-sized hand, allowing for difference in size of dog or bitch.
* When encircling the muzzle with your hand, the thumb and forefinger should not meet.

14. We are seeing some foreshortened muzzles, which are not correct
We are seeing some foreshortened muzzles, which are not correct. The dog on the left has a correctly proportioned, pleasing head. The dog on the right has a muzzle that is shorter than its backskull, which affects its overall expression and is incorrect.
Which head is correct?

15. Which head is in correct proportion to the body?
Top left – head too large for body.
Lower left – head too small for body.

16. Eyes
The eyes are large, expressive, soft and affectionate, but not round nor protruding, and are set widely apart.
The eyebrows are arched to the sides to frame the eyes and are long enough to blend smoothly into the coat on the sides of the head.
The eyes are large, expressive, soft and affectionate, but not round nor protruding, and are set widely apart.
The ideal expression is soft, melting, and inquiring. The eyes are more oval than almond-shaped. Puppies and young adults have softer coats, which will often flop over their eyes.
The eyebrows are arched to the sides to frame the eyes and are long enough to blend smoothly into the coat on the sides of the head.
Left - These eyes are too close to give the correct inquiring expression
Right - These eyes are set correctly, show the typical size and shape that
allow for the ideal expression.
Which is correct?

17. Which of the ear sets are correct? (Hint: two are correct)
The ears are medium-sized, hanging and covered with long hair. They are set level with the eyes. When a dog is alert, the ears have a slight lift at the base.
Standard - The ears are medium-sized, hanging and covered with long hair. They are set level with the eyes. When a dog is alert, the ears have a slight lift at the base.
Beardie ears may fold horizontally or vertically. Either is correct. Ears should fit on the head with the opening level with the eyes, giving breadth to the head.
Top - These ears are set on too high
Right - This is a correct earset. The ears are slightly lifted at the base, Indicating alertness.
Bottom right - These ears are correct but depict the ears at rest..
Which of the ear sets are correct? (Hint: two are correct)

18. Examples of Puppy Heads
Note the deep muzzle and moderate stop already apparent.
Note the soft expression, wide set eyes, deep muzzle and ear placement in this young puppy.

19. Examples of Adult Heads
Upper left – Mature male. This is the same dog as the previous puppy grown into a mature dog. Note the soft expression, wide set eyes, deep muzzle and proper ear placement at rest.
Upper left – Mature brown female. Long muzzle with downward slant, moderate stop, length of muzzle and backskull approximately equal.
Lower left - The head has nice planes. The hair is teased or fluffed, which can create
a domed effect.
Lower right – Young slate male in profile.

20. Teeth The teeth are strong and white, meeting in a scissors bite.
Full dentition is desirable.
* Lack of teeth (such as premolars and molars) from the time of adult teeth eruption, leads to short and/or weak muzzles.
* However, broken or missing teeth on a working dog are not unusual and should not be faulted.

21. Neck
The neck is in proportion to the length of the body, strong and slightly arched, blending smoothly into the shoulders.

22. Forequarters
The shoulders are well laid back at an angle of approximately 45 degrees; a line drawn from the highest point of the shoulder blade to the forward point of articulation approximates a right angle with a line from the forward point of articulation to the point of the elbow.
45 degrees
90 degrees
The tops of the shoulder blades lie in against the withers, but they slope outwards from there sufficiently to accommodate the desired spring of ribs. The legs are straight and vertical, with substantial, but not heavy, bone and are covered with shaggy hair all around. The pasterns are flexible without weakness.

23. Which shoulder and upper arm structure supports proper reach?
45 degrees
90 degrees
Withers should be no more than two fingers’ width apart. The upper arm should be equal in length to the well laid-back shoulder blade. Short upper arms restrict front reach. Proper movement comes from adequate length of shoulder blade and upper arm.
Upper left - This correctly proportioned upper arm and well laid-back shoulder allow for proper reach.
Lower left - This short upper arm restricts front reach and may cause hackney or other undesirable movement. .
Which shoulder and upper arm structure supports proper reach?

