1. Seam Finishes
Today we are going to talk about seam finishes. We will start off with looking at seam on our own clothing.

2. Finishing seams on your own clothing.
We are just going to take a look at the seams on our own clothing before we look at our nine seams to see if any of our clothing has these seams.

3. Today Objectives What is a seam? What is a seam allowance?
What is a seam finish?
How do we decide which seam finish we should use?
What kinds of seams do our clothes have?
Learn about nine different seam finishes
Today we are going to discuss: What is a seam, What is a seam allowance, what is a seam finish, how do we decide which seam finish to use, what kinds of seams do our clothes have, and we will learn about nine different seam finishes.

4. What is a seam? Line of stitching. Hold two pieces of fabric together.
Basic part of garment construction.
Secured by backstitching.
Does anyone know what a seam is? How would you define a seam? … Well it is a line of stitching that holds two pieces of fabric together. It is the basic skill in garment construction. You secure a seam by backstitching at either end of the seam.

5. What is a Seam Allowance?
Flap of fabric allowed to sew a seam.
5/8” is most common for clothing patterns.
As you can see here a seam allowance is the extra fabric between the seam and the raw edge. So it is the flap of fabric that you allow to sew the seam. The most common seam width for clothing patterns is 5/8”.

6. What is a Seam Finish? Finish applied to raw edge of seam allowance.
Prevents fraying, curling and strengthens fabric.
Now that we know what a seam is, does anyone know what a seam finish is? It is the finish that is applied to the raw edge of the seam allowance. A seam finish prevents fraying and curling and it strengthens the fabric.

7. The type of finish you choose for your seams depends on:
Type of fabric
How neat you want your seams to look
Durability
Time
Type of sewing machine
How do you decide which seam finish to use? It depends on the type of fabric, how neat you want your seams to look, how durable your seams need to be, the amount of time you have, and the type of sewing machines you have.

8. Plain Seam Description One line of sewing at 5/8” seam allowance
Suitable for
Delicate items
Advantages
Very easy to make
Disadvantages
Not as strong as other stitches
Hand out Sample- I will have these samples while you are making your own samples to reference to.

9. Straight Stitch Seam Finish
Description
This is a plain seam with an extra line of stitching
Suitable for
The straight stitch can be used as a seam finish on firmly woven fabrics which ravel slightly.
Advantages
It is effective in preventing the seam allowances in knits from curling.
Disadvantages
Does not look as neat as other methods.
Hand out Sample

10. Pinked Edge Seam Finish
Description
The raw edges of the seam allowance are trimmed with
pinking shears.
Suitable For
Most fabrics except those very prone to raveling.
Advantages
Fast and easy. Doesn’t add bulk to the seam allowance.
Disadvantages
Doesn’t look as neat and clean as other methods. May not keep fabrics from fraying, especially if the finished item will be laundered. Requires special scissors to make.
Hand out Sample

11. Zig Zag Seam Finish Description
A zigzag stitch is sewn close to or over the
raw edge of the seam allowance.
Suitable For
Most fabrics
Advantages
Effective at keeping the raw edges of the seam allowance from fraying. Adds little bulk to the seam allowance.
Disadvantages
Doesn’t look as neat and clean as some other methods.
Hand out sample

12. Clean-Finish Seam Finish
Description
The edges of the seam allowance are turned under
and stitched.
Suitable For
Light to medium weight fabrics.
Advantages
Makes a neat, clean finish that won’t ravel.
Disadvantages
Adds bulk to the seam allowance, making it unsuitable for heavier fabrics.
Hand out sample

13. Narrow Seam Finish Description
The narrow seam finish is often used to control the curling seam allowances of knit fabrics. It also reduces the size of the seam allowance, making it more comfortable to wear.
Suitable for
Children clothing, or any fabric that needs extra strength.
Advantages
The narrow seam can be used anywhere on a garment, but it is especially useful where extra strength is needed.
Disadvantages
May add bulk to the fabric.
Hand out sample

14. Flat Felled Seam Finish
Description
The raw edge of the seam allowance is encased, then
topstitched on the outside.
Suitable for:
Most fabrics. Items that need durable seams.
Advantages Makes a neat, clean finish. Raw edges will not ravel because they are completely encased. Makes a very sturdy seam.
Disadvantages
Requires precise pressing and sewing. Somewhat time consuming. Makes a topstitched seam on the outside you may not want.
Hand out sample

15. French Seam Finish Description
The raw edge of the seam allowance is enclosed in a secondary seam.
Suitable For
Light weight fabrics and fabrics that are prone to raveling. Ideal for items that will have visible seams.
Advantages
-very neat, clean finish.
-Raw edges will not ravel because completely encased.
Disadvantages
- Adds bulk ,making it unsuitable for medium to heavy weight fabrics.
-A little complicated to make.
-Somewhat time consuming.
- Requires precise sewing.
Hand out sample

16. Serged Seam Finish Description
A line of overcast stitches is sewn over the raw edge of the seam allowance.
Suitable For
Most fabrics
Advantages
Produces a neat, clean finish that’s fray resistant. Adds little bulk to the seam allowance. Quick and easy to make because the stitching and trimming can be done in one step.
Disadvantages
You need a serger machine to make the stitch.
Hand out sample

17. Take another look at your clothing. Which Seam Finishes do you have?
So we just finished looking at nine different seam finishes. Does anyone have any of those stitches on their clothing?

18. Summary What is a seam, seam allowance, seam finish?
Deciding on Seam finish
Type of fabric
How neat you want your seams to look
Durability
Time
Type of sewing machine
So What did we talk about today? We started off with What is a seam, a seam allowance and a seam finish, then we moved on to how to decide which seam finish to use.

19. Can we name the nine seam finishes?
1.Plain Seam
2.Straight Stitch Seam Finish
3.Pinked Edge Seam Finish
4.Zig Zag Seam Finish
5.Clean-Finish Seam Finish
6.Narrow Seam Finish
7.Flat Felled Seam Finish
8.French Seam Finish
9.Serged Seam Finish

20. 2.Straight Stitch Seam Finish
Nine Types of Seam Finishes
1.Plain Seam
2.Straight Stitch Seam Finish
3.Pinked Edge Seam Finish
4.Zig Zag Seam Finish
5.Clean-Finish Seam Finish
6.Narrow Seam Finish
7.Flat Felled Seam Finish
8.French Seam Finish
9.Serged Seam Finish

22. Any Questions?