24. Forechest
* The standard is silent on the ideal regarding forechest. Beardies are lean bodied dogs, but require some forechest or prosternum to adequately support the front carriage, shoulder and ribcage.
* The forechest/prosternum is found by sliding your hand down the shoulder blade to the joint with upper arm and moving to the center of the upper chest of the dog. Some protrusion should be felt. Males usually have more forechest than bitches.
* While the chest is growing, (between 9 months and 2-3 years), the forechest may seemingly disappear and then redevelop.

25. Body
The body is longer than high in a ratio of 5:4, length from point of chest to point of buttocks, height at the highest point of the withers. The length of back comes from the length of the ribcage not loin. The back is level. The ribs are well sprung from the spine but are flat at the sides. The chest is deep, reaching at least to the elbows. The loins are strong. The level back line blends smoothly into the curve of the rump. A flat or steep croup is to be severely penalized.
* With the exception of the Corgis, the Beardie is the LONGEST-BODIED of the herding breeds, with 5:4 proportion, length to height. A Beardie should be rectangular, NEVER square or cobby. Beardies that are too short on leg may give the illusion of proper proportion.

26. SIZE
The ideal height at the withers is 21-22” for dogs and 20-21” for bitches. Height over and under the ideal is to be severely penalized. The objective is to insure that the Beardie remains a medium sized dog.
* The Beardie is a medium-sized dog, and the depth of chest should reach the elbows, with approximately 50 percent of the dog above the elbows and 50 percent below.

27. Which dog has short legs? Which dog is too square and cobby?.
Too square & cobby
Ribbing is nearly egg-shaped, more oval than round, with slight flattening at midpoint. The Beardie is a lean dog, the ribs should never be rounded, nor slab-sided. The length of the body comes from the angulation of shoulder and rear, as well as the ribs which slant backwards.
Which dog has short legs?
Which dog is too square and cobby?

28. Loin and Croup
* This illustrates a correct length of loin and the correct angle of croup for a Beardie.
Too flat
30 degrees
Too steep
The back slant of the ribs causes the length of loin to be relatively short, about four fingers.
The slant of the croup is about 30 degrees, giving the dog a smooth curve with the tail setting on smoothly. Flat or steep croups affect proper movement and are serious faults.
Which croup is too flat?
Which croup is too steep?

29. Hindquarters
The hind legs are powerful and muscular at the thighs with well bent stifles. The hocks are low. In normal stance, the bones below the hock are perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear; the rear feet fall behind a perpendicular line from the
point of the buttocks when viewed from the side. The legs are covered with shaggy hair all around.
90 degrees
This illustration shows the correct angles in an ideal Beardie’s hindquarters.

30. * Angulation of the hindquarters, ideally, is equal to that of the shoulders, requiring length of stifle. The Beardie should be well-muscled, which can be checked with a quick feel of the thigh. This illustration shows the correct angles of an ideal Beardie’s hindquarters
90 degrees
↑ This is a “sickle hock” and is incorrect.

31. Which rear is correct? . Left – correct, parallel hocks
Right – “cow” hocks
Which rear is correct? .

32. Feet
The feet are oval in shape with the soles well padded. The toes are arched and close together, and well covered with hair including between the pads.

33. Tail Which tail set and carriage is correct?
*Tail set and tail carriage are not the same. The tail set should be low, with the tail curving at the tip. Tail carriage reflects the dog’s attitude, and most Beardies, being happy dogs, wag their tails or raise them on the move. This may be above the horizontal (especially with males), but adults, when working – such as in the ring – should not have tails curled over the back. The tail clamped flat against the rump is also not typical of this happy breed.
Top left - This tail is set on too high AND carried incorrectly beyond a vertical line over the back.
Left Middle - This tail is set on too high, BUT the carriage is permissible.
Right Middle - This tail is set low, AND is properly carried.
Right – This is a proper tailset, carried low and with an upward curve, reflecting a happy attitude.
Bottom - This is a proper tailset, carried low and with an upward curve, reflecting a happy attitude.
The tail is set low and is long enough for the end of the bone to reach at least the point of the hocks. It is normally carried low with an upward swirl at the tip while the dog is standing. When the dog is excited or in motion, the curve is accentuated and the tail may be raised but is never carried beyond the vertical line. The tail is covered with abundant hair.

34. This dog is tracking. The tail
set is correct with an up swirl
because he is working, but is not carried beyond the vertical.
This dog is in a working trot with the head level. The tail set and tail carriage are correct.

35. This dog has a high tail set and is carrying his tail beyond the vertical line, also known as a “gay” tail. The dog is also kicking up.

36. Coat
The coat is double with the undercoat soft, furry and close. The outer coat is flat, harsh, strong and shaggy, free from wooliness and curl, although a slight wave is permissible. The coat falls naturally to either side but must never be artificially parted.
Proper coat texture is highly important, more so than coat length. The undercoat is visible, often lighter in color and softer in texture. The puppy coat may be fuller and softer than the adult coat, which usually starts to come in between 18 and 24 months. At certain stages of growth, the coat may seem to give a roll or bounce to the topline. Feel under the coat to evaluate structure.
This adult Beardie is presented in a full, natural coat, not trimmed or sculpted in any way.
The length and density of the hair are sufficient to provide a protective coat and to enhance the shape of the dog, but not so profuse as to obscure the natural lines of the body. The dog should be shown as naturally as is consistent with good grooming but the coat must not be trimmed in any way.

37. On the head, the bridge of the nose is sparsely covered with hair which is slightly longer on the sides to cover the lips. From the cheeks, the lower lips, and under the chin the coat increases in length towards the chest, forming the typical beard.
An excessively long, silky coat or one which has been trimmed in any way must be severely penalized.
Daylight should be visible under the dog. The coat should follow the natural outline of the body. Most coats are relatively straight.

38. Examples of Coats Very coarse brown coat with slight wave.
Slate coat with a slight wave.

39. * This is an 18-month-old “teenager.” Note the multi-toned, skimpy coat.
* Even pups have the trademark beard. The hair on the back may part naturally, but should not be knitting-needle perfect.
* Teenage coat may be skimpy in length, with the variety of shades of color, from very pale to very dark. Puppies can lose coat from front to back or from the part downward, or front and back to meet in the middle! Either way, adult coat often starts at the shoulders, and this is usually where texture is best felt. A dog may be three or older before the adult coat is fully developed.
* The 9-month-olds short, dark coat is soft enough to flop into his eyes.

40. Examples of Puppy Coat
Growth patterns with Beardies can be as variable as coat patterns. Note the high rear on the brown puppy. Her rear has grown up before her front. The front will catch up.

41. Teenage Coat
Skimpy coat underneath. Adult coat coming in on shoulders; puppy coat on the rear. Notice the adult coat is harsh and straight; the puppy coat fluffier and slightly wavy.
This teenager is changing coat from the top down. Note the lighter, coarser coat along the entire topline to mid-body and the darker, fluffier coat from there down.

42. What’s Under the Coat
This is what you should find underneath the coat!
These pictures of clipped Beardies provide a view of what’s under the coat. When examining a dog, put your hands on the dog to feel what’s under the coat!
Picture on left by Karen Norteman

43. Coat and Trimming
* This adult Beardie has been trimmed and sculpted and should be penalized for this serious fault. The dog is trimmed with straight lines of the beard, ears, and underbelly rather than the coat following the natural outline of the body. The chest and feet are also trimmed.

44. It is a generally accepted practice for feet to be “neatened” or subtly trimmed to prevent them from taking on a snowshoe or Clydesdale appearance.
Excessively trimmed mustache, beard, ears and underbelly; sculpted chest and shoulder area; and, trimmed feet and hocks.
An excessively long, silky coat is to be penalized. Here is an example of an excessively long, but not necessarily silky, coat.

45. gait
Speed alone does not a proper move make! The Beardie’s movement should be strong, yet effortless, with long, low, ground-covering strides and no wasted motion. The gait is easy, fluid and light, almost floating, giving the impression the dog could gait all day without tiring.
This Beardie shows the correct ground-covering stride that comes from proper construction both front and rear.
Movement is free, supple and powerful. Balance combines good reach in forequarters with strong drive in hindquarters. The back remains firm and level. The feet are lifted only enough to clear the ground, giving the impression that the dog glides along making minimum contact.

46. Left - Clean front movement with full extension merging to center line.
Right - Correct, parallel rear movement with minimal effort
Movement is lithe and flexible to enable the dog to make the sharp turns and sudden stops required of the sheepdog. When viewed from the front and rear, the front and rear legs travel in the same plane from the should and hip joint to pads at all speeds. Legs remain straight, but feet move inward as speed increases until the edges of the feet converge on a center line at a fast trot.

47. Blue bitch with front leg reaching under the nose and back foot barely leaving the ground.
Movement appears effortless; tail is raised but not beyond vertical.

48. Picture by Kelly Canham-Tonkin
Seven month old brown female puppy. Note the equal angles, coat roll, head and tail carriage, and beginning color change.

49. Slate bitch moving out with full front and rear extension.
Picture by Ray Salmon
Slate bitch moving out with full front and rear extension.
Note the slight roll of the coat and tail carriage.

50. Gait Problems
* This Beardie exhibits both inadequate reach and restricted rear extension.
* This Beardie’s incorrect kick-up in the rear comes from poor construction and wastes energy.

51. Note the front foot is on the ground and the rear foot is off the ground. The dog is not balanced. There is more angulation in the rear than the front; more drive than reach.

52. Other common gait problems:
The rear over-driving leading to the back foot crossing the front (from side view) due to over-angulation in the rear.
Hackney motion in front due to straight shoulders and short upper arms.
Or a combination of any of the above. Over-driving often occurs when the front is straight or weak.

53. Beardies single track as they increase speed
* Beardies single track as they increase speed. Note: many Beardies, being lean dogs, tend to move closely in the rear. This is not the same as being cow hocked and should not be faulted.
* This front is correct for a lean-bodied dog like a Bearded Collie.
* This Beardie rear, though close, is
correctly parallel and should not be
faulted.

54. Which front movement is correct? Which rear movement is correct?
Middle - This front is too wide to allow for ideal effortless Beardie movement: the front
legs should converge on a center line as speed increases.
Wide front movement may come from:
Withers spread too wide
Dog carrying too much weight
Ribs being too round
Straight shoulders not laid on properly
Bottom right - This Beardie is cow hocked. These turned-in hocks are incorrect and should
be faulted. . .
Which front movement is correct?
Which rear movement is correct?

55. COAT Color
The standard describes color in three sections: coat, pigmentation, and eyes.
Photo by Antonietta Pallavicini
Adults in all four colors: fawn, blue, brown, and black/slate.

56. All Bearded Collies are born either black, blue, brown or fawn, with or without white markings. With maturity, the coat color may lighten, so that a born black may become any shade of gray from black to slate to silver, a born brown from chocolate to sandy. Blues and fawns also show shades from dark to light. Where white occurs, it only appears on the foreface, as a blaze on the skull, on the tip of the tail, on the chest, legs and feet and around the neck. The white hair does not grow on the body behind the shoulder nor on the face to surround the eyes. Tan markings occasionally appear and are acceptable on the eyebrows, inside the ears, on the cheeks, under the root of the tail, and on the legs where the white joins the main color.

57. Pigmentation
PIGMENTATION: Pigmentation on the Bearded Collie follows coat color. In a born black, the eye rims, nose and lips are black, whereas in the born blue, the pigmentation is a blue-gray color. A born brown dog has brown pigmentation and born fawns a correspondingly light brown. The pigmentation is completely filled in and shows no sign of spots. * Pigmentation in blues is lighter and duller than blacks. Even blacks that fade to slate have darker pigmentation than the dilute blue. The same is true of fawns and browns; however, the differentiation may not be as distinct or obvious. Skin pigment on the muzzle is usually pink and may be spotted – perfectly acceptable.

58. Eye Color
EYES: Eye color will generally tone with the coat color. In a born blue or fawn, the distinctively lighter eyes are correct and must not be penalized. * The phrase “Eye color will generally tone with the coat color” can be difficult to interpret. Blues generally have blue- or blue-gray eyes, but they sometimes have a lighter shade of brown. The lighter the coat, the lighter the shade of the eyes, with amber (never yellow), as the lightest color. It is no more correct for a fawn to have dark brown eyes than for a coal black to have amber eyes. There should be no jarring difference between coat, eyes, and pigmentation.

59. Black
The majority of Beardies are born black. This is a born black dog with coat in transition. However, the pigment remains black. The eye in a black will vary from brown to dark brown depending on how dark the coat is.
Eyes on a dog may appear to lighten and darken as the coat transitions.

60. Black/Slate Male and Female
Female photo by: Jennifer Waldeck

61. Black Transition, 3 – 16 months

62. Stay Black
Photo by: Diane Wynen
This is an example of a “stay black” or a born black dog without fading or greying gene/factor. The coat stays very black, close to the born color. Coats of stay blacks tend to be soft and voluminous.

63. Blue
A blue dog (dilute gene to black) with gray color around the eyes, gray to dark gray nose, and eyes of a blue-gray color that tone to coat. The muzzle on this dog is primarily pink with a gray freckle.
Photo by: Pernilla Engstrand
This blue female has solid gray pigment and a light brown eye, which is acceptable.

64. Blue
Photos by: Antonietta Pallavicini

65. Blue Transition, 2 – 17 Months
From dark gray as a young puppy to very pale gray with skimpy coat at 14 and 17 months.

66. Photo by: Cynthia Mahigian Moorhead
Color Differentiation Left – Mature black Male Right – Mature Blue Female

67. Brown
Brown dog with brown eye rims, brown nose, brown lip pigment, and light brown eyes. Eyes tone to coat. Amber eyes are also acceptable.

68. Dogs Representing Brown Transition
All these dogs are brown and represent the coat transition phases of a brown – from dark brown as young puppy, to very light cream (with ear tips still brown) between months, to a return to a rich brown between years of age.

69. Fawn
Fawn dog with light brown/taupe pigment around eyes, light brown nose and lip pigment.
Eyes are amber and tone with the coat.

70. Fawn Transition These dogs represent the coat
transition of a fawn – from taupe/grayish brown as a puppy to light cream as an adolescent, to a champagne color. Most fawns do not return to their puppy color.

71. Color Differentiation
Photo by: Antonietta Pallavicini
Which is which? The fawn is on the left, the brown on the right.
However, at times a fawn may be darker than a born brown.

72. Tri-Markings
Two puppies with tri markings – eyebrows, front legs, hocks, under the tail. Tri-markings usually appear between weeks, and can be present on any color dog, but usually are only visible on blacks and browns.

73. Minimal Markings
These dogs have minimal markings, white occurring to a lesser degree. Flashy markings should not be given preference over a plainer dog.

74. Wall-Eye or China Eye
These puppies have one blue eye (wall-eye or china eye) and one brown eye. These are unacceptable.
A light or clear blue eye is referred to as china eye. A wall-eye is one light blue and one brown eye; both types of eye colorings are faults.

75. MARKING FAULTS
White body with black markings (body markings can be black, brown, blue or fawn)
Missing pigment on nose
Examples of marking faults:
Upper left – white body with black markings, body markings can be black, brown, blue or fawn
Lower left– white splash on body, white beyond the shoulder, white surrounds eye
Lower right – missing pigment and white is around right eye
Upper right – missing nose pigment
White splash on body, white beyond the shoulder, white surrounds eye
White surrounds right eye

76. EVALUATING FAULTS
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in proportion to its degree.

77. Serious Faults
The standard specifies no disqualifications but notes serious faults, including:
Snipey muzzle
Flat croup or steep
Excessively long, silky coat
Trimmed or sculptured coat
Height over or under the ideal
Most Beardie breeder judges agree that faults of structure should be considered most serious.
Faults which could interfere with performing the breed’s historical function as herding dogs (height over or under the ideal and excessively long, silky coat) would be considered next.
Cosmetic alterations (trimmed or sculptured coat) are not genetic. They change the breed’s “natural and unspoiled appearance,” which is the essence of the Beardie’s type.

78. When Evaluating a Dog
Focus on the whole dog. The Beardie is greater than the sum of his parts. Think about structure, movement, temperament and character reflected through expression and behavior.
Look for proportions and balance:
- Medium-sized
- Length to height - 5 to 4 with 2/3 of the length through the rib
- Height - approximately 50% of the height above the elbows, 50% below;
- Angles - angulation of the shoulders and angulation of the hindquarters ideally should be equal.
- Gait – reach in the forequarters and drive in the hindquarters should be equal, balanced, and effortless with a strong, level topline.
Look to see the dog can do the work for which Beardies were bred. Does the dog have breed type? Is it hardy and strong, yet agile?

79. Primary Breed Function - Herding
The primary breed function is to herd sheep, ducks and cows in rugged terrain.

80. Hardy
Beardies, as herders, needed to be hardy and have endurance to work long days and distances – requiring deep lung capacity and an efficient gait, known as the working trot. In a working trot, a Beardie usually has its head level
and uses less reach and drive than seen with the floating trot in conformation. The working trot has the same requirements – balance and correct proportions.

81. Agile
The Beardie’s size and length, with length from rib not loin, also support quick mid-air turns and a firm, level back to support long jumps.
The Beardie is lean and agile to scale tall buildings in a single bound! Not really…but they had to leap and make quick turns to head off stock. Proper shoulder formation, musculature and ligaments make these leaps
and turns possible.

82. Bright, Intelligent
See video clips at the end of the presentation.
Beardies need sufficient backskull to hold a brain. They need intelligence and problem-solving abilities to work stock. They need self-assurance,
confidence, and courage to face down difficult stock, yet must be biddable, to take direction, and work in partnership with their handler as a team.

83. Lithe with Bounce on Home Terrain
Bendale Blue Moon over Tousietykes (Dottie), Bendale Golden Star over Tousietykes (Ailsa) and Braemoray Strathtay at Tousietykes (Chloe)
Copyright: Sue Courtenay-Blake, Dogs at St. Andrews, Scotland, 2012

84. “He is hardy and active, with an aura of strength and agility characteristic of a real working dog. Bred for centuries as a companion and servant of man, the Bearded Collie is a devoted and intelligent member of the family. He is stable and self-confident, showing no signs of shyness and aggression. This is a natural and unspoiled breed.”

85. Thank You!
If you have further questions or comments, please contact the mentors providing today’s presentation. The list of BCCA Mentors can be found at: and further resources can be found on the BCCA’s website:

86. Thanks to the Following for Contributing Photos, Editing and Work on The Original and this Version
Cindy Alspaugh
Chantal Andrew
Linda Aronson
Alice Bixler
Maggie Brundage
Patti Bryce
Alan Burfitt
Kelly Canham-Tonkin
Kathy Comer
Ian Copus
Anne Daugherty
Delrio Photos
Tatiana De Tommaso
Sharon Domier
Clara Del Valle
Sandy Dubin
Pernilla Engstrand
Family Tree Photography
Darlene Foley
Lois Gaspar
Great Plains Bearded Collie Club
Imke Groenier
Lisa Held
Jean Hickton
Kelly Hodgson
Bridget Howell
Chet Jezierski
Beth Kortze
Kriszta Héger
Dan Landiss
Maureen Larroux
Mary Lott
Kathy McGriff
Marylou McLoud
Cynthia Mahigan Moorhead
Larry Mickleson
Ann Midgley
Casey Minner
Charles Namey
Janet Atkins
Terry Nyquist
Antonietta Pallavinci
Linda Perkins
Cathy Perry
Tish Pollock
Angela Rackstraw
Michele Ritter
Ray Salmon
Elsa Sell
Diann Shannon
Larry Stein
Barbara Stone
Maryann Szalka
Alessandra Velasco
Chris Walkowicz
Brenda Wantland
Patti Wadell
Sandy Weiss
Deb Winograd
Anne Witte
Diane Wynen